• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Belted magnum: to neck size or full length size

nuclear_shooter

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 28, 2013
619
11
I aquired a 300 Winchester Magnum in January and have finally got it set up. I've shot some of the crappy Walmart ammo and am looking to reload. My question is this: what are the advantages of neck sizing vs full length sizing with belted magnums? I've read though some forum threads and I'm having trouble sorting though the information. I've read a lot of contradictory information so I want to get peoples experiances with both neck and full length sizing are, and how each effects brass life and accuarcy. I'm not looking for benchrest accuarcy here. It might also be worth mentioning that this will be my first reloading experiance with a rifle.

Edit: Might as well consider bumping the shoulder as an option as well. Also shooters who reload other belted mags like 7mm rem mag, feel free to weigh in.
 
Last edited:
If it's a bolt gun, neck size. The go gauge on a belted is .220" most belts are way under. Weatherby is the worst.

The above is case life/accuracy related.

If you are hunting dangerous game, f/l size.
 
I have a 7mm rem mag
I buy Hornady brass for this gun and brand new brass I can't close the bolt or extremely tough...I use the full length resizer and keep turning in the die 1/16 turn untill the brass chambers smoothly

This is a hunting setup for me so I CAN'T have a sticky bolt incase a fast follow up shot is needed, and this setup works perfect
 
Thanks for the info guys! My once fired brass chambers quite smoothly. It was a pretty light load, 180 gr Remington Core-Lok (the only ammo I could find at the time).

Belted Magnum cartridges are suppose to headspace off the belt. That's a joke though.

Get yourself a Wilson Headspace gage. You set it up using a fired round from your chamber.

Neck size for target shooting, full length resize for hunting applications.

If you set the gage up with a unfired piece of brass first and then drop in one of your fired cases

You'll be surprised as to what happed to the case shoulder.

For longest case life you'll want to headspace off the shoulder and to hell with the belt.

YMMV

Regards,

Steve

I was actually planning on getting a gauge like that plus also an RCBS Mic or similar tool (suggestions?) to get a exact measurement of headspace and ogive.

I'm guessing after reloading and firing a peice of brass I'll have to bump the shoulder back a little bit or it will start sticking. Have you guys experianced this or is that just if you operate at higher than recommended (by your reloading book anyway) pressures?

Edit: I should probably add that the gun is a Remington 700P.
 
Won't so much be a matter of sticking as the brass will just not chamber and your bolt won't close.

There will not be a definitive answer on neck versus fl sizing and in reality you'll just have to find out which one works for you.

I mainly rely on the Lee collet die to neck size on my 300 and I can get two firings on new brass without having chambering issues and then I just use the redding body die to bump the shoulders back. Was relatively cheap ($40~50 bucks) for the two dies versus the cost of a high end bushing f/l sizing die and I get great and repeatable results. But ask someone else they will say that they get just as good if not better results with just one f/l in half the steps. Really just have to start somewhere and see if it works for you and if not keep trying till you find something that does.

The only thing that would definitely be prudent which your already on to is to get some gauge device to check your headspace and bump shoulders minimally.
 
Last edited:
I use the RCBS Precision Mic in several calibers. I find it accurate and easy to use.
I saw the new Forster gauge at SHOT this year tho, and might be tempted to buy that as one tool covers multiple calibers.
My 300 win fired brass, Winchester brass, does not chamber so I have to bump the shoulders each time.
Good luck!
 
The Wilson headspace gauge for the 300 WM is adjustable so you can set it to the proper headspace for your rifle. The RCBS Precision Mic is accurate and would recommend it over the Wilson if you are trying to set up your dies to bump the shoulder back by a few thousandths. I set up my dies for belted magnums just as I do for non-belted cases. Don't follow the instructions that come with the dies that have the die contact the shell holder since this could possibly oversize the case which can result in shorter case life and possibly failure. I have neck sized with competition dies and resized with body dies when chambering becomes tight. I also use Type S bushing dies with good results with little or no runout. The body die and FL die will yield the same results if setup properly. By using the Type S die you will save some steps if you have to FL size. Don't use the expander ball if you are using bushing dies.

I have had very good results with Norma brass with multiple reloadings by setting the dies to to bump the shoulder back approximately .002. At some point the brass will harden which will require annealing if you want to get consistent sizing as well as neck tension.
 
Last edited:
Thanks again guys, lots of good information here! As for dies, I got the Redding deluxe set. Its basically their normal dies but comes with both a neck and full length sizer. I considered the competition dies with bushings and mic seating measurements but I didn't want to drop that kind of coin right off the bat. I'm not a good enough shot yet to justify it, and when the time comes to upgrade I can probably get a good portion of my money back selling the dies.

I guess my plan is as follows: I will measure the headspace on once fired brass. If I understand properly this will be approximately the headspace of my chamber. I will then neck size until it no longer chambers properly. I will then bump the shoulder back using the full length sizer to the value I measured off my once fired brass. I suppose it would also be wise to check the inside of the brass for incipent head separation using the paperclip method after I start using the full length sizer.
 
If you neck size for a 300WM you are asking for trouble. If you use a Lee collet die for 300WM you are asking for trouble. I have used both and had serious trouble untill I started FL sizing with minimal shoulder bump. My problems magically went away. Neck sizing is not the holy grail of accuracy that some will claim. Properly FL sized ammo will be just as accurate. Neck sizing does not make brass last longer than PROPER FL sizing, it is a myth. The limiting factor in case life is strength/heat of the load and your primer pocket.
 
If you neck size for a 300WM you are asking for trouble. If you use a Lee collet die for 300WM you are asking for trouble. I have used both and had serious trouble untill I started FL sizing with minimal shoulder bump. My problems magically went away. Neck sizing is not the holy grail of accuracy that some will claim. Properly FL sized ammo will be just as accurate. Neck sizing does not make brass last longer than PROPER FL sizing, it is a myth. The limiting factor in case life is strength/heat of the load and your primer pocket.

What sort of trouble? How did you determine proper full length sizing amount?
 
If you neck size for a 300WM you are asking for trouble. If you use a Lee collet die for 300WM you are asking for trouble. I have used both and had serious trouble untill I started FL sizing with minimal shoulder bump. My problems magically went away. Neck sizing is not the holy grail of accuracy that some will claim. Properly FL sized ammo will be just as accurate. Neck sizing does not make brass last longer than PROPER FL sizing, it is a myth. The limiting factor in case life is strength/heat of the load and your primer pocket.

I have used a neck size die & lee collet die to size thousands of belted magnum cases including the 300WM and never had an ounce of issue.
I am curious what is the serious trouble you speak of?

BTW I don't believe neck sizing imparts more accuracy to belted mag cartridge but it does save some time.
 
What sort of trouble? How did you determine proper full length sizing amount?
"Beating the bolt open with a hammer" trouble. No the load wasn't too hot. Changed to neck sizing and instant trouble extracting. Heard about the collet die, tried it, same trouble.
That was back before all the fancy gadgets to measure a sized case. Smoke the neck with a candle and size and adjust, size and adjust until you touch the shoulder. At that point you can turn the die in just a fraction of an inch and it will be about right. This was back when I was shooting 10-11" groups at 1K with a bone stock Sendero, using by guess and by God reloading tools cause precision measuring devices were too expensive or non existent. This is why I tell people all the time they don't need a fancy gadget to set up a die properly, it has been done with great results for many many years. I know some top flight shooters that don't own a single tool to measure a case for shoulder bump, nor do they own a set of neck dies. I never said I haven't used them or tried them. I have actually tried to use them numerous times. They are useless, especially if you need your ammunition to actually function and perform at the same time.

Neck sizing saves time? Now that is a brand new one, I will have to remember that one.

Most of the problems and obstacles that lead up to someone wanting to neck size a case, starts as misinformation(accuracy), and/or not knowing how to properly set up a FL die.
 
Neck sizing saves time? Now that is a brand new one, I will have to remember that one.

I assume he means its faster to set up.

I try to be wary about getting too caught up in gizmos and gadgets. But I come from a scientific background and I'm just used to verifying everything with measurement, so I will probably get a mic (or similar). I understand everybody has 'there way' of doing stuff, but I just don't have the confidence to set stuff up 'by feel'.
 
I use the Redding f/l die on my 300 set to bump the shoulder ~.001. Everything functions perfect and brass has five firings and has not needed to be trimmed. Pick up a set of Hornady headspace gauges, $30 and works great.
 
FL on everything. I get better consistency/ smoother chambering and I anneal. Just how I do it not the only way....
 
I load .300 H&H, which really does need a belted case. I've learned to FL size every time and I also need to use a belted magnum collet die to resize near the head of the case when needed. Otherwise, the head eventually swells up near the web and causes cases to get a little too sticky. Then I drop the case into the preset Wilson magnum gauge and done. Please excuse my case terminology but I think you know what I mean.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
For those of you that full length size only, how did you determinant how much to push the shoulder back, or do you just push in .001" back from where it sits every time?
 
You will need a bump gauge like Wisons or Hornady to determine that you are bumping back the shoulder. There are more expensive guages.
 
I reload several sizes of belted magnum (300 WM, 7mm Rem, 7mm STW, 300/7mm/257 Weatherby) and have always FL sized mine.

I got ahold of some nickel plated 1x fired 7mm Weatherby here awhile back in a trade and had something happen that I've never had happen. My dies "peeled" about 3/4" of the nickel plate off just above the belt. Now I've had some pieces that had a little shaved off but nothing like these. There were a couple of head stamps in the batch and I believe the ones in question were Federal. None of the other brands did that so I'm wondering if it was the brand....the nickel plating....or the other Shooter's rifle.

I'd always "heard" that that was the problem with belted magnums (seperating just above the belt) and am wondering ot that might be the reason.

Anyway, I'm going to FL resize everything that wasn't fired in my firearms but am thinking now that I need to get a neck sizing die for everything that is and possibly that will keep the brass from thinning just above the belt from FL sizing.
 
Well, first off you will need a FL die that is adjustable to bump the shoulder back.
 
I reload several sizes of belted magnum (300 WM, 7mm Rem, 7mm STW, 300/7mm/257 Weatherby) and have always FL sized mine.

I got ahold of some nickel plated 1x fired 7mm Weatherby here awhile back in a trade and had something happen that I've never had happen. My dies "peeled" about 3/4" of the nickel plate off just above the belt. Now I've had some pieces that had a little shaved off but nothing like these. There were a couple of head stamps in the batch and I believe the ones in question were Federal. None of the other brands did that so I'm wondering if it was the brand....the nickel plating....or the other Shooter's rifle.

I'd always "heard" that that was the problem with belted magnums (seperating just above the belt) and am wondering ot that might be the reason.

Anyway, I'm going to FL resize everything that wasn't fired in my firearms but am thinking now that I need to get a neck sizing die for everything that is and possibly that will keep the brass from thinning just above the belt from FL sizing.

FL sizing may eventually cause the case to swell near the web. That is the problem I experience with the .300 H&H. Repeated neck sizing also distorts the case size as well.
 
Don't you just adjust how far the die sits in the press?

Not necessarily. Set up your FL die according to instructions. You now have a SAAMI spec resized case. What does screwing the die down or up more actually do?
 
Not necessarily. Set up your FL die according to instructions. You now have a SAAMI spec resized case. What does screwing the die down or up more actually do?

Would it not effect how far the shoulder is pressed back? I find several sources saying this just by googling around (of course they could be full of shit).
 
Screwing the die in more simply decreases the amount of travel of the lever. Screwing it up increases the travel of the lever and enough reduces the amount of sizing out of specs. You can better see how a standard FL die is designed by looking at a cutaway image.
 
Screwing the die in more simply decreases the amount of travel of the lever. Screwing it up increases the travel of the lever and enough reduces the amount of sizing out of specs. You can better see how a standard FL die is designed by looking at a cutaway image.

What you are saying directly contradicts what others like armorpl8chikn are saying in this thread (unless I'm misunderstanding) and also what other people on other forms et cetera are saying (unless I'm confused which is entirly possible). Hoping some others will weigh in.

Edit: That is to say, other say set the FL sizer die to just bump the shoulder down, and you say to just set it up as per instructions and go with it. Not trying to accuse anybody of anything but I just want to understand.
 
Last edited:
YOU DO NOT NEED A GAUGE. You may think you do but you don't. I have loaded 300WM at least 6 times using the smoke on the neck method using a fairly stout load. No extraction problems, no head separation. I have been at this for 30+ years and I have never owned a Hornady gauge, and I will put my ammo up against anyone except the really looney BR guys.

If you set it up per directions, you will put the ram up, screw the die to touch ram, ease up on ram and turn die in just a wee bit more for camover. This is the limit to which you can size a particular piece of brass, with that shellholder and that die. NOW, you may or may not need to cam over to get 1 or 2 thousandths bump. You need a gauge to determine how much...or do you. Set up your die like the instructions say, but back it off a turn when you are done. At this point you will have a slight gap between the ram and the die. Take a candle and smoke the neck of a lubed case, just on one side, you don't need to coat the whole neck. Now run the case in the die. Where did the die push the soot to? How far do you need to go? if you didn't push the soot to the shoulder, tweek the die a 1/8th turn and size again until you see the soot line pushed to the neck shoulder juction. When you get there just give the die another slight turn and you should be fine. The amount of bump is not as important as long as it is MINIMAL. When you get your die like you want it lock it down with the set screw. If you do it right you shouldn't need to mess with this die again. Now if you use the die for different chambers and guns you will have to set it up each time. You can buy sizing dies seperate. A lot of guys like myself have different dies for different guns, unless you have two guns cut with same reamer and same headspace, which I have examples of also. Oh you can get a guage and they are handy but it is far better to master an art than it is to completely rely on gadgets and tools that are not necessarily needed. Never had a head separation in 30 years and end up throwing my brass away only after the primer pocket will no longer hold a primer. That is just the way it is. You don't have to believe me and others can continue to buy gadgets and gizmos until they are out of bench space, I don't care. I do however care about the little guy, that gets told all the things he NEEDS to reload really good match ammo, and most of the advice is bullshit.
The internet is a wonderful thing. It is simultaneously the greatest source of information and misinformation, on anything one can imagine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jackomason
armorpl8chikn, and you just use your normal full length sizer for this, correct? I will probably do your method, at least to start off. What I'm trying to understand is what Culpeper says about not using a FL sizer to bump the shoulder (which seems to be what others including yourself are advocating). Like I said I'm new to this and I know its a heavily debated topic on internet, so I'm just trying to get clear on whats going on.

Edit: BTW these instructions are very clear, thank you. I was a little bit confused before.
 
Last edited:
...This is the limit to which you can size a particular piece of brass, with that shellholder and that die. NOW, you may or may not need to cam over to get 1 or 2 thousandths bump.....

What he said. :) With a 300 Win Mag it is easy to visual see what he goes on to instruct. Let the chamber be your gauge.

I've noticed that setting up the FL die according to the instructions that came with it and running a fire formed case in it I don't need the "cam over" he is describing. This is why I don't think a standard FL die is really adjustable. Otherwise, it would be in the instructions. This procedure is not on my die instructions and I use two different brands.

Listen, and this needs to be revisited, the whole idea of FL sizing a belted magnum case versus neck sizing a belted magnum case is the former gives your case the needed room to breath upon the next firing. FL sizing reduces overall distortion of case size and gives added brass life without affecting accuracy. So, FL size, use a gauge or don't use a gauge, load your rounds, go out and enjoy shooting your own loads.

As an aside, you may want to read up on the .300 and .375 belted magnums. These were the original belted magnum cases. Then move up and research the later development of belted magnum cases. This will give you a good concept on the belted magnum cases. They all have the same lineage.
 
OK, I really don't know where to start except what I have experienced and what I've read from those who have much more experience than I.
First, I found that in my .300 wby I could neck size 1-2x before I had to run back in the fl sizer. Was getting tight to chamber. I followed the dies instructions and was over sizing my brass. Yes Culpeper you can adjust your fl die by how far it is screwed into the press. As a result I was overworking my brass and my case web ( the area near the base/head that the die can't resize) was to out of spec to chamber. When you resize a belted magnum all that bras is flowing or being pushed to the case head. If the fl sizer can't resize it (which it can't on a belted mag) you have brass that is in effect unshootable/unchamberable. I almost tossed 200+ pcs of brass before someone suggested Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment. That fixed my problem of bulged cases. I decided after reading articles such as The Rifleman's Journal: Basics: Headspace
that I now use a fl die to bump my shoulder .002. My brass life has increased and I can go 5-7 firings before having to go to the collet body die. I do like the idea of the lee collet neck sizer and then bumping the shoulder back but with a fl sizer. The Rifleman's Journal: Reloading: Two-Step Sizing and Concentricity
 
I use the same collet die as well and have the same results as you. As for FL dies being adjustable. I think they are only adjustable to the amount given in the instructions. My Lee dies call for an extra little turn. My Hornady die calls for no extra turn. I get the same result with each. Turning the die in more gives me no more adjustment. Think about it. There is nothing internal going on with the die. The belted case will only go in as far as the belt itself. I can see backing off the die so that the case can't reach to the belt in the die but what good will that do? I'm guessing on a 300 Win Mag the case goes all the way up into the die? I think FL dies are only adjustable in as much as the original instructions say they are. There is a built in limit to what they can do.
 
Thank you Culpeper, Wildboarem, and armorpl8chikn. I think I had a basic misunderstanding which the last few post really cleared up. Again, I am new to reloading necked cartridges (and, obviously, belted cartridges). There is a lot of misinformation out there about neck sizing vs full length sizing. I appreciate you guys being patient with me :D. This has been by far the most helpful thread about reloading belted mags (that I have come across, anyway).

That fixed my problem of bulged cases. I decided after reading articles such as The Rifleman's Journal: Basics: Headspace
that I now use a fl die to bump my shoulder .002. My brass life has increased and I can go 5-7 firings before having to go to the collet body die. I do like the idea of the lee collet neck sizer and then bumping the shoulder back but with a fl sizer. The Rifleman's Journal: Reloading: Two-Step Sizing and Concentricity

Thanks for these links, I'll give them a read when I have a bit more time.

As an aside, you may want to read up on the .300 and .375 belted magnums. These were the original belted magnum cases. Then move up and research the later development of belted magnum cases. This will give you a good concept on the belted magnum cases. They all have the same lineage.

Got any recommended reading?

EDIT: While I have a bunch of magnum shooters here... do you guys wait for your barrel to cool between shots?
 
Last edited:
seems the majority in the Thread are saying FL size only on .300wm . is the way to go ?

Me I never have FL size .300 wm shooting . I just set-up head-space off the shoulders right off the bat when re-barrel . Fire & neck-size only . Anneal every 4th time . I always have Smooth easy chambering of the rounds & nice easy extractions on the Brass & good brass life .

Everyone knows that's not the best chamber set-up with .300wm, when off the Belt . So If your 'Not' head-spacing off the Belt . ( is Not ? ) The hardest thing working on .300wm Brass firing them . & not running them thru the FL size each firing . So harder you push the charge the more faster & Work/Brittle the Brass . for Me I don't push the ragged edge on my loads . Me doing only 2925 vel. with 190's & that is about the norm. & my .300wm is a consistent hammer & my Brass last long time .
.
 
Precision Shooting published a book several years ago on reloading for accuracy that has an excellent section on reloading belted magnums. It recommends bumping the shoulder back .002 in order for the case to headspace off the shoulder. There are many ways to adjust your dies as discussed above. If you want consistent results get a gauge to adjust your dies. There are several on the market including Hornady, RCBS and Innovative Technologies. Work hardened brass will yield inconsistent sizing whether FL or neck sizing and the only way to correct this is through annealing.

The problem with setting up the dies for belted cases by having the shell holder contact the die is that the possibility exists that you will oversize the cases for your particular chamber. Remember belted cases are designed to headspace off the belt and dies are reamed for that. If you want to extend case life headspace off the shoulder and to do so properly will require a gauge. Your objective should be uniformity.

If you are reloading different makes of brass, I would recommend using FL dies that utilize a bushing such as Redding Type S dies. This will allow you to get consistent neck tension with various manufacture's brass. Also, it eliminates the need for the expander plug which is probably the single leading cause of excessive runout.
 
Evolution of Magnum Rifle Cartridges

300 H&H - THE MOST VERSATILE MAGNUM @ www.reloadersnest.com

As for barrel cooling. I don't pay much attention to it. It is not a machine gun. If I have to worry about cooling the barrel shooting a box of ammo than I'm shooting the wrong weapon. Like the man said. He shoots 10 rounds and gets 10 shot groups.

Thanks!

And yeah, so far I haven't worried about it at all. I initally thought I should but I couldn't really find any convincing arguments for why. I also passed on the break in too, though I've only put about 25 though the pipe so far... Maybe this stuff makes a difference on the .1 MOA level but I'm not nearly that good a shot (my first groups off a rest were good but I still need to adjust the bipod and eye relief a little bit. I'll probably post a thread about it later on).

Edit: ZiaHunter, thanks, more good information here. I opted for the cheaper dies to start with. Eventually I will upgrade to the S series dies but I'm working on a somewhat tight budget.
 
Last edited:
Before someone gets the wrong idea, I no longer load for the 300WM. I do still have a pile of brass with an untold number of firings on them. My disdain for neck sizing is not limited to a belted magnum. I have tried neck sizing with several including 6TCU and 7TCU with often dismal results. The 7TCU should be the greatest beneficiary of neck sizing, due to its rather sleight shoulder. Very easy to crush a 7TCU shoulder, when you do you will not know about it till you try to fire. This cartridge is very sensitive to headspace problems caused by improper FL die setup. Most guns chambered for this round had no camming action to crush the case into the chamber(break actions and falling blocks). If the case wasn't sized just right it may not chamber(easy to check and usually caused by neck sizing), or have excess headspace due to a crushed shoulder(won't fire, unless perhaps you have jammed the lands with bullet). I never had a problem with this tempermental wildcat, using the setup method I have described for you.

It appears Culpeper and I agree on this issue more than I thought. You can also have a situation where the FL die is actually unable to bump the shoulder enough with full cam over of the ram. This I why you hear tell of guys either surface grinding a shellholder, or buying the Redding BR set of shellholders. Luckily I have never needed either and I own some extremely tight chambers. If you have a factory chamber you are likely to have vast amounts of adjustment to get the proper shoulder bump. As has been said I think, chances are very good if you set up a FL die with heavy cam over,_just like many die instructions tell you to do, you will be grossly oversizing your brass. If you are loading for an auto you will need a bit more shoulder setback, as your primary goal should be function first.

Neck sizing is not new, nor cutting edge, it is in fact very old.
I don't hate gadgets and gizmos, I have owned many over the years fro reloading. I have sold most of them as I never found them to improve my efficiency or final results. I no longer own a tool to figure distance to the lands. You might be surprised how many 1000yd BR shooters don't own one, or no longer use one either. One tool I do own that is indispensable is my hex Sinclair bullet comparator, $20 well spent. And if you want to know your length to the lands in an actual measurement, you will need one. I make my own length to lands tools from once fired resized cases with a split neck, simple, and less than a dollar in most instances.

I need to start a sticky and label it,"Tips from the Old Curmudgeon on making world class ammo with home made tools and tricks."

PS:Expander plugs probably do cause severe runnout. It is a real bitch getting one centered in the die, so it would almost have to cause runnout. I will tell you another trick that will eliminate most if not all expander plug run out. I rig mine to float, and I have found it does make a difference. It works with most but not all dies. If your expander stem has a lock nut leave it loose. You should be able to wiggle the stem, this will cause it to self center as the case is pulled out of the die. You do need to be careful when you run the case in the die to let it find the flash hole. Another option is to deprime with universal die and use the poor mans floating expander with decapping pin removed. It works, I have done this for several years and my ammo has improved greatly. Yes my NECO concentricity gauge was sold years ago
 
Last edited:
I'd like to thank everybody for such a great thread. Almost everywhere on the internet you read that neck sizing is better for accuracy and brass life. The matter gets even more complicated with belted magnums. After reading this thread I will definitely be using a full length sizer.

As for the gauges, I will probably pick some up. As I stated before I come from a scientific background, so I feel better verifying my measurements, especially as a beginner. Here is actually what I will probably do. Do the 'candle mehtod', then measure using gauges. Once I feel confident enough, I will be able to do it without. Not trying to say using such a device makes me a better reloaded than those than don't (quite the opposite) it will just make me feel better on the inside :p .
 
Old thread, but a good info. I cannot let my 7mm mag brass go more than one firings without having to FLS to ensure chambering is smooth and reliable. I've stopped neck sizing as a result. I do size the base after every firing with the Innovative Technologies collet resizing die. Seems to be working great so far.
 
If you neck size for a 300WM you are asking for trouble. If you use a Lee collet die for 300WM you are asking for trouble. I have used both and had serious trouble untill I started FL sizing with minimal shoulder bump. My problems magically went away. Neck sizing is not the holy grail of accuracy that some will claim. Properly FL sized ammo will be just as accurate. Neck sizing does not make brass last longer than PROPER FL sizing, it is a myth. The limiting factor in case life is strength/heat of the load and your primer pocket.

There is no trouble with using Lee collet neck dies in any caliber.
 
There is no trouble with using Lee collet neck dies in any caliber.

7 years has gone by since I posted that.
This must be very important to you.

So I either had no trouble, or I'm too stupid to use a Lee collet die.
I have been handloading for 38 years now. I have loaded intensely for hunting, high power, 2 disciplines of NRA silhouette, 4 disciplines of IHMSA silhouette, 1000ydBR, 3-gun, Designated Marksman, and a few outlaw matches.

Lee makes a great decapping die, a great factory crimp die (if one were to be convinced they need such a thing), and they used to make a great priming tool(Auto Prime II), their shotshell loaders are a great value.

I'm sorry I hurt your feels or whatever. Use whatever you like, I'm just a French model.
"Bon jour"