Starting to reload for 308 need help

[Cordova13]

I just bought reloading equipment and will start when I get my rifle back from the long rifles group buy. Ive been searching quite a bit to find what components I want to use. I don't really know how to choose a powder and what the min and max loads are. Most of the loads Ive seen on here are above the max loads that I have found.

My rifle is a 700 with a 24in bartlein 11.25 with a tight bore
I have lapua brass and 175 smk

If someone could help me out that'd be great.

 

[JGorski]

Id start with 2000MR powder for good accuracy and max velocity.

 

[colscar]

get a reloading book the recipies are in there also, what might work in someones rifle might now work in yours.... i hope you have a case headspace guage cuz i found out that the brass i was using wasnt bumping the shoulder back as much and was tight when chambered also read the stickys here and look up 8541 tactical... lone wolf does a reloading bid on mail call mondays i belive its episode 25 or so either way good info there.....

 

[E. Bryant]

44.5gr of Varget under a 175 SMK works very well in my AI AX308 - great velocity and accuracy.

 

[blurry6]

44.5gr of Varget under a 175 SMK works very well in my AI AX308 - great velocity and accuracy.

Varget is a great powder for a 308 win,... but 44.5gr is definitely 'warm' and you should start out at 43.0gr and work up from there,... Learn how to look for signs of pressure - pay attention to your fired primers and look for signs of pressure as you increase your powder load i.e. primers flattening, cratering around the firing pin-hole, etc. Do some searching around the web on the topic with lots-o-pictures, and talk to an experienced reloader about the topic. While it's not a foolproof method of measuring pressure and most (read: all those I've ever read) of the reloading manuals will only gloss over the topic as the liability risks are too great, examination of your fired primers is the only way we reloaders have of determining when we might be approaching the pressure limits of our rifle. It's a critical skill to learn and is pretty accurate (adequate) once you've had a little practice. A good experiment is to start with a load of let's say 43.0gr of Varget - just using this as an example as it's been mentioned. Fire the round, then load up one at 43.5gr, fire. Then 44.0gr, fire,... Now set the three pieces of fired brass on the table head down so you can see all three fired primers,... look at them and evaluate their differences,... see the primers flattening out as the charge weight increases filling in the edges of the primer pocket,... do you see where the firing pin struck the primer, it's beginning to 'crater' as if the metal on the primer is actually flowing up and around the firing pin at the time of ignition? Every rifle is different to a degree, but it's important that you learn how to look for these signs of pressure and over time you'll develop a good sense of when to stop increasing your powder charge.

DEFINITELY get yourself at least one good reloading manual. As you're shooting SMK's, get Sierra's, it's a good one.

Ry

 

[mb3]

I like IMR4064 for 175 smk's, but I also use RL15, for 168 smk's.

 

[E. Bryant]

Varget is a great powder for a 308 win,... but 44.5gr is definitely 'warm' and you should start out at 43.0gr and work up from there

This is a full half-grain under Hodgdon's listed maximum load of 45.0gr, and every load should be worked-up properly - regardless of whether or not the internet considers it to be "warm".

 

[Cordova13]

get a reloading book the recipies are in there also, what might work in someones rifle might now work in yours.... i hope you have a case headspace guage cuz i found out that the brass i was using wasnt bumping the shoulder back as much and was tight when chambered also read the stickys here and look up 8541 tactical... lone wolf does a reloading bid on mail call mondays i belive its episode 25 or so either way good info there.....

I did make sure I got a headspace gauge and I will check out his video. Thanks

 

[Cordova13]

Varget is a great powder for a 308 win,... but 44.5gr is definitely 'warm' and you should start out at 43.0gr and work up from there,... Learn how to look for signs of pressure - pay attention to your fired primers and look for signs of pressure as you increase your powder load i.e. primers flattening, cratering around the firing pin-hole, etc. Do some searching around the web on the topic with lots-o-pictures, and talk to an experienced reloader about the topic. While it's not a foolproof method of measuring pressure and most (read: all those I've ever read) of the reloading manuals will only gloss over the topic as the liability risks are too great, examination of your fired primers is the only way we reloaders have of determining when we might be approaching the pressure limits of our rifle. It's a critical skill to learn and is pretty accurate (adequate) once you've had a little practice. A good experiment is to start with a load of let's say 43.0gr of Varget - just using this as an example as it's been mentioned. Fire the round, then load up one at 43.5gr, fire. Then 44.0gr, fire,... Now set the three pieces of fired brass on the table head down so you can see all three fired primers,... look at them and evaluate their differences,... see the primers flattening out as the charge weight increases filling in the edges of the primer pocket,... do you see where the firing pin struck the primer, it's beginning to 'crater' as if the metal on the primer is actually flowing up and around the firing pin at the time of ignition? Every rifle is different to a degree, but it's important that you learn how to look for these signs of pressure and over time you'll develop a good sense of when to stop increasing your powder charge.

DEFINITELY get yourself at least one good reloading manual. As you're shooting SMK's, get Sierra's, it's a good one.



Ry

That's what I wanted to know. It helped a lot.

 

[fireEMT5]

You can also read and do this - OCW Overview - Dan Newberry's OCW Load Development System
If you follow the instuctions given by Dan Newberry, you'll start low and safely find what your gun likes. This method has worked wonders for myself and many others around here. As mentioned above, what one gun likes, your may not, so it's incumbent upon you to do the leg work for your gun.

 

[blurry6]

That's what I wanted to know. It helped a lot.

Glad to help! Another thing to consider, especially during the winter, is WHEN you do your load development as it relates to the ambient temperature. A fairly 'warm' load in January at 40F, can become SCORCHING(!) in July at 90F depending on the powder you use. As mentioned, Varget is a good powder and is known to be pretty temperature tolerant, but it's still gun-powder and WILL go through some changes as the ambient temp increases/decreases. Just know that the character of your loads will change with temperature, and you'll have to accommodate in response i.e. back off a few 0.1's of a grain during the warm seasons, or increase a few 0.1's of grain during the cold seasons,... If you're accuracy is staying consistent over these shifts in climate, and your pressure signs are tolerable, then you're golden,... but just know that these shifts can take place and the load that was shootin bug-holes in January can start spraying in July and it usually means that the velocity has increased/decreased enough to take it out of the accuracy node you worked so hard to find.... just a thought.

Ry

 

[zackm]

I have a Rem 700 ssvf 24" barrel in 308 shoots .5 MOA to 1000 have never shot it further yet (I have 338 Lapua for that). 100 yards a bad 5 shot group is around .25 to .38 MOA.

Lapua brass
44.9 gr varget
175 gr berger vld
cci br2 primers
2.815 coal
vel. = 2730 fps

no psi issues but start lower work your way up but if your using varget you should find a good node in that ballpark

 

[No1]

Each rifle is unique. One load may work in many rifles equally well or may only work in one. Therefore, the differences you see in published load data and the individual load data that you find here on the hide.
I'm using 44.5g of Varget to push a
moly coated 178Amax
Seated to 2.820"
Fed LR match primers

You will want to start lower and work up.
The handloading stickies above are a real good place to start for the beginner.

 

[No1]

the stickies are here, sorry.

Sniper's Hide Reloading

 

[Cordova13]

Glad to help! Another thing to consider, especially during the winter, is WHEN you do your load development as it relates to the ambient temperature. A fairly 'warm' load in January at 40F, can become SCORCHING(!) in July at 90F depending on the powder you use. As mentioned, Varget is a good powder and is known to be pretty temperature tolerant, but it's still gun-powder and WILL go through some changes as the ambient temp increases/decreases. Just know that the character of your loads will change with temperature, and you'll have to accommodate in response i.e. back off a few 0.1's of a grain during the warm seasons, or increase a few 0.1's of grain during the cold seasons,... If you're accuracy is staying consistent over these shifts in climate, and your pressure signs are tolerable, then you're golden,... but just know that these shifts can take place and the load that was shootin bug-holes in January can start spraying in July and it usually means that the velocity has increased/decreased enough to take it out of the accuracy node you worked so hard to find.... just a thought.

Ry

Thats what Ive been reading. Would you say 40 grains is good to start with and go until I see high pressure signs?

I just ordered the Sierra book too

 

[Cordova13]

Each rifle is unique. One load may work in many rifles equally well or may only work in one. Therefore, the differences you see in published load data and the individual load data that you find here on the hide.
I'm using 44.5g of Varget to push a
moly coated 178Amax
Seated to 2.820"
Fed LR match primers

You will want to start lower and work up.
The handloading stickies above are a real good place to start for the beginner.

Yeah Ive been reading that sticky a lot and my problem was I didnt really know how low to start.

 

[James n TN]

You can start at 40 work up .5 grn increments until say 42 grns then go .3 grns increments from there.

sent from RAZR Maxx HD using Tapatalk Pro

 

[blurry6]

Yeah Ive been reading that sticky a lot and my problem was I didnt really know how low to start.

You can, but I think you'll find after finally working up an accurate load with the two variables you mention (175 SMK's & Varget), you'll end up with a load that's > 43.0gr of powder. So, why not start with 43.0gr initially and work up. I'm sure you could find a node in the 42.0gr region, but your velocity will be pretty low. The eternal quest is to find the load that is primarily, accurate, and secondarily, as fast as you can get it and still maintain the accuracy you want. I think 43.0gr of Varget under a 175 SMK will be pretty 'safe' to start with, but that said,... EVERY rifle is different and you need to use your own best judgement and experience to determine what's best.

In regard to that little exercise I mentioned of loading up incremental rounds (43.0, 43.5, 44.0,..etc.) and examining the primers, also grab a fired case of factory ammo and compare to those hand-loads,... Factory ammo is typically well within safe tolerances, but there are certainly hotter loads than others. The idea being, to see how the effects of a factory load on the primer in comparison to your hand loads. Of course, the factory is more than likely using a different primer than you are, and that is no small matter when developing a load, but it will give you an indication of 'how far' an ammunition manufacturer is willing to take their offerings in regard to how hot a load is. Some primers on factory loads can get pretty flattened. I guess in closing, just try to make a habit of always examining your primers whether you're shooting hand-loads or factory,... it will at least serve to build that mental database in your head as to what's what,...

Oh, and somebody mentioned a great tell-tale sign: BOLT-LIFT! If you find your bolt is getting sticky when trying to eject a spent round, you're definitely at this upper limit,... STOP! However, you'll have known you're approaching the 'sticky bolt' well before reaching it if you're examining your primers,... Also, blown primers and/or black carbon around the seam of the primer in the primer pocket - definitely a warning sign

Ry

 

[Cordova13]

You can, but I think you'll find after finally working up an accurate load with the two variables you mention (175 SMK's & Varget), you'll end up with a load that's > 43.0gr of powder. So, why not start with 43.0gr initially and work up. I'm sure you could find a node in the 42.0gr region, but your velocity will be pretty low. The eternal quest is to find the load that is primarily, accurate, and secondarily, as fast as you can get it and still maintain the accuracy you want. I think 43.0gr of Varget under a 175 SMK will be pretty 'safe' to start with, but that said,... EVERY rifle is different and you need to use your own best judgement and experience to determine what's best.

In regard to that little exercise I mentioned of loading up incremental rounds (43.0, 43.5, 44.0,..etc.) and examining the primers, also grab a fired case of factory ammo and compare to those hand-loads,... Factory ammo is typically well within safe tolerances, but there are certainly hotter loads than others. The idea being, to see how the effects of a factory load on the primer in comparison to your hand loads. Of course, the factory is more than likely using a different primer than you are, and that is no small matter when developing a load, but it will give you an indication of 'how far' an ammunition manufacturer is willing to take their offerings in regard to how hot a load is. Some primers on factory loads can get pretty flattened. I guess in closing, just try to make a habit of always examining your primers whether you're shooting hand-loads or factory,... it will at least serve to build that mental database in your head as to what's what,...

Oh, and somebody mentioned a great tell-tale sign: BOLT-LIFT! If you find your bolt is getting sticky when trying to eject a spent round, you're definitely at this upper limit,... STOP! However, you'll have known you're approaching the 'sticky bolt' well before reaching it if you're examining your primers,... Also, blown primers and/or black carbon around the seam of the primer in the primer pocket - definitely a warning sign

Ry

Thanks! You've been a huge help. Now how about a place to find powder and primers? Lol cause I can't seem to find any. Only 4064 is what I've seen online.
Would you recommend varget or re15 to start with?

 

[blurry6]

Thanks! You've been a huge help. Now how about a place to find powder and primers? Lol cause I can't seem to find any. Only 4064 is what I've seen online.
Would you recommend varget or re15 to start with?

Actually, 4064 is an old standby for the 308! It's what I started loading with on my first 308 -You might pick up some and give it a go! It's burn rate is actually pretty similar to Varget and RE15. The only challenge I have with 4064 is that it's pretty temp sensitive and yielded some pretty hot loads when shot in the summer,... but, you only have to back off a little on the charge to compensate. Otherwise, it's a great powder! If that's all you can find, don't hesitate to pick some up and practice with it! Also, look for H4895,... that's an old standby I used to shoot.

I've loaded with RE15 and it's a good powder. I can't really remember 'what' I was loading for, but I seem to recall that I loaded with it on a couple different rifles, and the load didn't seem to come together with it,... or maybe it was just that another load beat it out,... I don't remember really,... it's personal preference and mostly availability at these times. Either should be able to yield a good shootin' load.

Ry

 

[Cordova13]

Sounds good then Ill definitely try to get some of that!

 

[tandvu]

Hi cordova 13, I new like u been reloaded over a year , I can't help u must on experience ,
But I just bought some imr 4064 @ natchezss.com & primers @ powder valley reload supply
I hope u already had some , if not good luck

 

[Cordova13]

Hi cordova 13, I new like u been reloaded over a year , I can't help u must on experience ,
But I just bought some imr 4064 @ natchezss.com & primers @ powder valley reload supply
I hope u already had some , if not good luck

Thanks I did find some 4046 at a local shop and cci primers on powder valley

 

[tandvu]

Your welcome Cordova 13 , what we are here for sharing what we known
If you already have some charge note of imr 4064 , have some fun with them , very consistent
Powder
The best for all

 

[Shanerbanner10]

Thanks! You've been a huge help. Now how about a place to find powder and primers? Lol cause I can't seem to find any. Only 4064 is what I've seen online.
Would you recommend varget or re15 to start with?

I'm not going to tell you what to start with but I'm getting 2725-ish from my 22" Brux (suppressed) with Lapua Brass, Fed 210 primers, 175 smk's and 43.0 gr's of rl-15.

 

[MarshalTex]

+1 on 4064. 43.5grns on a 26in RRA varmint got me 2750 fps and bug holes. Ive got a post around here somewhere....

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Vio515]

Everything people have mentioned is great and always reference a loading manual.

As for powder and the 308, there is lots of options -
RL15 (I use this, 44grns, 178 amax, 2675ish in winter and 2750ish summer (its a pretty warm load in summer))
4064 - Currently used in the DODs new Mk316 Mod0 ammo
Varget (excellent powder)
CFE 223
AR-Comp
2000MR

Lots of good choices and it is a forgiving round to reload. Go slow, be careful, get a chrono or borrow one, watch for pressure and you will develop a fine load for your rifle.

Matt

 

[tandvu]

I been on this powder almost a year , do some ladder test for yourself you wil find them , I had a post @ rockbox thread , I hope it will help to your start ( have quite a fews difference powders accept varget hard to find , imr 4064 like the most , savages 10 fcp-k 24 in 1-10 twist 308, have good times with them
The best for all

 

[Cordova13]

Did some ladder tests today! Started at 40 grains and ended at 45. I didn't see any pressure signs so I'm going to go a little higher than that. I had a node at 41.5-42.5 and looks like another at 43 but I have to go past 45 gr now.

 

[Cordova13]

When I test 41.5-42.5 what grain increments should I go in?

 

[tandvu]

If you found your load the most you like , the second step the good loader they call define ,don't take me for that , go with .3 increment you will see with load tighter group ( moa ), that what your good load,
If you want tighter more .2 increment. I have not do that steps yet , you want to shot L R , a lot of things involved , I just shoot 200 yards 300 yds couple time , mostly 200 yards, by the way read hand load fundamental and reload depot , on this hide , those gentlemens they are good , walk through step by step , that what I did from beginning , if you already did that mean your knowledge more than me , I am very please to see your results ,
Ps: sniper's central.com forum one good too
The best for all

 

[Cordova13]

Thanks a lot. I've read a ton on the hide the last few days. I'll probably have results with .3 increments tomorrow.

 

[tandvu]

Had some good results & fun with them sir