My Savage Mark 2 FVSR project...

[Ring]

this will be a ongoing thread as i do more work...

what i will be doing


* = Done
*lapping the action
*polishing the cocking ramp
*removing all the sharp edges from the action
*coating the bolt and inside the receiver in KG-gunkote Moly OD green
*action and barrel in KG-Gunkote FDE
*accuracy test
*then fire lap the barrel and retest accuracy
*add Boyds Tac stock
*retest accuracy againe 9/13/13
Piller bed the stock
retest




lapping... you want to use a vary fine compound, 600 or higher... im using JB bore paste
rub it on and and work the bolt, 50 or 100 times...



this should take out all the rough and high spots..










wipe it off when done, and use brake cleaner to flush..



you dont "need" to take apart the bolt to polish the cocking ramp.. you can use a dremel with buffer pad or felt wheel and the fine emory eraser bits


if you WANT to take it appart, read here
Savage 93 Bolt Disassembly - RimfireCentral.com Forums
keep in mind.... the C-clip and the spring compression is a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ASS





another place you want to lap is the junction where the 2 bolt haves meet..


to do this, put the front part of the bolt into a padded vice.. pull back on the rear half, and it will separate about .5 inch





add some lapping compound and spin the shit out of it...


when done it should be supper smooth and shiny..
when fully done, you will want to put grease here





you can also see the lapping marks in the receiver... you will also notice, every edge, from the ejection port to the rear of the receiver and all inbetween has sharp edges..
im removing and polishing those, it will be covered by the KG when done.. you could cold blue it if you wanted to keep it blue


i did this with a deburring tool, and a dremel with the emory eraser bits

 

[Ring]

polish the channel the bolt handle rides in, and the cocking ramps on the receiver as well






prep for paint and spray... to keep paint out of the barrel, drop a bullet in the barrel and push another in the front to cover the rifling..


you can use krylon or duracote, KG, Cera or alumahyde.... bake if needed..


make sure to loctite "blue or low purple" the scope base back on.. from the factory, mine was not, and all 4 were loose...

done for today... more later this week...



8/29/13


1st accuracy base line test.. none of this ammo is "match"... just what i had lying around..





after this, i lapped the bore and did a ceramic bore cote
http://www.dyna-tek.com/Bore-Coat-Article-s/1839.htm

 

[Ring]

retested after lapping...
ammo



as we see, the grouping got a bit better, but the REM SS still blow hard....
CCI segmented SS work well though... need to try on some ground hogs..





the Boyds is NICE... but heavy!.. wont be a good walk around squirrel gun.. will need to save the old stock for that..











got the Boyds today.. but dont have the parts to mount yet..


on a side note... tested Aguila SSS Sniper Subsonic..... ya.. it dont like that.... keyholing at 10ft

 

[Ring]

EDIT: *retest accuracy againe 9/13/13


ammo weighed, test used 50.7gr Blazer


then added limbsaver barrel de resonator <--- Definitely helped

 

[Ring]

the KG moly is super thin and slick... when i used it in the past for this on other guys mk2's it was fine.. but i got overspray of the tan in the action .. so its a tad stiffer than it should be... i can relap it to get the tan out, or i would need to bead blast it off and respray

 

[Ring]

update.............

 

[JelloStorm]

I installed pillars and bedded my Boyds Rimfire Hunter onto my Savage 93r17. The feel is so much better and my groups did get better, however yes it is slightly heavier. I have a Vortex Viper HS 4-16x50 on mine so that doesn't help either LOL

Squirrels watch out!!!

 

[TOP PREDATOR]

excellent write up on the how to lap the bolt. out of all the wierd stuff i've done, never thought of doing it, thanks for planting the seed of a future task.

 

[jcoffey784]

I have a mark 2 fv with about 1500 rounds through it. Do you think lapping the bolt and polishing the cocking ramp will help me any at this point? I have mine in a boyds evolution stock already, and plan to have the barrel cut and re-crowned at 16.25" to shift the weight back a little. I would like to knock down the sharp edges on the action when I have time, but I was unsure if the lapping would help. Tomorrow is first day of squirrel season so it will have to wait a bit, but as of now it is plenty accurate for squirrel hunting. I would recommend CCI standard velocity if you can find any. its only a few dollars more a brick than winchester 555 bulk and shoot amazing out of my rifle, better than wolf mt believe it or not. Excellent write up by the way, I am book marking so when i am bored this winter i can refer back and do a little work.

 

[Ring]

lapping may not help a ton... but it wont hurt....

 

[Twisted .308]

Try some Aguila Golden Eagle Target 40gr. Or Fiocchi Std velocity Both of these are under 1100fps My FVSR shoots them quite well and still subsonic Thanks for the write up and tips !

 

[Ring]

updated............

 

[2guard]

if you are wanting to drop some weight off the stock, take the buttpad off and drill a 3/4-1" hole in the back of the stock. You can go shallow or deep depending on how much weight/wood you want to remove. I did this for an adjustable buttplate and noticed it took quite a bit of weight off (of course, weight came back to mine when I added the aluminum extension tube for the buttplate). Go slow, keep it straight, and you will be fine. Helps the gun point a little better being front heavy, but think about your balance before you do this if you are running the can in the pic all the time. Should be ok with the fvsr's 16.5" barrel, mine was on an fvt with a 21" (if I remember correctly) barrel with sight base and sight.

 

[Killswitch Engage]

I haven't done any of that voodoo to my mark 2 and it shoots significantly better then that with aguilla SE subsonic 38gr and cci 40gr subsonic. Like 1/2" at 40yds. Maybe I got lucky with mine.

 

[nuclear_shooter]

Out of the box my Mark II BV shot about 1" to 1.5" groups with bulk shit ammo, and 0.5" groups with Eley (Target/Club). You have any plans to test with better ammo?

 

[Ring]

when I can find some

 

[sakobob]

I haven't done any of that voodoo to my mark 2 and it shoots significantly better then that with aguilla SE subsonic 38gr and cci 40gr subsonic. Like 1/2" at 40yds. Maybe I got lucky with mine.

you get lucky with all your guns.....hay wait a minute i dont think its the gun at all, you really need to go that extra ten yards
and see what happens, wind , spin drift, thermals,ect.....

 

[UNCIVILIZED]

If you want to take some weight out of the stock, you can cut & or drill lightening holes in non-structural areas. And if you like, fill the spots where you removed the wood with blue/pink-board foam, & or insulating foam in a spray can. Then cover the holes & cutouts with a layer of fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth, & epoxy.
Usually just a layer or two of light weight cloth is plenty strong & stiff, especially if you're using carbon fiber.

This technique works particularly well for the butt area, & the underside of the forend of the stock. It's not a giant weight savings, but every little bit helps. Plus, if done right, the stock actually winds up being tougher & stiffer as a bonus. That & it allows you to tune the balance of the weapon as well.

 

[flylo]

I haven't done any of that voodoo to my mark 2 and it shoots significantly better then that with aguilla SE subsonic 38gr and cci 40gr subsonic. Like 1/2" at 40yds. Maybe I got lucky with mine.

Mine too!

 

[HodgdonExtreme]

Here is a little "Pro-tip" for smoothing/polishing the faces of the bolt that turn against eachother on these actions.

Once you disassemble the bolt, you will have a front half and a rear half. One side has a boss on it that engages into the other half - and they will rotate relative to one another.

It is easy enough to lay a piece of ~500 grit sand paper on a piece of glass and polish the side WITHOUT the protruding boss, but how to handle the side WITH it?

Take a piece of fired 45ACP brass, and use your casemouth deburring tool to sharpen the 45 casemouth. Use this as a punch to knock out a perfect circle from a piece of sandpaper. Now you have a piece of sandpaper that can fit right over the protruding boss.

Now put the two bolt-halves back together (over the sandpaper), and twist/turn until the faces are as polished as you desire.

Hope that helps.

 

[beb0541]

Nice job on the rifle!

 

[Blinks711]

Looks like you have inspired me to pull mine out of the safe a make a rainy weekend project out of it! Great work and an even better step by step!

 

[Wildog]

Looks great, here's what I did to the boring savage factory tupperware with a wood burner I use to stipple my guns.

 

[Wildog]

My Savage Mark 2 FVSR project...

Very nice! Here's what I did to my savage tupperware stock, using a wood burner.

 

[Wildog]

My Savage Mark 2 FVSR project...

Looks great! Here's what I did to my tupperware savage stock using a wood burner instead of going Marine-Tex texture. Added the Karsten Cheek Rest to fix the bad angle of the factory cheek rest. Picked up one of the blems cheap and was surprised couldn't even tell.

 

[JG26_Irish]

Lapping action.

Forgive me but, why are you doing all this? Was it to make the rifle shoot better? I am assuming it is since you posted the groups for us. Or was it to allow you to loosen the action up enough to allow the guncote to be sprayed on? The new finish looks great by the way. If accuracy was the goal, then how did it shoot before all the work? Plus none of the ammo you used is exactly known for tack driving accuracy. I always thought that for lapping to improve the accuracy, the parts needed to be so tight that they would barely fit and function and then lapped to make them function smoothly with just enough clearance to allow movement. I own two Savage rimfires and neither is what I would call a tight fit. In fact one of them will almost rattle if you shake it. They both shoot ok but if I lapped them, they would only be a looser fit. How is that helping?

Irish

 

[Ring]

The point of lapping is to smooth things out, just as I posted. The stock action is rough as sandpaper with the machine marks.

And I didn't run any match grade ammo through it because none of it exists within 100 miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Goatman007]

I put the Boyd's SS evolutions on my son's MK II, He and I love it!! Pepper laminate, Duracoated in German flecktarn grey..........Sharp!! I got another MK II for me as my Marlin 39TDS is worth close to 1K. That will stay on the rack from now on. Going to go with Richards thumbhole laminate in Irish moss with cooler green duracoat. Oughta be sweet!