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Hunting & Fishing Getting into predator hunting....

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Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 29, 2012
899
123
Florence, SC
Now that deer season is over here in SC, I am looking to take out some of the coyotes I have been getting pictures of and seeing around. There are quite a lot of them out there. Most of the hunting will be over old cut corn and cotton fields and possibly some roads. Many of the cut corn fields got turned under and have wheat planed in them now.

So, what all would yall suggest for a beginner as far as calls, decoys, techniques? I have the gun, camo, and most of the stuff I use to deer hunt with already so should be okay there. Have been looking at the cheaper foxpro ecalls but even those are pretty expensive, not prohibitively though. So, any suggestions would be appreciated on how to take out some of these SC coyotes. Thanks in advance.
 
Skip the foxpro and get a hand call or two. I like Crit'r Calls. Play the wind, minimize movement when on a stand, and be sneaky walking into a stand...coyotes are smart.
 
Thanks for the info. That thread is a pretty good read. Pretty interesting how he set up the doe decoy. I am going to check out some hand calls today and try to get out if I can find a break in the weather. I am guessing this stuff is more of a trial and error kind of thing. That and just playing the numbers... more stands = more opportunities.
 
I bit the bullet and bought a foxpro last year and couldn't be happier. I find it helped on the windy days or when i am being lazy, because i could crank up the volume a little more than i could with hand calls. Both will work fine, people have been hunting with hand calls from the begining of time so dont get cought up in the "arms race". Yotes are sneaky but they can't resist a good call. good luck
 
love the foxpro stuff.

as i'm "thrifty" i've used cheaper Ecalls, should have went with FP from the start. this is one of those things where your $ is being invested, not blown. there's a whole bunch of options and convienance with the FP, and the ability to adapt to different critters is amazing. going to also use it for snow goose this year. works great for crows too.

keep a few mouth calls with you too, i'm trying diaphrams this year to get rid of freeze ups from happening when i need / want the call the most vs some of the other "freeze proof" howlers and such. the open reed calls sound great after some practice, but i always tend to get crap stuck in the reeds, making them useless.

also going with the foxjack2 on the wildfire2 this year. have great success with the mojo critter & primos sit in spin (like a mojo knockoff, but with better storage for the shaft and post. also has a spin speed adjustment on it) in the past, and there's nothing wrong with them, again having to do it all over again i would have gone with the FJ2 up front and have an all in one deal.

my 2 cents on the FPWF2 caller:
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-hunting-fishing/169671-foxpro-wildfire-review.html

i wanted to do something on the foxjack2, but am holding off until i get some field time in with it in the next few weeks.

if your interested, i'll sell that well kept used for 1 season primos sit and spin for $15.00 + shipping.

i have one of these deployed too, still have no opinion if it's actually working for me or not, but probably is not hurting. i figure the silhouette against the snow we get in dim light and a challenge bark or two is helpful, but on the flip side i think it may also intimidate some younger subservient yotes from taking a stroll in the open:
Lucky Duck "Yote" Coyote Decoy : Cabela's

i like using a lightly applied curiosity scent "out there", and a cover scent on your person. they seem to smell you anyhow, watch the direction of the wind.

night or day hunting, i've had the most action from an hour before to an hour after sunrise & sunset. patience is the key, you may get ran over by one the first time out, or not see one at all. don't get discouraged.

lights - i'm still too "thrify" to get a super good one, still using a maglight, and actually found a compact black and decker LED spot light at Wmart for 20.00 that is good out to 150Yish - that's about my max in reality range on these NE coyotes as they are very skiddish up this way this time of year - lots of contests going on, lots of education happening. a shotgun with good patterning is nice to have for these hit and run coyotes. seems they are a blur when they do appear, a quick point and shoot shotgun is very handy. if hunting timber, i'll take the shotgun and a S&W 6" .357 with a reddot.

optics on your rifle / shotgun - something that is illuminated if you are hunting after / before light. something that has really dim settings so as not to blind your "night vision" or wash out your sight picture. i really like a red dot 11 setting type sight. if you have something that the lowest setting is too bright, wear down some batteries and toss them in to help dim the brightness.

nothing beats field experience, but DVR the predator hunting shows, my favorites being furtakers and predator nation, as they actually give "real" tips and they concentrate more on the coyotes and less on the host of the show. pay attention to the calls they use and the mannerisms of the yotes they call in.

i really like predator Xtreme magazine, their articles are really good and is a great resource. the latest issue has 3 articles in it that are very informative on tactics.

so far the best call i've used is making a fist and kissing / smootching it. i've called in more stuff with that than anything i've bought. this time of the year it's mating season, i prefer coyote vocals at this time, with some smootching thrown in.

camo / breaking up your outline is important, remember with the sounds they are intently looking for something, either another yote or something to eat. blend in to whatever your surroundings are, some sort of decoy to keep their attention away from you.

i believe there is no set way of hunting these things. remember you are hunting the things that hunt things, not "easy" stuff like grazing prey animals. you almost have forget most of the stuff you've learned hunting prey animals, your mindset is the greatest tool in your arsenal against yotes. in the end you may find yourself more pumped for predator hunting than other critters.
 
Start w/hand calls. No matter where you call the coyote will know every ecall sound made, its programed into them I swear!
Forget electric decoys, play the wind, sit where you can blend in. Use a feather on a fish line attached to a stick, best decoy there is if you need that.
Be on the lookout all the time, don't fidget around.
Don't waste time or money on "scents" you will never hide from a coyote nose EVER!
If you do buy an ecall just do it right from the start & get a FOXPRO, period.
Don't go by what you may read in a predator/hunt magazine, best thing to do with them is toss em in the fireplace.
Just watch the predator show for laughs if you need one as they are for your entertainment & product sales and that's about it.
I shot 117 last year out here alone without the BS you may watch or read.
 
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I picked up a pair of flexpro hand calls. One howler and one rabbit squealer. Going to give them a shot for now. All I am completely comfident in is that I have the optics, rifle, amd camo covered. I am going to give it a shot pending the weather. Any luck calling them in the rain? Haha. Might habe some fresh ducks to make the feather on a string decoy too. Getting pretty excited about this. Hope to have some pics to post.

If I do get into an ecall, it will probably be a foxpro but I will have to order it or travel to find it. The stores here had a total of 4 calls to choose from including hand and ecalls... this is across 3 stores too. Haha.
 
Practice, the worse you sound the better they will respond. If you can use a turkey diaphragm mouth call, they are more than perfect for ALL sounds you can think of and keeps your hands free. I use the single & double reed turkey mouth calls for most of my coyote calling these days & my shockwave.
 
How do you sound with the turkey call? I have plenty and can use them pretty well. Just squeal and squeak as loud as possible?
 
How do you sound with the turkey call? I have plenty and can use them pretty well. Just squeal and squeak as loud as possible?
Just make your rabbit/rodent/mouse/coyote barks like an animal would. I don't use anything but the single & double reed as the 3 reed, v cuts and other crap are usless for coyote.
Put it in your mouth and turn into the game you want making noise.
They are super for barking, whimpers, ki yis, female invites...everything out there from field mouse to coyote fighting. Changing from squealing rabbit/mouse to coyote barks & back to dying rabbit is quick and sounds exactly like a coyote has caught one and is chomping on it. I also throw crow sounds over it to add even more realism.
I can go for about 3-4 min doing a frenzy of sounds before I need to stop to catch my breath. Slow sporadic calling I can go for my entire set..
The 1st time all my hunting partners heard me mouth calling they said man I though that was a real coyote/rabbit going at it.
 
Just make your rabbit/rodent/mouse/coyote barks like an animal would. I don't use anything but the single & double reed as the 3 reed, v cuts and other crap are usless for coyote.
Put it in your mouth and turn into the game you want making noise.
They are super for barking, whimpers, ki yis, female invites...everything out there from field mouse to coyote fighting. Changing from squealing rabbit/mouse to coyote barks & back to dying rabbit is quick and sounds exactly like a coyote has caught one and is chomping on it. I also throw crow sounds over it to add even more realism.
I can go for about 3-4 min doing a frenzy of sounds before I need to stop to catch my breath. Slow sporadic calling I can go for my entire set..
The 1st time all my hunting partners heard me mouth calling they said man I though that was a real coyote/rabbit going at it.

Thanks, ill have to try that. Didn't get a chance to go last weekend. Rained most of the day sat aad went duck hunting Sunday. But that said, I did keep some wings and going to give the feather on a stick a try.
 
Your approach to setting up a stand is the most important aspect in calling coyotes, not the sounds made...
 
I like the feather on a string for my set up. I'll take 2 hand calls (one for longer distances, one for shorter and of course they have different pitch of rabbit in distress), I always bring my coaxer (way too much fun when they end up in your lap :) ), and a diaphram for hands free calling. Just get out there and settle in then start crying like a baby on your caller. As stated, keep yourself still and expect the unexpected. Try the Shotgun across the lap and the Rifle on the sticks/bipod. In the brushy county here they can and do show up "very" close. Fun part also is you can, and will, end up with a heck of alot more than just Yotes. Think Bear, Bobcat, Deer, Crows, Ravens, Elk. Exciting stuff.

And oh yeah, and if ya shoot, don't stop calling. Get back on that thing for a bit. You'll be surprised at how many double or triples you can get after the first shot. Remember, if ya call, shoot, miss, and they bust ya you've just educated another Yote.
 
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i am always surprised after i shoot, that there was one staring at me the whole time but i never saw him, got spooked more than once. as for other animals, had a friend add a predator hunt to a canada black bear hunt, calling yotes and a cat walked right by the tree. needless to say he almost peed himself and missed the shot to boot.
 
Get hand calls and electronic. I will say my FoxPro is excellent, love the convenience. I started off with hand calls as i couldn't afford the FoxPro.
 
I'm in SC, down the road from you in North Augusta. I've dabbled in coyote hunting the past few years and hope to get more serious with it this spring. I've learned one setup that works pretty good when the doe's are dropping fawns. I'll set up a fawn decoy at the wood line of a field and use a fawn in distress call. Sometimes you will call in a doe but I've got a few coyotes with this setup. I use fox piss as cover scent. A coyote hates a fox and I've been told by a few trappers that just the scent will bring them in sometimes.
 
Backspace- sorry if I'm being especially slow today, but do I know you? I just saw your location, and am not putting a face to your screen name. If not, we need to fix that.
 
Skip the foxpro and get a hand call or two. I like Crit'r Calls. Play the wind, minimize movement when on a stand, and be sneaky walking into a stand...coyotes are smart.

I agree, and don't think I'm hypocritical because I use a WT or foxpro ... here is the reason... ever since we've been posting vids, I get a lot of young kids and fellas who never have hunted coyotes, and ask me what call to get... IMHO Get a hand call, I grew up with a Tally-Ho, and an ol Circe... I personally don't ever recall being taught how to predator hunt, because I was introduced at such a young age 4-5, not to mention being a Rancher it goes hand in hand... From my experience you learn to respect the game and the animal MORE by trying hard and learning on a hand call... it teaches you the fundamentals, you don't just set the caller out there and wait for them to circle it, your the prey when you scream the hand call, your the one who has to mimic another animal with your mouth, you don't just get to push buttons and use every sound under the sun, you will FAIL more, but you will LEARN more... Of course it's gonna be hard work...
 
Concerning shooting at one and missing which = educated yote.

How long does that last? Has anyone on here ever missed or spooked one, and then end up killing that yote later? Later meaning days, weeks, months?

Just wondering if it's probable. I know it's possible.
Thanks
 
only once, went pheasant hunting in KS and went out after dinner looking for yotes. 2 came in right at sun down one was black chested looked like a german shep, the other was the one i actually saw and shot at about 175 yrds. didnt see the black one until i shot the other. next day went out in the afternoon again, and look who came in before sunset. that day he was not so lucky.
 
Concerning shooting at one and missing which = educated yote.

How long does that last? Has anyone on here ever missed or spooked one, and then end up killing that yote later? Later meaning days, weeks, months?

Just wondering if it's probable. I know it's possible.
Thanks

Locations, scenarios, and opinions vary... In my area, we might get em fooled the followin year.

It's possible. Like an idiot I brought 2 friends into one of my favorite sets and they hadn't "called" yotes. Anyhow we had a couple come running in and lost them in the hayfield. Friends jump up and bang away as they run for timber. No yotes dead, none called for another 3 yrs there. That damn spot is 150 yards from my house. I own my part getting busted over the years there and ended up burning that area out for a while. Lot's of opinions, I agree 100%. Rule #1 See Yote, Kill Yote lmao. Have fun and watch the wind, don't break cover, and shoot straight :)
 
Well, it took a long time but I finally made it out this morning to try the yotes. Got to the farm a bit after sunrise. Put on my camo, loaded the rifle, put my phone on silent, and started down the road to my first set. Turned the corner about 10yds down the road from my truck and there were 3 in the middle of the road at about 100 yards. They saw me and took off. I got to the edge of the field and they just never stopped running. Finally one stopped at 750 and I was able to range him, dial and get a shot off. Hit right at his feet. I was kinda happy since it was the first time I have ever shot past 500 with the rifle. Needless to say, he left along with the other 2. Got to my spot and just decided to sit for a while, saw 2 more way out around 800 yards chasing something, I tried calling but they weren't interested. So, that was my first hunt. Pretty exciting and lots of errors on my side. Haha. Did get to shoot some after and have my dope out to 800, so that might help if they come out at the same spot next time and will sit still for a min.
 
My success has gotten WAY better since I've gotten an electronic caller. Having the sound out in front of you is huge for not getting busted. That being said you still have to be still. And remember, SETUP SETUP SETUP!
 
Well lucked up and got this female this morning. Didn't actually call her in, she just came trotting across the field, stopped at 350, bang. Game over. Didn't see anything else after that. It was fun as hell though.
 

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Backspace, congrats on your first kill. Consider yourself officially addicted. I hope you kept a trophy.

Eastern coyotes genetically are very slightly different from western coyotes (all eastern 'yotes have a touch of wolf in 'em) but behaviorally they are very different. And they're as different to hunt as ducks are from quail.

Eastern coyotes on occasion will walk around in the open, but you'll have more opportunities on them if you go into the woods to stir them up. They tend to spend days in thick undergrowth, and it's enough of a chore just to coax them out of the brambles.

A coyote's ears make him curious but his nose makes him comfortable. He trusts his nose explicitly, so he wants to circle downwind to "nose" his prey before he risks an approach. You can't fool his nose. Bathe and launder your clothes in scentless soap, spray the soles of your boots with rabbit urine before you walk in, and then pour a quart of doe estrus scent over your head once you've reached your stand, and if he gets downwind of you, he still will smell the Brussels sprouts you had for dinner three nights before. So you HAVE TO play the wind to your advantage. Every time. If he winds you, you're burned. Every time.

Coyotes have survived so successfully because they'll eat anything, cabbages as well as cottontails. All their senses are keen, and they're wary to the point of paranoid. And the stimuli from every near miss are locked in their memory vault forever. The same tricks never fool them twice.

I have managed to kill one coyote I previously had shot at and missed. Even though it was two years later, I know it was the same 'yote because it was an old dog, its red coloration was rare hereabouts, it was in the same general area, and he was missing the same two toes from his left hindfoot. But my stand was in a different spot, my e-caller was in a different spot, and I was calling using different sounds. So I only got the second opportunity on account of I was using different lures in a different fishin' hole.

But I also have educated probably 50 others. Called them in and they winded me, or spotted me moving, or just plain got the heebie-jeebies and bolted. And I never saw any of them again. Those ones have got my number.

And when they're subject to intense hunting pressures, they breed like rabbits. Litter sizes go up, pup mortality goes down, and females (which normally are monogamous) become promiscuous. So you have little hope to eradicate them through hunting alone. Which is good news if you're hunting them for sport, but bad news if they're preying on your livestock. But hunting pressure will cause them to move off, in search of a safer place to make a living.

I use both an electronic caller (FoxPro Spitfire) and mouth calls. One of the advantages of the e-caller is that it doesn't draw the coyote straight to you. The "experts" estimate a coyote's stereo hearing can pinpoint the bearing to the source of a sound to within 1°. Positioning the e-caller some distance away from your stand gives you better opportunity to get the drop on him without him detecting your movements.

With an e-caller, you can play all manner of strange and exotic sounds, like "Lucky Bird" (a woodpecker sound) or fighting crows (a sign there might be carrion to steal) without having to buy additional mouth calls, and without having to practice to perfect playing them.

I also have a foxjack2 decoy that attaches to my e-caller. It was fairly inexpensive for a remote-controlled decoy (~$50) and the movement is totally random. It draws its power from the e-caller's batteries and isn't particularly rough on battery life. Since it is co-located with the e-caller, the coyote's eyes confirm what his ears already have told him. It's much easier to employ than the decoys I used to use that were based on the weasel ball, FAR easier on the batteries, and the randomness of the movement looks less artificial. Coyotes don't seem transfixed on the decoy like bobcats do, but I do think it somewhat distracts them from their surroundings (meaning me). I've had bobcats walk right up to the decoy, then stand there, sniffing of it. Poor kitty.

I like to set up my e-caller crosswind to my stand. If an upwind coyote tries to sneak past to the e-caller's downwind, as they are prone to do, he's either got to come down my side of it, or on the side of the e-caller opposite to me. I try to play the terrain and vegetation so that the opposite side offers the better concealment in the hope he will elect to sneak down that side. That maximizes his opportunity to U-turn and return to stalk the e-caller from downwind, as is his want, without getting wind of me. If he follows my plan, he'll walk straight into my "kill zone" without ever getting a whiff of me.

If he comes on my side of the e-caller instead, he either runs slap into me, which is a good thing, or he swings wide and puts me between him and the e-caller. Then when he makes his U-turn to return to the e-caller, he winds me and I'm burned. But coyotes rarely appear from the direction you'd expected them in, and the only way possible to lay out a stand so there's no opportunity for him to circle downwind of you is to face into the wind and sit with your back to a river. So the crosswind set-up is what I've come to regard as my least worst option.

I didn't have a coyote coach when I started predator hunting, and I was concerned that if I didn't blow a mouth call correctly, it might scare them off instead of attracting them. So I started with an e-caller. Once I'd got comfortable I knew what they sounded like, through listening to lots of e-calls and real live coyote vocalizations, I started futzing with mouth calls. Sometimes now I'll leave the e-caller behind because I'm going into a spot where I know it just won't be workable, but I never go without a mouth call (two, in fact). Sometimes I play a mouth call in conjunction with the e-caller, typically playing the opposite sound to what I'm playing on the e-caller. IOW, if I'm playing a predator sound on the e-caller, I'll blow a prey sound on the mouth call. Or vice-versa. Double the stimuli, double the curiosity factor.

You can put a mouth call into action as quickly as you can light a cigarette. For that chance encounter, on the spur of the moment, you just can't employ an e-caller as quickly. I also thought that the e-caller's ability to play a wide variety of sounds would be a bigger advantage than it actually is. Most any call I have found productive on the e-caller (and there are only five or so), I also have learned to blow on the mouth call.

Batteries run down, sometimes unexpectedly, everything mechanical eventually breaks, and there are no "waterproof" e-callers. You can't manipulate the buttons on your e-caller's remote AND keep your eyes on the coyotes, but you can change the volume or the tune on a mouth call without ever taking your eyes off the prize (FWIW, FoxPro sells an AR15 grip that lets you control your e-caller without ever taking your eyes off the rifle's sights). Cold temps shorten battery life but they also can cause your spittle to freeze up in your open-reed mouth call. Neither solution alone is perfect. You places your bets and you takes your chances.

I don't think there's an e-caller on the market that costs less than a FoxPro that's worth what you'd be paying for it. And yes, I have tried quite a few of the el-cheapos. FoxPro's low-end model, the Wildfire, is a replacement for the Spitfire. They look almost identical and they functionally are very similar, but the Wildfire holds more sounds (not that I ever thought my Spitfire didn't hold enough -- 24) and has more bells and whistles (more steps to volume level, and the "foxbang" feature). The FoxPro factory still has refurb Spitfires for ~$125, which I think is a steal. Refurb Wildfires are an extra ~$25. Refurbs only come with a 1-year warranty (vice 3 years for factory new), but the device is sturdy built, it only has one PC board, and any e-caller that survives the first year probably is good for at least 10. A Spitfire isn't especially fancy, and it doesn't have enough volume for blasting across the Kansas prairies, but in the eastern woodlands, its performance needs no apologies.

If you get a cheap e-caller without a remote, you compensate for its lack by playing sounds that begin with a couple of minutes of silence. That gives you time to set it up, turn it on, then sneak back to your stand and prepare to shoot before it begins playing. But you can't change the sound or its volume (or turn it off) without going back to the e-caller. None of the ones I'd tried were loud enough to suit me, and all of them had noticeable distortion when played at max volume.

FoxPro's factory sound files are a proprietary (.fxp) format and will not play on anyone else's e-caller, or on your PC. But FoxPro e-callers will play .mp3s and .wav files. You can use a Windoze freeware called Audacity to create custom mp3s, combine existing files, add or remove silence, or make a loop repeating the same sound or alternating between multiple different sounds. I'm a sound file slut and I have collected more than 2000 sound files, mostly on offer free from eight or 10 online web sites. Some are good for squirrel hunting, some are good for turkey hunting, some are good for deer hunting, and some are good for coyote hunting, but the majority of them are good for nothing but spooking trick-or-treaters on Halloween.

Whichever call you use, be ready to bark. With your mouth. Try to sound just like the missus's yappy little lap dog. Yeah, it sounds corny, but they might fall for it. If they're about to trot out of sight, and you're out of position and don't have time to draw a bead on 'em, and you're out of options, bark. LOUD. He just might freeze for an instant, and look back, and that instant might be enough.

Most 'yote hunters I know think 30 minutes is about the right length for a stand. I think the coyotes where I hunt are more patient than that, and 30 minutes is only half enough. Rule #1 of hunting coyotes is coyotes can't read the rule book. YMMV.

Don't get wrapped around the axle about camouflage. Coyotes are red-green colorblind. So are dogs. They see the world in shades of blue, yellow and gray. And their vision is not very acute but they can detect very subtle movements. I know successful coyote hunters who never wear anything but brown Carhartt clothes. All you need is something to break up your outline. And regardless of the color, it should be dull, nothing glossy.

And because they are COMPLETELY unable to see red, don't fret over having to wear blaze orange during big game season. Or any other time. Just make sure there's no sheen on it. I once was in a stand, all cammoed up, calling, hunting in some really thick crap, and I started hearing a turkey caller maybe 50 yards to my back (he wasn't very good, so I could tell it wasn't real turkeys). For some reason, it put me on edge to be sitting in some turkey hunter's kill zone and me dressed like a tree stump. So now I like to wear the blaze during turkey season, as well as deer season. I know one serious predator hunter who swears a red Pendleton wool coat is the best coyote camo there is.

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The color of a red Pendleton shirt looks the same to a coyote as the color of a cedar thicket. And the cross-hatching breaks up your silhouette. And you can wear a Pendleton shirt to the store without looking like a Duck Dynasty reject.

You shouldn't confuse the inability to see a color with an inability to see a thing of a certain color. Just because grass is green doesn't mean coyotes can't see grass. They just can't tell what color grass is. Or your red Pendleton coat.

Eastern coyotes have about a 25-square mile hunting range, so it isn't uncommon for them to range several miles every day in search of a meal. So just because you've spotted one while scouting doesn't mean it lives anywhere nearby. And they will pick up and relocate their den in a heartbeat to move further away from hunting pressures, or toward more plentiful game. So you shouldn't hunt the same spots too frequently. I like a two week cooling period. If you find a "honey hole," best to only hit it once a month or so, else they might pull a Jed Clampett (pack up the whole family and move clear across the country).
 
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