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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

ney1 said:
Mike,
Occasionally the barrel lock will create a burr on the barrels shoulder which it sounds like happened here. We can remove the burr for you or you can take a file and remove it yourself. Usually this is caused from the barrel not being fully seated and the lock being forced to engage which will either just hit the side of the barrel or if it's almost seated fully it will force the barrel to seat the rest of the way which in both instances can create a burr. It is a simple fix.
Click to expand...

oo! Thankws Ney1 for the tip!!! Your description of the issue sounds like what it is. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures or a youtube video? I'm kind of an OCD guy and want things done to perfection. Mailing it back is not an option this thing hasn't left my arms since I got it. =)

One last thing will this break any warranty I have on it?
 
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Can I buy one of these in the states?

Really cool - was waiting for the DTA upgraded buttpad for my gen II, but might do something like this. Do any of the members here now if any DTA dealers in the states carry this? I emailed the company, but haven't heard back. Alternatively, I might consider buying someones A1 buttpad if they are replacing it with one of these. Thanks.


vman said:
Adjustable bum arrived for my boom stick today... really cool, and makes finding that eye box simple simple simple.
Another cool thing I noticed with this adjustable rear is that the reticle no longer looks canted by a degree or two... I always run my scope with levelled scopes and reticle, however whenever I shoulder the rifle the scope always "appeared" canted despite what the level says. This has solved that issue so now I know it was always an issue with my form.

2962cfc6b1e277f43619cf2c8a61175d_zps2a243a48.jpg

ac976911ae87a8cb25c576c756b90dce_zpsdc4d7b1f.jpg
Click to expand...
 
hay whats the diffrence betwen 338wm vs 338 lm? i have the 338 lm barrel, but is it worth getting the 338 wm conversion made?
 
dirtyharry44mag said:
hay whats the diffrence betwen 338wm vs 338 lm? i have the 338 lm barrel, but is it worth getting the 338 wm conversion made?
Click to expand...
Not if performance is your concern. The more powerful LM is based off the .416 Rigby with about 30% greater case capacity than the .375H&H-based .338WM. They operate off different bolt faces, as well.
 
mikedinh987 said:
oo! Thankws Ney1 for the tip!!! Your description of the issue sounds like what it is. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures or a youtube video? I'm kind of an OCD guy and want things done to perfection. Mailing it back is not an option this thing hasn't left my arms since I got it. =)

One last thing will this break any warranty I have on it?
Click to expand...


I will try to do a video explanation of it, deburring the barrels shoulder with a file will not void the warranty, but if you stick it in a lathe and go to town with it will.

Thanks

Nick
 
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The pistol grips on the SRS and HTI follow a more traditional match standard contour that intentionally forces the shooters knuckles to align perpendicularly with the rifle, it helps shooters to reduce rifle movement during trigger pulling. Of course most are probably more familiar with AR-15 grips which are very small and have a steep angle on them and really aren't designed for precision work.
 
newguy2k3v2 said:
What .300wm barrel do you have? I have a gen 1 Krieger 1-11 and I don't have my oal data in front of me but 2.846" at the ogive on the amax is .002" jammed on mine.

It shows promise with 76.7gr of H1000 but unfortunately I only have 1 box of bullets and a pound of powder.

I'm also playing with the 225 BTHP at 2.833" and Retumbo and got very good speed and accuracy. Unfortunately going to run out of powder on this one too though.
Click to expand...

I have a Gen 1 DTA barrel, unsure of the barrel maker tho. I'll dig into my notes or measure to the ogive and let you know.
 
Does anyone else have an SRS barrel from SAC? I bought one from another Hide member and it takes quite a bit of effort to get it to seat in the chassis. I will be measuring it tonight but wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone has experienced this as well.
 
vinsonr said:
Does anyone else have an SRS barrel from SAC? I bought one from another Hide member and it takes quite a bit of effort to get it to seat in the chassis. I will be measuring it tonight but wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone has experienced this as well.
Click to expand...

I'm running a SAC barrel on my A1 with no issues.
 
vinsonr said:
Does anyone else have an SRS barrel from SAC? I bought one from another Hide member and it takes quite a bit of effort to get it to seat in the chassis. I will be measuring it tonight but wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone has experienced this as well.
Click to expand...

The tolerances are just tighter. Seat the barrel with your bolt in, and cycle the bolt within the bolt chamber to ensure proper fit before tightening down. I've been extremely happy with my SAC barrels.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I have 2 SAC barrels with a 3rd on the way, No issues. Can't go wrong in my opinion with Mark's work!
 
we'll after i got off the phone today from ordering my hti mount for the glass,i got my budys phone call who has the rifle inn!!!!! ALL of the hole order, shirts and all LOL he sent me some pics and the store went crazy looking at it!! so i get it in a week, and il post up some photo's when all is put together. soooo an extra 4 grey hairs on my head since ordered, :)) not to badd lol but wouldn't it be cool if they made a barrel conversn on the hti chassis with a .55 cal? or am i dreaming again :)
 
dirtyharry44mag said:
we'll after i got off the phone today from ordering my hti mount for the glass,i got my budys phone call who has the rifle inn!!!!! ALL of the hole order, shirts and all LOL he sent me some pics and the store went crazy looking at it!! so i get it in a week, and il post up some photo's when all is put together. soooo an extra 4 grey hairs on my head since ordered, :)) not to badd lol but wouldn't it be cool if they made a barrel conversn on the hti chassis with a .55 cal? or am i dreaming again :)
Click to expand...

Contgrats! It was nice talking with you today. Your HTI mount will be one its way tomorrow.
 
I just read on the FN Forum that Nick turned down a very lucrative offer to sell his rifles to Pakistani Army for fear the weapons might be used against US troops. Kudos to Nick for putting his Values above Greed. What a great American company and weapons system and makes me a very proud owner of 2 A1s.
 
Pure speculation, but do you guys think that this will be a semi system usable with the SRS or a separate platform?
 
herofish said:
I am running 2 SAC barrels as well and I don't have any issues seating them...
Click to expand...

Are they a tighter fit than DTA built barrels? My 3 DTA's drop in with no resistance. I had to use both hands to push the barrel in and seat the SAC one.
 
Russ,
Part if the loading machine, That's funny! Lol


For the tight barrel sleeve on the sac barrel it is possible that they painted it too thick. If you have a lathe or a gunsmith with one just spin it and run some sand paper along it and it will reduce the paint thickness.
 
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ney1 said:
Looks like we made the local news again. I didn't think our decision would be as big of a deal as it turned out to be.

Utah gun manufacturer refuses sale to Pakistan | ksl.com
Click to expand...
While it's nice to see you being humble lately...

You're damn right it's a big deal. You realize how few businesses put morality before money? There aren't many of us Nick. Fantastic decision, and I support it 100%. The last damn thing a bad guy needs access to is the shortest, most versatile, and most accurate rifles in the world. Pakistan is a KNOWN refuge for bad guys. Giving them this kind of kit would undoubtedly result in American and allied casualties down the road.

Stand tall man. You did the right thing, and our customers will reward you for it.

Besides, even if you wanted to sell them rifles, you can't make enough for us over here anyway! ;) (I had to)
 
guys, I am hoping you have some assistance for me...

I have a 260, 308 and 338. I have been running the 260 and 308 for a while - runs 100% great (a dream to shoot the 260). I had been waiting on a bolt for the 338. I finally got one, but right after I got it and put it into the chassis it really didn't feel anywhere near as smooth as the .308 bolt.

I called DTA and sent my bolt back in after explaining the issue.

I just got the bolt back from DTA - looks like the same bolt, but I put it into the chassis and worked it like 20 times. After doing so, there are a lot of metal shavings in the bolt raceway near the barrel shroud. Below is a picture.

To double check, I removed the bolt, cleaned the channel, ran the .308 bolt 30 times - checked - totally clean. Put in the .338 bolt and ran it 20 times - lots of fresh new metal shavings.

Any ideas?

shavings_1.JPG

shavings_2.JPG
 
You are unable to see where the metal is coming from? I would guess on the left side where the bolt rubs. Mine gave me a little when I first got it but then I greased the crap out of it and ran it back and forth a bunch and it has been good since.

Looks like you have a lot more than I did though
 
i MUST say, that is just amazing about dta canning that sale/buyer deal!!!! proud to own your machine fellas, greed is taking over every where. now gm and the big dogs need to follow your lead!!!!! HATS OFF TO DTA!!
 
ney1 said:
Looks like we made the local news again. I didn't think our decision would be as big of a deal as it turned out to be.

Utah gun manufacturer refuses sale to Pakistan | ksl.com
Click to expand...

Nick -

You made the right decision on this. Your company makes some fantastic rifles and being located just a few minutes from your Head Quarters in SLC, UT, made me proud to be able to buy and support a local company. Your decision to turn down a lucrative contract and stand for what you (and many others) feel was morally right thing to do is what we need more of in this country.

I had a couple people contact me today, just to talk about the decision you made to not sell long range rifles to a country that knowingly harbors and aids terrorists. Some of whom are now talking about making a Desert Tech rifle their next purchase. I have no doubt that your decision will pay dividends to Desert Tech down the road.

I support you 100% in your decision.
 
Great decision not to sell out. We have pretty much given away our weapons tech over the past 50 years and it has been used against us.

Proud new owner here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nick,
Great decision you made. You will or have found out already that this decision will be an great asset to you and your company down the road. You have my greatest admiration and heart felt THANKS!
Sully
 
herofish said:
anyone have any ideas on the metal shavings?
Click to expand...

It looks like aluminum from the color so its coming off the receiver.
Pull your bolt out and get a flashlight and mirror. Have a look and see where there is metal scraped away. Look at the bolt head and body and see where there are shiny spots or lines. That will tell you which parts are making contact that shouldn't be. You may need to deburr the bolt head or maybe its just fitting itself to the receiver....without having the thing in hand its nearly impossible to give you a detailed answer. You'll either have to send the rifle to someone or figure it out yourself. You can take a sharpie (magic marker) and put some color on any shiny spots in the receiver so that when you slide the bolt in it will leave a colored mark where its contacting the bolt. You can do the same on the bolt and it will leave a colored mark on the receiver. In any case its just a matter of figuring out whats touching where and why its scraping metal off.

Frank
 
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Sometimes good PR is worth more than the monetary value of the contract, or in this case I suspect the potential negative PR of going forward with the sale could have outweighed the contract's value. Smart move.
 
herofish said:
guys, I am hoping you have some assistance for me...

I have a 260, 308 and 338. I have been running the 260 and 308 for a while - runs 100% great (a dream to shoot the 260). I had been waiting on a bolt for the 338. I finally got one, but right after I got it and put it into the chassis it really didn't feel anywhere near as smooth as the .308 bolt.

I called DTA and sent my bolt back in after explaining the issue.

I just got the bolt back from DTA - looks like the same bolt, but I put it into the chassis and worked it like 20 times. After doing so, there are a lot of metal shavings in the bolt raceway near the barrel shroud. Below is a picture.

To double check, I removed the bolt, cleaned the channel, ran the .308 bolt 30 times - checked - totally clean. Put in the .338 bolt and ran it 20 times - lots of fresh new metal shavings.

Any ideas?


My HTI initially had similar a problem. I believe that DTA replaced the striker in the bolt which was rubbing in the raceway. (Hey, rubbing is racing right?), and no more problem. Check in with them again, I'm sure they'll take care of it.
Click to expand...
 
Krazyjohnny said:
Just completing a reloading session for my 300 WM. Used my OAL gauge and measured a 3.60" OAL on my DTA. So I made up 15 rds with a 3.5 OAL using Berger 200 grain Hybrids and 67 grains of IMR4350 in a Winchester case. Anyone else use this OAL? Comments are welcome.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What bbl length / twist and have you chronographed?
 
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