Rifle Scopes Rem 700 Long Action 2pc of 1pc 20MOA base?

[cypriss32]

Im currently building a medium weight hunting rifle in 30-06. I chose to run standard BDL bottom metal, so im top load. I have NOT ever had a rifle like this. I always go badger/AICS mag. I am wondering what to use...
1pc 20MOA or 2pc 20MOA?

 

[FailureToStart]

Personally, I'd go with a Badger 1pc. I personally find that the scope knobs are more likely to get in my way than the rail.

 

[sawman556]

Badger 1 piece steel base FTW.

 

[-Nick-]

Badger 1 piece because it gives you more options for your glass set-up. When you use 2 piece bases it limits ring placement and often there's limited adjustment for sight relief.

 

[CSTactical]

I recommend 1 piece bases. Badger or Nightforce the 2 I mainly use my self. We should have both makes in stock.


Mike CSTACTICAL

 

[Trey@SportOptics]

i have a 20MOA 1 piece nightforce base on my 700 and i couldn't be happier. like mike said i would go with a 1 piece. badger or NF will get the job done

 

[Deadshot2]

Definitely one piece, and in steel not aluminum.

I see the rail as additional reinforcement to the action (albeit small) and upgrade the mount screws to 8-40 from 6-48. Also bed the scope rail.

 

[Sniper Uncle]

Definitely one piece, and in steel not aluminum.

I see the rail as additional reinforcement to the action (albeit small) and upgrade the mount screws to 8-40 from 6-48. Also bed the scope rail.

Correct on both counts----One Piece, and Larger Screws. Oh, and yes to steel. I have two Rem-700's, both with one piece rails, one in 30.06, and one in 338LM, and the rails do not get in the way at all. My gunsmith actually welded the rail onto my 338LM to add even more strength---you want to be sure to have the right base if you do this. I actually shot a scope off on my 30.06----It was on a two piece rail, and the screws sheared off on the front mount from recoil, and the scope fell of on the bench. The one piece rail helps with all four screws working together to hold the rail. Also, the one piece rails seem to have a better recoil lug on them.

 

[Deadshot2]

Correct on both counts----One Piece, and Larger Screws. Oh, and yes to steel. I have two Rem-700's, both with one piece rails, one in 30.06, and one in 338LM, and the rails do not get in the way at all. My gunsmith actually welded the rail onto my 338LM to add even more strength---you want to be sure to have the right base if you do this. I actually shot a scope off on my 30.06----It was on a two piece rail, and the screws sheared off on the front mount from recoil, and the scope fell of on the bench. The one piece rail helps with all four screws working together to hold the rail. Also, the one piece rails seem to have a better recoil lug on them.

If you don't want to weld the rail to the action then just do a good de-grease job on both action and bottom of rail then bed using the highest strength epoxy you can find that has a steel filler in it. Use parting agent (like Kiwi Shoe Polish, Johnson's Floor Wax, etc) on the screw threads so the screws can be easily removed if you ever want to remove the base. Then a little heat from a focused torch flame and it will part from the action.

For recoil lugs, the Ken Farrel "G-Force" rails have an adjustable "lug". A screw that can be adjusted to essentially pre-load the setup as much as you wish. This can actually help with tuning on some rifles, just like playing with action screw torque.