Rifle Scopes M107 + S&B PMII 5-25x56 MSR vs H2CMR

[dglatting]

Relative newbie, so pardon my dumb questions.

After ten months of looking at a Surgeon Remedy, GAP, McMillan, and a AI 338 to challenge myself beyond 1,000 yards, a new Barrett M107A1 fell into my ownership last Sunday. Now I am looking for a scope, specifically a S&B PMII 5-25x56 and I am leaning toward the MSR reticule but the H2CMR is a bit curious.

The H2CMR reticule looks a bit busy and I'm not sure how visually useful those red lines will be on sunny days.(Note: I live in western Washington but the sun does come out in July and August, usually.) I'm curious of your experience with the H2CMR. Good? Bad? Ridiculous? How about compared to the MSR?

The Barrett web site shows the BORS system supports the PMII so I assume the S&B is rugged enough to sit on top of a M107. Yes?

Speaking of BORS, I am NOT looking to purchase one but I am curious as to opinions.

Finally, any words of wisdom on the M107 and optics is appreciated.

 

[Rob01]

Red lines?

 

[pmclaine]

I have an H2CMR and I am a newbie.

I was waiting for a 5-25X MSR and received notification that there were H2CMR scopes available. I took a real look at what it offered and it seems for milling I can do everything with H2CMR that MSR does without having to move off to the left corner scale. ROB01 had a post up that had some great pictures of the H2CMR reticle and it just seemed to make sense to me right away the information the scope was providing.

Im only shooting paper and steel from a stationary position at known distances so your needs may be different. Certainly give it a good look and compare the two.

As far as the red illumination goes turn it off and the lines are black. You may never need it but it will be there if you want it.

 

[dglatting]

Every reticule drawing I've seen of the H2CMR shows a large portion of the lines color as red. What isn't clear is that is their natural color or when illuminated.

 

[Rob01]

That's showing the portion that's illuminated. It's black when not illuminated. Excellent reticle. My favorite I have used and I have used alot. To me the MSR is the P4F with a "L" mil bracket. There are other small changes like line thickness and the center is at .5 mils unlike the .7 in the P4F but in use it's very similar. You can do everything the same with the H2CMR and also have the .2 mil marks for wind holds and movers. Also have the .1 mil breakdown between 2 and 3 mils on the vertical for finer break down.

 

[dglatting]

Thank you. That is useful and makes sense.

 

[pmclaine]

I find the hollow mil marks easier to pick up than the standard horizontal line

 

[AnschutzNerd]

Those swingers look like they're 400-yards out!

AN

 

[Rob01]

Exactly.

 

[pmclaine]

Those swingers look like they're 400-yards out!

AN

Pleas help a guy out that hasn't learned to mil distance yet because he hasn't had need to. Ive read the equation before but tell me exactly what is going on with me having a scope view to understand it with.

ie "The plate is this size. It is this many mils in size. Therefore divide by this = 400 yards"

 

[Captain Kirk]

target height (or width) X 27.77 (many use 27.778) divided by mil reading. Example; call Rob's target on the left 12" wide and it reads .8 mils wide on the reticle, take 12 X 27.778 which gives you 333.336 divided by your .8 mil estimation, you get 416.67 yards. I did this to keep the mil numbers even, but it looks less than .8. When you get really good with mil ranging, can measure down to five hundredths mil (0.05), it takes practice and a trained eye.

 

[pmclaine]

target height (or width) X 27.77 (many use 27.778) divided by mil reading. Example; call Rob's target on the left 12" wide and it reads .8 mils wide on the reticle, take 12 X 27.778 which gives you 333.336 divided by your .8 mil estimation, you get 416.67 yards. I did this to keep the mil numbers even, but it looks less than .8. When you get really good with mil ranging, can measure down to five hundredths mil (0.05), it takes practice and a trained eye.

Thank you. These practical examples make it more understandable. I played milling the plate a little greater than .8 so I now understand how there can be some plus or minus in the ranging.

So really the only number I need to remember is 27.778 than I have to have a good estimate of the actual dimensions of the target.

Reality I really dont have to remember any of the math but I do need to remember to go to the back of my IDB Data book and actually use all the information they include in their index pages when I have questions.

 

[Rob01]

Same pic at 25x so you can see the mils a little better. The round plate is 8". As you can see it's not .5 mils or .6. Right at about .55. Do that math. Learning to break down the reticle is the biggest thing in using it for anything.