• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

leadoff_dtamount.jpg


Desert Tech? Who the heck is that? Well you all know Desert Tactical Arms (DTA). Apparently they were having trouble with exports and government agencies that did not like the name on the forms they were approving. "Tactical" is apparently one of those "scary words" that send liberals screaming for the hills with fear in their eyes. DTA decided to give in to the continued liberalization of the planet and change their name. So after spending the last 5 years talking about Desert Tactical Arms or DTA... we are suppose to talk about Desert Tech now instead. Same company, same products, new name. Confusing for the end user, and a pain in the ass for everyone else. So, in the future, DTA is now DT or Deserttech, ... or something. Now we've got that out of the way, lets get on with the review!

Today we're looking at the 1-piece scope mount from Desert Tech. There have been several revisions of these mounts over the last year. Originally DTA offered two different mounts. One for the SRS, which was a 4-screw ring design, and one for the HTI which was a 6-screw ring design. In an effort to streamline production, they elected to eliminate the SRS design and only offer the HTI version, which is now referred to as the Desert Tech Scope Mount.

Price: $370
Height: 1.5"
Tube Diameter: 34mm (with optional 30mm aluminum inserts)
MOA Slope: 20, 30, or 40 MOA
Material: 7075 T6 Aircraft-Grade Aluminum

IMG_7851.jpg


As you can see, this mount is very robust. It was designed to tame the most abusive recoil the 50BMG can dish out. The 6-screw ring design has more surface area which ensures a very solid mating between the optic and the mount. The 1.5" height ensures that large optics typically found on long range rifles will clear a monolithic picatinny rail such as is found on DTA rifles. Even with a 40MOA slope, this mount will allow you to run an ARD or sunshade on a Premier 5-25x56 or similarly sized optic, while still maintaining clearance from the pic rail.

IMG_7852.jpg


Here's a look at the top of the mount. The six cap screws are 2.5mm interface, and provide ample torque to give a good clamp on the scope tube. The ring size is engraved, so you won't forget.

IMG_7853.jpg


From the side view, you'll see some more indicative engraving to ensure you never forget what size and slope your mount is. The front ring has a directional arrow which indicates the direction of slope, that way you don't put it on backwards. The pic rail clamps are quite large, providing a huge amount of clamping surface. The cap screws use a 5mm interface and can be torqued 70-80in/lbs. Both the SRS and HTI rifle barrel screws are 5mm, and are torqued to 70 and 80in/lbs, respectively. Desert Tech has no published specs that I'm aware of for this mount, so I grabbed a caliper and took some measurements. You'll see those readings in the pictures where applicable.

IMG_7854.jpg


The rear of the mount has an integral bubble level. This is a very cool feature to help you eliminate canting your rifle. There are bubble levels that clamp onto your scope tube or your picatinny rail, but they generally stick out and get caught on things. The style that clamps on the scope tube almost always gets in the way of your turrets, and can create a knuckle-buster. The integral level is where it's at! If you take a closer look, you can certainly tell the attention to detail that went into the design of the mount.

IMG_7855.jpg


On the opposite side, they knocked out a couple healthy chunks of material to lighten things up a bit. Notice the foresight to open up the area behind the bubble level. This will let some ambient light through and let you see the level in darker conditions than you would if it were sealed.

IMG_7856.jpg


On the bottom, two individual lugs to interface with the pic rail. There are also some more areas machined out to save some weight without losing any structural integrity.

IMG_7857.jpg


Behind the rear pic rail clamp, the bubble level is epoxied in place to ensure that it will not get to wiggling around in there.

These mounts have been working outstandingly well on every application we've used them on thus far. There are a few left in stock, and we'll have a healthy supply of them by the end of January.
 
Haha, Tactical reminds me of John Deere combine, in the states the rotor is called a "bullet" rotor, it was even printed on the Combine. In the export model it was something else because "Bullet" did sell.
 
Looks like they forgot to change the name on the mount...ha ha. Looks like the Spuhr mount with the level in all in which I prefer but I do like the reducer rings and the spacing between the rings for those who run the USO's
 
Orkan,
Thanks for the scope ring review, most people thought the HTI rings were heavier than the original SRS rings but they weighed the same because of the lightening features on the HTI rings, so with one base you now have a very light weight ring with a much better clamping interface that is 50 BMG rated.

As far as the rings still saying DTA, it will take a bit of time to transition all of our packaging and product labels over to the new name so for the next while there will still be a lot of product coming out with DTA labels on them. :)

Our country has supported us with whatever name we chose to have and we are lucky to have the rights our fore-fathers granted to us. It is very unfortunate that in most other countries gun ownership is not a right and people who own firearms are forced to hide that fact because they will be highly discriminated against. We want to be a global friendly company and we are also are highly infatuated with developing new technologies and it was a name that preserved our original Desert theme and combined it with our technology vision as well as allowed us to be a global friendly company.
 
Orkan,
Thanks for the scope ring review, most people thought the HTI rings were heavier than the original SRS rings but they weighed the same because of the lightening features on the HTI rings, so with one base you now have a very light weight ring with a much better clamping interface that is 50 BMG rated.
Pretty much says it! I love the mount.

I've had a couple customer requests for an optional ring top with an integral ACI mount which will accept something like a sniper tools ACI. Anything like that being worked on?
 
WaltHer, great pics of the EI bipod, probably the best I've seen. I'm still not clear on how it attaches to the HTI rail, though, can you provide more detail?

I'm anxiously awaiting information on the heavy duty Atlas before deciding which to buy.

This picture gives the best illustration of the EI Revolution mounting system:



The light grey piece with the two allen head screws showing is the rifle to bipod interface. It slides onto the 6 o'clock pic rail and secures into the 1913 channel with the two screws you can see in the picture (I didn't have it locked on when I took this picture). The interface is welded to the rear of the body of the bipod. The revolving part of the bipod then slips onto the main-body, and the knurled part, closest to the muzzle is essentially a large nut holding the revolving part of the bipod to the main body. From when I took this picture, I had to move the 3/9 o'clock pic rails back one notch so that the thicker part of the leg, at the hinge-point, would clear the pic rails when folding the legs towards the butt of the rifle. Conversely, I could have moved the bipod interface towards the muzzle one or two notches and accomplished the same thing. There were no complications when folding the legs to the muzzle, and even with the legs folded forward, evwerything fit in the HTI soft case just fine. YMMV of course. If you are thinking of one, I really suggest calling Dale or Kathy Poling at EI to discuss your needs. With the variety of rifles/handguard/barrel heights out there the Revolution is not necessarily a "one size fits all" solution. It did fit fine on my SRS and LMT .308. the bipod is very robust, and supports the weight of the HTI just fine! There is very little flex in the system when "loading" the bipod, unlike the Harris/Larue setup I was getting by with. The feet have (so far) gripped extremely well on gravel and snow. I have some reservations about their grip on very hard surfaces like concrete, but have not gotten to check them out. Hope this helps you.
 
Last edited:
BTW,

Been put in notice by my 13 yr old that he will be "needing one of those dad" after our last trip to the range. That frikkin' boogerhead was ringing the 3" steel at 500 yds. That was a first round hit and his very first time behind the rifle. My reply was, "there is plenty of grass to mow son."

Thanks DTA/Desert Tech for keeping me in the poorhouse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
WaltHer, thanks for the explanation. I wasn't sure if the side rails came into play.

Do you feel that the weld where the interface meets the bipod body will hold up under repeated heavy loading? That looks like it could be a potential point of failure.

I'm anxious to see what Kasey comes up with. Hoping for a preview before SHOT.
 
Hey guys, I have refrained from asking this question on the forum - however I have tried all the other channels with DTA and am a bit of a time crunch here, so...

DTA Warranty is replacing my A1 FDE skins because of some quality problems and they want me to send mine in before they send me new ones. (they have detailed photos of the problem)

My question is do I remove the magazine latch assembly on the right skin for the return or do the new skins have the assembly installed?

If I am supposed to remove this piece, how do I accomplish that task, it is not addressed in the manual and I have researched this thread along with googling it to death w/o avail

Thanks
 
I'm sure if you leave it on there and it needs to be used on the new skins they will do it for you since they want the old ones back before sending the new ones.
 
Well when I turned to put barrel back in it slid in okay and it seem okay then why I tried to lock it. The screw stayed place facing down. in the unlock position. So I ended up taking my gun apart and literately found nothing inside how ever the barrel wouldn't budge. With every screw out and the frame disassembled even the locking bolt was taken out nothing was holding barrel it seemed to be caught on something and I can't for the life of me figure it out. When I apply some force I'm able to remove the barrel and same goes for reassembling the barrel it requires force. What do I do I don't want to mail it back to DTA I have had it less than a month. Everything else seems to be in working condition. I don't know any help will be greatly appreciated thanks!

A couple of questions:

Is this the first time you have removed the barrel?

There is the single locking bolt that has no torque and is marked locked and unlocked, and on the other side there is 4 tensioning bolts that require torque. Which of these are you referring to?

I am thinking 2 different things, and please don't be insulted as I am going off of limited information.

1) You misunderstand the system, and think that the "lock" screw is the only thing that holds the barrel in. So maybe your tension screws are tightened.

2) Maybe you do understand the system, and the barrels shank section is slightly to large. I have had several blanks that are tight, and then after Cerakote are to tight to fit in the chassis requireing some force. (after I encountered this, I turned the shank down to the proper diameter)

I applogize if I misunderstand your description. If this is the case please provide more information, and I will do the best I can to help.

Ty
 
Carry case for a do it yourself DTA toolkit...

I just got my .50BMG HTI, going to pick up the barrel here soon. Likely get the .375CT down the road too. Excited to get it set up, get the loading gear and get going. Got the can in the works with Elite Iron, figuring out which bipod to get, waiting on the NF Beast for the optics. May borrow the USO off my Grendel for a few shots in the meantime.

For the wrench, I noticed they use the Seekonk, and for the allen keys and tool set, they use the Topeak X-Tool in black. To save you money, you can order the Seekonk tool from Protorquetools.com, and get the X-Tool off Amazon. Here's what you want:

BT-2L 3/8" Seekonk T handle Preset Slip Type Torque Wrench 3/8"Dr 2-80 inch lbs., locking type with hammer ends: 101.52, 106.08 with the 5mm drive, and it's free shipping over 100 dollars. Specify 80 inch pounds for the HTI, 70 for the SRS.

The Topeak X-Tool, 10 piece in black, can be ordered on Amazon for about $13 shipped, tax and all (I'm in WA) or $12 something if you aren't a WA resident. Just search for "Topeak X-Tool" and you'll find it. It's the black "ten piece" one. The silver one is the same, but, well, silver.

$106.08+$13=$119.08; a hell of a lot better than $180, which is what DTA charges for them with the torque wrench already set (you have to wait a couple weeks on the wrench for them to set it to your specs.)

The entire cleaning kit can be put together for around $200, depending on exactly what you want in it and what kind of case you want.

Just figured I'd put out that good money saver tip in case it hasn't been mentioned yet.


My thanks to Strykervet for his pointers to the tools in a do it yourself DTA toolkit (quoted above). Saved me a bunch following his lead! Delivery on the Seekonk wrench was only 8 days between placing an order with Protorquetools.com and delivery drop shipped by Seekonk.

Let me suggest a Condor MA64 case to hold the tools. I found these on ebay for $16.95 delivered: search on ebay for "Condor MOLLE Side Kick Pouch MA64 Utility Gadget IFAK First Aid EMT Medic Bag". Several similar cases will come up on this search.

The MA64 has ample space and seems very well built... Plenty of room left over to add the necessary items from an Otis cleaning kit and some other tools that come in handy. See thumbnails below.

Best regards,
Bob
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0260a.jpg
    IMAG0260a.jpg
    28 KB · Views: 32
  • IMAG0261a.jpg
    IMAG0261a.jpg
    27.4 KB · Views: 40
  • IMAG0265a.jpg
    IMAG0265a.jpg
    26.3 KB · Views: 28
  • IMAG0266a.jpg
    IMAG0266a.jpg
    25.1 KB · Views: 32
A couple of questions:

Is this the first time you have removed the barrel?

There is the single locking bolt that has no torque and is marked locked and unlocked, and on the other side there is 4 tensioning bolts that require torque. Which of these are you referring to?

I am thinking 2 different things, and please don't be insulted as I am going off of limited information.

1) You misunderstand the system, and think that the "lock" screw is the only thing that holds the barrel in. So maybe your tension screws are tightened.

2) Maybe you do understand the system, and the barrels shank section is slightly to large. I have had several blanks that are tight, and then after Cerakote are to tight to fit in the chassis requireing some force. (after I encountered this, I turned the shank down to the proper diameter)

I applogize if I misunderstand your description. If this is the case please provide more information, and I will do the best I can to help.

Ty

Hey by all means you are insulting no one because your just trying to help me out and I appreciate it much! I do understand the system with the lock and unlock that doesn't require the torque but i disassembled the entire gun even the lock bolt was completely removed and the barrel still have trouble being removed and replaced. I did take the gun out to the range today and it fired just fine so glad I didn't damage anything. The barrel slid out very easily the first time i took it apart I just don't understand why it doesn't go back in just smooth. I don't think i have the tools to turn down my barrel I wish I did. I'm not sure what other information you need from me but i can answer any more question you have.
 
Primal Rights' review of the new Desert Tech scope mount was very informative and greatly appreciated. This platform just keeps getting better and better, thanks to the tireless efforts of the Desert Tech staff. Good job guys.

PS-My early DTA SRS A1 is stamped "Desert Tech". I never noticed that before and is fine with me as long as they keep turning out such great and innovative products. Still waiting for my second A1 ordered March 1st!
 
Hey by all means you are insulting no one because your just trying to help me out and I appreciate it much! I do understand the system with the lock and unlock that doesn't require the torque but i disassembled the entire gun even the lock bolt was completely removed and the barrel still have trouble being removed and replaced. I did take the gun out to the range today and it fired just fine so glad I didn't damage anything. The barrel slid out very easily the first time i took it apart I just don't understand why it doesn't go back in just smooth. I don't think i have the tools to turn down my barrel I wish I did. I'm not sure what other information you need from me but i can answer any more question you have.

Could it be that one of the 4 side bolts has not backed out enough despite with the seekonk wrench is telling you?

Take an Allen key and loosen the side bolts an extra half turn. Also check to see everything is clean. My DTA had small pieces of styrofoam in all sorts of strange places, and these actually interfered with me putting my barrel back in.

If it came out fine once before, I cant see why it wouldnt go back in okay, unless there was dirt obstructing the barrel or perhaps the side bolts/screws are not backed out enough?
 
Primal Rights' review of the new Desert Tech scope mount was very informative and greatly appreciated. This platform just keeps getting better and better, thanks to the tireless efforts of the Desert Tech staff. Good job guys.

+1

Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with the Spuhr mount? Pros and cons of each?
 
Could it be that one of the 4 side bolts has not backed out enough despite with the seekonk wrench is telling you?

Take an Allen key and loosen the side bolts an extra half turn. Also check to see everything is clean. My DTA had small pieces of styrofoam in all sorts of strange places, and these actually interfered with me putting my barrel back in.

If it came out fine once before, I cant see why it wouldnt go back in okay, unless there was dirt obstructing the barrel or perhaps the side bolts/screws are not backed out enough?

I wish I would of taken pictures of the situation but I was just frustrated so much I didn't think about it. Okay let me describe this one more time every single screw/bot was out of the gun there wasn't as screw or bolt left in the entire gun. Like it was literately just the main piece frame and the barrel. Inside had no Styrofoam or anything. I'll take some pictures maybe tonight and post it up. Or maybe even a YouTube clip which would be better.
 
I wish I would of taken pictures of the situation but I was just frustrated so much I didn't think about it. Okay let me describe this one more time every single screw/bot was out of the gun there wasn't as screw or bolt left in the entire gun. Like it was literately just the main piece frame and the barrel. Inside had no Styrofoam or anything. I'll take some pictures maybe tonight and post it up. Or maybe even a YouTube clip which would be better.
Wow, ok. I'm getting a clearer picture. You had every bolt out.

Ok, the shank diameter is certainly not the issue because you said that it slid out of the chassis good the first time. Just to double check the shank it should measure right at 1.250" plus or minus a couple thousandths.

You said you forced the barrel in and out. Is there any strange scratches or wear marks on the barrels coating that could indicate it hitting something?

You said you took all bolts out. Did the barrel go easily in and out at this point?

Did you take the lock, unlock cam all the way out? Because my next thoughts is that your lock cam is obstructing the barrel channel. Take a flash light with the barrel removed and shine down the fore end. Operate the lock from locked to unlocked while watching it.

At this point I am just spit balling ideas, because it sounds like you know what is up and Vman already offered up my first thought, which is that the tension bolts are not releasing their pinch on the barrel shank.

I hope you get this figured out.

Ty
 
Wow, ok. I'm getting a clearer picture. You had every bolt out.

Ok, the shank diameter is certainly not the issue because you said that it slid out of the chassis good the first time. Just to double check the shank it should measure right at 1.250" plus or minus a couple thousandths.

You said you forced the barrel in and out. Is there any strange scratches or wear marks on the barrels coating that could indicate it hitting something?

You said you took all bolts out. Did the barrel go easily in and out at this point?

Did you take the lock, unlock cam all the way out? Because my next thoughts is that your lock cam is obstructing the barrel channel. Take a flash light with the barrel removed and shine down the fore end. Operate the lock from locked to unlocked while watching it.

At this point I am just spit balling ideas, because it sounds like you know what is up and Vman already offered up my first thought, which is that the tension bolts are not releasing their pinch on the barrel shank.

I hope you get this figured out.

Ty

"You said you took all bolts out. Did the barrel go easily in and out at this point?"

Nope It did not.

"Did you take the lock, unlock cam all the way out? Because my next thoughts is that your lock cam is obstructing the barrel channel. Take a flash light with the barrel removed and shine down the fore end. Operate the lock from locked to unlocked while watching it."

Yep the lock bolt came all the way out I even lost the little bb that sat on the spring to restrict the turn. Still a ruff entry and exit for the barrel I even took the flash light and tried to track it all the way back and I don't see anything that would be cause the grind.
 
Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with the Spuhr mount? Pros and cons of each?
I've played with the Spuhr mounts a bit too. They are definitely of good quality, however, the one I had was too low to accommodate a Premier 5-25x56 w/ARD. If I took the ARD off, and removed the butler creek cap, then it would clear, but ever so slightly. Obviously newer premiers have a tennabraex cover which is larger than the butler creek.

Obviously they are more versatile than the DT mount, as they accommodate a variety of ACI's, MRD's, and night vision mounting. I think you'd have to go up to the 1.73 or 1.89" one in order to provide enough clearance for a Premier or S&B with ARD on a 44.whatever MOA slope. I really HATE that about the Spuhr mounts. They are not simple. Every single one of their numbers is odd ball. So for my customers that order a DT rifle, selling them a DT mount is a no-brainer. The mounts work perfectly with their rifles. No real shocker there. Then for people with other flat top rifles, it's also a simple sale. 34mm, 20, 30, or 40 MOA... with some ring reducers if needed. I know it will work, and I know what it will clear. ... oh, and it's cheaper than the spuhr too! ;)
 
I'm sure if you leave it on there and it needs to be used on the new skins they will do it for you since they want the old ones back before sending the new ones.

Thank you for your reply. I would feel "sure" as well if it were not for circumstances surrounding this entire deal and my prior QC experiences with 2 other new DTA's.
 
wel im stoked for everyone that has there new machines!!!! how bout shooting up some pics of those bad boys, il do the same when i get mine!! but heres what im wondering..... what happens if they are able to bann lead bullets? what do we shoot then? may be this is a stupid ? of mine. but i heard something of sort like that. if they can't get are guns, gona go after the ammo??
 
I wouldnt worry about a lead ban.... It might screw the industry for a short period, but things would get sorted pretty quickly. Theres already lead free alternatives available mate, dont stress too much ;)

Me and a mate took our DTAs out today for a bit of load dev. Shot both over a Steinert Sensing Super-Chrono (accoustic chrony) and we were getting some super results. Our 6.5x47 barrels had no trouble hitting 2950+ FPS. In fact my mates barrel was shooting 130 Berger VLD's at over 3000 FPS with 38.0 grains of Varget (ADI 2208) with an ES of 3!

Mine needs a bit more work on load dev but everything is promising.

Crappy iPhone pic for dirtyharry44mag

D7F9DDB8-3E5D-449F-AEA4-A6713913455A_zpstywgedyc.jpg
 
Last edited:
The srs a1 is probably the only rifle I'm 100% certain I'll keep for life. Barrel wears out? Easier to replace with no gunsmith. Bolt wears out? 250-350 bucks replaces it. Want a different caliber? 1 minute and it's whatever caliber I want. The versatility design and size of the srs put it in a category of it's own. Sure the AI are awesome but I'm a fan of shorter weapons because I carry mine a lot through the woods and whatnot. They are also far lighter than an AI.

I bought mine locally with no wait. The guy ordered them at shot. I paid 4800 for a a1 covert in fde fde with monopod? I think I made out pretty good considering there was no wait and I bought ftf so no tax


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can I get a lead to your Houston dealer that has a Covert A1 in stock. Thanks.
 
Just completing a reloading session for my 300 WM. Used my OAL gauge and measured a 3.60" OAL on my DTA. So I made up 15 rds with a 3.5 OAL using Berger 200 grain Hybrids and 67 grains of IMR4350 in a Winchester case. Anyone else use this OAL? Comments are welcome.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Just completing a reloading session for my 300 WM. Used my OAL gauge and measured a 3.60" OAL on my DTA. So I made up 15 rds with a 3.5 OAL using Berger 200 grain Hybrids and 67 grains of IMR4350 in a Winchester case. Anyone else use this OAL? Comments are welcome.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My 208 amax loads are right at 3.60" as well, though I seat them to the ogive.
 
Well just found out today that my 2nd Desert Tech SRS A1 arrived 1 month ago, but inadvertently sent to the wrong FFL in Phoenix with no name on or in the box. I belong to that FFL and they know me well, so called today and will pick it up tomorrow. Will be at the range working up my 260 loads tomorrow morning. Have my scope and mount ready and only need a QD Atlas bipod, which I'll from Eurooptic tomorrow AM. Hopefully, I will have it all together by this weekend and can get her zeroed in and put her through her paces. I know she's been waiting as long for this as I have!!! They're definitely beginning to roll out now... Good luck to all who have been patiently waiting. You won't be disappointed.
 
leadoff_dtamount.jpg


Desert Tech? Who the heck is that? Well you all know Desert Tactical Arms (DTA). Apparently they were having trouble with exports and government agencies that did not like the name on the forms they were approving. "Tactical" is apparently one of those "scary words" that send liberals screaming for the hills with fear in their eyes. DTA decided to give in to the continued liberalization of the planet and change their name. So after spending the last 5 years talking about Desert Tactical Arms or DTA... we are suppose to talk about Desert Tech now instead. Same company, same products, new name. Confusing for the end user, and a pain in the ass for everyone else. So, in the future, DTA is now DT or Deserttech, ... or something. Now we've got that out of the way, lets get on with the review!

Today we're looking at the 1-piece scope mount from Desert Tech. There have been several revisions of these mounts over the last year. Originally DTA offered two different mounts. One for the SRS, which was a 4-screw ring design, and one for the HTI which was a 6-screw ring design. In an effort to streamline production, they elected to eliminate the SRS design and only offer the HTI version, which is now referred to as the Desert Tech Scope Mount.

Price: $370
Height: 1.5"
Tube Diameter: 34mm (with optional 30mm aluminum inserts)
MOA Slope: 20, 30, or 40 MOA
Material: 7075 T6 Aircraft-Grade Aluminum

IMG_7851.jpg


As you can see, this mount is very robust. It was designed to tame the most abusive recoil the 50BMG can dish out. The 6-screw ring design has more surface area which ensures a very solid mating between the optic and the mount. The 1.5" height ensures that large optics typically found on long range rifles will clear a monolithic picatinny rail such as is found on DTA rifles. Even with a 40MOA slope, this mount will allow you to run an ARD or sunshade on a Premier 5-25x56 or similarly sized optic, while still maintaining clearance from the pic rail.

IMG_7852.jpg


Here's a look at the top of the mount. The six cap screws are 2.5mm interface, and provide ample torque to give a good clamp on the scope tube. The ring size is engraved, so you won't forget.

IMG_7853.jpg


From the side view, you'll see some more indicative engraving to ensure you never forget what size and slope your mount is. The front ring has a directional arrow which indicates the direction of slope, that way you don't put it on backwards. The pic rail clamps are quite large, providing a huge amount of clamping surface. The cap screws use a 5mm interface and can be torqued 70-80in/lbs. Both the SRS and HTI rifle barrel screws are 5mm, and are torqued to 70 and 80in/lbs, respectively. Desert Tech has no published specs that I'm aware of for this mount, so I grabbed a caliper and took some measurements. You'll see those readings in the pictures where applicable.

IMG_7854.jpg


The rear of the mount has an integral bubble level. This is a very cool feature to help you eliminate canting your rifle. There are bubble levels that clamp onto your scope tube or your picatinny rail, but they generally stick out and get caught on things. The style that clamps on the scope tube almost always gets in the way of your turrets, and can create a knuckle-buster. The integral level is where it's at! If you take a closer look, you can certainly tell the attention to detail that went into the design of the mount.

IMG_7855.jpg


On the opposite side, they knocked out a couple healthy chunks of material to lighten things up a bit. Notice the foresight to open up the area behind the bubble level. This will let some ambient light through and let you see the level in darker conditions than you would if it were sealed.

IMG_7856.jpg


On the bottom, two individual lugs to interface with the pic rail. There are also some more areas machined out to save some weight without losing any structural integrity.

IMG_7857.jpg


Behind the rear pic rail clamp, the bubble level is epoxied in place to ensure that it will not get to wiggling around in there.

These mounts have been working outstandingly well on every application we've used them on thus far. There are a few left in stock, and we'll have a healthy supply of them by the end of January.
bye any chance do you have any those in stock? i couldn't find them on your webpage
 
Adjustable bum arrived for my boom stick today... really cool, and makes finding that eye box simple simple simple.
Another cool thing I noticed with this adjustable rear is that the reticle no longer looks canted by a degree or two... I always run my scope with levelled scopes and reticle, however whenever I shoulder the rifle the scope always "appeared" canted despite what the level says. This has solved that issue so now I know it was always an issue with my form.

2962cfc6b1e277f43619cf2c8a61175d_zps2a243a48.jpg

ac976911ae87a8cb25c576c756b90dce_zpsdc4d7b1f.jpg
 
I know there are several of you running 6.5 variants of this platform. I have run some ballistics calcs via software and found these to be the closest to my 300 WM. The only question left is which one has been found to have the most availability of ammunition or components?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mike,
Occasionally the barrel lock will create a burr on the barrels shoulder which it sounds like happened here. We can remove the burr for you or you can take a file and remove it yourself. Usually this is caused from the barrel not being fully seated and the lock being forced to engage which will either just hit the side of the barrel or if it's almost seated fully it will force the barrel to seat the rest of the way which in both instances can create a burr. It is a simple fix.
 
My 208 amax loads are right at 3.60" as well, though I seat them to the ogive.

What .300wm barrel do you have? I have a gen 1 Krieger 1-11 and I don't have my oal data in front of me but 2.846" at the ogive on the amax is .002" jammed on mine.

It shows promise with 76.7gr of H1000 but unfortunately I only have 1 box of bullets and a pound of powder.

I'm also playing with the 225 BTHP at 2.833" and Retumbo and got very good speed and accuracy. Unfortunately going to run out of powder on this one too though.
 
My 300 WM barrel is advertised as 1:10 twist and 26" long. You using a headspace gauge new guy? I am using an OAL gauge. 2.772 using the comparator.
 
300win Mag loads

Hi I also , shoot 300WM in New Zealand ,try 208 amax 76.5 gr ADI 2217 2885 fps ( H 1000) coal 2.840" , Hornady 225gr BTHP 73.2gr ADI 2217 ( H1000) 2.891" from ogive 2810 fps both these loads shoot 0.75 - 0.5 moa in my DTA at around 20.0 degrees celsius 100 ft above sea level . Over here in the colonies its a considerable saving shooting the 300 hundy rather than .338 loading 300WM for just over half the price , still getting solid hits out to beyond 1630m ,
 
second of angle,
Hey we shoot there too. :)

Nick -

Yeah, I was there about 2 summers ago and you guys were there. I knew about the rifles from get-some-guns-and-ammo display rifles. I was highly interested. I had had my McMillan Tac-50 only about a year at that time. Somebody was shooting an HTI 50 and I was super impressed with the groups he was getting with ball ammo, comparable to what I was getting with AMAX loads in the Tac-50. I couldn't believe it. Meantime, I had to run back to Sugarhouse to get some reloads I had forgotten. I brought back some Hornady factory AMAX to shoot as the prone shooter had agreed to let me shoot some just to compare to the BigMac (it may have been you, I can't recall now). By the time I got back, Dave had shut the 50 down, making too much noise or something. Unfortunate.

Fast forward to November 2013. I had the random opportunity to shoot with one of your employees in the Desert. As soon as I shot the HTI in 375 I knew I had a problem. Then I put 4 rounds of my American Eagle Ball ammo through the 50 into a 3" group at 425 yards and I knew that problem had to be solved. I was hooked.

I came home, listed the BigMac on the forums, and got an HTI from Eurooptic while waiting for the Tac-50 to sell (that was painful - it was custom built by McMillan for me with a specially turned heavy 32" Lilja barrel, and it shot very very well - but it was sooooo looong and heavy!). But, I could not be happier with the change.

Thanks for making rifles that make us feel like this - so enthralled. (Yeah, I'm a sorry-ass Fanboy, and I admit it.)

Hope to see you on the range again soon!

SOA

PS - I think my story may be instructive/emblematic. A person may be interested in these rifles just from knowing about them, fondling them in the store. But after he shoots them, his fate is sealed. He HAS TO HAVE ONE.
 
Last edited:
And 2 weeks after getting the rifle, still shooting factory ammo (350 SMK), we shot this 8pt at 1100 yards, on the first shot. I LOVE this rifle.
 

Attachments

  • 375_CT_1100_yards.jpg
    375_CT_1100_yards.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 34
Hi Orkan , am I able to purchase one of these through you and have you ship to New Zealand , the NZ DTA agent will be quite some time before they receive their next shipment from the States . Happy new year.
 
Happy New Year to all you DTA shooters , From New Zealand .

Heading off to the back country with a few mates with DTAs hoping to shoot out to 3000m with HTI 375 cheytac ,also 2000m with 338LMs / 300WM , a few to many wallabies , rabbits and possibly pigs ( hogs for you folk.) that need thinning out . Just like to wish you all a Happy New Year .
 

Attachments

  • 016.JPG
    016.JPG
    235.4 KB · Views: 32
  • 017.JPG
    017.JPG
    251.5 KB · Views: 34
  • 020.JPG
    020.JPG
    223.3 KB · Views: 31
I have a couple left on the shelf.
il take one now! so when it gets here, im ready to mount her lol he and shoot :) pm me with web info or what ever it takes to order it and get you the cheese thank you a bunch and happy new year to everyone!! keep standing together as one!! too fight off the wolfs