There are several threads in this forum debating the right way to go. I'll provide you some perspective on advise you bound to get more of and that you've already received:
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One camp says that it's first important to concentrate on the fundamentals and to get as much trigger time as possible. The way to do that is by getting a low cost rig, make a couple of high benefit upgrades (e.g., a new trigger). Top the rifle with a scope that gets you in the game (like the 5-15 Vortex midway special or a 4-16 Nikon Monarch), spend the minimum on accessories upfront and spend the rest of the money on ammo, or, even better, learning to reload.
The other camp says shooting is supposed to be fun and, if you know you're into it big time, might as well dive in with both feet first. Getting a $3K+ custom rifle and a $2K+ scope does it right the first time (hence the cliche, buy once cry once). And yes, you need to factor an additional $1K for reloading equipment and components as well. Although you have to put a big pile of dough up front, you have the gear that will get the job done even if your skills aren't the best. This approach, so they say, allows you to see your improvement most clearly because the rifle shoots better than you can. In other words, it takes the argument out of "did I pull that shot because my rifle has too much trigger creep, or a lemon barrel, or too fat a reticle," and places it the blame on your skill as a marksman alone.
I asked what your budget is, because you can't even consider camp 2 unless your willing to pony up a large chunk of change.
Speaking from camp one, I advise the following to you:
Get yourself something like a Rem 700 AAC-SD, a Savage 12 LRP, or a Rem 700 5R. Take a look at John McQuay's video on building the "budget precision rifle" (he goes by [MENTION=14648]LoneWolfUSMC[/MENTION] here on sniper's hide). When you get money, upgrade the trigger, the scope, then the stock (in that order). An intermediate option is to get a Rem 5R and stick it in a XLR, AICS, or McRee chassis system and call it good. For a scope, I say get a Vortex 6-24 PST.
Speaking from camp 2, there are two and 1/2 options to go. One is to get a high end factory rifle. The advantage there is that you are getting a known quantity complete with life cycle support and a large knowledge base (e.g., Sako TRG, AIAX, DTA). Be prepared to drop big money though. The "1/2" would be getting something that is "nearly" factory, such as a build from Surgeon Rifles, a Terry Cross Sentinel, or something like a GAP Crusader or GAP Thunder Ranch. These rifles, while exceptional and built with uncompromising guarantees, have a more "niche market" support structure than an AI; some would also say that their design is not as "proven."
A common suggestion given to new shooters in this forum is to save your nickels and buy a used DTA, AI, GAP or Surgeon rifle. This gives you a known shooter without paying top dollar. The downside is that you are probably not going to get exactly what you want.
The third option is to collect the parts to your specs, researching as you go, and send the parts off to a builder for assembly. You become "the integrator" of your weapon system. This method is cheaper, but also tedious, time consuming, and it requires detailed knowledge of all the parts. You also have to know what parts are hard to get (e.g., long lead time) and plan accordingly...it may require you to slightly compromise your specs. Also, life can happen while putting together your dream build and you'll never get around to putting it together.
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Now, to your build.
It's clear from your specs that a non-magnum target rifle is what you want. I say this because you're not hunting with it and you didn't express any goals of need to shoot with authority over 1K yds. Since you expressed interest in reloading, that opens up more caliber selections to you. Here's my advise: If you want to shoot paper, and it will primarily be 500-600 yds or less, it's hard to beat a 223 because (1) it's cheap to shoot (including excellent barrel life), (2) still has a loud bang, (3) practically no recoil, (4) is great for punching paper or hitting steel at these ranges, and (5) there is a large knowledge/resource base. That's the caliber I use ~ 90% of the time. My wife, though, says it's a pussy rifle. Since this is a forum devoted to taking long range shots from challenging positions, you will see many advocates for a 6 or 6.5mm caliber. These are great because you can shoot large BC bullets without using a magnum case, which keeps you from fighting wind and offers straight trajectories. The downside is that your high speed rig will not get as many miles on it before you need to swap out the barrel, and the components are more costly. The bottom line is that start with your requirement and work backwards from there to get to caliber. If you get a 260 Rem or a 6.5 SAUM because that's what all the cool kids on here have, you will spend a pile of dough shooting it and it won't really offer any advantage to you if you're limited to a range of 400-500 yds; you need to be honest with yourself here.
Unless you're thinking of going with a 284 Win or a 30-06, get a short action. Since you don't have a Remington take off receiver, look at Defiance (esp the v2 "Deviant"), Big Horn, or Stiller (Surgeon actions are pretty much unobtanium at the moment) because they offer a better value if you don't already have a factory Remington Receiver. All of the custom actions I listed here follow a Rem 700 foot print because they are easiest to integrate with other rifle components. There are many other options if you're willing to constrain other aspects of your build.
Bartlein, Brux, Broughton, Rock Creek, and Krieger all make great barrels. When looking at match grade barrels, focus more on the twist and the contour rather than brand. The twist you get depends on the caliber of rifle you select. For contour, you probably want a med palma or M40 contour. If you're willing to go heavy, then heavy varmint or MTU. The benefit of a heavy barrel is that you can shoot many strings before barrel temp starts affecting your POI; the downside is that you have to haul a heavy pig.
You need a good trigger. Look at Timney, Huber, Rifle Basix, and tuned Remingtons. I have a Jewell, which are really nice triggers, but I have to be careful and maintain it. A pull weight of 2-2.5# is about right with no creep and a clean break.
For a "more traditional" type stock, you probably want a McMillan A5, McMillan A3, a McMillan A3-5 (all with the adjustable hand wheel cheek piece), or a Manners T4A or T6A. Get them inletted for the action and barrel contour your pick as well as your choice of bottom metal.
For bottom metal there are several good choices. Badger M5, APA, and Surgeon are all top tier. PTG, Seekins, and CDI make good sets too. The primary feature is that you want them to accept AICS style magazines (this includes Alpha and Accurate Mag).
For optics, I would suggest either the Vortex Razor, the Bushnell Elite Tactical, or the SWFA HD. If you're willing to pay top dollar for top quality, then either a 5-25 Steiner or S&B PMII. Some really like Nightforce. I don't because you get more features with the other offerings.
You need someone to put all of this together. I suggest the following builders:
- Robert Gradous
- GAP
- Crescent Customs
- Beanland Custom Rifles
- RW Snyder Gunsmithing
- Spartan Rifles
- Short Action Customs
- Phoenix Custom Rifles
There are lots of details that I didn't get into with each component I discussed. I only hit the high points. Read through the forums, research the rifle builders' sites, and investigate anything you don't understand.
BTW, you'll need to do this all over for getting a reloading set up.
Good luck.
But I can keep shooting while I decide and get things together.
