MOA Picatinny base is too long (eye relief issue)

[longun83]

The base on my rifle is a small bit too long which doesn't give me the exact eye relief I need when I shoot. It needs to come back probably 1/4" ish.

My idea is to take it all apart, chop off what I need to with a mitre saw and I assume a diamond blade or a metal finishing blade, cerakote it or use some sort of rust resistant black paint, rebuild, level and zero... and there you go Jack!

Has anyone else done this before?

 

[CMH]

How is cutting your base going to affect eye relief?

 

[VJJPunisher]

That excess rail he cuts off will be glued to the cheek riser,there ya go jack

 

[shankster..]

The base on my rifle is a small bit too long which doesn't give me the exact eye relief I need when I shoot. It needs to come back probably 1/4" ish.

My idea is to take it all apart, chop off what I need to with a mitre saw and I assume a diamond blade or a metal finishing blade, cerakote it or use some sort of rust resistant black paint, rebuild, level and zero... and there you go Jack!

Has anyone else done this before?

This guy had successful results doing it:

 

[Rhyno]

Is your scope bell hitting it?

I bought a base that had a little extension that wouldn't let me pull the scope back where I wanted it, so I cut that extension off. It was only the part in front of the front two screws, it didn't even touch the rifle.

No issues, and proper eye relief was achieved.

 

[shankster..]

Is your scope bell hitting it?

I bought a base that had a little extension that wouldn't let me pull the scope back where I wanted it, so I cut that extension off. It was only the part in front of the front two screws, it didn't even touch the rifle.

No issues, and proper eye relief was achieved.

Now that scenario makes sense and the sentence is coherent.

 

[longun83]

Is your scope bell hitting it?

I bought a base that had a little extension that wouldn't let me pull the scope back where I wanted it, so I cut that extension off. It was only the part in front of the front two screws, it didn't even touch the rifle.

No issues, and proper eye relief was achieved.

That's exactly the problem. What sort of blade/saw did you use?

 

[longun83]

That excess rail he cuts off will be glued to the cheek riser,there ya go jack

I was going to drill a hole in it and make a key chain.

 

[Rhyno]

I just used a hack saw. Didn't take very long.

 

[longun83]

I just used a hack saw. Didn't take very long.

I brought it in to the weapons shop at my unit. He hacksawed it, and then used a grinder to make a nice clean curve and surface on the cut. I'm going to hit it with some tremclad, put it back together and zero it tomorrow after work.

All for the price of a medium double/double. Lol

 

[GunMax]

I would just use a grinder and some black paint!!

 

[longun83]

I brought it in to the weapons shop at my unit. He hacksawed it, and then used a grinder to make a nice clean curve and surface on the cut. I'm going to hit it with some tremclad, put it back together and zero it tomorrow after work.

All for the price of a medium double/double. Lol

That's what I did. It turned out pretty good. It's all setup and ready to go. It's raining here so shooting it will have to wait until the weekend. It's different when you are talking about a rifle that you paid for versus a taxpayer funded rifle from work.

 

[UNCIVILIZED]

I did just such a thing, & it turned out fine. The longest & most difficult part was digging out the toolbox in order to find my hack saw. And a word to the wise, if you go to reaching for the Dremel, or a grinder, excercise caution. Not that it's likely that anything unfixable will happen, but how much of a hurry are you really in? It's a lot easier to avoid making a pricey mistake with a file, than it is to unf**k an error due to a lapse in concentration when using a power tool.

As to where to chop the base, perhaps it'd make sense to remove a little more length than you think that you need. That way you'll have a bit of "wiggle room" if/when your shooting style changes, or you adjust the fit of the rifle a little bit for various layers of garments, etc, etc. That, or you need to adjust the fit of things a bit for a different shooter, ad infinitum.

On coatings, you needn't go full on ceracoat/duracoat option. I spoke to the guys @ Brownells, & they enlightened me to the fact that they've got plenty of rattle can coatings, which after 15 minutes in the toaster oven, will do the job almost as well. Just bake on a couple of base coats, & then have fun using a few colors, some sticks, leaves, & such, making your stick "invisible".

 

[longun83]

I did just such a thing, & it turned out fine. The longest & most difficult part was digging out the toolbox in order to find my hack saw. And a word to the wise, if you go to reaching for the Dremel, or a grinder, excercise caution. Not that it's likely that anything unfixable will happen, but how much of a hurry are you really in? It's a lot easier to avoid making a pricey mistake with a file, than it is to unf**k an error due to a lapse in concentration when using a power tool.

As to where to chop the base, perhaps it'd make sense to remove a little more length than you think that you need. That way you'll have a bit of "wiggle room" if/when your shooting style changes, or you adjust the fit of the rifle a little bit for various layers of garments, etc, etc. That, or you need to adjust the fit of things a bit for a different shooter, ad infinitum.

On coatings, you needn't go full on ceracoat/duracoat option. I spoke to the guys @ Brownells, & they enlightened me to the fact that they've got plenty of rattle can coatings, which after 15 minutes in the toaster oven, will do the job almost as well. Just bake on a couple of base coats, & then have fun using a few colors, some sticks, leaves, & such, making your stick "invisible".

See above post.Lol It's already done. Over the winter I am thinking of taking it all apart and getting it painted OD green to match the stock (Ghillie Green by Hogue). As for the pretty camo pattern....not likely unless I get adventurous and wrap it in a laundry bag for the snake skin sort of look.

 

[Griffino]

Just a hint: I've cut so much aluminum using my chop saw with a quality carbide blade. Key is; hold tight, firm grip, slow motion, eye/ear/face protection

Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk

 

[athhud]

I've cut a lot of aluminum with carbide too. Most of the time it works fine. I've had a few occasions where I was cutting an odd shape or and odd angle and a tooth caught the material and yanked it hard enough to bend, break, or take a large chunk out of the work piece. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on a piece of tubing or flat bar, but on a base that could cost a hundred dollars or more.... I'll stick to a hacksaw or bandsaw.