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Gunsmithing How was this texturing done?

BenY 2013

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 23, 2012
1,296
16
29
SW Arkansas
So I stole this picture, I love the looks of this gun! I was curious if anyone knew how the texturing on the grips was done??? It looks different than the standard way with the tongue depressor. Sorry for the small pic, I don't know how to enlarge it. I would very much appreciate the help!


am46br.jpg
 
So I stole this picture, I love the looks of this gun! I was curious if anyone knew how the texturing on the grips was done??? It looks different than the standard way with the tongue depressor. Sorry for the small pic, I don't know how to enlarge it. I would very much appreciate the help!


am46br.jpg

Marine-Tex and an ink roller
 
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Is that the Boyd's Tacticool stock? I want one of them badly but I can't even seem to find a RH stock available let alone the LH version that I really need. I'd be willing to convert to a LH version and fill the gaps and change inletting if I could find a RH one "in the raw" to start from.
 
I done that with marine tex and a Popsicle stick. Wait till it gets tacky and bounce the stick off the stock. I would practice on something first. But it's pretty easy once you get your it down.
 
I do it with bondo paste, masking tape, and just wear a latex glove and pat it with the hand. Easy.

I did this just after reading this post and the results turned out very nice! However it still doesn't look like the texture in the pic. I may have to try the ink roller mentioned above, or I may just stick with the bondo and glove method, it turned out pretty well!
 
Have you done this? I looked into the ink rollers and I can't seem to find any with texture? Any specific kind to use? Thanks

Yes I have. The ink rollers are smooth. You could do the same with a stick like Jrb572 says. You have to dedicate a partial day to it. The key is working it when it is starting to set up. If you roll it when it's "green" it will lay back down. If it does, just roll it again in a few min. If you want ridges like that it will take some time. Don't worry about creating peaks because you will need to sand the high spots off before you paint.

I would avoid bondo because the first time you bump it on something you will have a hickey. Marine-Tex can take it.

Also, be sure to coarse sand or dremel the surface before you apply so it will stick.
 
Yes I have. The ink rollers are smooth. You could do the same with a stick like Jrb572 says. You have to dedicate a partial day to it. The key is working it when it is starting to set up. If you roll it when it's "green" it will lay back down. If it does, just roll it again in a few min. If you want ridges like that it will take some time. Don't worry about creating peaks because you will need to sand the high spots off before you paint.

I would avoid bondo because the first time you bump it on something you will have a hickey. Marine-Tex can take it.

Also, be sure to coarse sand or dremel the surface before you apply so it will stick.


If the ink rollers are smooth then how does it apply any texture? Also Marine-Tex vs JBWeld? Or is Marine-Tex the best there is when it comes to bedding and adding texture? Thanks
 
I've done this with both Marine Tex and JB Weld, and I prefer the JB, especially if you're an amateur.

When the Marine Tex "kicks", it kicks fast and it can get away from you pretty easily. Just as the MT starts kicking you "tease up" the epoxy with the popsicle stick. If you time it right, you'll only need to spend 10-15 minutes teasing it up before it's pretty solid and will stay put.

JB kicks much slower, so you'll have to keep teasing it up every few minutes as it sets, but it won't get away from you.
 
If the ink rollers are smooth then how does it apply any texture? Also Marine-Tex vs JBWeld? Or is Marine-Tex the best there is when it comes to bedding and adding texture? Thanks

Sounds like you are not grasping Turbo's term "kicks". There is a point in the hardening process when the epoxy reaches a state that it goes from a paste to a semi solid. That is when it "kicks". If you don't have your texturing done by then it is too late. It will lift from the stock, stick to your applicator and all bad stuff.

I've never tried to do it with a popsicle stick but the smooth roller will pick up the epoxy and create ridges and you can cover a lot of surface quickly.

I don't guess it matters much if you use JB for texture. I don't know if JB shrinks when it hardens. Marine-Tex has just become the standard for bedding synthetics.
 
I think jb has a tendency to want to flow or self level. Not 100% on that. It was something I was told.
 
I think jb has a tendency to want to flow or self level. Not 100% on that. It was something I was told.

100% true.

The industry term for it is "sag". JBW sags. It runs, it flows...like thick water. MTG also does this though. The key difference between them is how fast they kick. MTG kicks fast and JBW kicks slow (comparatively).

Devcon 10110 is sag-free. It does not flow.

Sometimes you want a sagging epoxy, other times you don't. Texturizing is best done with a sagging epoxy I think.
 
I've used Steel Bed, Marine Tex and JB Weld. I like the ink roller idea, I'm going to try it. I've been using sponges dabbing the epoxy like drywall texture. I tried the Popsicle stick method but I went back to the sponge.