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Gunsmithing need help with custom savage build

jkg

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 26, 2007
11
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I need help with my savage custom build. It has a savage target action with Krieger barrel put together by Lester Bruno, who is a well respected Savage smith. He eliminated the barrel nut (!) and put it together like a remington. 6mm br . I got a custom wood stock (in beautiful maple) and bedded the action myself. I thought I did a good job. The barrel is entirely free floating. When I shoot off the bench with Lapua ammo, I get groups that are 1” or more at 100 yards. Seems like the groups are just as much side-to-side wide as anything. (For reference, I shoot much smaller groups (1/2”) with my totally-stock TRG 22.)

The rear action screw was a touch loose, so I tightened it. Not sure that is related.

But I have noticed that if I grab the barrel and give a sideways stress, the barrel can touch the end of the stock. There is a nice small gap around the barrel where it is free floated, but there must be enough flex in the barrel or the stock to allow the barrel to contact the stock when I stress it firmly, even with all 3 action screws FIRMLY tightened. I don’t know if this is normal, or if this is a sign of poorly performed bedding, or something else.

Any thoughts, before I call Bruno and ask if he thinks he did a good job? Should a free floating barrel be able to touch a wood stock if I provide a bending force to the barrel/stock at the fore end?
 

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Savages can be a bit touchy if their bedding isn't right. First did you check the after bedding stress to see if the bedding job was a good one or not? Did you float the tang from the rear screw back? Where pillars installed in the stock? On three screw actions I generally only tighten the middle screw enough to keep it there and thats about it.

Nice looking chunk of wood you have there though!
 
Very first thing I would check is to ensure the rear tang is floated. If its not, float it and try again...
 
you mean the rear tang should not be touching the stock? i thought the rear tang should be touching, and the tape around the barrel when bedding , so that the barrel is free floated but the entire action contacts the bedding.
 
News to me. What's up with that?

I dunno honestly, other than there's no screw in the tang of a Savage unlike a 700. I'd guess lack of consistent tension back there could cause consistency issues in the system.

I believe I've read here some shops bed a Savage just like they bed a 700 to include the tang (GA Precision comes to mind?) but the general consensus among experienced Savage shooters is to float it if one experiences accuracy issues.
 
The tang float starts from the rear action screw back. I've read that a lot, mostly on Savageshooters sight I believe. I don't recall why, but I'm pretty sure it's issues with stress, as there really is no tension back there. The safety is also an issue I think, but don't recall. I've always just made sure it's free floated like a barrel. I certainly would not think that a wood/laminate stock would flex that much. I've seen synthetic stocks do that, especially those Ultimate Sniper stocks. Had a problem with one myself. I tried to add bedding compound to the front to stiffen it. Even drilled holes through the stock and added all thread, then replaced the devcon in the webbing, but I had no luck there. Not sure if it was just that stock or what.

Anyhow, I'd definitely check the rear tang to make sure it's floating and I'd also check my action screw torq as well. I read an article on playing with action screw torq on Savage rifles and there being some vast improvement, but these numbers seemed to vary from rifle to rifle. I've had little issue with using 65 in lb of torq on both the front and back screws. Now this was all done on stocks that used an aluminum bedding block (as far as my own experience goes) that were skim bedded with devcon and had the recoil lug area bedded as well. I usually just put devcon, let it set, and then take a dremel to remove the devcon that is touching the barrel nut. I take it just down below the barrel nut area. I don't know if that's the right thing to do, but I don't really like my barrel to be touching anything. Then again, they are never 30" straight taper barrels either!
 
floating the tang may help -but I've seen savages that shoot extremely well bedded either way
was the bedding done stress free as in the sticky ?
also Id remove some more around the barrel if it was even close to touching
 
I performed a stress-free bedding job. I think I did not bed under the rear tang. But the weird part to me, is that, when I hold the barrel and push the fore-end of the stock, there is enough flex somewhere that the barrel can be pushed into the front of the stock. It is a solid maple stock. I guess my question is, should there be enough "flex" in the stock or barrel to do that normally, or does this suggest a defective bedding? I dont see the action moving at all when I stress the fore-end, so I am not sure if it is normal flex of the stock (or the bull barrel??) or abnormal motion somewhere??

Maybe I should take it apart, burr the bedding out, and start all over again...
 
I've heard of shooters making a Remage,but not the other way around.Anyway,I just checked a 338 edge build I just completed,and it has minimal barrel movement.Another 260 build in a boyds stock is the same.After doing a skim bed job,I loctite the screws,then snug them all.Then tighten the front screw(s),then check bolt movement while tightening the rear screw.I'll overtighten the rear screw till it impedes the bolt function,then back it out till the bolt moves freely.Sometimes it won't impede the bolt,then I tighten till I feel it's enough.Never had any use for torque specs,as every rifle is different.I would send it back to the builder and let him bed it correctly.That stock is too pretty to butcher up.
 
Don't have any advice other than maybe start again with the bedding. I do know that I have a model 12 target action fit like a Remington and the tang is bedded. It has never shot more than half inch, I don't think it's ever even shot that. Same make barrel too.
 
I sure wouldn't think the stock would be flexing that much, but I spent a lot of time on other things before I accepted the stock was flexing on my rifle. It's always possible I suppose, but I sure wouldn't think so. I don't really know what to tell ya here. It's difficult to say without having it in front of me, but I'm not a professional builder either. I just play with my own stuff and do what I can. I'd certainly want to make sure the bedding job was stress free of course. I might also check to make sure that the recoil lug isn't touching the stock and creating a pivot point. I did have that happen once. Had to start over and remove some material from the bottom of the stock there under the lug.
 
You mentioned lupua ammo. Have you hand loaded for this yet? The gun might shoot better that your trg-22 with proper loads.
 
What trigger ? Usually if i see horizontal at 100 i attribute that to bad bench manners or not pressing the trigger straight back. Lapua 6 mm bullets tend to be slightly smaller then other brands. What twist is barrel and what weight bullets?
 
jkg,

When you say you can flex the barrel to touch your stock you have a problem. I can flex a tupperware stock to touch the barrel but not the other way around. You also mention you didn't bed under the rear tang. Remember with a Savage it's the front two screws that hold the action. The design of the Savage isn't the best in this regard. The rear screw is just supposed to hold the trigger guard up there. It's not really a structure point for the mounting of that action into the stock. The problem you describe is the number one issue I hear about with bedding Savage actions. That is why a lot of guys say leave the back open. I don't like to do that. The rocking motion I suspect you are getting is because you have a high point somewhere in the center of your bedding. I like to get the whole action sitting on top of nicely cured (hardened) bedding. So that none of the screws can tweak the action any.

Clear it out and re-bed it. Or, you can take it down to where nothing rocks and skim bed it. It could have happened because when you torqued the action screws in, some of the rear bedding might still have been soft. Lifting the front of the action.

FWIW, I typically bed my Savage actions from in front of the recoil lug, all the way back to the rear of the action. You must be careful that during bedding/curing no movement takes place. This is more critical with this action than a Rem 700 because you have the ability to rock it and make a low spot (rear or middle) that will tweak the action. Get the bedding in place after taping off what you don't want touched, let it set up just a little bit. I then tape it into the action for bedding cure. No screws to tweak or torque the action. I use the guide screws to drop through the bottom metal only. If I don't use the bottom metal during the bedding and plan to cut the excess out later, I still use the guide screws to block out the screw holes.
 
I went Savington. Even went so far as to angle my bolt handle back like a Remington...
 

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Ditto ditto here as for bedding the whole recoil lug. Typical to have to hawg out a little extra in front of the lug to allow for an ample amount of continuos bedding material. 100% barrel float, no flex of a bull barrel held by 2 screws, 3rd for trigger guard. Maybe he's pivoting on a buildup over the front pillar?