Rifle Scopes Leupold VX-6 4-24x52mm vs. VX-3 6.5-20x56mm?

[armyrgr]

Can anyone out there help me figure out the new scope for my Browning X-Bolt .300 WM. Trying to figure out the real difference between a VX-6 and VX-3. Obviously, I know the 6 has the 6:1 zoom ration but how does that differ between a VX-3 with 6.5-20?

 

[lawman29]

VX-3 6.5-20x56 is the VX3L. It has a 'concave hump' in bottom of objective to allow you to mount the scope lower. 30mm tube.
VX-6 4-24x52. Zero stop, get a free custom bullet drop (CBD) dial, 34mm tube, low profile target style adjustments (the VX3L has them in the target model, but they're taller). TMOA reticle.

 

[armyrgr]

VX-3 6.5-20x56 is the VX3L. It has a 'concave hump' in bottom of objective to allow you to mount the scope lower. 30mm tube.
VX-6 4-24x52. Zero stop, get a free custom bullet drop (CBD) dial, 34mm tube, low profile target style adjustments (the VX3L has them in the target model, but they're taller). TMOA reticle.

I appreciate the information on the two different scopes. I am tracking on all. What I am looking for though, is exactly how these 2 different scopes compare. How would the VX-6 4-24x52mm compare to the VX-3L's 6.5-20x56mm in regards to low light transmission, zoom power, etc. etc. I'll be using this rifle mainly for hunting. Headed to Alaska in a short while and would like something that's able to reach out and touch my targets with ease. I'll be getting the CDS dials for either scope.

 

[lawman29]

The zoom ratio just means low vs high mag ratio (4 x 6 is 24 & 6.5 x 3 is ~20...) nothing more. The VX6 model is brand new, haven't looked through it. I've got two VX3, 4.5x14x40 & 6.5x20x40, 30mm tubes, varmint hunter reticle, both with side focus. They are on a Win 1885 low wall .218 mashburn bee & Ruger #1 22/250. Happy with both.
The best thing about the VX6 vs the VX3's in my humble opinion is the TMOA reticle.

 

[alman1531]

If you are using the rifle for hunting; 6.5x is really high for the low end power for that use. You will have a much bigger field of view with the 4x as the 6.5x; 28ft vs 14.2ft at 100 yards according to the website. So when that trophy game comes out from the tree line, you will be able to pick up that animal quicker in the scope with the wide field of view. Also if you need to reach out, the 24x is better than the 20x. The VX-6 series also has better quality glass. I have a VX-6 2-12x42mm on my hunting rifle and I love the thing. It feels like dropping the target right into your lap. Don't get too drawn into the 52mm vs 56mm if you consider the quality of the glass. Sometimes scopes are designed with a large obj lens to make up for the slightly lesser quality glass. The 52mm with better glass can very well appear brighter than the 56mm with lesser glass. The illumination is also handy for low light conditions were the reticle can get lost in the background. If your shop has both scopes in stock, look through both and see for yourself. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

 

[armyrgr]

The zoom ratio just means low vs high mag ratio (4 x 6 is 24 & 6.5 x 3 is ~20...) nothing more. The VX6 model is brand new, haven't looked through it. I've got two VX3, 4.5x14x40 & 6.5x20x40, 30mm tubes, varmint hunter reticle, both with side focus. They are on a Win 1885 low wall .218 mashburn bee & Ruger #1 22/250. Happy with both.
The best thing about the VX6 vs the VX3's in my humble opinion is the TMOA reticle.

If you are using the rifle for hunting; 6.5x is really high for the low end power for that use. You will have a much bigger field of view with the 4x as the 6.5x; 28ft vs 14.2ft at 100 yards according to the website. So when that trophy game comes out from the tree line, you will be able to pick up that animal quicker in the scope with the wide field of view. Also if you need to reach out, the 24x is better than the 20x. The VX-6 series also has better quality glass. I have a VX-6 2-12x42mm on my hunting rifle and I love the thing. It feels like dropping the target right into your lap. Don't get too drawn into the 52mm vs 56mm if you consider the quality of the glass. Sometimes scopes are designed with a large obj lens to make up for the slightly lesser quality glass. The 52mm with better glass can very well appear brighter than the 56mm with lesser glass. The illumination is also handy for low light conditions were the reticle can get lost in the background. If your shop has both scopes in stock, look through both and see for yourself. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate the feedback. Alman1531, I guess you must have picked up that I was leaning towards that 56mm objective lens! Looks like I will be ordering the VX-6. Unfortunately I don't like either reticles available in the illuminated 4-24x52mm. I'm going to call Leupold and see about getting a different illuminated reticle w/ CDS. Lastly, how accurate would the CDS dials be if I just went off what the box says for my load? I have 5 different rounds, all 180gr. to shoot with a buddies scope to see which round I'll be sticking with. But I'm not sure about finding someone with a Chrono to find the true velocity.

 

[alman1531]

With the CDS dials, if you account for all the variables: bullet weight, BC value, velocity, and air pressure to name a few; you should get close enough to get a hit on the vitals of a deer. Big changes in air pressure due to elevation changes and temperature can have a big impact on the ballistic curve. Check out JBM ballistics and just play around with the variables on the calculator and you can get an idea of how much of an impact changes of a different value have on the point of impact. CDS dials are not meant for long range precision; but are good for intermediate hunting ranges. Personally I have not taken a shot on an animal much past 300 yards. In this range, the CDS dials should work for you if you account for the variables.

 

[armyrgr]

With the CDS dials, if you account for all the variables: bullet weight, BC value, velocity, and air pressure to name a few; you should get close enough to get a hit on the vitals of a deer. Big changes in air pressure due to elevation changes and temperature can have a big impact on the ballistic curve. Check out JBM ballistics and just play around with the variables on the calculator and you can get an idea of how much of an impact changes of a different value have on the point of impact. CDS dials are not meant for long range precision; but are good for intermediate hunting ranges. Personally I have not taken a shot on an animal much past 300 yards. In this range, the CDS dials should work for you if you account for the variables.

I was hoping for about twice that distance with the CDS dials, if not even 800...I know I'm going to have to confirm the dials eitherway. I'm thinking the farther out I go, after confirming I might find that say for example 500yds= 5+1 or 2 turns. Something along those lines...

 

[alman1531]

For distances up to 800 yards, you have to be much more precise with your variables using the CDS dials. You also have to be VERY accurate with your range. I looked at JBM ballistics and a 180gr Gameking bullet going 3000fps has a 14" drop going from 775 yards to 800 yards. So hypothetically you estimate the animal is at 800 yards and it is really at 775 yards, you will be 14" high on target. That could turn a clean hit to the vitals to a miss, or worse a wounded animal. I would recommend going to JBM ballistics and plugging your loads data into the calculator and play around with the atmospheric variables to see the change it has down range. That might mean you might have to get multiple dials for different temperatures if you are hunting at roughly the same elevation. Or be aware of the changes. You can print out ballistics tables on JBM and take them with you on your hunt. I would also recommend an accurate laser range finder if you are going to be pushing those distances. Another thing to be aware of at 800 yards is the bullet flight time. The animal could take a step or move from the time you shot to the time the bullet reaches it. Just something to consider.