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First time doing real load build up. Please critique my loads and tell me what to try.

slate84

slate84

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 6, 2010
192
1
38
Brookings SD
Just got back from my first range session to build up a round for my long range rig. Im still really new to the whole long range game but could you please read between the lines of what I should try next. I'm not completely disappointed but am not happy with the results for first time out. This isn't a bulls-eye gun but I'd love to shoot practical tactical out to 1200m someday. I've included the first 6 groups since as you can probably tell from the first 6 loads, 61.5 and 62 were all over and 62 actually pushed a primer out of the pocket and was beating my shoulder up a little and i was getting the flinch. It also was 90* out so sweet probably was an issue too.

The rounds were Hornady 208gr BTHP Match, 60-62gr, Rem. mag. primers, Winchester brass, seated to 2.9 oal. which i think is sitting right on the lands since I could feel minor pressure when closing the bolt. I need to get a chamber measuring tool and figure out where the bullets actually sitting.

I loaded 2-5rd groups for each charge of IMR-4350 @ 60, 60.5, 61, 61.5, and 62 gr. Loads where shot from 200m through my CEI pro Dig at ten feet ahead.

Rifle is Savage 10 in .300wsm, 26" McGowen #8 target crown, b&c medalist tactical stock, Swfa 5-20hd, LDSP suppressor. shot on Harris bi-pod with sandbags in back on Vietnam era sleeping bag prone.

60g
2737, 2732, 2726, 2749, 2715, 2760, 2737, 2754, 2766, 2754
au-2743, es-51, sd-16
60.5g
2760, 2772, 2754, 2749, 2754, 2766, 2737, 2743, 2772, 2749
au-2755, es-35, sd-11
61g
2777, 2789, 2772, 2783, 2777, 2777, 2777, 2766, 2801, 2795
au-2781, es-35, sd-10
61.5g
2801, 2789, 2807, 2789, 2795, 2801, 2807, 2795, 2818, 2807
au-2800, es-29, sd-9
62g
2861, 2830, 2830, 2842, 2849, 2849, 2842, 2812, 2830, 2830
au-2837, es-49, sd-13






Thanks for all the help.
 
How do those groups compare to grouos you can get from factory ammo?
 
Havent shot much factory out of it yet. But im thinking about getting the stoney point to and measure.
 
If you are pushing primers out of the case you have a problem .Maybe head space ? I think 4350 is a little fast for a magnum .I would go to 4831 to h1000 and try those slower powders .
 
I would get a box of good match ammo and see how your ammo compares to that. You should be able to get similar performance from your own ammo fairly easily.

The best load is rarely the most powerful and pushing primers is bad, so work your way down from 60 and see if your ammo improves.

Get someone else to shoot it also. Without comparison you don't know what the weak point is. It could be you, the gun, your ammo, or a combination. If another shooter gets 1/2 the group size you do then work on your skill. If factory match ammo performs better then work on your ammo.
 
Not much available for match 300wsm. Mostly just like fedral fusion for $45/20. Since I noticed (from imr's site) that my starting velocity was almost the same as their max load velocity and my accuracy deteriorated with the hotter loads, I might work a set from 57-60gr. Which should still keep me in the 27xx fps. I know it sounds dumb but it would be real nice to find a load with these componets since I bought them all in bulk since there impossible to find round my parts, if not, I guess ill have 700 amax .308 and 8lbs of imr-4350 for sale and be looking for some h1000 or something.
 
Thats the goal, ive been reloading for a while but this is my first real handloadind for more of a tactical rifle. All I really wanted is solid <1in groups. Its just about finding that unicorn I guess. Even on that 60g group you can see that theres potential just need to reel those two in with the rest and its a .5in gun. Remember those are shot at 200m.
 
slate the 60 gr doesn't look bad man, especially with you admitting to a flinch. Try that same load but use different brass. See if you can get your hands on Lapua. I think you are on a right track. Dont look at your rifle just yet, it might take some time to find a load. It took me well over 150 rounds of different recipes before I settled on a round. Again sense you are stuck with bullets/powder try better quality brass. Made a big difference for me.
Good luck man and dont get discouraged. I'm sure your rifle is fine, just need to work on the round development is all.
 
Can you expand on a few questions....

1.Is your stock bedded?
2.Is this new brass or fire formed brass?
3.Do you ns or fl size?
4.Is there land marks on your bullets?
5.Do you have a slower burning powder that you could try?
6.What primers are you using?
 
An OCW work up shot at 100m might be just what you need. Also, seat your bullets slightly deeper to get them off the lands. Find your charge weight then work on seating depth.

OFG
 
I do have a bag of 100 virgans at home that ill get loaded up tonight and try the 57-60 range, I have no problem buying different components but I waited for 2 1/2 months for those 208s the way it was. For some reason I still have that dumb thought of faster is better but say 2650-2700 208gr would still have decent 1200m ballistics correct? I know I need to walk before I run but just getting antsy to find that perfect load. I'd really like to ring an 18x24 at 1km before winter hits.
 
1. Full lenght alum bedding in stock but no glass.
2. 2-3 time full lenght.
3. FL
4. When I rack one yes there are "sight" land marks at the 2.900 lenght ive been loading at.
5. R19 is the only other suitable powder I have at the moment but id be willing to change if I cant make it work.
6. Remington 9 1/2m magnums.

Not familiar with OCW work up shot. please elaborate.
 
slate84 said:
1. Full lenght alum bedding in stock but no glass.
2. 2-3 time full lenght.
3. FL
4. When I rack one yes there are "sight" land marks at the 2.900 lenght ive been loading at.
5. R19 is the only other suitable powder I have at the moment but id be willing to change if I cant make it work.
6. Remington 9 1/2m magnums.

Not familiar with OCW work up shot. please elaborate.
Click to expand...

The marks on the bullets mean that they are at least touching the lands. Good for finding pressure limits, but not necessarily for finding the most accurate load. Maybe back off to 2.875".

Optimum Charge Weight by Dan Newberry. Lots of info on the net.

OFG
 
Interesting read. Can I get the opinion on NS vs FL sizing on this kind of shooting? I like the idea a fl every time so brass is always the same size vs having it get sticky in the chamber and resize every third to fourth time. Guess I dont have much experience on the area. Ive just always...

1. Tumbled
2. Deprimed/FL size
3. Meassured/trimmed case oal
4. Cleaned/debured pp inside and out.
5. Chamfered inside/outside neck
6. Steel wool polish neck.
7. Prime
8. Measure every load to .1 grain
9. Seated bullet.
 
Neck sizing is old school IMO.I use fl bushing dies on everything keeping shoulder bump to minimum.No problems with accuracy or brass life.

May want to look into annealing as well.
 
Last edited:
If all you can get is cheap factory ammo then its still a good reference point and worth the cost of a box of ammo.

Before you waste supplies chasing the unicorn figure out a realistic goal. This means finding out what your biggest limiting factor is: you, the gun, or the ammo. Then you can spend your time/money on things that will get you the biggest improvement.

I would work your way down from 60 with what you have since you have lots of components. Every time you start over you're wasting time/money. A match round in a decent rifle with decent shooter should do better than what you've posted.

Top priority should be to get someone else to shoot it and compare results to get an idea of how your skill is affecting the results.
 
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