Say I have about $500 to spend. Which option would you think has the most training and overall upside?
- Thread starter wwrhodes91
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I clicked other. Buying reloading equipment is the best thing to do, but you're picking the absolute worst time ever to do so. Buying 500 bucks worth of ammo will help, but only takes you THAT far.
Finding someone at the range that will take some pity on you and help by reloading for you at the moment would be ideal, until things return to normal, whatever that's going to mean.
It's amazing to me how we all got here, from all walks of life, to all different parts of the country. Around here, I off hand can't name one avid shooter, who doesn't hand load.
Finding someone at the range that will take some pity on you and help by reloading for you at the moment would be ideal, until things return to normal, whatever that's going to mean.
It's amazing to me how we all got here, from all walks of life, to all different parts of the country. Around here, I off hand can't name one avid shooter, who doesn't hand load.
Ammo right now is still somewhat overpriced. $500 won't get you very far, and more importantly you won't be able to practice with any consistency. Nothing sucks more than seeing improvement and then not knowing when you'll have more ammo to go out again.
Reloading equipment is like all 'hobby' related things in that it is way way way more expensive than you intend to start with. You will always be after something else, and also remember, you need to buy components which right now suck to find but are available at the right places (and prices) if you back-order them and just wait for them to appear.
If you have patience, I'd go the reloading route and maybe grab some ammo here and there to shoot with (and use for reloading) and then start ordering components. What reloading setup were you looking at? For $500 (including components) I do not think you can get everything needed (even if starting with a single stage RCBS chucker) as most people do not factor in the costs of ALL of the tools needed for reloading past the press and dies (calipers, powder thrower, case gauge, seating (ogive) gauge, tumbler, media, case lube, primer uniformer, primer pocket cleaner, trimmer, deburrer, etc)
Reloading equipment is like all 'hobby' related things in that it is way way way more expensive than you intend to start with. You will always be after something else, and also remember, you need to buy components which right now suck to find but are available at the right places (and prices) if you back-order them and just wait for them to appear.
If you have patience, I'd go the reloading route and maybe grab some ammo here and there to shoot with (and use for reloading) and then start ordering components. What reloading setup were you looking at? For $500 (including components) I do not think you can get everything needed (even if starting with a single stage RCBS chucker) as most people do not factor in the costs of ALL of the tools needed for reloading past the press and dies (calipers, powder thrower, case gauge, seating (ogive) gauge, tumbler, media, case lube, primer uniformer, primer pocket cleaner, trimmer, deburrer, etc)
I am not planning on getting a tumbler, but I've priced everything else at $350.
That sounds like the RCBS kit.
You will need a tumbler and quite a bit of measurement and case prep kit as well (unless you have priced this out and what you were looking at includes them). But overall, going with reloading is the better bet for many reasons.
No kits. Everything is individual. The only things I haven't priced yet are the gauges because I was told I wouldn't need them starting off.
What is your intended goal at the end of the $500? If it's noticeable improvement in your shooting skills then I'd allocate at least SOME of that 500 for a training course that focuses on the area of your shooting you'd like to improve. You can blow 500 in ammo pretty quickly but without knowing where you're making mistakes your "practice" isn't necessarily going to result in improvement.
Buy the reloading equipment. This mess will ease up by next year, providing something stupid doesn't happen. Components are becoming available...albeit not readily available, but you'll be ready when that day comes.
If you consider yourself a rifleman, you ought to be reloading.
If you consider yourself a rifleman, you ought to be reloading.
I would honestly say this is incorrect.
At a minimum for accuracy bolt gun loading you need a good set of calipers (youll use these ALL the time), bullet comparator with inserts (for measuring true COAL on the ogive), and a case gauge (for setting up the head-spacing on your resizing die). There's a bunch of stuff you don't need unless you're wanting to break a world record or drive yourself crazy but these are what I would think of as required.
Nice thing is, you can get these for about $100 together.
I was including calipers. Would you mind linking some good gauges?
Yeah, I know nothing will beat real trigger time on the intended rifle. I only included the air rifle because I was on my college's air rifle team and I would say that it improved my marksmanship abilities dramatically. When millimeters start to matter... everything must be done perfect.
Amazon.com: Hornady Lock N Load Overall Length Gauge (straight): Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com: Hornady Lock N Load Comparator Set Body & 6 Inserts: Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com: Hornady Lock N Load .308 Winchester Modified Case: Sports & Outdoors
BTW, a tumbler is mandatory unless you want to mess up your dies. Getting standard RCBS dies will work fine.
Reloading equipment and components are a real PITA to get now.
Keeping at a 500 dollar budget, a package setup that includes the basics of getting started would be the best choice, while I ( and I'm sure all others that reload) have discovered over time is that the equipment we started out with is most likely not the same stuff we use today except for maybe the actual press. I remember the days of using a spoon to trickle powder on my small hand scale and now my powder measure takes up most of your initial budget. In other words, get the essentials now and as you figure out what works and what doesn't, your equipment will evolve. you can save money and get one of those hand crank tumblers but you will be upgrading that sooner than you think. Every once in a while you can find some good sets at gun shows but most of the reloading stuff I normally see are rusted out junk that some old guy found in a garage sale.
I would go with the reloading stuff. I'd look at kits too, because you can get better pricing on the stuff in the kit than individually....
i think training and reloading are quite different. you mentioned college rifle team so I think that's a good place to start from and such but a one on one with a good instructor will probably make the most of your efforts.
While training and reloading are vastly different, with a limited budget, the reloading allows for a lot more range time. Going to a class may be useful, but you need ammo to go to said class. Also, all the money spent on the class could be used for ammo. There is a wealth of readable and watchable information on marksmanship and the principles thereof, readily available for free, much of if here on the hide, so,my advice, FWIW is spend the money on reloading, read and watch as much as possible, and go and shoot. Shooting itself is the best way to learn. The fundamentals have been explained by many sources.
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
All the kits I looked at were quite a bit more expensive.
Are you sure you priced everything in the kit seperately???? I got the Rock Chucker Supreme Kit, and saved about $70 from the individual prices. That was about in April of 2012, but I think most of the prices have risen together.....
How bout other. I just finished the competition preparation course at k and m training in florida, and it is the best 250 I have spent since I started shooting. Any course at k and m will put u light years ahead, and save u wasted practice ammo. IMHO, ymmv.
Yep, and most of the components are higher quality than comes in the kit... with several extras as well.
I don't get nearly as much time at the range as I had been last year, (2-3x/week) and as a result my consistency and match results suffered. I was forgetting simple things like adjusting parallax, and my fundamentals slipped. I realized because I didn't get to shoot as much I was nervous about shooting poorly what little time I got, and wasting my time/ammo. Now I've been shooting an air rifle every day for about 50-100 rounds, and my marksmanship is much improved and consistent. Now all the fundamentals are routine, I can relax and focus on reading wind instead of worrying whether a round went astray from a blown wind call or a technique flaw. A .22 is great for this as well if you can swing the range time.
Reloading equipment AND a 22. There is no replacement for trigger time. I'm hoping you will be able to find some free, or almost free, training at a club near you. Many clubs have classes, or classes conducted like a match. Once you figure out who the real shooters are at a club you will often find one willing to give you a few tips. Your geographic location does not appear on your profile. You might reach out to some local Hide members for help on finding such a club near you, or one that might be willing to give you some of their time.
I often use a 22 during the cool down periods for a high powered rifle. Because my range time is limited I make the most out of it when I do get there. Instead of waiting 5 or 10 minutes between shot strings being idle I switch to the 22 and keep working on technique. I have a 22 that mimics the configuration of my match rifle, which helps tremendously.
I often use a 22 during the cool down periods for a high powered rifle. Because my range time is limited I make the most out of it when I do get there. Instead of waiting 5 or 10 minutes between shot strings being idle I switch to the 22 and keep working on technique. I have a 22 that mimics the configuration of my match rifle, which helps tremendously.
I vote for reloading. Once you have the equipment you can make cheaper and more accurate ammo for a lifetime as long as components are available.
Prices reflect time of purchase and some sales.
Lee challenger breech lock kit- $105
Lee rifle 300 wsm 3 dies (came with shell holder)- $32
Cabelas 400 tumbler kit (includes media an polish)- $60
Calipers- $25
Lee specific case gauge trimmer- $6
Lee modern Reloading book- $16
100 pc 300 wsm brass -$70
100pc 155gr amax - $31
100pc 175gr sierra matchkings- $38
50pc 180gr accubonds- $32
3lb accurate 4350 powder- $66
1000 Cci aps large rifle primers- $43.50
Rcbs aps hand primer tool (bought the wrong primers so i needed this tool)- $50
Hazmat fee- $27.50
Shipping- $18
Total spent - $620
Have everything to get me started. Things i will want to get in future: digital scale- $???(seen some from $60-$240), rcbs precision mic?- $50, Lyman case prep tools -$55, powder trickler- $??
Went with the cheapo lee products cause i dont see any advantage for the expensive rcbs products. Lee kit cost me $105 on sale and rcbs equivalent was a little over $300 for similar items. A $200 savings to buy more bullets and powder.
Sure a competition micrometer seater die maybe nice but i can achieve the same results with some nail polish marking on my cheapo seater die for now(till extra money comes along). So not in a rush for expensive dies. I'm sure for the finely tuned reloader there will be better products to upgrade. I dont plan on neck turning right away but will probally have to get one in the future.
It will cost me between $40-$60 for a box of factory 20 rounds. I can make my own for roughly $25 and will be more finely tuned to my rifle and save in the long run( i keep telling myself that but will probally end up shooting more instead) but as long as the wife "understands" I'm saving by shooting more in the long run.
Prices reflect time of purchase and some sales.
Lee challenger breech lock kit- $105
Lee rifle 300 wsm 3 dies (came with shell holder)- $32
Cabelas 400 tumbler kit (includes media an polish)- $60
Calipers- $25
Lee specific case gauge trimmer- $6
Lee modern Reloading book- $16
100 pc 300 wsm brass -$70
100pc 155gr amax - $31
100pc 175gr sierra matchkings- $38
50pc 180gr accubonds- $32
3lb accurate 4350 powder- $66
1000 Cci aps large rifle primers- $43.50
Rcbs aps hand primer tool (bought the wrong primers so i needed this tool)- $50
Hazmat fee- $27.50
Shipping- $18
Total spent - $620
Have everything to get me started. Things i will want to get in future: digital scale- $???(seen some from $60-$240), rcbs precision mic?- $50, Lyman case prep tools -$55, powder trickler- $??
Went with the cheapo lee products cause i dont see any advantage for the expensive rcbs products. Lee kit cost me $105 on sale and rcbs equivalent was a little over $300 for similar items. A $200 savings to buy more bullets and powder.
Sure a competition micrometer seater die maybe nice but i can achieve the same results with some nail polish marking on my cheapo seater die for now(till extra money comes along). So not in a rush for expensive dies. I'm sure for the finely tuned reloader there will be better products to upgrade. I dont plan on neck turning right away but will probally have to get one in the future.
It will cost me between $40-$60 for a box of factory 20 rounds. I can make my own for roughly $25 and will be more finely tuned to my rifle and save in the long run( i keep telling myself that but will probally end up shooting more instead) but as long as the wife "understands" I'm saving by shooting more in the long run.
Thanks for the great reply... I've already been reloading for a month though
. Haven't noticed an accuracy improvement (FGMM was consistent 3/8 moa) but it is definitely cheaper!Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the great reply... I've already been reloading for a month though
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Keep at it. You may not see huge returns on accuracy in your first hand-loads. Hand Loading is some what of an art in itself, so it takes time to learn and can always be perfected even more----the rate of improvement may change as you reach different mile-stones of understanding and competency.
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