Suppressors Questions about Direct Thread Sound Suppressors

[JBM_DC]

So I am thinking of purchasing a direct thread sound suppressor and was curious of a few things.

1. The threads on the can itself are quite a bit longer than what is currently on my barrel. Does this matter? Will it harm the can to use it on my rifle with the barrel not bottoming out?
2. Should I use loctite or can I use a crush washer? If I use the crush washer can I remove the can and re-install it without any problems?
3. I will have to purchase a thread adapter for my .223 bolt action to use the can on it. Are there any negatives to using a thread adapter? The barrel on my .223 is not threaded yet so can I have it threaded to a 5/8x24? to match my 7.62 rifle and can?

 

[Hammertime]

The suppressor should be fine threaded onto your rifle, hand tight, NO loctite, no real need for a crush washer. On the last question, I am a little confused. First you say you will need an adapter, then ask if the barrel can be threaded to match your 7.62. Depending on the diameter of your .223 barrel, I do not believe you should have a problem threading it to match. If you are concerned, bring everything to a competent smith and have him check it all out. Another option is to purchase a ratchet style suppressor and installing a matching brake on each rifle. The threaded version is usually preferred for bolt rifles, but the matching brake might be the way to go, it also opens up use on various AR's. If I was to do it again, that might be the way I would have done it.

 

[Hogshooter]

Q1: You will get carbon build up on the exposed threads. Wont harm anything as long as you are not planning on using the can on another rifle with longer threads. If so, the build up on the threads will prevent the can from squaring up on the barrel shoulder and may result in a baffle strike. The build up on the threads can be a real pain to remove if there have been a lot of rounds put thru it before cleaning.

Q2:I would not want to use Loctite (especially red) as you will want to remove the can when cleaning the barrel. Can manufacturers do not recommend using crush washers or any other type as the may not be the same thickness throughout which would result in a baffle strike.The can was designed to square up on the shoulder behind the threads.

Q3:Thread adapters work great if they are done correctly. I use one to run a 7.62 can on 1/2x28 threads occasionally when my .223 can is being used on another rifle. You can have the .223 barrel threaded 5/8x24 if it has enough diameter. Personally I would thread it 1/2 x28 and use the adapter. If you wanted to sell the rifle in the future the 5/8 x 24 thread may hurt your sale.

 

[lame deer]

My suppressor's have more threads in them than I will ever use. The important thing is to have your barrel threads all the same thread depth so you don't "carbon up" threads you would use if you switch rifles that would have varying thread depths. My center fire rifles have ~ .630 thread depth. I stay away from lock tight or washers, I usually use a bit of anti seize. Generally I have less trouble with my suppressor's coming loose on my heavy barreled bolt actions, my AR type rifles have to watch more closely for loosening up. Several years ago an owner of a suppressor company told me he likes to use Teflon tape on the treads to keep me from coming loose. Haven't tried that yet.

 

[JBM_DC]

Sorry to resurrect my old thread, but I also have another question about direct thread suppressors. When mounting and removing is it important to attach with the same amount of torque each time? I guess what I am looking for is do any of you remove your direct thread suppressors and have success with a repeatable POI shift?

 

[mdmp5]

Sorry to resurrect my old thread, but I also have another question about direct thread suppressors. When mounting and removing is it important to attach with the same amount of torque each time? I guess what I am looking for is do any of you remove your direct thread suppressors and have success with a repeatable POI shift?

You just want to tighten it enough that it shoulders squarely, and that it is not loose as so it will unscrew itself.

 

[nick_charles]

Tag

 

[JBM_DC]

You just want to tighten it enough that it shoulders squarely, and that it is not loose as so it will unscrew itself.

This should give me a repeatable poi shift?

 

[SilencercoJames]

This is one of the main reasons behind the Silencerco harvester design. It is a direct thread can with interchangeable back caps. So you can have a back cap for both of your different thread pitches.

 

[VTSEAL]

It depends a lot on how you use it as well. For high volume, as you shoot it, the barrel and can will heat up and expand at different rates and eventually loosen; you'll have to tighten the can while using it. That can make it tough to get off when it cools. I have found that for some direct thread on cans, a wavy washer or spring washer can help. For me, the wavy washer seems to work better on pistols than rifles. On a hunting rifle, it may not be necessary; screw it on and go...

A wavy or compression washer is also useful to help hold on your thread protectors if you're not using the can... With a muzzle device like a flash hider, you're probably torquing it onto a crush washer; but those thread protectors always seem to work loose, and none of mine have any kind of tool face - they're only designed to be finger tightened.

 

[mdmp5]

This should give me a repeatable poi shift?

poi shift is from the weight of the can on the muzzle. As long as you don't have shit rattling or unscrewing, you will be fine.