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New guy would like some build advice please.

VoxPatriam

VoxPatriam

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 26, 2014
198
2
Some crappy desert
I'm not exactly new to shooting but I've never gotten into the longer range stuff (600m+) and I got a Remington 700 SPS .308 right before I deployed. I'm looking to get some parts together to build it into my long range hog/deer rifle when I get home. I'm not the kind that will just shoot and hope the animal bleeds out before I get there. In my opinion, hunting should be a clean kill or not at all. So with that in mind, I've got a few parts scoped out and I'd like to get the forum's opinion on if I'm going the right direction or wasting my money. I want the rifle to be a 1000m nail driver. I also plan on suppressing it (and every other firearm I own). The tacti-cool mall ninja stuff makes me gag so if it doesn't have a legitimate function I'm not really interested. Anyhow here are the parts I'm looking at. If I'm completely off base please steer me in the right direction.

Chassis
AICS 1.5 FDE
or
KRG X-Ray

Glass
Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP with a Horus TReMoR2 Reticle
or
I am really open to suggestions here. I firmly believe in buy once cry once, but I'm still working with a budget of about $1K for glass.

Scope mount
Badger Rail
2 Piece QD Rings

I'm not planning on replacing the trigger but I'm not opposed to mirror polishing every surface in there. I did a ton of polishing to my AK and she shoots like a dream (for an AK). Oh and I have a high cut MICH helmet with a bunch of upgrades to trade if anyone's looking to get rid of parts.

Thanks for the help yall.
 
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Wrong questions? What's up? I've read a couple reviews on the AICS stock and Viper PST, but I'm really looking for advice from people who have used this stuff as a combination. Not trying to come off as a jerk, so I hope I'm not. Trying to use the search function as much as possible but maybe I'm using the wrong terminology or something.
Appropriate QD rings for the PST? Split or one piece? Does it matter?
Appropriate MOA base for 1000m with 20" barrel length and Vortex PST? Other scope suggestions within my price range?
Advice for additional bedding with an AICS stock?
Anyone have luck making their own suppressors? I have the tools to do so, but haven't made one for a precision rifle before.
 
A lot of people on here prefer the aftermarket actions like Surgeon, defiance, BAT, and so on. All have great upgrades like side bolt release and integral scope base and recoil lug. Myself personally, I love my rem 700 sps varmint .308. With that said to have a "1000m nail driver" more than likely you will need to get the action trued and a new barrel(krieger, bartlein, brux all make great ones). My rem 700 with factory barrel shoots very well IMO. Sub moa all of the time dipping into .5-.75 when I'm having a foot day(5 shot groups), but on it's best day with no external factors like the one designed to piss is off.... Wind.... It would shoot 5" at 1000 and that's if I make a perfect group which is never the case. Then when you factor in wind SD in velocities and the likes the groups will open up considerably. So having a rifle that shoots sub .5moa would be highly desirable at that distances for a "tack driver". If you can't afford the truing and barrel then you might be looking at bigger groups.
With that said I shoot a 12" plate at 1000yrds with my factory rem 700 action with great consistency. And it is a great platform to learn the art of LRS.
Now with the options you posted I would do this. Krg W3 chassis(AI isn't for everyone and it's definately not for me atleast not the 1.5.). The $1000 price range the PST is a great option as my rem has a 4-16 FFP on it. The scope kind of closes in at 16 power and isn't as crisp at that magnification. So that's something to consider with that high mag PST. The glass is good quality but is far behind NF, USO, Stiener, S&B. I personally like the turrets and there feel but still subpar compared to aforementioned scopes.

Now if you can swing it I would go for the bushnell HDMR models. You can pick one up for around 1250.
Bushnell Elite Tactical HDMR 3.5-21x50mm Rifle Scope Review - YouTube

Now if you want a lower buget stock but you get the same if not better everything for your money I would HIGHLY consider Rock Solid stocks. They are 750 new. I run one and love it! In fact I think there is one for sale on the hide right now so I would jump on it if considering! I will try and post a link. And that lower price point would cover the added cost of the HDMR.


He is a pic of my rig.
image.jpg
(The discoloration on the stock is rain)
And just click the pictures to enlarge them
image.jpg
 
Also I wouldn't go with two piece scope mounts on a stock rem action. There is too much discrepancy in how the front and back will line up so definitely a one piece mount.
For rings I would recommend seekins. They are great and light, the badger mount will work fine but if you go with seekins rings I would just go with seekins rail.
(I run seekins on my rig as seen in the pics)
Also, the weaver 20moa rails have always worked wonderfully for me and for $30 with a integral recoil lug you can't beat it.
 
I would advise against QD rings on a true precision rifle. You might want to look at Bushnell DMR/HDMR optics in that price range as well. I'm a NF fan myself though. I run the AICS in my Remingtons and love them.
 
I'd advise you to buy a base, rings and optic...

And shoot the shit out of that rifle as-is for a while.

Develop a feel for it. Determine what you like and what you don't. At the range, chat with other folks with target rifles and try them out.

Then, when you know what you want without asking us, buy or build it.
 
My advise, buy a used vortex viper pst and be very happy if your worried send it in immediately they will go through it with out question. Take the money you save from it and put it into a timney trigger. Get a good base Badger, leupold, and so on. Get leupold mark four rings used on here.

buying used equipment if done right and save you tons of money.

Shoot and shoot some more. Have fun.
 
HodgdonExtreme said:
I'd advise you to buy a base, rings and optic...

And shoot the shit out of that rifle as-is for a while.

Develop a feel for it. Determine what you like and what you don't. At the range, chat with other folks with target rifles and try them out.

Then, when you know what you want without asking us, buy or build it.
Click to expand...

I agree with this to an extent. I bought my Rock Solid a while ago and it still remains a small company compared to AI, KRG, Manners and so on. So you may love a chassis that not many have a taste for.
 
I appreciate the advice guys! A couple of follow up questions if you don't mind?
Who would yall recommend to blueprint/true the action that isn't going to put me in the poor house? The banker, I mean wife, is already a little peeved about the ~500HP Duramax project. haha I'm assuming (dangerous I know), that it would be a good time to have the barrel threaded/recrowned too. Unfortunately I know I can't afford a new barrel just yet. Is there any kind of truing I need to do to the barrel too if I mess with the action?
Priority for purchases is going first to base/rings/optic, then to a trigger, then a chassis, and then on to the suppressor (unless I just make it myself for ~$275 including the stamp).
As far as the glass goes, I'm still a little confused about getting a scope with a different reticle. I've emailed a couple manufacturers but haven't heard back from any of them yet, but is it not possible to get a scope "blank" and send it to Horus or AI and get the new reticle put in it? How crazy is this process?
I'm definitely liking the $30 scope base idea. I'll look into the seekins mounts and that Bushnell. Thanks!
308sniper147, if you don't mind, what was the turn off for the AI chassis? I'm definitely interested in the new KRG one, especially with the intro price. I looked at/handed a few other stocks when I was in the States, but I definitely like the integral magazine conversion, and the adjustability of the LOP/cheekrest on a lot of the chassis systems. I know that can be done in other ways with pads and such, but I'd rather just do it "right" the first time. Especially since one of my major buy-ins with building this thing is that my wife can shoot it too. She's a good bit shorter than me, but she does love to shoot so I'd be able to take a paint marker to the adjustment knobs in different colors for each of us.
I'd definitely like this to be a learning experience as far as doing as much of the work myself as possible. I'm all about shooting and learning the gun, but there are a few things I already don't like just from dry firing in the prone. I don't like how the stock feels in my shoulder, and (probably a result of shooting CQB style ARs/AKs a LOT) I'm a huge fan of the detachable magazine conversion for the large groups of hogs I'll run into with it. From what I'm reading, inletting the factory stock is a bear though. I'm not terribly worried about it being pretty as it's going to get used in swamps and such. I'm one of those function over form kinda guys.
One more question and I'll shut up for a bit. Promise. This might be about 5 fries short of a happy meal but what is yall's opinion on back up sights? Irons, mini reflex, etc? I've come up on a hog unexpectedly a couple times and I don't want to have to waste time transitioning to my Kimber if I don't have to. Fortunately both of those times I had my Saiga 12 and Kimber 45 on me but it was still kinda unnerving.
 
Get a set of appropriate Seekins rings and a 20 moa base Seekins, Badger, NF, ... Etc all work fine. Look in the options and accessories page here to save a few bucks. If this is going to be gather parts now and put them together when you get back, you should look into the group buys going on for stocks from manners and the new xray chassis from krg. I wouldn't buy anything stock related without getting behind one first. As far as truing the action, if you do it, you will have to recut/chamber your barrel, which I don't think you can do with the factory barrel. There was a guy on here that you could send your sps to and he would do everything but recut the threads on the receiver so you could use the factory barrel until you are ready to get an aftermarket one. I think it was Scout Sniper Supply but I may be wrong. Glass... I am a big NF fan. I have heard lots of good things about the Bushnell hdmr scopes though. A lot of people are enjoying the swfa 5-20 HD a lot as well. Might look into the Sightron as well. They are fairly new and might be a bit of a gamble. Have you researched FFP vs SFP? If not, you should. You will eventually end up spending a lot of money on glass in the future if you really enjoy things. Finally, don't forget all the little things like mags, sling, bipod, ammo, case, shooting mat, sand bag, ... Etc. That crap adds up quick. Especially with aics mags running $60+ and slings about the same. Jump on an atlas to the tune of 200+, throw in a pelican for about the same and we can all see how the banker might get pissed to see that get thrown into the 500 hp diesel with $100 in ammo to go sling down range. Oh and you might want to snag a few steel targets too. It isn't gonna be cheap, but damn if it isn't fun. Haha. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.
 
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One more thing, buy the can now and get the paperwork in. It will be a long wait for the stamp. Might find a few on sale now.
 
Ok so if i get the action trued, the factory barrel has to be reworked or replaced. Good to know. Thanks. I was planning on getting it threaded/recrowned at the same time but I don't imagine that's a cheap endeavor. As for the glass, my major limiting factor is the cost of the glass. Kinda stuck at that $1k mark. Definitely took the time to research FFP/SFP and I'll be going with a FFP. The smaller stuff like slings, bipods, ammo, rear bags, cases, etc I have. Not worried there. I even make my own steel targets. I'm actually really looking forward to getting this gun together. It's just a matter of getting the money set aside and ordering everything. I will definitely be in the market for mags though once the chassis is ordered.
Here's the issue with the can. I'm stationed in Kommiefornia and my understanding is that I am not allowed to own or make a suppressor in CA. Regardless of my status with the military. So I have to wait until I get orders out of there and establish residency in another state to even submit the form 1 to make one.
Thanks for the advice brother. I appreciate it. Oh and the banker really only gets pissed when she doesn't get to shoot too, Once the guns are built she loves em. Just hates paying for em. haha
 
New guy would like some build advice please.

VoxPatriam said:
I've got a few parts scoped out and I'd like to get the forum's opinion on if I'm going the right direction or wasting my money. I want the rifle to be a 1000m nail driver.
Click to expand...
Take the money that you are going to spend on parts, and invest it in a quality precision rifle class. When the class is over you will have your own answers.
 
I would not be opposed to that. However, what would I be shooting at this course since my rifle has no sights at all? I do need some glass on there one way or the other so I figured why not ask the questions of people who sure seem to know a lot more about it than me so that the money I spend is based on more than my limited experience whether that includes a class or not. There will be plenty of time spent at the range and in classes if I can I assure you.
 
VoxPatriam said:
I would not be opposed to that. However, what would I be shooting at this course since my rifle has no sights at all? I do need some glass on there one way or the other so I figured why not ask the questions of people who sure seem to know a lot more about it than me so that the money I spend is based on more than my limited experience whether that includes a class or not. There will be plenty of time spent at the range and in classes if I can I assure you.
Click to expand...

FFP, zero stop and mil/mil are all requirements for me with optics now that I've been using them. ED or HD glass is very nice. I don't think you'll find all of those for under $1K.

Why not skip the expensive chassis, get a drop-in AI mag bottom metal, epoxy bed the stock you already have yourself and take the extra money and buy better glass?
 
Right there with you on the FFP and zero stop. I'm also pretty comfortable with mil adjustments. As far as the chassis goes I honestly had no idea there was such a thing as a true drop in magazine conversion. Every one I've seen requires you to inlet the stock. You have a link to one or a source I could look at? Honestly I thought I could kill three birds with one stone with a chassis as far as the adjustability for the cheek piece/LOP, magazine, and V bedding. I'll look more into it. Thanks brother.
 
VoxPatriam said:
Right there with you on the FFP and zero stop. I'm also pretty comfortable with mil adjustments. As far as the chassis goes I honestly had no idea there was such a thing as a true drop in magazine conversion. Every one I've seen requires you to inlet the stock. You have a link to one or a source I could look at? Honestly I thought I could kill three birds with one stone with a chassis as far as the adjustability for the cheek piece/LOP, magazine, and V bedding. I'll look more into it. Thanks brother.
Click to expand...



There is the Wyatt's system and one other that I can not think of, But I do have one gripe. Whether you have the houge overmolded or the even worse varmint stock remington uses they will flex and touch the barrel with use of a bipod making them not desirable at all for 1000m shots. Just my opinion. If your going with a drop in mag conversion at least get a bell&carlson stock for around $250 new $200 used on the hide. But when you do that your within $100 of the krg X-ray. So honestly I would just get the x ray. Again that's just my personal opinion.


Andrew
 
308sniper147 said:
There is the Wyatt's system and one other that I can not think of, But I do have one gripe. Whether you have the houge overmolded or the even worse varmint stock remington uses they will flex and touch the barrel with use of a bipod making them not desirable at all for 1000m shots. Just my opinion. If your going with a drop in mag conversion at least get a bell&carlson stock for around $250 new $200 used on the hide. But when you do that your within $100 of the krg X-ray. So honestly I would just get the x ray. Again that's just my personal opinion.


Andrew
Click to expand...

From what's being explained to me and what I've read a chassis does make more sense. Not that I'm thrilled about the cost of either a new stock and bedding/inletting/DBM kit, or a chassis, but you have to pay to play right? And from what I can tell the costs of either are pretty dang close as long as you don't go for the super deluxe tacticool sniper hunter killer seal team 6 models off of Arms List.
 
Haha thanks I try.
Any research materials yall can recommend? I'm making good use of the snipers in my unit, and reading the Marine Corps/Army pubs on long range marksmanship. I've also gotten a copy of the Magpul precision rifle series that I've watched a couple times. I'm also reading a lot on here, but if I could be pointed at any particular threads you've learned a lot from I'd appreciate it.
 
New guy would like some build advice please.

VoxPatriam said:
Haha thanks I try.
Any research materials yall can recommend? I'm making good use of the snipers in my unit, and reading the Marine Corps/Army pubs on long range marksmanship. I've also gotten a copy of the Magpul precision rifle series that I've watched a couple times. I'm also reading a lot on here, but if I could be pointed at any particular threads you've learned a lot from I'd appreciate it.
Click to expand...

Dry fire.

Dry fire as much as you can possibly stand, and then dry fire that many shots again, every time you go to the range.

Dry fire at home.

Dry fire all the freaking time.

Do it until the reticle doesn't move at all, not a shimmer, not a budge, nothing, absolutely de nada when you pull the trigger. Not even a hint of a thought of a reflection of a memory of movement.

Dry fire until your friends think you have A Really Serious Problem.

You should be dry firing right now. Stop reading and go dry fire.
 
TwentyFiveTwenty said:
Dry fire.

Dry fire as much as you can possibly stand, and then dry fire that many shots again, every time you go to the range.

Dry fire at home.

Dry fire all the freaking time.

Do it until the reticle doesn't move at all, not a shimmer, not a budge, nothing, absolutely de nada when you pull the trigger. Not even a hint of a thought of a reflection of a memory of movement.

Dry fire until your friends think you have A Really Serious Problem.

You should be dry firing right now. Stop reading and go dry fire.
Click to expand...

I would certainly love to but my rifle is back in the States right now. I do use a boot band regularly to work on trigger pull, but the only option I have out here is my service rifle when we go out for a training op or something (MEUs suck). Reading is pretty much my only COA right now unfortunately.
 
VoxPatriam said:
I would certainly love to but my rifle is back in the States right now. I do use a boot band regularly to work on trigger pull, but the only option I have out here is my service rifle when we go out for a training op or something (MEUs suck). Reading is pretty much my only COA right now unfortunately.
Click to expand...

Have you read Zak's stuff on demigod? I learned a ton reading this back when he first posted it.

Start here:

http://demigodllc.com/articles/practical-long-range-rifle-shooting-equipment/

http://demigodllc.com/articles/practical-long-range-rifle-shooting-optics/

http://demigodllc.com/articles/practical-long-range-rifle-shooting-shooting/
 
Can I recommend the xlr element chassis? I have not shot it yet but will be getting out later this morning and will give you my personal opinion/review if you're interested. That is hundreds of more dollars going towards glass.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1399113521.939436.jpg
 
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