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Suppressors Any AAC-SDN-6 quality issues you guys experienced?

U

Ultraman550

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Dec 8, 2011
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I went to the range today to test out my 2 new cans. One was a TiRant .45 and the other a 7.62 SDN-6. The TiRant was great, shots were dead on. But the SDN-6 DID NOT do what I was hoping. Now I'm 99.9% positive I didnt hit the elevation turrets to knock it off of my zero so that's out of the way. There was probably a 20+ mph wind coming from 12 o'clock and my bullets were hitting embarrassingly low, I mean LOW. Heres the info:

100 yards
62 grn. green penetrators
16" 1:9 barrel
It was probably 90 degrees today
20+ mph wind at 12 o'clock
7.62 SDN-6
51t brakeout mount

Every time I have shot from this exact distance, same gun, same temp the hits are very close to center. I will say that I have not shot with amount of head wind. I first started out with 5 shots, then 5 more. A total of 20 shots on each target. I have a Holland level as well so I know the rifle wasn't canted. These shots are fucking low as hell. Hopefully it'll be calm tomorrow so I can test things out again but this isn't supposed to happen right? I'm going to blame user error first to see if I was doing something wrong before crying foul on AAC. Could the wind have played a huge part in this with the head wind pushing the bullet low? As you can see the windage was the better of the two going for me today.
 

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Just for giggles, wrap something that weighs about 1 1/2 times as much as the suppressor around the barrel and shoot a group. You may find that the weight of the suppressor on the end of a light barrel on a rickety weapon(like an AR) might cause it to shoot low. Just something you could try to rule out suppressor/mount problems.
 
Mine shifts POI. Lots of cans do. That being said, I am more concerned with the gas blowing past the brake/can junction and carbon blasting my objective.
 
I've got one mounted on a DPMS REPR. Shoots 168 grain FGMM pretty well but the can loosens up frequently. I have one of the faulty 51T ratchet mounts (and gave up trying to get any customer service from AAC - they basically ignored me completely) and am considering having it welded to the brake or set screws put in sometime real soon.

Anyway, weird thing is, shooting 175 grain SMK FGMM is like shooting a long-range shotgun. Back to 168 grain, is sub-MOA again. Tighten the can every shot. Same result. Weird.

And yeah, all my other (11) cans shift POI some. Some far more than others. I wouldn't take another AAC if you gave it to me and paid the NFA tax and don't recommend them.
 
I went back out today at 6:30 am, 1 mph wind, 70 degrees, ran the test again and same fucking results. It's hitting about 5 inches low. I take the can off and the bullets go dead center. I paid $1000 and waited 6 months for a fucking piece of shit. And to hear that AAC customer service is bad is probably the worst news I could be given. I'm wondering if the results might be different on a .308 but after reading your post normbal I'm not getting my hopes up. I also noticed that a lot of the carbon is getting blown back into receiver because the ammo is coated with it when I remove the magazine.

I'll try your test RonA but once again I'm pretty lost.

Don't we have someone from AAC on this board who can chime in?


Edit: I just placed the can (did not screw it on) on the end of the brake and see that the barrel does in fact bend a little. This is a carbine length, 16 inch barrel by Stag Arms so its nothing to write home about. Do you guys think the results would be different If were to install a bull barrel or something of much better quality that would not bend at all? Better harmonics? The suppressor locks up nice and tight and there is no play so I'm ruling that out.
 
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My 762-SD has about a 4" low POI shift on a 20" factory HB .308. Like you it's not what I hoped for but mine has been very repeatable. When I slide the can on I dial up 3.75MOA on my scope and shoot. Accuracy has remained unchanged. I'm going to a 30P-1 when I get the extra cash.
 
I'm about to purchase a Save 10-fcpk and was wondering then if I should buy a 30 MOA base instead of a 20 to account for the major loss in elevation? Windage on the can appears to be fine and the hits are all in the same vicinity but losing so much elevation is bullshit. This of course being said before I even know how it will shoot on a .308.
 
You're hanging a weight off the front of a barrel. Of course you're gonna get a POI shift. It's typical and happens with every can I own. Sometimes more, sometimes less depending on the barrel profile and can weight. It's not bullshit, it's physics. What's important is that the POI shift is CONSISTENT!! If it's always 5" low, then you learn to compensate. You either adjust your sights when you put the can on, or you sight in with the can on, and adjust when you take the can off.
 
My thunderbeast 30P-1 shoots 4" low at 100 yards, but it is 4" low every single time. I have a 26" Rem-varmint barrel and I realize that hanging a 1 pound weight is going to change the POI. Either don't ever shoot without the suppressor, or know where it is going to hit with and without the suppressor. It is a given when you use suppressors-- especially with long or small barrels.

BTW-- My groups are better with the thunderbeast than they were without. How are your suppressed groups?
 
Note the shift, adjust elevation as necessary depending on your 'typical' use (suppressed or unsuppressed), keep calm, and carry on..
 
ddd007, they were worse. Windage was ok but the bullet dropped 5 inches and groupings weren't near what they are without it. Today I shot without it and had 3 holes all in the center but probably .85 to 1 moa so not amazing, that's just me guessing. Waited 15 minutes even if it was only 3 shots then fired off 5 and all the shots were 5" low and spread out but no flyers.

Qld and Boiler, yeah I agree. Especially with a sub par barrel the weight is definitely ruining the harmonics. I'm anxious to see how it affects the .308 I'll be getting soon. It'll have a 24" barrel but I'm hoping the barrel being made for a much larger caliber will be more rigid and the weight won't affect it as badly.
 
Ultra, if it is truely that bad send Mike an email and he will respond and help you out. Here is his email:

[email protected]

Mike is a great guy, but you will need to give him 100% accurate information for him to troubleshoot your problem and be willing
to work with him to resolve your problem.

It is up to you now.
 
I have two AAC 762SD's, one AAC SDN6 and a Thunder Beast 30BA.

I have fired these cans from M4 barrels through to my 20" AIAX and I have found POI shift with everything except an AAC 762SD on an H-S HTR which weighed a TON. The POI is repeatable, I shoot the SDN6 on my 300 blk and my 5.56 but they are Daniel Defense & FN so they are pretty good but there is a drop. On my AR-10 barrels from 16" lightweight to 20" Heavies I had less drop when I went from a 16" LW to a 18" medium weight, it just comes down to weight on the end of the barrel.

I did have a latch wear off on one of the 762SD cans and it was fixed right the first time without hassle. I have only a couple thousand through the other 762SD and SDN-6 so I cannot really say how well those latches will hold up. But even my 30BA has some (minimal) POI shift.
 
Ultraman, I've been watching this thread waiting for someone to rip you a new one, but since everyone is being nice, I'll go ahead and do it. In the future you need to do a little research on something before you start openly bashing a company on the web. All you've done is show everyone how ignorant you are and that you obviously don't know shit about suppressors and probably don't know that much about shooting. Read up, there have been endless discussions on here about POI shift and suppressors. If you had, you would've found out that every suppressor out there, regardless of manufacturer, mounting system, or weight, is going to induce some degree of "point of impact" (POI) shift. Some are worse than others and most of the time the degree of shift is more dependant on the barrel you're using then the can. It's actually quite normal for your shots to be hitting low compared to your original zero, just rezero your sights with the can on and enjoy the silence.

I'm not trying to be an ass, but there are so many factors that go into this precision shooting thing, you have to be somewhat diligent in your quest to identify and correct anomalies, problems, or perceived problems, you can't just automatically jump to the conclusion that the manufacturer is always at fault and start trashing them on the web, even if they don't have the best reputation on here.
 
You're right Greg, I don't know shit about shooting and I don't know shit about suppressors. That's why I'm on here asking. When I see more posts than not about people not ever wanting to deal with AAC again because of CS or the 18t or the 51t mounting system not locking up tight and their POI completely way off and then I read about TBAC and AA and Mack Bros having perfect CS and shots only minimally off I get concerned. When I see others who have a 7.62 SDN6 with only minimal shift in their POI and I have 5 inches of difference in a pattern that looks like birdshot from only 100 yards away I have concern especially when I know I can get the same shots off not using a suppressor and have everything within an inch. Research only goes so far and then you still need to ask questions because your situation might not be the same as what you've read on the web. If I would have found someone with an 16inch Stag Arms 1:9 twist barrel who had a brand new suppressor with the exact problems then everything would have been perfect. Point is, I'm asking questions to people who might know off hand if I am doing something wrong or if I am expecting too much right off the bat. The most helpful reviews have been the ones that flat out told me to relax and adjust for the change in zero. Greg if you have the same suppressor and have experienced any problems or have had a perfect experience I'm asking you to share. Any bit of info is useful.
 
Ultraman550 said:
You're right Greg, I don't know shit about shooting and I don't know shit about suppressors. That's why I'm on here asking. When I see more posts than not about people not ever wanting to deal with AAC again because of CS or the 18t or the 51t mounting system not locking up tight and their POI completely way off and then I read about TBAC and AA and Mack Bros having perfect CS and shots only minimally off I get concerned. When I see others who have a 7.62 SDN6 with only minimal shift in their POI and I have 5 inches of difference in a pattern that looks like birdshot from only 100 yards away I have concern especially when I know I can get the same shots off not using a suppressor and have everything within an inch. Research only goes so far and then you still need to ask questions because your situation might not be the same as what you've read on the web. If I would have found someone with an 16inch Stag Arms 1:9 twist barrel who had a brand new suppressor with the exact problems then everything would have been perfect. Point is, I'm asking questions to people who might know off hand if I am doing something wrong or if I am expecting too much right off the bat. The most helpful reviews have been the ones that flat out told me to relax and adjust for the change in zero. Greg if you have the same suppressor and have experienced any problems or have had a perfect experience I'm asking you to share. Any bit of info is useful.
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As I have been down the road that you are on I will give you some of my past experiences...four years a go I started out buying suppressors and started out getting QD mounted suppressors which started me down the road of pure frustration. I had a Gemtech HVT QD and a AAC M2/2000 with a 51 T. They both had terrible issues of never being able to stay zeroed and rounds wandered all the time. I have since learned that by going direct thread on will reduce the frustration considerably and I have since had my Gemtech changed over to a direct thread on and the AAC stays on my carbine AR where accuaracy is not a must. The Gemtech works great now and I use it on my 223 Precision Bolt rifle. I have also gotten two Thunderbeasts Direct Thread on 30-P1's and they have been a joy from day one. Go direct thread on and reduce your headaches.

For the other portion of your issue. If you have a consistent POI change then correct for it and move on. You have a real problem when the rounds wander with no reasons why. At least yours looks to be consistent and can be corrected by your optic. Go up 5 MOA and fire for effect. And, don't take off the suppressor.
 
JSTARSZ said:
As I have been down the road that you are on I will give you some of my past experiences...four years a go I started out buying suppressors and started out getting QD mounted suppressors which started me down the road of pure frustration. I had a Gemtech HVT QD and a AAC M2/2000 with a 51 T. They both had terrible issues of never being able to stay zeroed and rounds wandered all the time. I have since learned that by going direct thread on will reduce the frustration considerably and I have since had my Gemtech changed over to a direct thread on and the AAC stays on my carbine AR where accuaracy is not a must. The Gemtech works great now and I use it on my 223 Precision Bolt rifle. I have also gotten two Thunderbeasts Direct Thread on 30-P1's and they have been a joy from day one. Go direct thread on and reduce your headaches.

For the other portion of your issue. If you have a consistent POI change then correct for it and move on. You have a real problem when the rounds wander with no reasons why. At least yours looks to be consistent and can be corrected by your optic. Go up 5 MOA and fire for effect. And, don't take off the suppressor.
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+1 I bought into all the hype on an SDN-6. I did get mine serviced from AAC no problem. I don't care what people say about AAC on here they were incredibly friendly, professional, and courteous with me. In fact it wasn't uncommon for me to have multiple e-mails back and forth on the same day. To the same extent I didn't just write to them:

"My supperssor stinks, fix it, kthnxbye"

I gave them all the specs on my rifle, scope, ammunition, atmospheric conditions, etc. When they gave me troubleshooting steps to take, I went and took them. I knew they were most likely not going to work but I didn't care I tried them because that is the process. Then I reported back they sent me a label and they serviced and cleaned my can. I was nothing but incredibly satisified with AAC. It is my own dang trigger happy fault for buying a QD can for a precision platform.

As for the POI shift. Its consisent. Thats what matters. If I hung a weight on your hand and asked you to throw a football. You would throw it lower than normal using the same "throw".
 
Ultraman550 said:
You're right Greg, I don't know shit about shooting and I don't know shit about suppressors. That's why I'm on here asking. When I see more posts than not about people not ever wanting to deal with AAC again because of CS or the 18t or the 51t mounting system not locking up tight and their POI completely way off and then I read about TBAC and AA and Mack Bros having perfect CS and shots only minimally off I get concerned. When I see others who have a 7.62 SDN6 with only minimal shift in their POI and I have 5 inches of difference in a pattern that looks like birdshot from only 100 yards away I have concern especially when I know I can get the same shots off not using a suppressor and have everything within an inch. Research only goes so far and then you still need to ask questions because your situation might not be the same as what you've read on the web. If I would have found someone with an 16inch Stag Arms 1:9 twist barrel who had a brand new suppressor with the exact problems then everything would have been perfect. Point is, I'm asking questions to people who might know off hand if I am doing something wrong or if I am expecting too much right off the bat. The most helpful reviews have been the ones that flat out told me to relax and adjust for the change in zero. Greg if you have the same suppressor and have experienced any problems or have had a perfect experience I'm asking you to share. Any bit of info is useful.
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That's fine, just ask questions and get to the bottom of it rather than instantly jumping to the conclusion that this (insert gear) made by (insert manufacturer) is a piece of shit, especially if you came to that conclusion because you read a few negative threads on the internet. What would happen if some new guy that just opened his new box from AAC read you OP? He would think that if his can causes any POI shift than his can must be a piece of shit too, when actually, POI change is completely normal.

The point of impact shift is one thing, its not really a problem at all. The accuracy issue, however, can be. But how do you know that you're not over gassing the system? Maybe you need a new buffer, action spring, or adjustable gas block, maybe the can is not locked up tight on the mount, maybe you're using different ammo than the last time it shot well, maybe, maybe, maybe..... That's my point, it could be a 100 different variables and most likely a combination of multiple variables, and who knows, maybe you could run through the list of maybes and still come to the conclusion that "this can is a piece of shit", but to jump straight to that conclusion without some investigation or due diligence is short sighted and that's the point I'm trying to make.

I do have a 762 SDN6, I use it on a 5.56 AR, a bolt action .243, and a bolt action .308. It works fine on all platforms, but it does cause POI change on all of them. I just zero my rifles with the can on and leave it, who wants to shoot without one, right? I have had some 51 tooth mounts that lock up tighter than others, but I've never had one come loose or wiggle on the end of the barrel. I've had to deal with AAC's customer service in the past and have always come away satisfied. Not to say that they don't have their problems, but you could say that about almost every manufacturer.
 
scimitar, the barrel came threaded from the factory so I am "guessing" everything is in alignment. I wondered that but I had the Brakeout on before I got the suppressor and shots went where they were aimed.

I placed the suppressor on the brake and noticed the barrel bending a bit but it was not enough for me to ever think my shots could be so off. Like I mentioned earlier on, I'm going to say that having a standard barrel that is not designed for accuracy and having a carbine length gas system are the major culprits.
 
The only quality issue I have gripe about is just the finish... but this was after the fact that I had to remove/polish off material on the "Brakeout" to get the can to fit snugly on without any more wobbling.
Other than that, it shoots fine for me.
 
normbal said:
I've got one mounted on a DPMS REPR. Shoots 168 grain FGMM pretty well but the can loosens up frequently. I have one of the faulty 51T ratchet mounts (and gave up trying to get any customer service from AAC - they basically ignored me completely) and am considering having it welded to the brake or set screws put in sometime real soon.

Anyway, weird thing is, shooting 175 grain SMK FGMM is like shooting a long-range shotgun. Back to 168 grain, is sub-MOA again. Tighten the can every shot. Same result. Weird.

And yeah, all my other (11) cans shift POI some. Some far more than others. I wouldn't take another AAC if you gave it to me and paid the NFA tax and don't recommend them.
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Do not weld the brake to your can. That is absurd. All you need to do is find a machine shop and someone willing to help you. Or send it to someone that can do it. You need to bevel the face of the brake to line up with the angled shoulder in the suppressor.
Once you do that they lock up nice and tight. I have a 51t 762SD that wiggled a lot on all my mounts, I did that method to my brake and it became one of the most accurate bolt gun suppressors I had.
 
Ultraman550 said:
scimitar, the barrel came threaded from the factory so I am "guessing" everything is in alignment. I wondered that but I had the Brakeout on before I got the suppressor and shots went where they were aimed.

I placed the suppressor on the brake and noticed the barrel bending a bit but it was not enough for me to ever think my shots could be so off. Like I mentioned earlier on, I'm going to say that having a standard barrel that is not designed for accuracy and having a carbine length gas system are the major culprits.
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You have POI shift. That's normal. It's probably consistent...and that's normal. You didn't KNOW that you would get POI shift...that's fairly normal.

Your groups opened up...that might not be normal. None of mine ever have, with an AAC SPRM-4, AAC N6 18 tooth, AAC 762SDN-6 or a AAC Mini4. However, I've been screwing them on quality barrels with quality muzzle threads. I would get yours checked by a smith who knows what he's doing. Read up on what that means.

You might want to edit your previous posts as you gain wisdom.

A vertical shift is actually the best you can hope for, in my opinion. It's easily remembered and dialed in...if you shoot without the can in the future. If you are like me, you will adjust your optic to reflect a suppressed POI. I don't shoot without a can unless I'm multi-gunning. Even then, I don't like it. :)
 
chainring, vertical shift I knew was going to happen, 2-3 inches max is what I've been reading. But 5+ inches I just couldn't believe and reading other peoples bad remarks when anything was over 4 inches made me worried. I asked my dealer today if that was the norm and his answer was "no" so I'm not totally crazy for thinking this. Like I said, with most of the responses here being to just dial up, vertical shift being the best I can hope for and re-zeroing with my suppressor on that's the info I was looking for. But I still think that 5+ inches is a bit much right?
 
I would never assume factory threads are concentric and everything is trued. Unless it is from one of a handful of very highend makers. I would send it out to a trusted smith that understands how to true a muzzle for a supressor before I did anything else.
 
^^^^Yeah, I'm going to switch out the barrel to something of much better quality and have a quality smith time the brake on it. I'm thinking a rifle length gas system as well.
 
Playing Devil's advocate here:
At least twice you've said you can see the barrel sag when you put the suppressor on.

That alone sounds like enough evidence to explain your higher than average drop in POI.
 
Ultraman550 said:
^^^^Yeah, I'm going to switch out the barrel to something of much better quality and have a quality smith time the brake on it. I'm thinking a rifle length gas system as well.
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You know the difference between having a smith true up the muzzle and timing the brake, correct?
 
Originally Posted by normbal

I've got one mounted on a DPMS REPR. Shoots 168 grain FGMM pretty well but the can loosens up frequently. I have one of the faulty 51T ratchet mounts (and gave up trying to get any customer service from AAC - they basically ignored me completely) and am considering having it welded to the brake or set screws put in sometime real soon.

Anyway, weird thing is, shooting 175 grain SMK FGMM is like shooting a long-range shotgun. Back to 168 grain, is sub-MOA again. Tighten the can every shot. Same result. Weird.

And yeah, all my other (11) cans shift POI some. Some far more than others. I wouldn't take another AAC if you gave it to me and paid the NFA tax and don't recommend them.


KYS said:
Do not weld the brake to your can. That is absurd. All you need to do is find a machine shop and someone willing to help you. Or send it to someone that can do it. You need to bevel the face of the brake to line up with the angled shoulder in the suppressor.
Once you do that they lock up nice and tight. I have a 51t 762SD that wiggled a lot on all my mounts, I did that method to my brake and it became one of the most accurate bolt gun suppressors I had.
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I guess I'm absurd. I have 2 of the 762 sd cans. I had a local smith turn down the 51t mounts to get them to lock up tight. That worked for one of them, but the other still had me shooting 2-3 moa. Talked with Mike Bush after getting nowhere with AAC. He had me send rifle and brake as well as the can to him and he welded the can to the brake, turning a high priced paper weight into a usable product. I see nothing absurd about doing whatever needs to be done to make something usable. While it now works well, I do have a TB direct thread, on the way.
 
C'mon OP, learn the basics here. POI shift is normal when hanging a can off the end of a barrel.
 
Icallem said:
Originally Posted by normbal

I've got one mounted on a DPMS REPR. Shoots 168 grain FGMM pretty well but the can loosens up frequently. I have one of the faulty 51T ratchet mounts (and gave up trying to get any customer service from AAC - they basically ignored me completely) and am considering having it welded to the brake or set screws put in sometime real soon.

Anyway, weird thing is, shooting 175 grain SMK FGMM is like shooting a long-range shotgun. Back to 168 grain, is sub-MOA again. Tighten the can every shot. Same result. Weird.

And yeah, all my other (11) cans shift POI some. Some far more than others. I wouldn't take another AAC if you gave it to me and paid the NFA tax and don't recommend them.





I guess I'm absurd. I have 2 of the 762 sd cans. I had a local smith turn down the 51t mounts to get them to lock up tight. That worked for one of them, but the other still had me shooting 2-3 moa. Talked with Mike Bush after getting nowhere with AAC. He had me send rifle and brake as well as the can to him and he welded the can to the brake, turning a high priced paper weight into a usable product. I see nothing absurd about doing whatever needs to be done to make something usable. While it now works well, I do have a TB direct thread, on the way.
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What will you do when you shoot the brake out and it breaks apart in your can? Ever seen an AAC muzzle device after a few thousand rounds of 308? Brakes thread on and off your gun for a reason and these suppressor mounts take a hell of a beating. They do have a life span the same way as a suppressor does. So yes, I do call what you did unneeded.

The 762SD-N6 was never meant as a precision rifle can. It was designed for heavy use 300 Blackout SBR's and 5.56 SBR's. Mostly full auto capable. Any AAC rep will tell you that. The older 51t 762SD is a great suppressor an I still run mine to this day on a 260 and it performs flawlessly, but I did the modification to the mount to help it tighten up.
 
"What will you do when you shoot the brake out and it breaks apart in your can?"


I guess at that point it will have the same value that it had prior to Mike making it usable. I never once thought this would last forever, but until it goes south, I'll be able to enjoy it rather than being upset every time I went to shoot with it. As I mentioned, I had the mounts worked on and while that did work for one of the cans, it did nothing to help the other one.

Hopefully it will last until the ATF gets paperwork completed for additional cans. Given the current time frame, that might be asking a lot!
 
Dear Lynch Mob,

You're all smoking crack if you think you wouldn't be wondering WTF is going on with the type of results I got. I knew there would some shift but over 5"? And groupings open up to boot? Yeah I know I'm a beginner but I've shot my rifle from 100 yards in the exact same conditions without the suppressor and I've gotten 5 shots within an inch to an inch and a half. Now the shots are all over the place. I can only blame user error and and a sub par barrel so much but I will definitely look into having a qualified smith install the brake and get several hundred rounds through the suppressor to see if things change.
 
Ultraman550 said:
Dear Lynch Mob,

You're all smoking crack if you think you wouldn't be wondering WTF is going on with the type of results I got. I knew there would some shift but over 5"? And groupings open up to boot? Yeah I know I'm a beginner but I've shot my rifle from 100 yards in the exact same conditions without the suppressor and I've gotten 5 shots within an inch to an inch and a half. Now the shots are all over the place. I can only blame user error and and a sub par barrel so much but I will definitely look into having a qualified smith install the brake and get several hundred rounds through the suppressor to see if things change.
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Do you understand that you are hanging a weight off the end of your barrel? That will have more to do with your vertical shift then anything.
As the barrel heats up, the vertical change can also get worse.

As your chamber heats up.... accuracy can change from shot to shot.

There are both benefits and handicaps when it comes to the use of a suppressor. Sometimes you have to weight them out to see if your current situation dictates the use of one. There are times I have to run mine, then there are times I don't like to.
 
I like mine

7.62 SDN on a GAP built 308 FN Police action. 51T brakeout mount. Sub 1/2 MOA accurate with or without can. Only .6 MOA POI shift due to can. No problems, love it. I shoot for fun and enjoyment. No competitions or special needs as I'm no operator.
 

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Until you get your muzzle threads checked, the threaded area checked for concentricity to the bore, and the shoulder behind the threads checked by a smith who KNOWS WHAT HE IS CHECKING, you shouldn't blame the can for opening up suppressed groups. None of that really matters to your rifles accuracy....until you mount a can. Considering that you are dealing with with a Stag arms carbine length barrel here, I suspect that the "effing piece of shit" component in your gear pile is NOT the can. Have the threads checked (that's not the same thing ad having a mount timed) and go from there.
 
By the way, a group of guys with experience, telling you the same things repeatedly in increasingly less patient tone in view of your continued protestations and assumptions does not comprise a lynch mob.

Yes, it is possible that you got a can or a mount with a flaw (or both.)

However, it is considerably more likely that the flaw or weakpoint is going to be found on the Stag product, rather than the AAC product. None of the tolerances that make a muzzle right for mounting a suppressor have a discernible impact on accuracy BEFORE you get a can. When you get a suppressor, though, then the quality of the muzzle threads, their concentricity to the bore and the squareness and quality of the shoulder BEHIND the threads become EXTREMELY important. Those specs will impact group size. The feedback you see online of POI shift with N6 cans is not, on the whole, going to represent your results with a Stag Carbine length barrel, either. Nobody said anything about getting another mount timed, your mount is probably fine - it's the threads/concentricity/shoulder that matters most at this point in your diagnosis. Once a smith verifies (or not) the quality of those features, then time a mount (making sure that it seats against the shoulder, not the muzzle) and check groups/poi shift. If you still have problems, then I would borrow another rifle that you know has a quality barrel and try it again. That would check your mount/can.

These are facts, known/experienced by those who have the benefit of having had suppressors a bit longer. They aren't open to interpretation or denial. Restating them differently to make sure you are understanding them is done to help you achieve what you want from your gear selection, not to "lynch" you. I've asked noob questions myself, and still do at times on certain topics, so I'll work with them a bit longer. Don't be surprised if some people get snappy if you pull the "yeah...but" response after they've taken the time to give you the benefit of their experience. :) You rolled in referring to a quality can as a "POS" in spite of some egregious ignorance about what you were doing and the diagnostic process. You did the right thing to ask, though, so now.....slow down and listen.....jus statin' not hatin. ;-) Take the time to let us know what you find, as you go through the process.

My suppressors have POI shift of anywhere from 2 to 4 inches, but are repeatable. We hope for less POI shift rather than more, but you'd have to do a test of a number of Stag barrels like yours to really know what to expect from that profile/length/maker. Your groups opening up is not right, though, so that needs to be addressed. You can fix that, for sure.
 
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Preface: I'm a dumbass.

I have the AAC 300 BLK MPW SBR with 9" barrel coming from AAC, along with a SND-6. I was under the mistaken impression, that I would have the option of using the QD mount, or I could take the flash hider off the barrel, bypass the QD mount on the can, and simply screw it onto the threads. In hindsight, how could that have worked since the hole going into the can would have to be big enough to fit over the flashhider? Now that that has been clarified, I do have some concern about using the 51T QD mount based on this and numerous other threads/posts. The issue with the 51T/QD seem to be more than just isolated instances.

I realize any manufacturer can have a mistake on any given rifle, but the likelihood goes down as quality manufacturing goes up. I went with the AAC rifle/AAC can combo because they developed the 300 BLK round and they have a good reputation. That having been said, am I significantly less likely to have to deal with this specific issue since I"m using an AAC rifle?
 
It's funny you should ask. The AAC QD suppressors seam to have the worst POI shift of any suppressor I have. The 762SDN-6 is by far the most severe and seams to cause inconsistant flyers which will drive you insane while trying to Zero your gun. With that being said I like AAC suppressors and would recommend the 762SDN-6 to anyone with an AR type gun. Its just not that good on a precision rig. I've gone to thread on suppressors for my tac drivers except for a Surefire FA762SS on a Larue OBR that has -0- POI.
 
What do the flyers typically open your groups up to? Do you normally get 3 shots inside 1" and then have 2 flyers putting you in the 2.5" range? Or are you looking at 4 shots inside 1" and 1 flyer putting you at 3"? I also have a TBAC 30P-1 somewhere in Form 3 land. I may just have to use that one.
 
bluto77 said:
What do the flyers typically open your groups up to? Do you normally get 3 shots inside 1" and then have 2 flyers putting you in the 2.5" range? Or are you looking at 4 shots inside 1" and 1 flyer putting you at 3"? I also have a TBAC 30P-1 somewhere in Form 3 land. I may just have to use that one.
Click to expand...

10-4.. That's about how it is. A buddy of mine was dialing in his Shilen rig for Swat Sniper course a couple weeks back and that is exactly what his did. Ended up not using it for the course and the rifle would group on a dime at 100 yards without the suppressor.
My 762SDN is on a Noveske 8" 300blk. It's fine but the group is inconstant while wearing the suppressor

AAC's Cyclone thread on suppressor is much better on a precision rig for sure. As it turns out after all of AAC's drama in the past their QD mounting system seams to be it's Achilles heal.
They are all ready working on the 91 tooth
 
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Here's mine

On a good day. I can shoot 4 out of 5 rounds in one hole with the can on my rifle. With my reloads: 175gr SMK's HPBT, 43.7 gr Varget, CCI Magnum Primers, mixed brass, and OAL @2.866.



The rifle is a .308 GAP REM action "Moon" Rock build.

Aside from the sanding and polishing the Brakeout to get the can to fit tighter. You can see the finish sucks.
I use this on my SBR'd Krinkov too which explains how the finish is getting ruined.
 
AAC has been very good to me. I had a problem with a cheap .22 can. They went out of their way to fix a problem that was not their fault. I took my can to them and it was on my doorstep I. 4 days. Sometimes they are hard to get on the phone. The will answer and try to help.

Mike
 
I've never had an issue with my 762 SND6 I use it mostly on my 300 Blackout, but I did have a break installed on my M40A3 clone that I had built for me by Vandyke rifles and was happy to see that there were no changes in accuracy (1/2 MOA and under) my POI however shifted 3 MOA to the right with no vertical change which I thought was odd but it repeated that same group every time I shot so I didn't care. I couldn't be happier with mine
 
Farmallsh said:
It's funny you should ask. The AAC QD suppressors seam to have the worst POI shift of any suppressor I have. The 762SDN-6 is by far the most severe and seams to cause inconsistant flyers which will drive you insane while trying to Zero your gun. With that being said I like AAC suppressors and would recommend the 762SDN-6 to anyone with an AR type gun. Its just not that good on a precision rig. I've gone to thread on suppressors for my tac drivers except for a Surefire FA762SS on a Larue OBR that has -0- POI.
Click to expand...

bluto77 said:
What do the flyers typically open your groups up to? Do you normally get 3 shots inside 1" and then have 2 flyers putting you in the 2.5" range? Or are you looking at 4 shots inside 1" and 1 flyer putting you at 3"? I also have a TBAC 30P-1 somewhere in Form 3 land. I may just have to use that one.
Click to expand...

When the can is not locked up tight you will get vertrical stringing. That stringing get larger the farther back you are. I have not taken to a "home remedy" for my SDN6 brakes yet. At this point it just sits in the safe. I have even considered selling it. At 600 Yards I was getting an 18" spread with a gun/ammo/shooter combo that can shoot 600 yards 1/2 MOA in most weather conditions. The harmonics and gas signatures change, when that change happens the bullet reacts differently. That difference when its given the oppurtunity to multiply over long distances creates what I call the 51T Stringing Effect. I get this stringing at 100 and beyond. To test my theory even further I went 10/10 on an 18" Plate @ 1k. Pretty calm wind, only like .5 Mil value. Screwed the can on. Adjusted POI for known zero change and boom first round hit. Second round hit. Then all the sudden it was like my shots were a bouncing ball. Over the target, short of the target, on target, over the target, and I stopped wasting ammo.
 
peaceatwar said:
When the can is not locked up tight you will get vertrical stringing. That stringing get larger the farther back you are. I have not taken to a "home remedy" for my SDN6 brakes yet. At this point it just sits in the safe. I have even considered selling it. At 600 Yards I was getting an 18" spread with a gun/ammo/shooter combo that can shoot 600 yards 1/2 MOA in most weather conditions. The harmonics and gas signatures change, when that change happens the bullet reacts differently. That difference when its given the oppurtunity to multiply over long distances creates what I call the 51T Stringing Effect. I get this stringing at 100 and beyond. To test my theory even further I went 10/10 on an 18" Plate @ 1k. Pretty calm wind, only like .5 Mil value. Screwed the can on. Adjusted POI for known zero change and boom first round hit. Second round hit. Then all the sudden it was like my shots were a bouncing ball. Over the target, short of the target, on target, over the target, and I stopped wasting ammo.
Click to expand...

You are saying you get an 18" grouping out of what gun @ 600 yards? I don't even know if you could make one shoot that bad.... something is very wrong with your setup if that is the case.
Either the host, ammo, can, or shooter are messing up the fundamentals or someone has put a curse on you.
 
7.62_Reaper said:
I've never had an issue with my 762 SND6 I use it mostly on my 300 Blackout, but I did have a break installed on my M40A3 clone that I had built for me by Vandyke rifles and was happy to see that there were no changes in accuracy (1/2 MOA and under) my POI however shifted 3 MOA to the right with no vertical change which I thought was odd but it repeated that same group every time I shot so I didn't care. I couldn't be happier with mine
Click to expand...

I thought Van Dyke rifles went down the crapper a long time ago?
How are they still around?
 
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