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Bolt grease... Mobil 1, Mobil 28, other stuff?

sentry1

sentry1

Crayon Eater
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 7, 2012
1,991
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Madison, Alabama
I've been doing some reading, and I'm confused as to what grease would be appropriate, or best for use on a bolt. Grease specifically, rather than oil.

From what I've seen, the bolt lugs, and cocking ramp on a bolt require actual grease, as opposed to just a liquid oil.

I have some Mobil 28 from my Geissele triggers, and Mobil 1 has been mentioned. In my readings though, I came across the mention of grease incompatibility, i.e. when encountering other oils (in this case, just the Hoppes lubricating oil I use to lube up the rest of the rifle, raceway, bolt body, etc...) that grease can break down and lose effectiveness.

So, thoughts on bolt grease?
 
I use Tetra Gun, I have tried other bearing grease but be careful of what temp it liquifies. Has some end up dripping from the cocking ramp into my trigger group. Messy.
 
sentry1 said:
I've been doing some reading, and I'm confused as to what grease would be appropriate, or best for use on a bolt. Grease specifically, rather than oil.

From what I've seen, the bolt lugs, and cocking ramp on a bolt require actual grease, as opposed to just a liquid oil.

I have some Mobil 28 from my Geissele triggers, and Mobil 1 has been mentioned. In my readings though, I came across the mention of grease incompatibility, i.e. when encountering other oils (in this case, just the Hoppes lubricating oil I use to lube up the rest of the rifle, raceway, bolt body, etc...) that grease can break down and lose effectiveness.

So, thoughts on bolt grease?
Click to expand...

I use Red Mobil One High Temp, High Pressure Synthetic grease. I use so much on my stuff and clients rifles that I purchase it by the ten pack in tubes for grease guns. For individuals, the Shooters Choice Red Gun Grease in the syringe is perfect. Oils, lithium and or any other thin based stuff just isn't going to cut it. You want a colored high pressure, high temp grease, when you cant see the color any longer it's time for more. The #1 problem I see when rifles are torn down for service is the lack of grease. Those damn grease worms are bad to the bone. It's the life of your rifles guys, your spending $4,000+ on full blown customs and $1,000 or so on some factory rifles, purchase good grease and use it.

The back of the bolt lugs, the cocking ramp and shroud threads in the bolt body are the spots to grease.
 
wnroscoe said:
I use Red Mobil One High Temp, High Pressure Synthetic grease. I use so much on my stuff and clients rifles that I purchase it by the ten pack in tubes for grease guns. For individuals, the Shooters Choice Red Gun Grease in the syringe is perfect. Oils, lithium and or any other thin based stuff just isn't going to cut it. You want a colored high pressure, high temp grease, when you cant see the color any longer it's time for more. The #1 problem I see when rifles are torn down for service is the lack of grease. Those damn grease worms are bad to the bone. It's the life of your rifles guys, your spending $4,000+ on full blown customs and $1,000 or so on some factory rifles, purchase good grease and use it.

The back of the bolt lugs, the cocking ramp and shroud threads in the bolt body are the spots to grease.
Click to expand...

An instructional pic of this would be helpful.
 
sentry1 said:
Why the yuck? It seems to be good enough for Geissele to use. I assume that means it has some merit, especially since an AR trigger is doing a lot more movement than the lugs on a bolt rifle.
Click to expand...

I've seen millions of dollars of damage done because of clay based grease. Though proper maintenance would take care of it, clay based grease made matters worse.
 
Rhyno said:
I've seen millions of dollars of damage done because of clay based grease. Though proper maintenance would take care of it, clay based grease made matters worse.
Click to expand...

I bet you work on Aircraft, I get a kick out of people treating 28 like gold.... but it is good stuff. The problem arises when clay based grease is mixed with soap based greases (aeroshell 7 & aeroshell 33 mixed = problems). Not to mention any other agent (deicer) mixed in to cause a much bigger problem (corrosion).

I continue to use CLP, worked for me in the service and still to this day.... if I need anything heavier I'll use mobile 1 (thin coating).
 
Last edited:
sentry1 said:
I've been doing some reading, and I'm confused as to what grease would be appropriate, or best for use on a bolt. Grease specifically, rather than oil.

From what I've seen, the bolt lugs, and cocking ramp on a bolt require actual grease, as opposed to just a liquid oil.

I have some Mobil 28 from my Geissele triggers, and Mobil 1 has been mentioned. In my readings though, I came across the mention of grease incompatibility, i.e. when encountering other oils (in this case, just the Hoppes lubricating oil I use to lube up the rest of the rifle, raceway, bolt body, etc...) that grease can break down and lose effectiveness.

So, thoughts on bolt grease?
Click to expand...
I use Militec-1 or Schaffers Moly roller chain lube on my bolts, both are plenty slick enough and protect very well.
 
You guys ever try TM bolt grease? TM solutions- I have had really good luck with the shit.. I'm not melting barrels down with maching gun fire.. I know guys that run it hard on ar's and they like it.. Really good on bolt guns
 
I have a new gun coming in and plan on running TW25b grease. It comes in closeable syringes and is a synthetic based grease. I've used some so far on other weapons and it seems to be slick stuff. I'll be running this stuff on a Melonited action and my plan is to run a very light coat on the lugs (maybe raceways if I can get a light coat on them too) but just wipe the bolt itself with a light coat of TW2500. I think it will be extremely slick.
 
Whatever is in the garage at the moment can't remember what it is. Throw some on the back of the lugs and along the other surfaces that ride again metal, a dab in the cocking pieces and call it a day until I can tell that it needs more which is pretty evident.
I'm pretty sure any high temp high pressure stuff will work just fine.

If you really wanna know go ask somebody that has a gone through a good couple barrels on one action and see what they are using.

Somebody should ask Jacob what he uses on his action that has like 100k rounds through it.
 
Funny how everyone praises Mobil 1. Pennzoil synthetic is actually a better oil and lubricant. While I do work for shell, there are many scientific comparisons between the two you can check out for yourself. The cost difference is trivial considering how little you actually use. But anyways if you want the best for your gun or your car, Pennzoil synthetic IS the best oil made today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Pusher591 said:
I have a new gun coming in and plan on running TW25b grease.
Click to expand...

^^^This. I've Run Mil-Comm grease in both bolts and autos for 3 yrs now and it just plain works. It stays where you put it, is very slick, and has very good heat/cold tolerance. I have well over 20K rounds through platforms running this grease.
 
Run down to ya local auto parts store and save some coin
anything labeled GUN you pay out the ass for

Most gun lube/cleaners can be sub by car products just fine and cost way less
GM TEC before they changed formula same as butches bores shine, working slowly thru case of old formula i grabbed before it was no more
Carb cleaner pert much same as bore scrubber

Still if you must have that lil 6cc tube of magic goop labeled GUN ####
your $$ press on
 
I use Enos' "Slide Glide" that is for action pistols. Don't have a reason other than it was layin' around. Seems to work fine.
 
Picked up a tube of synthetic brake caliper grease at the auto parts store today. It is a high temp grease, should work fine, eh? Cost like $4.
 
sentry1 said:
In my readings though, I came across the mention of grease incompatibility, i.e. when encountering other oils (in this case, just the Hoppes lubricating oil I use to lube up the rest of the rifle, raceway, bolt body, etc...) that grease can break down and lose effectiveness.
Click to expand...

Well, most barrel cleaners are solvents, and grease will indeed break down and lose effectiveness in the presence of solvents. I think many of us covered this in junior high science class.

So, thoughts on bolt grease?
Click to expand...

Pick something suitable for automobile wheel bearings, and re-apply it when the rifle is cleaned. No need to overthink the matter, or spend an excessive amount of money. I haven't bought wheel bearing grease in at least a decade because the last container has lasted at least that long, but I'd think that you'll get a lifetime supply for about $10 at the local auto parts store. Buy a quart of Mobil 1 oil while you're there.

Unless someone is running a general-purpose machine gun, firearms are pretty damn easy environments for lubrication. Running a modern diesel for 10,000 miles on a single oil change or a set of wheel bearings for a quarter million miles on the original grease is far tougher than ripping through a few hundred rounds through a precision rifle.
 
I have always used rear axle high pressure grease with, moly. but this past week I was shooting with a guy that works for CAT and he said the best stuff he has ever used is the
caterpillar Desert Gold Grease. it is expense for a tube but the spec indicate it is used for extreme conditions. here are the specs

•Extreme Heat Operation - Performs and protects where ambient temperatures are regularly above 32° C (90°F).
•Extreme Life - High-quality Calcium Sulfonate Complex synthetic base with 5% molybdenum disulfide (moly) delivers unmatched performance in Cat applications.
•Moisture Resistance - Resists washout from fresh and salt water.
•Reduced Component Wear - Resists softening and continues to protect parts under extreme loads and high speeds.
•Corrosion Protection - Resists oxidation and protects metal against rust. Will not corrode or damage steel, copper bearing alloys or conventional seal materials.
•Low Environmental Risk - Is formulated not to contain lead, antimony, zinc, barium, chlorine, phosphorus or free sulfur


I will be looking to try this grease soon

Thanks
Trevor
 
Sentry Solutions; grease on the lugs and cam, their treated "rag" on everything else. Shooting mostly in dry & dusty conditions, works great.
 
You guys are way over thinking this. Just pick up a tube of tetra gun grease next time you're at the gun shop and be done with it. A $5 tube will last you the life of the rifle. There's no need to try & figure out which automotive lube to use, get the stuff that's already designed for the purpose.
 
I use an emulsion(mixture) of 50% quaker state full synthetic 5w50 oil and 50% molybdenum disulfide full synthetic grease. if anyone is going to make up a blend like I did, mixing it together will reveal whether or not the blend is compatible. colder temps may require something like 0w40 full synth and perhaps only 10-20% grease. or less. or more, you choose. After a bit more reading I am going to experiment with tungsten disulfide (WS2), which is even better than molybdenum disulfide(MoS2). both molydenum and tungsten bond to steel, making a very good wear resistant surface. don't apply either one of these to the chamber!
 
Aeroshell 33 is the replacement for Aeroshell 17 both are moly fortified. If you can't find Mobil 28 and just have to have something like it you can always get Mobil SHC-100.
 
This is beginning to sound like a motorcycle oil thread.I started using grease on my M1A, now I use it on every gun, I also started using 10 WT motor oil instead of CLP.I have started looking at guns as a low RPM 1 cyl engine. I prefer the Mobil 1 High temp grease and Mobil 1 0- 20 synthetic engine oil. A true synthetic will always keep a coating of lube on your parts, until you wash it with a high VOC agent.
 
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