Does this look normal? .308 newb reloader

[Evol ways]

Hello every one,

I am new to reloading and have began to prep some brass. There's a issue it appears I'm having when I check my prepped brass in my rifle. It appears when the bolt slams forward the case is being bumped into something inside the chamber. Case mouth deforms and also some straight lines being put into the cases. See pic. I used a empty case to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary or if there's was a issue with the bolt.

I am reloading using a RCBS RC single stage, RCBS F/L dies, hornady match brass (once fired) and using the supplied lube that came with my kit. When I set up the dies, i set it up per manufacture instructions. Ram up, bring down die until it touches the shell holder, bring down ram and I gave the die 1/8" turn. I do not have a comparator or case gage since I can't find any. Is there something I am not doing right? Gun is a LMT MWS.

Sorry for being such a newb at this but need to start somewhere. Lol. I read the Sierra and Speer reloading manual and have not found any information that would help with this issue.

 

[918v]

Think about what's happening: you are chambering an empty case. It's gonna get ef'd up slamming into the feedramps on the way into the chamber. The neck is soft. It's gonna bend.

 

[Bhobbs]

Like 918v said, it's the feed ramps scratching the brass and denting the mouth.

 

[elfster1234]

My lmt does the same thing with empty brass and i think it actually happens when it is ejected even when i hand feed the brass into the chamber and slam home the bolt... Some serious forces going on with a big semi auto AR.... First and foremost make sure your brass is trimmed to 2.005 target brass length... no more than 2.009 and try not to trim brass under 2.000 .....You just need to make sure you bump your shoulder datum back about .004 +/- .001 from your once fired brass. Fired brass out of my LMT is damn near always 1.631ish using MY hornady headspace guage.... Maybe 1.632 at the most.... Then ill adjust my full length sizing die down until i reach a bumped shoulder to 1.627 +/- .001...... The key is to make sure you keep a consistent ram pressure when you pull your reloading press handle down. You really need a hornady headspace guage on your calipers before you size any brass so you can measure your once fired brass and then measure the brass once you have resized it.... Easy as that.

Hello every one,

I am new to reloading and have began to prep some brass. There's a issue it appears I'm having when I check my prepped brass in my rifle. It appears when the bolt slams forward the case is being bumped into something inside the chamber. Case mouth deforms and also some straight lines being put into the cases. See pic. I used a empty case to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary or if there's was a issue with the bolt.

I am reloading using a RCBS RC single stage, RCBS F/L dies, hornady match brass (once fired) and using the supplied lube that came with my kit. When I set up the dies, i set it up per manufacture instructions. Ram up, bring down die until it touches the shell holder, bring down ram and I gave the die 1/8" turn. I do not have a comparator or case gage since I can't find any. Is there something I am not doing right? Gun is a LMT MWS.

Sorry for being such a newb at this but need to start somewhere. Lol. I read the Sierra and Speer reloading manual and have not found any information that would help with this issue.

 

[Evol ways]

That would make sense if I chambered it using my mag. Thise case was just dropped into chamber then pulled charging handle. Maybe I'm just missing something?

 

[elfster1234]

Also.... Here is a good question.... What is the shoulder datum measurement of your once fired brass out of YOUR lmt? If you cant answer this question then you better stop sizing brass until you can OR you will be wasting good brass if you bump it way too much....

Do you have a headspace gauge?

My lmt does the same thing with empty brass and i think it actually happens when it is ejected even when i hand feed the brass into the chamber and slam home the bolt... Some serious forces going on with a big semi auto AR.... First and foremost make sure your brass is trimmed to 2.005 target brass length... no more than 2.009 and try not to trim brass under 2.000 .....You just need to make sure you bump your shoulder datum back about .004 +/- .001 from your once fired brass. Fired brass out of my LMT is damn near always 1.631ish using MY hornady headspace guage.... Maybe 1.632 at the most.... Then ill adjust my full length sizing die down until i reach a bumped shoulder to 1.627 +/- .001...... The key is to make sure you keep a consistent ram pressure when you pull your reloading press handle down. You really need a hornady headspace guage on your calipers before you size any brass so you can measure your once fired brass and then measure the brass once you have resized it.... Easy as that.

 

[elfster1234]

Read both of my posts above

That would make sense if I chambered it using my mag. Thise case was just dropped into chamber then pulled charging handle. Maybe I'm just missing something?

 

[Evol ways]

Also.... Here is a good question.... What is the shoulder datum measurement of your once fired brass out of YOUR lmt? If you cant answer this question then you better stop sizing brass until you can OR you will be wasting good brass if you bump it way too much....

Do you have a headspace gauge?

Honestly couldn't tell you. I am trying to purchase the sinclair model since I really like their products but might need to settle for the hornady. Not there's anything wrong with the hornady.

I've only done very few brass about 60ish and have over 250 peices of brass total. I was just trying to get a feel and thought I didn't need any,ore tools until now. No loaded rounds just prepped.

 

[FCS]

Ding on case mouth is from ejector plunger pushing case against barrel extension / receiver as you eject case.
Scratches on neck are from lug raceways on barrel extension, case neck being pushed into raceway by ejector on extraction.

Remove the ejector from bolt while checking cases and both the scratches on neck and flat spot on case mouth will disappear.

I'd size brass so you have -0.002 to -0.0015 clearance on between shoulder on case and shoulder in chamber. If you don't have an RCBS Precision mic, Hornady gauge or similar you can use the chamber in rifle to set die.

I don't let bolt slam home to check if case is sized enough. I lock BCG to rear, drop case in chamber, ease bolt forward until bolt contacts case and use my thumb in dust cover cutout on BCG to snap extractor over rim and attempt to get BCG fully home. If your BCG refuses to go fully home, case needs to be sized more.
If BCG does go fully home, then I back out sizer die until BCG will not fully close. Once I've determined where I have an interference fit, I then give sizer die a slight adjustment towards shell holder, verify BCG goes fully home and call it good for that rifle. Using this method you have set die up for minimal working of brass while maximizing reliable chambering of round. Hasn't let me down yet. Brass sized using this method is only good for your chamber as it may or may not fit another chamber. I wouldn't suggest the above method if you will be using the ammo in multiple rifles.

If you plan to use ammo in multiple rifles, then you'd want to find the chamber with tightest body and headspace dimensions and set sizer die to that chamber.

HTH

 

[elfster1234]

I would stop this very second until you can get a headspace gauge. Sinclair is better but i use the hornady and it has worked for me.... If you bump that shoulder back too much you can get excessive headspace = wasted brass or if you fire it even worse...... Dangerous! Pm me with your fired brass headspace measurement once you get the gauge. This will also help increase the life of the brass so you are not over working the brass too much.

Honestly couldn't tell you. I am trying to purchase the sinclair model since I really like their products but might need to settle for the hornady. Not there's anything wrong with the hornady.

I've only done very few brass about 60ish and have over 250 peices of brass total. I was just trying to get a feel and thought I didn't need any,ore tools until now. No loaded rounds just prepped.

 

[elfster1234]

I personally would never mixed 7.62 brass with another rifle... maybe 5.56 but never 7.62 as I think it increases accuracy out of my LMT..... LMT's are known to have sloppy chambers... I mark all of my prepped 7.62 brass for the rifle it was shot out of and that brass sticks with that rifle until it is trashed..... also, when purchasing huge 500pc qty of lake city brass I do not prep the entire 500pcs... I like to do batches of 50pcs for 7.62 and 100pcs for 5.56... this way it is easier to keep track of, and after 5 to 6 fires it gets trashed and then ill pull another 50pcs out of the once fired 7.62 brass purchased from before....... also i like to do batches as described above for some strange reason I need to make an adjustment over time. Doing the above will increase your accuracy as shown in my shootout threads with my LMT.

I would never mix 7.62 brass with another rifle.... never. Especially with the amount the LMT beats the shit out of the brass big time with the dual ejectors.... it is crazy hard on the brass.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...t-semi-auto-precision-shooters-reloaders.html

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...00yard-semi-auto-6group-30round-shootout.html

Ding on case mouth is from ejector plunger pushing case against barrel extension / receiver as you eject case.
Scratches on neck are from lug raceways on barrel extension, case neck being pushed into raceway by ejector on extraction.

Remove the ejector from bolt while checking cases and both the scratches on neck and flat spot on case mouth will disappear.

I'd size brass so you have -0.002 to -0.0015 clearance on between shoulder on case and shoulder in chamber. If you don't have an RCBS Precision mic, Hornady gauge or similar you can use the chamber in rifle to set die.

I don't let bolt slam home to check if case is sized enough. I lock BCG to rear, drop case in chamber, ease bolt forward until bolt contacts case and use my thumb in dust cover cutout on BCG to snap extractor over rim and attempt to get BCG fully home. If your BCG refuses to go fully home, case needs to be sized more.
If BCG does go fully home, then I back out sizer die until BCG will not fully close. Once I've determined where I have an interference fit, I then give sizer die a slight adjustment towards shell holder, verify BCG goes fully home and call it good for that rifle. Using this method you have set die up for minimal working of brass while maximizing reliable chambering of round. Hasn't let me down yet. Brass sized using this method is only good for your chamber as it may or may not fit another chamber. I wouldn't suggest the above method if you will be using the ammo in multiple rifles.

If you plan to use ammo in multiple rifles, then you'd want to find the chamber with tightest body and headspace dimensions and set sizer die to that chamber.

HTH

 

[elfster1234]

also, put Velcro on your brass deflector!!!! will help from getting dings in the side of the brass body! one of the first and best things I did with my LMT MWS.

not sure if you can see the Velcro on my brass deflector, but it helps big time!! I also use a brass catcher at the range so I'm not spending my entire day hunting down brass that my LMT ejects 15' feet away and also helps from the case mouth getting beat up when it hits the concrete or wall.


can you see the Velcro or not?

my home made brass catcher as in this picture... made from a airplane carry on duffle bag, pillow cover, and a plastic tray liner.... LOL! yes, it is red neck but it works 100%! this is my nephew hitting 3" AR500 plates at the 300yard range with my LMT, and the first time he has ever shot a rifle before. He was hitting them one after another no problem!

 

[elfster1234]

do batches of 50 or 100pcs! increments of 50 as your bullets usually come in 100pcs right! ???

just cleaned brass from a batch of 500pcs of lake city 7.62

this is how beat up your brass will get on about the 5th fire to give you can idea.... ill trash mine on about the 5th to 6th fire as it is so beat up by that time & might start showing signs of case head separation or cracked neck.

 

[Evol ways]

Elfster I will take your advice and do reloads in batches. It really does make sense as you can track how many firings they have had. I am really hoping I can find the sinclair bump gage as I am just a huge fan of their products. I really only need the insert as the body's are in stock but its a bummer reloading is at a stand still due to that important piece of equipment being out of stock.

That's a good idea with the Velcro. I did just upgrade to the slash's spring and buffer to try and help with being overgassed and launching brass. I will need to buy some factory ammo to shoot out of my gun so I can get a baseline measurement. Do you think it matters what brand ammo I use to get my measurements?

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice.

 

[pmclaine]

Elfster I will take your advice and do reloads in batches. It really does make sense as you can track how many firings they have had. I am really hoping I can find the sinclair bump gage as I am just a huge fan of their products. I really only need the insert as the body's are in stock but its a bummer reloading is at a stand still due to that important piece of equipment being out of stock.

That's a good idea with the Velcro. I did just upgrade to the slash's spring and buffer to try and help with being overgassed and launching brass. I will need to buy some factory ammo to shoot out of my gun so I can get a baseline measurement. Do you think it matters what brand ammo I use to get my measurements?

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice.

Im a big fan of Sinclair company/stuff also but for this product I think the Hornady/Stony Point will serve you just as well and will probably cost you less. The Hornady kit comes with inserts for a bunch of calibers. I also own an RCBS precision mic and think its as great tool but because it is caliber specific tooling up in these can be expensive.

You can reload without a headspace gauge safely by setting up your die per manufacturers instructions and checking in your chamber.

I started out basic and than "the Quest" takes over and you start buying crazy precision tools.

I am limiting my OCD to a Hornady Bullet Comparator that measures the length of your round off the ogive so you can get a true repeatable measurement of whats going on with your seater.

I am also setting my dies using a Hornady Headspace gauge. I reload 30-06 for three rifles (two bolts, one semi). I make all my ammo to load for the semi with a bump of +/-.003.

Im setting up soon for .308 (MWS) and .223 (AR) and will have a bullet comparator and headspace gauge for these calibers. In fact because I bought the Hornady kit that comes with those inserts Im already good to go.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Inexpensive AR brass catcher. I'm trying one on my 5.56 AR. Still getting used to it, not perfect yet, but a big help.

Greg

 

[Evol ways]

Inexpensive AR brass catcher. I'm trying one on my 5.56 AR. Still getting used to it, not perfect yet, but a big help.

Greg

I was thinking of just building my own brass catcher. Shouldn't be to hard I would think. Elfster has a pretty good setup.