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Rifle Scopes 200 yard zero?

30calDeath

30calDeath

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 23, 2010
1,204
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North Idaho
Sunday I took my AR10 out to try and zero my scope. With the 20moa mount and the Leupold mk6 3-18 trying to zero at 100 yards was a joke. I was looking in the dirt way before the target so after trying a bunch of different things we decided that maybe a 200 yard zero would be better. I was ok with this because I will be using my T1 from close to 100-200 yards and the mk6 3-18x from there on out. We got on target a bunch of times but I am not sure that today was all that much of a success. The best I could do was when aiming at the target stand at the very bottom of the target backing (cardboard being held onto pvc frame) was then hit pretty close to the bullseye or near it.
I am starting to think that maybe a 225 yard zero would be better but that wasnt to happen today since it was A. the weekend and the range was only open to about 200 yards and B. I was running out of ammo.

I know I am a newbie when it comes to setting up a high mag scope but doing this all alone can be a PITA! At times it seems like I was running out of elevation travel, but now that I think about it I just think that I was wayyyy too close in my initial zero.
So basically what I am asking is trying to sight in a scope with a 20moa cant built into the mount is 225 yards a good idea?
In a week I am going out with a buddy and he is really going to help me dial my setup in but for the time being maybe someone knows what I am doing wrong/right.
 
That scope should be able to zero at 100 yards with all the elevation it has. Remove the upper, and bore sight it on some sand bags....
 
I did remove the upper first and had no luck with that. Maybe I am a dumbass but I thought for sure we could get it bore sighted in at 100 but couldnt.
 
Your upper receiver doesn't have 20moa cant does it?
Nice rifle!! Didn't see a canted rail option. If every thing is seated correctly, rail to receiver, mount to rail, you got a real mystery there... 20moa is nothing to make up with a scope with 100moa adjustability. Your scope have zero stops your up against?
 
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It's not entirely clear from your description of the problem, Sergeant, but you're saying you've already run out of reticle elevation @ 200? Yes? Then it would seem that you need to flip the 20MOA rail around.
 
jdgray said:
Your upper receiver doesn't have 20moa cant does it?
Nice rifle!! Didn't see a canted rail option. If every thing is seated correctly, rail to receiver, mount to rail, you got a real mystery there... 20moa is nothing to make up with a scope with 100moa adjustability.
Click to expand...

Im almost positive it doesnt. I had a 0moa Spuhr mount on before with a Vortex 1-6x ill find out if LWRC builds cant into their rail. And I cant turn the mount around it only goes one way and its mounted correctly 100% I am sure
 
jdgray said:
Your upper receiver doesn't have 20moa cant does it?
Nice rifle!! Didn't see a canted rail option. If every thing is seated correctly, rail to receiver, mount to rail, you got a real mystery there... 20moa is nothing to make up with a scope with 100moa adjustability. Your scope have zero stops your up against?
Click to expand...

It does have zero stops. Not sure if they are engaged or not. Not even quite sure what ZS even do. The scope is set in the middle of its elevation travel and has 50 clicks up and down in both directions. So I would imagine the ZS are not engaged.
 
50 clicks in either direction is a total of 10 mils travel. Check the zero stop, read the instructions on how to disengage it.

You should have 29-ish mils from top to bottom total elevation adjustment.

The zero stop stops you from traveling very far "down" from where the stop is set so you don't get lost in the turrets. If you forget which rev you're on you just dial all the way back down to the stop and start over.
 
here's another angle to debunk this mystery. Where did you buy the Leupold, and are you sure its a real one? I don't know specifically about that scope but there for a while they were having problems with knock-offs built outside of the Leupold realm. If you're not sure, call Leupold and give them the serial number. Hope you figure it out
 
Assuming you have the mount and scope mounted properly I would take the upper off and bore site it at 25 yards. It is very easy at that range. Make sure your scope adjustment is centered (50 clicks up and dow) and shoot about 1" low @ 25 yards. That should put you on pap are @ 100 yards. I have a NightForce NXSin 8-32X56 in a 20 moa AI mount and had no trouble zeroing it at 100 yards.
 
30calDeath said:
So basically what I am asking is trying to sight in a scope with a 20moa cant built into the mount is 225 yards a good idea?
Click to expand...

Well if you are not going to be using the rifle under 200 yds. or so it might make sense but in general you probably want to be able to be on target much closer. If you have to hold under so much that you are aiming "at the dirt" at 100 yds. it probably wouldn't make for a very effective platform. I don't know the other details of your setup but if everything else is correct you just have too much cant in your base.
 
If you can't get it bore sighted, you won't get it on the paper.

If the scope points that far low (aiming at the bottom of the backing to hit center) at 200, something is seriously wrong.
 
I have run out of elevation with a Sightron SII and a 20MOA base. In theory I should have had a good 10MOA to play with, but even jammed all the way, I was still about a minute and a half short. That said, your scope *should* have plenty of room. You need to figure out what's wrong, because the difference between 100 and 225 isn't going to help you much. Either your scope is jacked, or your mounting setup is wrong. A picture would help.
 
RyeDaddy said:
50 clicks in either direction is a total of 10 mils travel. Check the zero stop, read the instructions on how to disengage it.

You should have 29-ish mils from top to bottom total elevation adjustment.

The zero stop stops you from traveling very far "down" from where the stop is set so you don't get lost in the turrets. If you forget which rev you're on you just dial all the way back down to the stop and start over.
Click to expand...

This ^^^^ your zero stop is engaged, read the instructions or even call Leupold and ask how to disengage/bypass your zero stop.
 
BobinNC said:
This ^^^^ your zero stop is engaged, read the instructions or even call Leupold and ask how to disengage/bypass your zero stop.
Click to expand...

Im pretty sure I reset it already. From the factory the reticle is centered, I can go up 50moa or down 50moa for a total of 100moa of adjustments. Does this sound like my ZS are in fact engaged?
 
RyeDaddy said:
50 clicks in either direction is a total of 10 mils travel. Check the zero stop, read the instructions on how to disengage it.

You should have 29-ish mils from top to bottom total elevation adjustment.

The zero stop stops you from traveling very far "down" from where the stop is set so you don't get lost in the turrets. If you forget which rev you're on you just dial all the way back down to the stop and start over.
Click to expand...

I have 100 moa total adjustment. Bottomed out to the top is 100 clicks of the elevation knob. 100moa is 29 mils.
 
0311 Hesco said:
here's another angle to debunk this mystery. Where did you buy the Leupold, and are you sure its a real one? I don't know specifically about that scope but there for a while they were having problems with knock-offs built outside of the Leupold realm. If you're not sure, call Leupold and give them the serial number. Hope you figure it out
Click to expand...

I just called Leupold and it is indeed a genuine Leupold product.
 
30calDeath said:
Im pretty sure I reset it already. From the factory the reticle is centered, I can go up 50moa or down 50moa for a total of 100moa of adjustments. Does this sound like my ZS are in fact engaged?
Click to expand...

Your scope adjusts in MILS....not MOA. One revolution is 10 mils or 100 clicks, each click being 1/10th of a MIL. If your counting clicks 50 clicks up and 50 clicks down that's only 10 MILS not 100 MOA. Your turret is the M5B2 and it has 28 MILS of total adjustment or 280 total clicks. Your zero stop is engaged and is in fact always engaged on this model. Read your instructions in the Tactical Scope Manual for your turret model M5B2. Or call Leupold and ask how to bypass the zero stop to set your zero.
 
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BobinNC said:
Your scope adjusts in MILS....not MOA. One revolution is 10 mils or 100 clicks, each click being 1/10th of a MIL. If your counting clicks 50 clicks up and 50 clicks down that's only 10 MILS not 100 MOA. Your turret is the M5B2 and it has 28 MILS of total adjustment or 280 total clicks. Your zero stop is engaged and is in fact always engaged on this model. Read your instructions in the Tactical Scope Manual for your turret model M5B2. Or call Leupold and ask how to bypass the zero stop to set your zero.
Click to expand...

I am going to call Leupold right now. If it does indeed have 280 clicks then yes mine is not exhibiting that at all and I wasted a lot of ammo for not much. Oh well live and learn.
 
Riiiiiight... So slow down and think for a minute.

If you have a scope that every click equals 0.1 mils, and you can adjust it 100 total clicks how much adjustment do you have?
Here's a hint: stop thinking in MOA altogether.

I'm trying to help, not bust your balls.
 
BobinNC said:
No, you have 100 clicks between the zero stops...
Click to expand...

Bingo! I think this was what the problem was the entire time. 100 clicks between the ZS.

RyeDaddy said:
Riiiiiight... So slow down and think for a minute.

If you have a scope that every click equals 0.1 mils, and you can adjust it 100 total clicks how much adjustment do you have?
Here's a hint: stop thinking in MOA altogether.

I'm trying to help, not bust your balls.
Click to expand...

I know you are trying to help, at this point you could be busting my balls and if it solved the problem I would be thanking you! lol.
I just got off the phone with the Leupold tech guy and what he told me and what BobinNC said made perfect sense. I cant test this till I get to the range either this weekend or on Tuesday with a buddy of mine.
Thanks all for the help so far much appreciated!
 
You should now be able to sand bag the upper, and bore sight it:)
Sounds like a top notch rig! Let us know how it shoots....
 
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If you didn't open the link. Here you go

"To reset the zero stop you have to first zero the rifle. If you have to zero "below" your stop you must loosen the allen screw and dial elevation "UP" to a detent and re-tighten the set screw to give you more elevation "DOWN". Repeat until you can get a zero. Now to set your ZS after zeroing you need to figure out where you want your stop to be at "1 mil below or dead on". To set it 1 mil low you must have your POI 1 mil low at your given zeroing distance. The ZS gives you 20 mils of total elevation after resetting or 19 mils if you have set it 1 mil below. After zeroing you must then loosen the set screw and dial elevation "DOWN" until you hit the ZS. Once the stop is reached you can re-tighten the turret and check your "zero". The windage turret is simple being you loosen the set screw and slide the dial to "zero". No rocket science or voodoo majic is needed to adjust this turret thank GOD!"
 
Went back to the range again today after going last week and I have the gun zeroed. I was easily making hits out to 500 yards with the H58 reticle. I am pretty happy, thanks Hide for all your help!
 
Doesnt the REPR come with a built in 20 MOA rail?
I honestly cant remember. Got mine so long ago i forget whats on it!
 
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