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LC Brass sorting???

maggitas

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 6, 2007
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South Georgia
Hello all,

I am about to purchase some Lake City 5.56 once fired brass to reload some MK 262 clone ammo. My question is do you have to sort the brass by year or is all Lake city Nato brass fairly uniform in case capacity?
 
I am considering using LC brass in lue of the scarcity of Winchester 308 brass. Is it comparable to Winchester for quality, durability, accuracy, etc?
 
I am considering using LC brass in lue of the scarcity of Winchester 308 brass. Is it comparable to Winchester for quality, durability, accuracy, etc?

I know your pain. I recently got lucky and purchased new Winchester 308 brass and hated paying the price (.47 per piece?) so I'm also hunting for once fired. Has this brass always been hard to find or is it "just the times of now".
 
Lake City 5.56 brass is made to higher quality standards than commercial .223 cases, that being said sorting, weighing or measuring the internal case capacity in grain of H2O depends on the type shooting you are doing. It also depends on if your loading at or near maximum loads and using mixed brass with unequal case volume.

I have three five gallon buckets of once fired 5.56/.223 brass consisting of Lake City, Federal and Remington brass. For 100 yards or less practice AR ammunition I just sort by maker, for my bolt action .223 and the utmost accuracy I use one make of case and sort by weight and uniform the cases.

I'm retired and have chronological gifted eyesight and drink too much coffee so your mileage and accuracy may vary. Many say that at 100 yards or less sorting shows no difference in accuracy in a normal AR. I have brass OCD and sort my cases by type/brand but your rifle will tell you what it likes, but just be careful with mixed brass and max loads.

Below are the weight variations between the same lot/brand of 5.56/.223 cases and their internal volume.

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casecap_zps3f8bb2c9.jpg


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hardness-a_zps8d54ad66.jpg
 
I am certainly no authority nor expert, but if it were me it would be at least sorted by year.
I would also be looking for signs of it coming from an auto fire situation.
My experiences with LC brass have been good.
It is usually a little thicker walled and therefore has less case volume so start low and watch for pressure.
I have used it for many years and will use it again if I find it.
Hope that helps and maybe the smarter members will chime in.
Regards, FM
 
You say you want to sort LC brass? I got some that needs sorting:D
 
I had a lake city case in 30-06 let go on me in my 03A3 it partially separated just at the web on the inside but on the outside the opening was farther to the rear near the groove for the extractor . I only neck size and checked all the others I had fired that day and they were ok .I got a blast of gas on my right cheek but that's all . Didn't frost my glasses and didn't burn me . There is a guy some where from Sweden selling once fired Norma 308 brass at a pretty good price . I saw his add on either gunboards or cal guns . Arnie
 
when buying lake city brass I try to get it all one year, or a vast majority in one year... yes, for best precision possible I sort all of my lake city by year / headstamp... some of my best groups have been from this brass.


Hello all,

I am about to purchase some Lake City 5.56 once fired brass to reload some MK 262 clone ammo. My question is do you have to sort the brass by year or is all Lake city Nato brass fairly uniform in case capacity?
 
You say you want to sort LC brass? I got some that needs sorting:D

Don't know why, I think of Jaws when I look at your pic "We're gonna need a bigger swage". Roughly, how many pounds is that? Did you win that at a military auction?
 
Roughly, how many pounds is that? Did you win that at a military auction?

1500lbs. No didnt win at a military auction, paid a little more, but its pre-sorted. I might some day do the .mil auction stuff, but from what I found out its not that great and you get maybe 1/2 to 2/3 of usable brass in weight of what you actually buy and it takes you a month to sort all the rocks, split necks, crushed cases, blanks, etc... out of it. This stuff is supposed to be(the seller wouldnt guarantee it) about 90%+ LC(I have processed 12k so far and seen nothing but LC) with no blanks(seen none so far) and only had one crushed mangled case. So its worth the extra cost to me to not have to spend a month sorting and throwing away a thousand+ lbs of garbage.
 
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1500lbs. No didnt win at a military auction, paid a little more, but its pre-sorted. I might some day do the .mil auction stuff, but from what I found out its not that great and you get maybe 1/2 to 2/3 of usable brass in weight of what you actually buy and it takes you a month to sort all the rocks, split necks, crushed cases, blanks, etc... out of it. This stuff is supposed to be(the seller wouldnt guarantee it) about 90%+ LC(I have processed 12k so far and seen nothing but LC) with no blanks(seen none so far) and only had one crushed mangled case. So its worth the extra cost to me to not have to spend a month sorting and throwing away a thousand+ lbs of garbage.

Wow, that's about 105,000 cases, Wow! Sorry to hijack a thread, but how are you processing such quantity?
 
Wow, that's about 105,000 cases, Wow! Sorry to hijack a thread, but how are you processing such quantity?

its actually all for 300BLK conversion. Process on a 1050 with an auto drive.
 
I am certainly no authority nor expert, but if it were me it would be at least sorted by year.
I would also be looking for signs of it coming from an auto fire situation.
My experiences with LC brass have been good.
It is usually a little thicker walled and therefore has less case volume so start low and watch for pressure.
I have used it for many years and will use it again if I find it.
Hope that helps and maybe the smarter members will chime in.
Regards, FM

After going through the "sorting of LC brass by year" stage, I bought 100 Lapua cases and found that they had too low of a capacity for what I was aiming for (MK 262) at the time. I had been achieving MK 262 velocities (2850 in my understanding) with assorted LC brass with 26.2gn Varget. That is at the extreme high edge and I was getting all kinds of pressure signs. I bought 100 Lapua cases ($68 at the time) and found that 26.2 gn of Varget did not even fit in a Lapua case. I gradually gravitated to accuracy loading and forgot about MK262. The extreme loading was worrying me as I was getting blown and cratered primers, losing the writing on the headstamp, and even some slight bulging of the case above the head.

I purchased 1000 virgin LC11 cases and have not looked back. They require a lot of work to prepare. I trimmed the flashhole, normalized the primer pockets, trimmed to length, skimmed the necks (nowhere near even thickness. I cannot remember the numbers, but I only skimmed so that it was even for the majority of the circumference.) Chamfered and deburred the necks. After all that work, I'm not sure it was a good idea to scrimp on the cost of the raw case. I would probably put the same amount of work into a Lapua case, but I figure that I put about $1.35 of labor into each case, so why worry about saving $0.30 to $0.40/case on the front end. The Lapua will most likely last longer and the walls will probably be more consistent in thickness.

I am only on my third cycle of the 1000 LC11 cases and my first annealing, so I have not experienced any problems yet, nor have I decided on re-skimming the necks, or even checking on the need to do so. It makes sens to me that if the wall thickness is uneven, as the brass flows into the necks, thus resulting in the need to trim the case, that the necks will grow proportionally to the wall thicknessn necessitating re-skimming. That may be another place that the Lapua would save me time.

As for relative thickness of brass: the 1000 5.56 LC11 cases, after being fully prepped, range in weight between 90.9gn and 93.1gn with my Chargemaster scale. I have not resorted them since getting my Sartorius GD503 magnetic force restoration scale. The 100 .223 Lapua brass range between 96.3gn and 97.2gn. Now that I am annealing my LC11 brass every shot, I am hoping to get 10 more shootings out of them, which depending on how much I compete, should last me 5 years. Next time, I plan on biting the bullet and trying Lapua (over $700/1000 the last time I checked). I am happy with the performance of my LC11 brass, just curious as to whether a better case will provide results downrange. (I don't currently have enough Lapua brass with 100 to sort them into batches large enough to get consistent case volumes.)
 
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I shoot LC LR brass exclusively out of my 7.62 OBR. I no longer sort by year. While not necessarily an indication of how your 5.56 would perform, I get <.75 MOA accuracy when skipping this step. My load is 44.4 of Varget, so I am not really pushing pressure limits (went a bit over 45 before signs began to appear), so slight variations in capacity don't really have me worried from a safety perspective. Again, I can't really speak to the 5.56, but I've found this brass to be tough as heck, and the OBR isn't too easy on it.
 
"the 1000 5.56 LC11 cases, after being fully prepped, range in weight between 90.9gn and 93.1gn"

I find all years/ headstamps of LC go about 85% into 92.0 - 92.9 sorting this way will get rid of the worst oddballs and the scale readout is much easier to see than the headstamp

if you only check the year there can still be a few oddballs

the low variation through the years suggests the specs/ manufacturing process has not changed - so mixing years is not much of an issue

kind of off the subject, but the greatest variation I have found is .308 hornady match - goes from 150 to 175 gr and pretty much hits all points in between - really makes me wonder WTF is going on in that plant and how they manage to still make good ammo with that brass
 
I shoot LC LR brass exclusively out of my 7.62 OBR. I no longer sort by year. While not necessarily an indication of how your 5.56 would perform, I get <.75 MOA accuracy when skipping this step. My load is 44.4 of Varget, so I am not really pushing pressure limits (went a bit over 45 before signs began to appear), so slight variations in capacity don't really have me worried from a safety perspective. Again, I can't really speak to the 5.56, but I've found this brass to be tough as heck, and the OBR isn't too easy on it.
I'm shooting a 5.56 OBR w/ 20" barrel. I'm not a great shot yet, but a friend of my son shot it with my handmade ammo and his first five shots grouped at .72" at 200yd (.36 MOA)
 
when buying lake city brass I try to get it all one year, or a vast majority in one year... yes, for best precision possible I sort all of my lake city by year / headstamp... some of my best groups have been from this brass.

Same here. And it's not unusual for a barrel to show preference for a particular year.
 
Same here. And it's not unusual for a barrel to show preference for a particular year.
That's interesting. I sort my LC brass into .1gn groups, but I never would have guessed that different years shoot differently. Why do you think that is, inconsistency in the hardness of the brass? In any event, I eliminated that as a variable in my competition stuff by getting 1000 virgin LC11 cases. I'm on my third firing and just bought a great case annealer I have been wanting for a few years. New Page 1 Hopefully that will extend their life by many firings. On the other hand, I have read several posts here by guys who anneal every time for accuracy.