im a newbie to reloading and bought noslers 7th edition to get started, i like their bullet options and performance from their trophy grade ammo. my question is, since supplies are scarce can you mix and match certain items for ex. the recipie calls for fed 210 primers, can i use other large pistol primers and what if i cant find the certain powder the recipe calls for, do i have to use another brand that is similar and im guessing when you switch powders you have to go with that manufactures specs right. the reason i choose this loading manual was because my rifle likes the 165 accubonds so far, and the local shop carries mostly nosler bullets. any comments would be appreciated
- Thread starter colscar
- Start date
Short answer, yes you can use other products.
Right answer, you need to get your data from either the bullet manufacturer, or the powder manufacturer. What I mean is, you need to be careful when using Hornady bullets not to use date from Nosler's book. Reason is that the shape of the two bullets may be different, and you might have a shorter tip-ogive relationship on the Hornady bullets, causing a pressure difference which could be serious. You can usually get the info off of a manufacturer website to check your data. Always start low and work up, even if you are using all the parts listed in the book you are referencing, as every gun is unique, and what is safe in mine may be dangerous in yours---chamber sizes, and throat depths impact this dramatically, even in factory made rifles.
That said, if you want to switch primers, then they recommend that you reduce the powder by 10% and work up again---I would just do few at different charges, one each, to get back up, watching for pressure signs, then redo the final groups just above and below what you had before, provided the pressure tests show you are fine.
Right answer, you need to get your data from either the bullet manufacturer, or the powder manufacturer. What I mean is, you need to be careful when using Hornady bullets not to use date from Nosler's book. Reason is that the shape of the two bullets may be different, and you might have a shorter tip-ogive relationship on the Hornady bullets, causing a pressure difference which could be serious. You can usually get the info off of a manufacturer website to check your data. Always start low and work up, even if you are using all the parts listed in the book you are referencing, as every gun is unique, and what is safe in mine may be dangerous in yours---chamber sizes, and throat depths impact this dramatically, even in factory made rifles.
That said, if you want to switch primers, then they recommend that you reduce the powder by 10% and work up again---I would just do few at different charges, one each, to get back up, watching for pressure signs, then redo the final groups just above and below what you had before, provided the pressure tests show you are fine.
To your original question, like SU states, you want to be careful, but bullets of similar construction can be substituted, but I would not swap if I were shooting at max charge weights, or even over book values. I would drop the charge weight down and then work back up.
I wouldn't take a 208 gr AMAX loaded to max and then drop in a 200gr hunting round nose bullet, as an example.
Mixed headstamps can be all over the map, so when you get them, segregate them by headstamp and then prep them as you would any other brass case. Hopefully, you'll get batches of 50 for each stamp, which you can then load up as one box. I'll do 25 + 25 and call it a day if that's how the numbers shake out, or 30 + 20.
Chris
Colscar,
NO! NO! And again NO! I think the guys who answered you here have overlooked your comment about exchanging some other Large Pistol primers for the Fed 210 that the original data called for. No, you cannot substitute Large Pistol primers for use in cases/loads calling for Large Rifle primers, like the Federal 210. Important to understand, since they are approximately the same size and can be physically interchanged without noticing any difference. Pistol primers use both a substantially different priming mix, deliver different levels of brisance than Rifle primers, and are generally punched from thinner material than Rifle primers. Same things hold true of small primers as well. Interchanging these two (Rifle for pistol, either Large or Small sizes) will generally result in badly pierced or blown primers, probable damage to the firing pin/striker and/or bolt face. Going the other way (using Rifle primers in Pistol loads) will often result in misfires, due to the heavier cups of the Rifle primers. There's also a slight dimensional difference in the height of small rifle/pistol primers that can also cause seating difficulties. This may or may not be noticeable, but it's not something to confuse.
You CAN substitute other Large Rifle primers for the F210, so long as you back the load off a bit and work it back up again. The Rem 9 1/2, CCI M34 or 200, etc., yes, but not the Large Pistol primers.
NO! NO! And again NO! I think the guys who answered you here have overlooked your comment about exchanging some other Large Pistol primers for the Fed 210 that the original data called for. No, you cannot substitute Large Pistol primers for use in cases/loads calling for Large Rifle primers, like the Federal 210. Important to understand, since they are approximately the same size and can be physically interchanged without noticing any difference. Pistol primers use both a substantially different priming mix, deliver different levels of brisance than Rifle primers, and are generally punched from thinner material than Rifle primers. Same things hold true of small primers as well. Interchanging these two (Rifle for pistol, either Large or Small sizes) will generally result in badly pierced or blown primers, probable damage to the firing pin/striker and/or bolt face. Going the other way (using Rifle primers in Pistol loads) will often result in misfires, due to the heavier cups of the Rifle primers. There's also a slight dimensional difference in the height of small rifle/pistol primers that can also cause seating difficulties. This may or may not be noticeable, but it's not something to confuse.
You CAN substitute other Large Rifle primers for the F210, so long as you back the load off a bit and work it back up again. The Rem 9 1/2, CCI M34 or 200, etc., yes, but not the Large Pistol primers.
Kevin, thanks for catching that. I didn't get the F210 (rifle) versus other Pistol primers, as he didn't use the word rifle versus pistol. Good eye there!
And NO, I would not have answered like I did if I had caught that myself. As you said Kevin, never switch between rifle and pistol, but within the same type, switch away----just back off on charge and work up.
Sniper Uncle,
Didn't figure you would have, and I kinda assumed that the Large Rifle/Large Pistol primer line had been overlooked. Just wanted to keep the OP on the safe side here, no offense intended, hope none was taken.
Didn't figure you would have, and I kinda assumed that the Large Rifle/Large Pistol primer line had been overlooked. Just wanted to keep the OP on the safe side here, no offense intended, hope none was taken.
No, Kevin, no offense taken. I am grateful you caught it and corrected it. I missed it because he didn't specifically say rifle v. pistol primer. Just listing the number of the rifle primer, I didn't connect the rifle part, as opposed to the pistol primer. I am very glad you caught it and said something, because that is very important, for the reasons you stated above.
Thanks a lot,
Got another question ......the book I have, noslers 7th, use only nosler brass.....does this mean that the load Data is only accurate in that brass or can I use a win. Fed, lake city or other brass......I read that NATO brass is thicker and might create more pressures... should I just load light and work my way up like suggested since I don't have nosler brass or will it not matter ......
By light load, you don't have to start at scratch again, but lower your load by say 7-10% , and do a few intermediates, just for the sake of pressure checks. Then, play with your desired load range a little to be sure it is still good.
The reason Nato brass might make higher pressures is simply because the thicker brass then allows less interior volume for powder. The lower volume then means less room for the burn to take place, and the less room available, the faster the burn, hence the higher pressures.
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