Rifle Scopes MK6 1-6 Reticles
- Thread starter fmiq
- Start date
what's the primary purpose?
what bullet? does the ammo you plan to use match the CMR BDC?
TMR-D for me. I prefer a quartered duplex crosshair with mil dots/hashes for flexibility.
I don't want to deal with a BDC that won't even match my load.
what bullet? does the ammo you plan to use match the CMR BDC?
TMR-D for me. I prefer a quartered duplex crosshair with mil dots/hashes for flexibility.
I don't want to deal with a BDC that won't even match my load.
I think the logic here is if you shoot factory loads, namely mil spec stuff like lake city then the reticle is going to be dam close. Most other loads i would bet will be minute of man accurate, after all im pretty sure that was the intended use. If you know your holds or have your math worked out ahead of time, and just dial it, i think the TMR is a no brainer.
I agree. TMR is the way to go. I have also been thinking which one to purchase and it came down too the CMR-W is for 175 grain at 2575 fps. I wanted my scope to match my load not the load to match the scope so it came down to the TMR-D. You may also want to change platforms and calibers in the future.
I've completely reconstructed the CMR-W reticle in excel for my AR.
Yes, it is both a vertically and horizontally ballistic reticle... BUT... you can get it to operate on pretty much any caliber, just ignore the distance 'numbers', and rather work off your own rifle's ballistic distances at those hash marks. It's not that hard.
The biggest trick is getting the ballistic wind dots to match up.
You MUST use a ballistic calculator that includes bullet spin drift like the online JBM Drift calculator... as you will note that the wind dots are skewed to the right. So it only works with clockwise twist (i.e. normal twist) barrels. Sorry lefties.
The easy way is to just keep increasing wind values in JBM until the vertical mill elevation = the wind line/dot value at the first wind dot (use the one at bottom of the reticle: 10.77 Mil vertical for the 5.56). This then gives you your wind dot value for your scope, and each successive line thereafter is merely a multiplication of this.
Slightly more difficult, but gives better wind values on all wind dots.
Use the 4th Wind Line and keep running through the JBM software until you get the ballistics to match the vertical mill elevation at halfway down the reticle (4th elevation line = 6.14 mil for the 5.56 CMR-W) and adjust the wind to equal the wind line/dot value indicated by the reticle. You'll probably then realise that the curve of the calculated ballistics doesn't match up with the curve of the wind dots in the reticle. No worries... merely adjust your zero to 'pull or push' it into shape. I know this sounds really weird, but basically what you're doing is comparable to adjusting the angle of a waterfall as it comes out of a square tube by changing the angle of the tube. This has the effect of widening or narrowing the edges of the stream in a 3D manner when viewed from a fixed horizontal point... and hence it works to get the wind values to align to your projectile ballistics. This should get the rest of the values to true-up with the rest of the reticle. Just remember to divide your final wind value by the Wind Dot number that you were comparing it to to get the value of a single Wind Dot. Then just zero your scope at that exact distance.
Also remember that in a ZERO wind situation, that the vertical central post IS NOT your aim point!!... and that you should rather be looking at half way between the +1 and -1 wind dots, as this indicates the predicted path of travel given spin drift. Why Leupold did not show this offset I do not know, as most fair weather shooters like to shoot in low wind conditions.
Yes, it's a complete pain the ass to get this reticle to work 100%... but... once done, and only once, it translates to a ridiculously fast engagement reticle and helps to educate the shooter about better wind calls, as you can literally 'measure' the wind in your first shot.
I'll clean up my Excel document and post it later for review. I'll also see if I can get the data for the 7.62 version and include that as well... then anyone that is interested in the reticle can use the file to 'true' their ballistics to their scope.
Yes, it is both a vertically and horizontally ballistic reticle... BUT... you can get it to operate on pretty much any caliber, just ignore the distance 'numbers', and rather work off your own rifle's ballistic distances at those hash marks. It's not that hard.
The biggest trick is getting the ballistic wind dots to match up.
You MUST use a ballistic calculator that includes bullet spin drift like the online JBM Drift calculator... as you will note that the wind dots are skewed to the right. So it only works with clockwise twist (i.e. normal twist) barrels. Sorry lefties.
The easy way is to just keep increasing wind values in JBM until the vertical mill elevation = the wind line/dot value at the first wind dot (use the one at bottom of the reticle: 10.77 Mil vertical for the 5.56). This then gives you your wind dot value for your scope, and each successive line thereafter is merely a multiplication of this.
Slightly more difficult, but gives better wind values on all wind dots.
Use the 4th Wind Line and keep running through the JBM software until you get the ballistics to match the vertical mill elevation at halfway down the reticle (4th elevation line = 6.14 mil for the 5.56 CMR-W) and adjust the wind to equal the wind line/dot value indicated by the reticle. You'll probably then realise that the curve of the calculated ballistics doesn't match up with the curve of the wind dots in the reticle. No worries... merely adjust your zero to 'pull or push' it into shape. I know this sounds really weird, but basically what you're doing is comparable to adjusting the angle of a waterfall as it comes out of a square tube by changing the angle of the tube. This has the effect of widening or narrowing the edges of the stream in a 3D manner when viewed from a fixed horizontal point... and hence it works to get the wind values to align to your projectile ballistics. This should get the rest of the values to true-up with the rest of the reticle. Just remember to divide your final wind value by the Wind Dot number that you were comparing it to to get the value of a single Wind Dot. Then just zero your scope at that exact distance.
Also remember that in a ZERO wind situation, that the vertical central post IS NOT your aim point!!... and that you should rather be looking at half way between the +1 and -1 wind dots, as this indicates the predicted path of travel given spin drift. Why Leupold did not show this offset I do not know, as most fair weather shooters like to shoot in low wind conditions.
Yes, it's a complete pain the ass to get this reticle to work 100%... but... once done, and only once, it translates to a ridiculously fast engagement reticle and helps to educate the shooter about better wind calls, as you can literally 'measure' the wind in your first shot.
I'll clean up my Excel document and post it later for review. I'll also see if I can get the data for the 7.62 version and include that as well... then anyone that is interested in the reticle can use the file to 'true' their ballistics to their scope.
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