Gunsmithing Reamer holder I found...

[BenY 2013]

Found this while searching around for a reamer holder. One of my friends told me he just put the reamer in a Jacobs chuck, rifle shot under MOA, but I think that might have been a one time incident.. So I am going to get a reamer holder. I have looked at the PTG Bald Eagle holder and will quite possibly go that direction. Or would you guys recommend something else to someone on a budget? But I found this one and wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts or experience with it. I know it's a good bit cheaper but I have read one or two good reviews on practicalmachinist. Thanks guys!

Floating Chamber Reamer Holder Gunsmith Tool Clymer JGS Ptg Rifle Gun | eBay

Ben

 

[chipsfan]

Lots of different views on how bores are dialed in and how reamers are held.

I normally use a GTR Tooling fixed reamer holder Gre'-Tan Rifles

I used to (and sometimes still do, depending on the conditions) use a Manson floater, which looks similar to what you linked to: DAVE MANSON PRECISION REAMERS FLOATING REAMER HOLDER | Brownells

Both of them have MT3 shanks and slide into my tailstock.

Back in the day, smiths would put a wrench on the base of the reamer holder and guide the reamer with the dead center in the tailstock. You can read a lot about those techniques in this book: THE COMPLETE ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO PRECISION RIFLE BARREL FITTING | Brownells

 

[MarinePMI]

Cheapest is probably the last one mentioned above, but using a small bent lathe dog to hold onto/guide the reamer while it is being fed in with a dead pilot in the tail stock.

This allows the reamer to essentially "float" and be guided by the bore of the barrel blank.

 

[Jkob60]

lI have a Bald Eagle that I no longer use, tried it a few times and didn't like it. It is for sale , if interested, email me: [email protected]

 

[wtopace]

BenY, I have actually used that holder from Ebay for the last 4 chambers I have cut and it worked just fine. It floats well both radially and axially. I also have a few home made holders (including the bald eagle style that I am not a fan of).

I would recommend it, especially for the price.

 

[BenY 2013]

BenY, I have actually used that holder from Ebay for the last 4 chambers I have cut and it worked just fine. It floats well both radially and axially. I also have a few home made holders (including the bald eagle style that I am not a fan of).

I would recommend it, especially for the price.

So it cuts straight chambers and isn't just a cheap fluke? That would be awesome! I'm all for saving money where I can, but certainly don't want to skimp on quality or function. Thank you for this. And thanks for all the info guys. When I buy the chamber reamer and holder, I am also planning on buying the book that was mentioned here as well. This will be the first time doing this so I need as much help as I can get!

Ben

 

[wadebrown]

I use the one from ebay you mentioned and have had good results from the 4 barrels I have chambered with it. I am a novice installer of barrels (never claim to be a gunsmith, maybe 50 years from now) so I do not have much to compare the holder to, the only results I measure are the results on the target and those have been very good.

A lot of people use and like the Bald Eagle that Jkob60 mentioned, Jim Kobe (Jkob60) did all of my barrel installs before I started to and you can trust him on the purchase if you want to go that way.

 

[Rthur]

I have used the Manson and the PT&G both achieved good results. It seems to me the one that you develop the best technique or are comfortable using to good effect is the right choice.my .02

R

 

[wtopace]

If your holder floats properly, it should follow the existing "hole" in the barrel (drilled and rifled bore). What you don't want is the reamer holder to bind up while chambering and force the reamer to hold an angle against the internal bore. I like to wrap my left hand around the floating holder at the intersection of the 2 faces (where it floats) while reaming, like anything you do with heavy machinery, BE CAREFUL.

I don't claim to be the world's greatest smith, but I can give away a good secret: While reaming a chamber, you should never feel any strong resistance, the reamer should do the cutting work, not your tail stock / floating reamer holder / dead center pusher (yuck) / tap handle (/sigh) / vise grips (I have seen it...) / etc... Just go at a pretty good pace (too slow and you can work harden stainless, I have done it before, not fun), too fast and you can break your reamer. Within the first 10 chambers you cut (probably even the first 5), you should have the feel down. You should be able to easily feel the cut, my best explanation sounds like a 1st grader: bumpity bumpity in a very consistent manner. You control how heavy the "bumps" (cutting the lands) are with your infeed on the tailstock.

Hope this was somewhat helpful!

 

[BenY 2013]

Very helpful info guys! I greatly appreciate it!

Ben