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Gunsmithing Switch barrel tools and advise

bas402

Bolt Shooter
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 22, 2010
    1,247
    97
    NE Oklahoma
    Don't know if this is the correct forum for this but... I figure you smiths out there would know best I am in the process of building a switch barrel rig with a Bighorn TL2 and I have a couple of questions.

    1. Which barrel vise is best for this purpose? I have looked at Ferrell,Tubbs,Viper,and Davidson
    2. which action wrench? I have looked at PT&G(goes length of action) Davidson and Hart, Surgeon will not fit in ejection port.
    3. what lubricate to use on the barrel threads? Copper based never- seize?
    4. What torque level to use? I heard anywhere from snap snug to 50-100ft/lbs

    PS I have tried to use the search tab but had no luck after hours of looking so if there's a thread please point me to it,

    Thanks for the help
    Sully
     
    Sully,


    Bench rest shoots do this all the time. On accurateshooter.com try your search. PBike257 (at accurateshooter) makes a nice rear entry wrench and a great barrel vise to do this, that he sells for a competitive price. You'll want a wrench that you can leave the scope on the action. that is where the rear entry wrench comes in. You'll need to give it good torque but not 100#, yes some anti seize or light lube is used on the threads.

    even tho you'll be bumping back to a hard shoulder, If you are like me, a set of go no go gauges sure make touching off that first round a bit less exciting.

    Idahoorion
     
    +1 the previous reply. You ever hear of thread stretch? Torque a bbl to 100 lbs/ft, repeatedly, and you may be finding out all about it. Torque values vary depending on whether the threads are lubricated or dry. Several years ago, I had a local gunsmith do a Krieger 6.5mm med. Palma in 6.5x55 for my 308 Palma rifle, with the intention of being able to swap bbls for both any/any & Palma prone matches. Evidently, the gunsmith who'd originally built the rifle hadn't used any lube on the bbl threads, and we had a 'ell of a time getting the stainless bbl out of the stainless action. Since the Nesika recoil lug was also stainless, we had some galling, and sheared off both the little 1/16" lug locating pins when the bbl finally did come loose.

    Moly fortified automotive grease works well, or you can use the moly grease Brownells sells for use on shotgun choke tubes, or NECO Moly Slide.
     
    Sully,


    Bench rest shoots do this all the time. On accurateshooter.com try your search. PBike257 (at accurateshooter) makes a nice rear entry wrench and a great barrel vise to do this, that he sells for a competitive price. You'll want a wrench that you can leave the scope on the action. that is where the rear entry wrench comes in. You'll need to give it good torque but not 100#, yes some anti seize or light lube is used on the threads.

    even tho you'll be bumping back to a hard shoulder, If you are like me, a set of go no go gauges sure make touching off that first round a bit less exciting.

    Idahoorion

    Thanks for the info and the tip. I did the search and put an email into Paul. Looks like he makes some great stuff and his 2 short video's seemed quit informative. This whole switch barrel thing has got me pretty excited but pent up as well. I mean I've never done this before on a conventional rifle, on my DTA it's no big deal because the extent ion locks into place and everything repeats like butter, I have 5 different barrels I change out on it and it's no big thing but... This project like I said has me a little on edge. Yep I hear you I got the gauges already in hand, well their at my smith's and he is local so we are going to joined at the hip on this one for sure!
     
    Last edited:
    +1 the previous reply. You ever hear of thread stretch? Torque a bbl to 100 lbs/ft, repeatedly, and you may be finding out all about it. Torque values vary depending on whether the threads are lubricated or dry. Several years ago, I had a local gunsmith do a Krieger 6.5mm med. Palma in 6.5x55 for my 308 Palma rifle, with the intention of being able to swap bbls for both any/any & Palma prone matches. Evidently, the gunsmith who'd originally built the rifle hadn't used any lube on the bbl threads, and we had a 'ell of a time getting the stainless bbl out of the stainless action. Since the Nesika recoil lug was also stainless, we had some galling, and sheared off both the little 1/16" lug locating pins when the bbl finally did come loose.

    Moly fortified automotive grease works well, or you can use the moly grease Brownells sells for use on shotgun choke tubes, or NECO Moly Slide.

    Thanks for the advise, I have the copper anti-seize and the NECO moly slide in hand and my smith will use whatever my choice is, both of my barrels are medium Palma Chanlynn barrels. Thread stretch is my biggest concern, does anyone know a good torque value? This way I can always repeat this step is 65ft/lbs to much???? To little???
     
    Last edited:
    You ever hear of thread stretch? Torque a bbl to 100 lbs/ft, repeatedly, and you may be finding out all about it.

    Why don't you quantify this for us?

    What is the stretch created by a 1-1/16 x 16 thread torqued to 100lbft, assuming zero friction (max stretch scenario).
     
    Thanks for that Turbo, after I posted I got to thinking about that statement as well.