Using a Data Book

[Scratchthejeepguy]

I just got my first data book (Impact) and while I'm pretty confident I know how to enter in the data, one thing confuses me.

Before I got this book, when I would shoot for precision, (or at least that's what I call it) I've always printed out twelve, 1" black circles on a standard 8-1/2" by 11" sheet of paper then shot at that. Now this is as 100 yards since right now, that's all the further I can shoot at.
My groups are usually an inch or less, so what I do, is I shoot 5 or 6 shot groups at each circle. That way I can easily see where each shot hit on paper. If I were to shoot even 10 shot groups, I know I'd be shooting some in the same holes and may not know where they hit.

Now on the videos and instructions I've seen and read, on how to document your shots in your data book, the targets I've seen were all single POA targets, with boxes for 20 shots per page! I have a feeling if I shoot at one target 20 times at 100 yards, I'm not going to see all those hits as they'll go through some of the other holes.

I know at longer distances I should be fine, and maybe that's what these are for, but how do you guys do it at 100 yards. I'm fairly positive that most of you guys are way mo better shots than me!

 

[scatterbrains]

I have just started to seriously use my data book, this is what i do. use the blank pages to make your targets ie 4 dots labeled 1-4=20 rounds 5 shots each. I start left top and work CW. shoot one plot my shot call in the boxes on left, look through scope/spotter plot actual hit, proceed the same way through the next 4 shots.

every time i move to next dot i lable in the appropriate box for the first round at that target #. I do this for every new dot ie:#1, #2, #3,#4 dot. What i am really working on is my shot calls i find doing it this way it really doesent matter if you one hole as long as your impact equaled your call. just put in the notes box "shots1,3,5 same impact".

I try to note anything that will help me, right now i am trying to figure out why some of my shots go high right while the rest stay centered. Ive gotten fairly good at calling my shots and when i screw up the call real bad its usually due to me blinking.

Just practice, i have now gotten to the point of a 2hour range session may be only 30-40 rounds fired as i am trying to improve my shooting by taking my time and rebuilding my position for every shot. Calling and plotting my shots has helped alot. Still fighting the high right thing though.

 

[Scratchthejeepguy]

Thanks, I think I'm going to make my own targets with four 1" dots (5 shots per dot) spaced around the page. Maybe put one more in the center for a cold bore shot. Maybe I'll even make my own data pages to match those targets.

 

[Changed]

I often shoot 20 rounds at the same target long range. Short range I use blank sheets with a grid. I have found I use that type more often than anything else. I print out my own sheets on card stock. That way I can have exactly what I want. Shootingvoodoo has free page downloads towwork with.

Chip

 

[hondo1312]

At 100 yards, I shoot at 2" shoot-n-see's, then peel them off and put them in data book. I made my own with a 3-hole punch, 8.5x5.5 binder, and 8x5 notecards. At longer distances shooting at steel, I draw my best representation of my target, and mark my shoots on paper as close as I can get them. I've only used a data book supplied by a class that I took, and used that as a template for what information I wanted to gather. Eventually I'll purchase one of the modular data books and run the pre-printed pages.

 

[Scratchthejeepguy]

I decided to make my own data book pages with matching targets. I really like the CALL section of the Impact data book, so I modeled mine after theirs. I added a RIFLE box though since I have two rifles I'll be using this book with. I don't feel like buying another book. The large circles on the target are 3.6" the small ones are 1".

Great idea about putting the 2" targets in the data book too! I may have to consider that also.

Here's what I made:

 

[Scratchthejeepguy]

I just realized though that I should have made the 1" circles on the data book pages just outlines instead of solid circles though.... damn, I just printed off ten pages!

 

[kraigWY]

Make some more pages for your data book using actual targets.

For targets use the ISU (International) Small bore targets. There are 10 scoring rings plus a sighted ring. Take two targets, shoot one, use the other to plot your calls and hits.

 

[Sterling Shooter]

I have just started to seriously use my data book, this is what i do. use the blank pages to make your targets ie 4 dots labeled 1-4=20 rounds 5 shots each. I start left top and work CW. shoot one plot my shot call in the boxes on left, look through scope/spotter plot actual hit, proceed the same way through the next 4 shots.

every time i move to next dot i lable in the appropriate box for the first round at that target #. I do this for every new dot ie:#1, #2, #3,#4 dot. What i am really working on is my shot calls i find doing it this way it really doesent matter if you one hole as long as your impact equaled your call. just put in the notes box "shots1,3,5 same impact".

I try to note anything that will help me, right now i am trying to figure out why some of my shots go high right while the rest stay centered. Ive gotten fairly good at calling my shots and when i screw up the call real bad its usually due to me blinking.

Just practice, i have now gotten to the point of a 2hour range session may be only 30-40 rounds fired as i am trying to improve my shooting by taking my time and rebuilding my position for every shot. Calling and plotting my shots has helped alot. Still fighting the high right thing though.

How do you screw-up your call? The shot is either on call, or the shot is off call. When the shot is on call and right-in-there it means you executed the firing tasks properly and adjusted the sight properly for distance and weather conditions. When the shot is off call it likely means you need to adjust the sight. When the shot is on call but other than where desired it likely means poor trigger control and/or your contact with the gun and ground was not consistent. This last call causes some shooters to panic since it is difficult to identify the exact source/s of such error. Yet, since these errors are all found within the arena of consistency, the problem can be solved without having to identify the source by simply concentrating on what needs to be accomplished. Now, if you are plotting calls and strikes without any knowledge of why, that's to say, you did not already have a grasp of what I presented to you, your ''screwing up'' may be in not getting some instruction from a highly qualified coach in how to benefit from proper use of the data book, for both work in progress and shots for another day.

BTW, high and right is both vertical and horizontal error. If you are shooting from the right shoulder it may mean a combination of poor trigger control and 9 other things. If you are interested in these 9 things that can cause vertical grouping I will post them.

One more thing, call/strike evaluation, grouping assessment, and shooter observation collectively will get a shooter to the highest plateaus of good shooting in short order. Get this stuff down, and your progress will be evident with every shot.

 

[scatterbrains]

How do you screw-up your call?

I screw it up by not seeing my reticle when the shot breaks, but i am getting better. I would be interested in your thoughts of my hi and right issue.
I am shooting from right shoulder with an AR. thank you

 

[Sterling Shooter]

Vertical grouping shows good trigger control and poor elevation. Possible causes are:

1. Poor follow through
2. Changing sight picture
3. A very low position
4. Changing sight alignment
5. Failure to maintain proper eye/sight alignment
6. Changing distance from eye to sight
7. Varying rifle butt position in shoulder
8. Position of left elbow wrong
9. Not enough head pressure

Horizontal grouping shows good elevation and poor trigger control. Possible causes are:

1. High right shoulder
2. High vertical position
3. Jerking the trigger
4. Varying head pressure
5. Movement of the right elbow
6. No stability in position
7. Change in sight picture
8. Failure to maintain proper sight alignment

From info given in your last post, I suspect you have a problem adjusting NPA and getting control of the rifle. You may not have control and/or NPA if you are using a bipod as a rest rather than as an aid to bone support. If you are using a rear bag, scrap it for awhile. Build your position by bringing the rifle to the head instead of the head to the rifle; and, place the non firing hand out on the handguard with elbow as close to under the rifle as possible to maximize bone support. Relax into the bone support. Your shoulder height will determine the height of the position instead of the bipod. Let the right elbow drop to where it's relaxed. Build the position cognizant of the 5 factors of a steady position but without considering the target (don't look at it while building the position), just let the rifle point to where ever it points naturally. Adjust NPA for the desired target hold. Focus on sight. Pull trigger SMOOTHLY. Follow through.

Here's a tip, build the position without the bipod, supporting the position with bone alone. This will help you to realize when bone is actually supporting the position, as well as helping you to comprehend NPA. Adjust the bipod to complement the bone supported position rather than undermine it.

Make sure the shoulder is relaxed too. Sometimes it's easy to vary shoulder tension to raise or lower the muzzle. This will get vertical grouping for sure. The sight should be on target without any muscle tension to maintain the picture.

Also, note that keeping a consistent eyeball/eyepiece relationship will eliminate possible sighting issues.

One more thing, since this thread is about use of the data book, write down the causes of vertical and horizontal grouping someplace in your data book. You can refer to these causes when assessing recorded shots, as well as for improving work in progress when any shot is not right-in-there.