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Gunsmithing Cutting new threads

eodusa

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 22, 2008
91
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I hear most builders re cut the barrel threads in the action. But do you remove the old ones completely or just chase them? Does that mean that the shank diameter on the threads are different for every rifle?
Noob here


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You chase the originals oversize and most clean up at about .010" over. I use a pre-made threaded stub gage so everyone I do is the same.
 
So this gauge is home made? One for each type of action? Model70 vs 700 vs sako?


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No need to remove any more out of an action than necessary. I only clean them up to 100% cleanup. No more. Never needed to go a full .010" to clean one up. Yes, every one is different but it's no big deal. It wouldn't matter one bit if it was all the exact same size. Every one is final fitted the last bit so the action fits super tight. That must be the tons of fun. I get tons of fun on the brake end too. Every one is brought down to size very carefully to get the fit as tight as possible yet still work really smooth. Now if I was doing bulk barrels in a cnc to fit premade actions, like a Savage, then it would pay to standardize.
 
Manson makes an ..010" oversize tap for the R700 that squares the threads to the bolt raceways. Works good buy quite pricey. Remember if you go .010" over size your recoil lug (if it's separate) will be too small so you have to enlarge that too.
 
A .010" over sized tap will not correct the miss alignment of the threads in a action in relationship to the bolt bore race way. A single point tool must be used to correct a out of round or angled hole. And this includes the threads in a action. I know this might start a pissing contest but it is simple machining knowledge.
 
A .010" over sized tap will not correct the miss alignment of the threads in a action in relationship to the bolt bore race way. A single point tool must be used to correct a out of round or angled hole. And this includes the threads in a action. I know this might start a pissing contest but it is simple machining knowledge.

You sir are absolutely correct
 
Here's one that wouldn't clean up 100% at 10 thou. In the end, it shot fine but it's still irritating.....This pic is just after dye and a kiss with the single point. ....but you can see it around 4 o clock.


 
A .010" over sized tap will not correct the miss alignment of the threads in a action in relationship to the bolt bore race way. A single point tool must be used to correct a out of round or angled hole. And this includes the threads in a action. I know this might start a pissing contest but it is simple machining knowledge.

The Manson and PTG taps are piloted to the raceway. PTG guarantees as good as or better than single-point.

https://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=74_210&products_id=1417
 
I have always wanted to see someone take 2 recievers, single point one to the same dimensions as the ptg tool, use the same barrel , chambered, threaded ect, screw it onto each receiver and shoot it a bunch,, come up with a statistical difference between the 2 methods,,,, just thinking out loud
 
Better yet. Start with an untrued receiver. Chamber a top shelf barrel and shoot it. Then do the truing and see what we get. I think the results will probably yield a low return on truing as a whole.
 
I have always wanted to see someone take 2 recievers, single point one to the same dimensions as the ptg tool, use the same barrel , chambered, threaded ect, screw it onto each receiver and shoot it a bunch,, come up with a statistical difference between the 2 methods,,,, just thinking out loud

Pretty much has been done by myself and many others before me. I've borrowed and used PTG tooling for a test. After truing a reciever with PTG tooling I cut a test tenon and put the trued receiver on it. I then put the bushings and truing mandrel/reamer in the action and checked runout. Not appreciably different than a single pointed receiver. The PTG piloted taps have a very high positive cutting edge and cut very freely without any (as far as I could tell) deflection. Haven't done the statistical shooting part but if both methods indicate out as true as each other I really doubt you are going to see a difference.
 
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Pretty much has been done by myself and many others before me. I've borrowed and used PTG tooling for a test. After truing a reciever with PTG tooling I cut a test tenon and put the trued receiver on it. I then put the bushings and truing mandrel/reamer in the action and checked runout. Not appreciably different than a single pointed receiver. The PTG piloted taps have a very high positive cutting edge and cut very freely without any (as far as I could tell) deflection. Haven't done the statistical shooting part but if both methods indicate out as true as each other I really doubt you are going to see a difference.
I agree with this statement. If the face of the action and the barrel shoulder are both cut 90 degree's to the bolt bore race way, then that is what gets things line up straight any way. The threads are just to hold it together. But the threads are still not lined up with every thing when they are cut with a TAP.
 
I agree with this statement. If the face of the action and the barrel shoulder are both cut 90 degree's to the bolt bore race way, then that is what gets things line up straight any way. The threads are just to hold it together. But the threads are still not lined up with every thing when they are cut with a TAP.

The PTG piloted tooling is not what I would call just a "TAP" and if the tooling followed the old threads and were not aligned with the bolt bore that would have shown up as radial runout.
 
I guess we will have to agree to disagree on the tap subject.And I have done barrels on actions that have not been trued up and many that have been trued,and I can not really prove if one is better or not,but I do in my own mind think it cant hurt to true things up. And like it has been said many times before there are many other things that make a rifle shoot very well like good barrels,good shooter, good loads,good bullets,and wind flags.But I still stand by my statement that the action face and barrel shoulder are what line things up and the threads really don't matter that much weather they are to loose,to tight or not in coaxial alinement with the bolt bore race way.And yes when I true up action's I do single point the thread's -face and lug's. I do not have the piloted tap or what ever it is called,but I know some smith's use them because it is allot easier than setting it up in a lathe or mill.
 
Yes everyone is correct in a way. In actual groups in the end it's hard to say. If it's a custom and time or money isn't an issue because you have gone this far it's better to single point. If time is an issue because of lathe set up than ptg tool is better. But the bottom line is you have a lot of money in this rig and it's all tore down why not do it right eliminate the variables and single point? If ur not gonna make everything perfectly strait you might as well have a factory gun, I mean shit you got thousands$$$ in this thing have the piece of mind it is strait!
 
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