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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Anyone know if the Kahles AMR is illuminated? I am favoring the AMR now over the H59 in the BEAST that I have preordered a millennium ago. I'm thinking about getting my deposit back since midway put 12/2 as ship date. I need this for the upcoming deer season. Is the Kahles due to ship any week now?
 
Here you go: http://blog.predatorbdu.com/2013/07/kahles-optic-dta-amr-scope.html

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I can't believe no one needs a gen 2 extension thought for sure it would fly off the for sale board

Typically it would, but the component shortage is really taking it's toll. People can't shoot. Competitions are even drying up. Hell I have had a barrel for sale for over a week now, and typically they sell after being on the board for an hour or so. Sucks, but until people can buy ammo and components, this is the way it will be.

Ty
 
so this may be a dumb question but the new dta guy has to ask it. Are their 2 different sizes of magazines for the srs?
 
so this may be a dumb question but the new dta guy has to ask it. Are their 2 different sizes of magazines for the srs?

I know of at least 2 different mags for the SRS. One works with the .338 lapua Mag and possible the 300 win mag while the other is for the .308 sized rounds like 6.5X47 Lapua, 260 Rem, 6.5 Creedmore, 338BR etc. There may be a different mag for some of the others or even for the win mag...not sure since I don't have one.

Frank
 
<del>Yep, if you look at the DTA site you'll see they list two mags for the SRS and two for the HTI.

</del>Oops, actually their site doesn't make a clear distinction between the mags.</del>
 
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Picked up my SRS today. After toying with it a little bit I got the trigger set to my liking. I am so anxious to use this thing I manipulated the bolt and dry fired countless times. Then I noticed some metal shavings, what looks like aluminum, laying in the area near the feed ramp. Upon further inspection it looks like they are coming from the lip that is on the left side of the feed ramp that runs along the inside of the mag well. It is kind of a sharp edge that makes contact with the bolt when cycled. Anyone else seen this? Will it take care of itself with some more break in? I just don't want any of it getting in the chamber or barrel when I take it out to fire.
 
First shooting my A1 I picked up from reximus 2 weeks ago. Wonderful balance and feel with 22" 308 and Vortex Razor HD 5-20 has great optics, turrets and tracking. Not to mention great value for the price and unbeatable warranty.

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#3 group 0.776 MOA. I'm sure I'll be able to improve that once I get used to this new rifle. Great balance and feel!!!
 
Any "old school" Gen1 owners want to trade your 300wm conversion for my 338L conversion? I'm also looking for a 308 conversion.
 
Do you guys know what size threads are on the factory 7wsm conversions from DTA?
 
Hi guys, New to the forums, getting my .308 SRS in a couple of weeks, i have tried to read this whole thread but it is taking some time. i have heard that the .308 bolt is the same as the 6.5x47 bolt and you only need to change the barrel to swap. can anyone confirm if that is true ?

thanks guys

Andrew.
 
3/4-24 can by turned down to 5/8-24 but why would you want to take a good thick muzzle end and weaken it making it less solid? If you have to use a mini suppressor with 5/8" threads use an adapter. I would open up my suppressor long before I'd cut a barrel down. If I had rifles I couldn't put proper threads on I'd make an adapter to fit the little barrel to the 3/4" suppressor thread. Bigger is better especially when it comes to this. There is a reason DT made the threads that big and its a good reason. Fit the can to the barrel not the other way round.....

All the 6.5's commonly done in short actions use the same case head diameter as the .308 so you can use the same bolt and mag for the 6.5X47 Lapua, 6.5 Creedmoor, 260 rem or any of the variations thereof. All you need to change is the barrel. The same can be said of any round based on the .308 case like the 7mm08, .243, .338BR and so on. You can also use your .338LM bolt for any round in the same case head diameter/cartridge length class. I use mine for .338LM and 12.7 X 48, a 510 whisper equivalent. Its one of the advantages of the DT platform, you can use just about any round that will fit the 3 bolts they make and the available mags. Some are using rounds that fit the bolt and won't use the mag even.....not sure if the WSM's are fitting mags yet or not but I know a couple guys shooting them along with the Rem Ultra Mags. Lots of choices and possibilities.

Just my opinions of course and you can do as you please.

Frank
 
The word from Nick has been that 10 round mags are in development, are a top user request and that they are taking their time to "get it right."
 
3/4-24 can by turned down to 5/8-24 but why would you want to take a good thick muzzle end and weaken it making it less solid?
I've heard this quite a lot but does anyone have first-hand knowledge of a material failure or perfomance degradation caused by 5/8-24 threading on a large magnum? I also don't understand the logic behind an adapter being safer than the straight 5/8 threading. The weak point is still the same in both cases. Honest questions. What am I missing?
 
I've heard this quite a lot but does anyone have first-hand knowledge of a material failure or perfomance degradation caused by 5/8-24 threading on a large magnum? I also don't understand the logic behind an adapter being safer than the straight 5/8 threading. The weak point is still the same in both cases. Honest questions. What am I missing?

Nothing, you are correct IMO, I use 5/8X24 on all my rifles because I use the same suppressors on several rigs. I even use 5/8X24 on my 338LM (338P) and have for years now without any issues, I even use my 338P on my 260DTA barrel, gained 25fps without any accuracy change. My suggestion is to talk to several of the good smiths on the hide and elsewhere then you will find the correct answer.
Sully
 
I've heard this quite a lot but does anyone have first-hand knowledge of a material failure or perfomance degradation caused by 5/8-24 threading on a large magnum? I also don't understand the logic behind an adapter being safer than the straight 5/8 threading. The weak point is still the same in both cases. Honest questions. What am I missing?

I don't think that adapters are a better idea at all. I think the larger thread diameter is a better idea and if you must use the tiny 5/8" threads than use an adapter rather than ruining a good barrel by chopping the larger threads down. What do you gain with the larger thread? You get a larger diameter to start with which will help stabilize the can by giving a greater distance between sides....larger diameter is stiffer and for the same thread the larger diameter will give you a greater contact area to retain the can. While I have seen a couple rifles with the threaded end broken off only one of them was a small caliber (308) and it was dropped from a tree with the can installed. The other was a 9mm Camp Carbine with 1/2-28 threads. Not a lot of steel between the thread root and the bore on that one.....
In any case its my opinion that the 3/4" thread is better and I have no backup to substantiate my claims other than I like it. You are free to use whatever you want and while I may seem to be gruff and grumbly most of the comments were meant as tongue in cheek. I do think the larger thread is better but guys do use smaller diameters for bigger rifles with good result. I won't do it on mine however.

Frank
 
biffj, thanks for your response. You didn't come off as gruff, at all. I totally agree that 3/4" is the ideal choice. I'm just genuinely curious if anyone has ever had an actual issue with the smaller threads.

I just had Mark at SAC spin me up a .338 LM barrel, and I went with the 5/8. I would have prefered the 3/4, but I wanted my 338P-1 to be compatible with my other, smaller calibered, rifles. I could have gone the adapter route or a 338BA, but this seemed like a simple solution with minimal risk. Mark agreed that, although not ideal, there was a high probability I wouldn't have any issues. If something does go awry, my sacrifice for the advancement of our common knowledge will immortalize me in SH lore. Tell LL to change my profile rank to "Martyr."

Thanks to you, as well, Sully. Very reassuring. Also, when my rifle does the cartoon banana peel thing, I can now tell everyone you talked me into it. ;)
 
Thank-you mate, now to find a place to sell me just the barrel lol


Amurray, I know Cleavers in Qld sells just the barrels without mags and bolts. Or just contact Aaron at Interdiction in Australia he can point you towards a dealer close by
 
If you search this thread about 4 months ago Russ said that the adapter will rob you of accuracy. He also stated that there is no problem with turning the barrel down to match your can so it wasn't as if he was saying that for you purchase a DTA can. I read this moments after I purchased the adapter once I found out It will be at least a year for me to have a DTA can. Ill sell ya mine. PM me.
 
If I have a choice between turning down to 5/8x24 or running an adapter... I'll turn it down. Adapters and stacking tolerances is never a good thing when dealing with something that must be concentric to a hole.
 
By that rationale wouldn't a muzzle brake that a suppressor threads on to be "stacking tolerances?" Correct me if I'm wrong but i thought the DTA suppressors thread on to a brake that threads on to the barrel. Is this different in some way than an adapter such as the Delta P? I am curious about this since I have a Covert with .308 conversion on the way and currently all my suppressors are threaded 5/8 24.



TV
 
By that rationale wouldn't a muzzle brake that a suppressor threads on to be "stacking tolerances?" Correct me if I'm wrong but i thought the DTA suppressors thread on to a brake that threads on to the barrel. Is this different in some way than an adapter such as the Delta P? I am curious about this since I have a Covert with .308 conversion on the way and currently all my suppressors are threaded 5/8 24.



TV

DTA's suppressor was designed to work with the muzzle brake, as well as the rest of the DtA system. you will not find a more accurate can to put on a DTA, nor will you find a more accurate DTA than one with a DTA suppressor attached to it. It's kind of like a camera's lens. There is several pieces of glass in there to make that image sharp and contrasty. Take one piece of glass out and you lose your clarity. Also... If you add a piece of glass, such as a teleconvertor, you still get an image, but it's not as sharp as the image without the teleconvertor.

I also have a 5/8 threaded can, but I ordered a DTA can as well. I bought a DTA for accuracy so there's no reason to compromise that accuracy by using attachments not made for the system.
 
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I rethreaded my 30P-1 from 5/8 to 3/4 just to fit my DTA. Not ideal for most people with multiple rifles, but I didn't plan to use that suppressor on any other rifle. I like my DTA that much.
 
DTA's suppressor was designed to work with the muzzle brake, as well as the rest of the DtA system. you will not find a more accurate can to put on a DTA, nor will you find a more accurate DTA than one with a DTA suppressor attached to it. It's kind of like a camera's lens. There is several pieces of glass in there to make that image sharp and contrasty. Take one piece of glass out and you lose your clarity. Also... If you add a piece of glass, such as a teleconvertor, you still get an image, but it's not as sharp as the image without the teleconvertor.

I also have a 5/8 threaded can, but I ordered a DTA can as well. I bought a DTA for accuracy so there's no reason to compromise that accuracy by using attachments not made for the system.

Thanks for the reply.....what I infer from your post is that, with the described DTA system, one is still "stacking tolerances" but since the parts were engineered to work with each other the tolerances are minimized (tighter) and their sum, being smaller than the sum of the tolerances in a system where the parts art not engineered to work specifically with one another, does not have as detrimental effect on accuracy. Makes sense....

Just to be the devil's advocate.....Taking the effect that any particular suppressor's baffle stack has on bullet flight out of the equation and just looking at tolerance stacking.....if one had a great machinist who could fabricate an adapter that would minimize the tolerances (between the adapter and the barrel as well as between the adapter and the suppressor....maybe even mimicking the tolerances of the DTA system) the same results could be achieved.

To concisely insert this thinking into your lens analogy....if the original lens was replaced with a lens of equal or better quality your may retain the same image sharpness or even achieve a sharper one....

I could be totally off base if I'm not understanding the concept of tolerance stacking...I am by no means an engineer.

I too am am planning on getting a DTA can. From what I've read they sound amazing.... short, light, and rated for .300WM in the .30 cal version (my current cans are not and I am planning on getting a .300wm conversion in the future, will most likely never go .338). Not to mention their looks are waaaay cool. I inquired with DTA and was told the wait would be waaaay long (not including ATF wait time) and in the interim I'm going to want to do some shootin' and I don't think I want to shoot that covert a whole lot without a can on it....lol...so an adapter is in my future.

I am very excited about the accuracy potential in this system, as well as it's compactness. I've never even seen one in person. I can't wait to get my hands on mine...




TV
 
I rethreaded my 30P-1 from 5/8 to 3/4 just to fit my DTA. Not ideal for most people with multiple rifles, but I didn't plan to use that suppressor on any other rifle. I like my DTA that much.

Can this be done on any can? I have an AAC cyclone that I could dedicate.


TV
 
I've threaded a number of suppressors for guys who didn't want to change their rifle barrel to fit a can. They wanted a can to fit their rifle. You would also have to take it on a case by case basis. Most suppressors don't have a solid .625" thick endcap on the rear to thread. They remove material from outside the threaded area to reduce weight so increasing the thread diameter may cut into this area and reduce the length of the thread to a marginal number. I don't know about AAC products since I don't deal with them and most of my customers don't either. You'll just have to check with someone who has some experience with their cans and see if it can be done safely and effectively.

Frank
 
A TBAC 338BA suppressor with their 3/4X24 threaded muzzle brakes would allow one suppressor to be easily used on all the SRS barrel conversions, usually with slight POI shift, but with improved accuracy per Zak and Ray from TBAC. These guys are both very responsive to questions and know what they're talking about !