• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

  • Site updates coming next Wednesday at 8am CT!

    The site will be down for routine maintenance on Wednesday 6/5 starting at 8am CT. If you have any questions, please PM alexj-12!

Advanced Marksmanship Best zero for a 338 Laupa

choover23

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 4, 2013
110
1
44
Kentucky
My rig: Rem 700 APA Fat Bastard brake, timney trigger, NF 20MOA Base, NF ACATR 5-25 x 56 MOAR. I want to shoot a grand to 1 mi. Hornady 250gr BTHP currently. 1 in 10 twist. I typically zero at 200. But I'm open to suggestions.
 
All things being equal, a 100-yard zero removes more variables; therefore yields more accurate usable information.
 
I like a 300 yard zero. It allows for rapid recognition of bullet drop compensation need, independent of technique, using reticle or dial . Of course, the same could be said for most any other zero once the trajectory is known. When seeking an angle of departure allowing for maximum trajectory to the greatest distance the bullet can get to nose on, the convergent mount may not allow for enough scope depression to zero at much less than 300 yards.
 
Last edited:
I use a 100 yards, that scope has no issues reaching the distances you listed from a 100 yard zero so there is no reason not to use.

In the past people used zeroes at varying distances for different reasons, most of those reasons revolved around the fact the scopes didn't work across the entire range. So they had to modify where they set their zero. Either that or they wanted to try and shoot without actually adjusting anything or utilizing the reticle correctly to properly hold from a 100 yard zero. So they zeroed in a place that allowed them to "hold a little high or little low" staying as close to the center of the reticle as possible.

Today we have much better technology, we have canted based (something they didnt have in the past ) and scopes with a lot of elevation. The ATACR has about 140 Minutes of elevation, that is a ton. The 338LM from 100 yards only needs about 27 to 30 MOA adjustment to reach 1000 yards from 100. So you have a lot left over to reach 1 mile. Use the scope as it was intended, zero it at 100 yards, set the zero stop and because you are shooting at distance it should give you plenty of time and opportunity to dial in your elevation giving you a consistent hold at extended distances.

Using the right equipment means you don't have to compromise, and zeros beyond 100 yards are a compromise.
 
i use 300 yards for my 243 ai and 338lm. And I have good scopes. It all depends on the UKDs you shoot at (IMO) .
My perspective is a situation where i have 2-5 seconds to adjust for elevation and the distance is unknown.

I use a 100 yards, that scope has no issues reaching the distances you listed from a 100 yard zero so there is no reason not to use.

In the past people used zeroes at varying distances for different reasons, most of those reasons revolved around the fact the scopes didn't work across the entire range. So they had to modify where they set their zero. Either that or they wanted to try and shoot without actually adjusting anything or utilizing the reticle correctly to properly hold from a 100 yard zero. So they zeroed in a place that allowed them to "hold a little high or little low" staying as close to the center of the reticle as possible.

Today we have much better technology, we have canted based (something they didnt have in the past ) and scopes with a lot of elevation. The ATACR has about 140 Minutes of elevation, that is a ton. The 338LM from 100 yards only needs about 27 to 30 MOA adjustment to reach 1000 yards from 100. So you have a lot left over to reach 1 mile. Use the scope as it was intended, zero it at 100 yards, set the zero stop and because you are shooting at distance it should give you plenty of time and opportunity to dial in your elevation giving you a consistent hold at extended distances.

Using the right equipment means you don't have to compromise, and zeros beyond 100 yards are a compromise.
 
I estimate the height of the target, calculate the maximum ordinate of the round, and then use a reverse image zero. That way I don't have to aim at different places all the time to hit stuff.

...That was a joke. Zero at 100 yards.

Of course, my point is that it would help if the OP had stated for what purpose he planned to use his zero.
 
Last edited: