• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

new rifle... looking to take care of it...yet another cleaning question

SuburbanHick

SuburbanHick

SOF338
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 7, 2011
703
27
37
somewhere wearing camo (tx?)
just finished my first high end build...
trued 700 with a bartlein 1-11.25 twist sitting in a XLR with a nightforce NSX... (pics coming when i get home and can assemble it)

My question is whats a good recipe to use to clean it?!!!?!?!


heres what i have so far,
a possum hollow boreguide (specific to the 700 in 30 cal)
dewey rod

Im going to buy
aluminum 30 cal jag (i like the idea of the parker and hale jag but it seems it would be hard to deal with)
the patches im going to go with are just a 100% cotton flannel round patch
and the solvent im looking at is the BORE TECH - CU+2 COPPER REMOVER

before ive only used hoppes 9....
im trying to take care of my investment... any thoughts??
 
Sounds like you have a plan. Are you going to break in the barrel or just go and shoot it?

I'll tell you what solvents I use, but I'm sure if you ask 10 people, you're likely to get 8 different answers. I like to use Butches Bore Shine to get the powder fouling out first. Then I use Bore Tech Carbon remover to get the carbon out. Occasionally, I'll use Bore Tech copper remover to remove some of the copper fouling.
 
Worry about shooting it and not cleaning it and you will be better off. Not what you wanted to hear I'm sure, but it won't need cleaned but about every 500 rounds or so.
 
Using a Parker/Hale jag isn't difficult (or messy, or ...) at all. Just the contrary, and it gets out more "crap" quicker, as you'll have a larger cleaning area. Check out this video to understand how to use one properly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WRO17sk_dI

As for which solvent to use, you'll likely settle on several. One for powder fouling, one for copper removal, etc., just as ShtrRdy mentioned. Take care of the powder fouling first in order to get to the copper.
 
Last edited:
o i fully plan on going a few hundred rounds inbetween cleanings.... one of the things i expect from a $300.00+ barrel.... but i want to make sure when i do clean it that i dont use a solvent that chews the barrel all up
 
yaaa.. watching that guy use the parker and hale made it look easy..... and it makes alot more sense... and watching the bartlein video, its what they use.... now the question comes to what size patch to use on a 308 bore...
 
You really don't break in a barrel, you break in the throat.
The new chamber has a very sharp throat and shaves jacket off as the bullet passes, layering it in the bore.

I would recommend shooting no more than five rounds, clean thoroughly, follow this for 15 or 20 rounds, then you should be good to go.
 
idk how i feel about going to town on my bore with a brush like that dude did... i paid for bore solvent... ill let that do the work and patch it out....

for the break in ill just read what accurate ordnance says... idk what they have forgotten about breaking in a rifle
 
Too bad the search engine is broke, Google is broke, and there is a shortage of threads like these.
 
wow....did you wipe after that one???
im so glad some one with 90 posts can drop that big of a load on some one looking for advice....but then again this is the age of the internet tough guy and it doesnt take much balls to drop a deuce on on some ones thread when looking for input...thanks for being "that guy"...from now on, ill be sure to NEVER ask advice on any topic thats ever been covered before... EADFH << if you cant figure that one out feel free to PM me about it...
 
Last edited:
When I clean, I use a square 12gauge patch, poked and wrapped around my jag. If its flannel, one should work. I clean when ever the bore gets wet or when it starts throwing inconstant shots. Which ever comes first.
 
just to clarify.

If it’s a case of a wet bore I just run a clean patch down the bore followed by couple CLP’d patches then a few more clean patches to remove excess CLP. I clean for copper when it starts throwing shots. For my 243 that’s around 350-400 and I have yet to see it in any of my 308’s. This past winter I decided to do it anyway. My factory Remington tactical has the highest round count at 1800+ and it took several before I didn’t see blue coming out, my custom has about 1500 and after the third patch it was done. I did all this because the cleaner I had bought thinking it was for copper isn’t a copper cleaner lol... for a while my 243 was giving me fits until I realized this. Now it shoots the way it should and the 308’s... well, they shot the same way they always have. ;)
 
Last edited:
There are so many different ideas as to what makes the best cleaning method and cleaning product. Each works according to those who recommend it.

I tend to keep it simple. A quick brushing with a bronze brush, a dry patch to push out the loose crap, and then a couple patches of Hoppe's work for the "Quick Clean".

If I have some copper to clean out I'll something like Gunslick's foaming cleaner. If that doesn't get the copper then a patch soaked in Sweets, a 10-15 minute soak, and that's all I've ever had to do. Over 10K rounds through my 5-R with no fouling issues at all. (BTW, the last groups I shot with it before sending it to Benchmark for re-barreling were sub .5 MOA with 175 gr Nosler's)

One thing to consider about copper. Rough barrels and throats foul. If he barrel is properly lapped and the chamber and throat cut with a nice sharp reamer, fouling is usually very minimal. On new rifles, rather than just "shooting out" the roughness that does remain, I've used J-B Bore Bright which is a jeweler's rouge in paste form that merely polishes. Clean the bore then using a P-H jag, wrap a patch with the J-B compound on it and work the throat area carefully using a cleaning rod that easily pivots so the patch can follow the rifling. This will not only help smooth out the ragged edges that may be left from the machining and finishing but also remove any copper that was deposited there.

Another consideration to reduce copper fouling in a .308 is to try some of the new CFE223 powder. I found that it works great in .308's using 168-178 bullets and yes, copper is almost non-existent. Barrel is a little sooty after 50 rounds but you don't have to clean every 10 rounds just to keep accuracy up like some are always having to do.
 
Last edited:
Definitely recommend the five shot and clean for the first 20-25 rounds. After that all my barrels are clean after 5-7 patches, following one wet patch with BoreTech Eliminator. Finish up with dry patch with few drops of Kranoil, then 20 gauge mop to clean the chamber. Light bolt lube and done! Only clean every 200-300 rounds, but shoot weekly and very dry here in Arizona. In humid climate would probably clean more frequently. Good Shooting. Hope your new baby treats you right.
 
I usually clean it until I have little or nothing on the patches, run 2 dry patches to get any out, and then put one oil. I also clean the bolt face then oil it but very little oil. I wipe the lugs with a cloth and no solvent, I also put a very light coat of oil in the chamber since its chrome moly and I just don't want it to rust. also I put tiny bit of oil on outside
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

HoosierHunter128
Breaking-in and ongoing cleaning of new Christensen Arms Mesa
Replies
2
Views
4K
hereinaz
hereinaz
memilanuk
? on cleaning & ammo testing
Replies
22
Views
1K
tansinator
T
R
Precision AR Care
Replies
4
Views
724
TheGerman
TheGerman
JS624
Cleaning supplies for new rifle
Replies
3
Views
530
JePhyllis
J
H
Cleaning 101 starting with new rifle
Replies
16
Views
5K
pineoak
pineoak
Top Bottom
Back