- Thread starter Dave62677
- Start date
Those look really nice. I assume it is a 168 grain in .308 Winchester? With so few rounds down the barrel, that looks really good. Just think, it will only get more accurate as the barrel breaks in!
I just got my LMT 20" Stainless 5R for my LM8 but have not put it on and tested yet, I am aching to do so... Like Nevada said, it should get better with time 
make sure you have the barrel in right . i know that sounds goofy but a few guys have removed them to clean or whatever and when putting them back if it's not just what it's set to be it shoots kinda wacky. I haven't removed my 16 inch CL yet but at 100 yards i shot decent with Irons .
put it this way with my 20" cl LMT.
1.) when I first got it I was getting about 1.25 to 2moa because I didn't know any better, especially using factory ammo
2.) after about 300 to 500 rounds, and me getting more used to shooting the rifle, I was able to get a consistent on average 1.25moa
3.) when I started to reload I was getting 1moa and sub-moa results... it wasn't until I really started to screw around with different types of bullets (like amax and bthp in 168grain) did I actually start to produce consistent sub-moa results.
4.) even to this day, even when I've been able to shoot "sub-moa all day long" on the shootout threads with my LMT (which I think I'm the only one to do it with a .308 AR), I will never say my LMT will shoot sub-moa all day long (that type of shit happens when the stars and planets are in alignment).... I would honestly say my LMT is a .9 to 1moa on average rifle even with reloads, which is saying a lot (correct me if I'm wrong) as I believe my .308 LMT AR still holds the best score across all 3 shootout threads to date regardless of brand name (gap, jp, obr, blah blah blah).
5.) when installing my LMT's barrel, ill make sure my bolts and nuts are 100% bone dry using non-chlorinated break cleaner, torque down to 140, and if it shoots well = try never to touch it again unless I really need to take the barrel back off again. Don't screw with something that is not broke.
6.) I honestly believe LMT CL barrels are amazing friggen barrels, but they have a tremendous break in period..
7.) all of my AR rifles (dpms, RRA, LMT, blah blah blah), all like to be shot differently... some like loaded bipods, some don't... some like sand bags, some don't. I swear, they are more picky than my GF. They are not like bolt actions where you can just get behind the bitch and pull the trigger producing sub-moa results every single time... if you think you're going to do this with a semi-auto, then you're kidding yourself.
1.) when I first got it I was getting about 1.25 to 2moa because I didn't know any better, especially using factory ammo
2.) after about 300 to 500 rounds, and me getting more used to shooting the rifle, I was able to get a consistent on average 1.25moa
3.) when I started to reload I was getting 1moa and sub-moa results... it wasn't until I really started to screw around with different types of bullets (like amax and bthp in 168grain) did I actually start to produce consistent sub-moa results.
4.) even to this day, even when I've been able to shoot "sub-moa all day long" on the shootout threads with my LMT (which I think I'm the only one to do it with a .308 AR), I will never say my LMT will shoot sub-moa all day long (that type of shit happens when the stars and planets are in alignment).... I would honestly say my LMT is a .9 to 1moa on average rifle even with reloads, which is saying a lot (correct me if I'm wrong) as I believe my .308 LMT AR still holds the best score across all 3 shootout threads to date regardless of brand name (gap, jp, obr, blah blah blah).
5.) when installing my LMT's barrel, ill make sure my bolts and nuts are 100% bone dry using non-chlorinated break cleaner, torque down to 140, and if it shoots well = try never to touch it again unless I really need to take the barrel back off again. Don't screw with something that is not broke.
6.) I honestly believe LMT CL barrels are amazing friggen barrels, but they have a tremendous break in period..
7.) all of my AR rifles (dpms, RRA, LMT, blah blah blah), all like to be shot differently... some like loaded bipods, some don't... some like sand bags, some don't. I swear, they are more picky than my GF. They are not like bolt actions where you can just get behind the bitch and pull the trigger producing sub-moa results every single time... if you think you're going to do this with a semi-auto, then you're kidding yourself.
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Thanks elfster for your tips and info
My groups rest of the days
Last groups I tried with blk hills 168 hpbt. The outer shots were black hills. The closer group is hornady tap 168
this is the group i shot with my 16CL a while ago which i had about 300rds
My groups rest of the days
Last groups I tried with blk hills 168 hpbt. The outer shots were black hills. The closer group is hornady tap 168
this is the group i shot with my 16CL a while ago which i had about 300rds
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about the only thing I can add is this
1.) if you think you're going to improve accuracy under 600yards by going from 16 to 20, then you might be kidding yourself. Your extra 4" of barrel will most likely only help by pushing your .308 bullet past 600yards a little bit better (keeping it super-sonic longer / further).... Not improve accuracy under 500yards. My best guess is you're getting an extra 200fps going with a 20" barrel. The 20" barrel will really start to shine if you're pushing 1k plus yards. Every little bit helps when you're working with .308 in comparison to 260 or 6.5 creed.
2.) nice thing about LMT CL barrels once they are truly broke in from my own experience and from what I've seen others do with LMT CL barrels is they routinely produce sub-moa results while being ultra durable. Crazy long life span.
3.) keep switching up your shooting method until you find something that works well / produces amazing results. such as all sandbags, or bipod front / bag rear... don't give up on that bipod tho for real life situations. But when going for bug hole groups / bench shooting & testing what the rifle can really do = switch it up until you find something that works well for you and your rifle.
1.) if you think you're going to improve accuracy under 600yards by going from 16 to 20, then you might be kidding yourself. Your extra 4" of barrel will most likely only help by pushing your .308 bullet past 600yards a little bit better (keeping it super-sonic longer / further).... Not improve accuracy under 500yards. My best guess is you're getting an extra 200fps going with a 20" barrel. The 20" barrel will really start to shine if you're pushing 1k plus yards. Every little bit helps when you're working with .308 in comparison to 260 or 6.5 creed.
2.) nice thing about LMT CL barrels once they are truly broke in from my own experience and from what I've seen others do with LMT CL barrels is they routinely produce sub-moa results while being ultra durable. Crazy long life span.
3.) keep switching up your shooting method until you find something that works well / produces amazing results. such as all sandbags, or bipod front / bag rear... don't give up on that bipod tho for real life situations. But when going for bug hole groups / bench shooting & testing what the rifle can really do = switch it up until you find something that works well for you and your rifle.
What elfster just said, ...
I think what he's described definitely looks to be the case with my LMT LM8 MRP w/ 18" ss tube AND was the case w/ both my 5.56mm MRPs w/ their C/L tubes.
Although I've only put about 150-rds thru the .18" .308 barrel, the 5.56mm 16" tubes did shoot tighter groups over time. Just sayin', YMMV.
I think what he's described definitely looks to be the case with my LMT LM8 MRP w/ 18" ss tube AND was the case w/ both my 5.56mm MRPs w/ their C/L tubes.
Although I've only put about 150-rds thru the .18" .308 barrel, the 5.56mm 16" tubes did shoot tighter groups over time. Just sayin', YMMV.
When I changed my 16" CL barrel to 20" SS it pretty much shot the same sub moa but because of the added 4" got a better velocity. One thing I noticed is my SS barrel cleaned up faster than my CL barrel did. Other than that its hard to beat the 16" CL for accuracy.
Also, try shooting 5 round groups.
My 18" ss and 20" ss beat the heck out of my 16" cl in the accuracy department.
When I received my 16" CL LMT MWS I was at the store when UPS delivered it. Took it out to the range and the 5 shoot 100 yard groups were horrendous, 3-4". When I called LMT the said the store must have messed with it. As they test all their LMT's before shipping them. When I told the tech I was at the store when it arrived and unboxed and their was no way the store screwed with it he asked me to loosen the 2 bolts take one out and re-torque the barrel. I did that , took the LMT out to the range and 5 shot groups now then ran about 1 moa with my match hand loads, I guess this one fell thru the cracks and was never tested for accuracy despite what the tech told me.
So I guess when the poster said make sure the barrel was in right he was suggesting re-torqueing the barrel which is what fixed my LMT MWS.
Another thing that really helped my groups get under 1 moa was replacing the stock trigger which to me was much to heavy for decent groups.
Good luck with your LMT. If ll else fails send it back to LMT with 5 shoot 100 yard exemplar groups.
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