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Help with McMillan stock

JW21

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Minuteman
Oct 5, 2013
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northern CA
So im going to place a order a McMillan A-5 for my remington 700 sps v, but have a few questions.

1. Flush cups or studs and why?

2. Sniper fill or standard fill? Its gonna be used for tactical rifle competitions and static target shooting mainly

3. Integral clamp bar or the thumbwheel varient?

Any input and suggestions would be great fellas
 
I can only help you with number 1...

As the great Ken Lin once said, "Dude, you can never have to many flush cups!"

Who can argue with that logic?

-Blake
 
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Hi JW21,
I am patiently waiting for delivery of an A3 near the end of the sixth month so will have a go at answering these to pass the time.
1. Flush cups or studs and why?
I went with flush cups because they are just as if not more versatile and do not protrude when not in use. You may want one sling stud for a Haris bipod but there are adaptors available.

2. Sniper fill or standard fill? Its gonna be used for tactical rifle competitions and static target shooting mainly.
I went with standard fill as I read somewhere on SH that the heavier sniper fill would not do much for recoil on a 308. It’s mostly for heavy recoil guns.

3. Integral clamp bar or the thumbwheel variant?
I went with the integral clamp bar option as I was told by a friend who should know that the saddle type shoots loose and the thumbwheel type is only good for square range shooting.

Most important if you want it in this lifetime is to get the order in, you will have a number of months to cogitate on your choices.
Hope this helps, if anyone would care to expand on these please do.
 
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JW21, I've had an A5 on my sps-v and my custom R-D Precision rifle for about 2 years or so and love it. The ergonomics of the stock are great and I'm sure others will agree... and hopefully you will too. I initially bought mine for the looks and wasn't sure on the same decisions you are thinking of.

1. I went with flush cups and studs because I wanted to decide for myself which would work best for me. In the end I removed the studs and replaced it with a rail to attach my Atlas bipod. The flush cups are a great option and like RicochetWA said, they do not protude when not in use. Its a great way to attach a sling and keeps the sling out of the way when using the rifle.

2. I went with the sniper fill mainly because it seemed like everyone else was going this route. The added weight is nice, but don't feel it was necessary with a 308. It does make the rifle feel very sturdy but Mcmillan stocks are built strong so I think the standard fill will do fine as well. When I order my next stock it will be the standard fill.

3. I personally will opt out of either choice and have a KMW loggerhead cheek piece installed instead. I've heard as well that the saddle type shoots loose but I don't have experiance with the integral or thumbwheel variant. The KMW system is SOLID and does not have any parts that will shoot loose. The only negative is its not as quick to adjust as the other systems seem to be. But once you set it to the height you need it, there's no reason to have it adjusted.

What ever you decide, you can't go wrong with this stock. Here's my sps

 
Flush cups are nice for sling attachment. I always opt for front and back on the left side (or whatever opposite the bolt handle) and two on the bottom. This gives me good options for carrying and positional shooting. If you're going to attach a Harris or other swivel mounted bipod, get a stud in the front of the foreend. If you're going to attach a pic-mounted bipod (ie. Atlas), get a pic rail on the front of the foreend.

Sniper fill is unnecessary to most people, in my opinion. Standard fill will be much nicer to carry, shoot offhand/positional, etc. My inclination is that sniper fill would be nice on a heavy recoiling gun, but not much use on a .308.

I would opt for the integral clamp bar. It's far simpler and far quicker than the thumbwheel. This is nice because you will most likely have to remove the cheekpeice to remove the bolt. The KMW Loggerhead is a nice option, as well, but I don't consider it a huge upgrade versus the McMillan option. Going with McMillan's version will save some time and money as opposed to having the stock sent off again to get the KMW installed. I have both the KMW (on a Manner's) and the McMillan, and both are rock solid once tightened down. The KMW is adjusted via allen key and the McMillan has a thumb screw.
 
I hope this helps:
#1- Flush cups on the side and studs on the bottom.
#2- Standard fill as you will have plenty of weight the handle the 308 with the adjustable stock option
#3- KMW loggerhead or the integral clampbar
 
Thanks for the help guys. Im ordering my stock today here's my configuration
A5 standard fill 75% od 25% black
1 stud and 1 flush cup on the forend and a flushcup on the butt
Integral clamp bar cheek piece
Decelerater pad
Inletted for badger DBM
 
JW21, I've had an A5 on my sps-v and my custom R-D Precision rifle for about 2 years or so and love it. The ergonomics of the stock are great and I'm sure others will agree... and hopefully you will too. I initially bought mine for the looks and wasn't sure on the same decisions you are thinking of.

1. I went with flush cups and studs because I wanted to decide for myself which would work best for me. In the end I removed the studs and replaced it with a rail to attach my Atlas bipod. The flush cups are a great option and like RicochetWA said, they do not protude when not in use. Its a great way to attach a sling and keeps the sling out of the way when using the rifle.

2. I went with the sniper fill mainly because it seemed like everyone else was going this route. The added weight is nice, but don't feel it was necessary with a 308. It does make the rifle feel very sturdy but Mcmillan stocks are built strong so I think the standard fill will do fine as well. When I order my next stock it will be the standard fill.

3. I personally will opt out of either choice and have a KMW loggerhead cheek piece installed instead. I've heard as well that the saddle type shoots loose but I don't have experiance with the integral or thumbwheel variant. The KMW system is SOLID and does not have any parts that will shoot loose. The only negative is its not as quick to adjust as the other systems seem to be. But once you set it to the height you need it, there's no reason to have it adjusted.

What ever you decide, you can't go wrong with this stock. Here's my sps


That rifle looks awsome!
 
Well called Mcmillan and placed my order. I ended up getting the pillers installed on it as well. The people at Mcmillan were very helpful and friendly. Very pleased with the service
 
Well called Mcmillan and placed my order. I ended up getting the pillers installed on it as well. The people at Mcmillan were very helpful and friendly. Very pleased with the service

If you are right handed, get cups on the left side. It makes carrying the rifle with a sling much more comfortable, and positional shooting with a sling easier than torquing the rifle with your attachment points on the bottom. Leave your bottom cups if you want but add some to the side. I have several with side and bottom but the last few I have ordered were with rail, and two cups left side. You can always remove the rail and screw in a stud than you have all your bases covered for which ever bipod you use. Its much cheaper to do it now than decide down the road you want to try something different and have to send it back for re-work. Trust Me, I've done it both ways.
 
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The KMW Loggerhead is a nice option, as well, but I don't consider it a huge upgrade versus the McMillan option. Going with McMillan's version will save some time and money as opposed to having the stock sent off again to get the KMW installed. I have both the KMW (on a Manner's) and the McMillan, and both are rock solid once tightened down. The KMW is adjusted via allen key and the McMillan has a thumb screw.

HISTORY OF THE McMILLAN Clamp Bar:
For almost 2 decades McMillan produced and shipped adjustable stocks with cheekpiece hardware that had performance issues. They had many complaints but made no efforts to improve their hardware. None.

In 2002, KMW started beta testing its own hardware and installed over 100 of the early models with great results.
Because of the very positive results, KMW designed and started using custom CNC parts for this hardware in 2004.

After shipping many stocks with no hardware installed and seeing the performance of the KMW hardware, McMillan asked for samples of the LoggerHead hardware and quantity pricing.
KMW shipped hardware samples and pricing to McMillan in January 2007.

McMillan asked KMW for pricing on individual pieces of the hardware. KMW declined to sell only parts of the hardware. Reason is that it had and continues to have a stellar track record in the field and works well because all parts are machined and finished by design to have a lot of consistency and surface contact with the other parts. Mixing this with rough machined or raw parts would likely cause a performance issue down the road and fingers would be pointed.

Within months of receiving samples of the KMW hardware, McMillan management had pretty much copied the concept and was putting it into production as their new Clamp Bar hardware.

Ultimately, McMillan refused to do anything with their hardware for years but started losing profit on hardware installs and having more pressure because of the KMW hardware. Only then did McMillan decide to do something about it. Unfortunately (for me), the decision was to take a design proven by another company and incorporate it into their own offerings. Since then, they receive kudos on it's performance and comparisons are made between it and the hardware it was copied from.

CLARIFICATIONS:
You are incorrect regarding time. Shipping a stock from McMillan without cheekpiece hardware saves a complete step with McMillan's production and the stock moves into finishing faster. KMW installs on new adjustable stocks takes 7 days or less to turn around.

You are incorrect regarding money. Ordering an "adjustable" stock from McMillan but specifying that no hardware be installed results in the stock being invoiced at the same price as a Non-Adjustable stock. The KMW hardware is $125.00 which includes a lifetime warranty on the hardware and install. End result is roughly the same or less total cost.

INVITATION:

I invite you to have McMillan send you a set of the hardware that goes into their clamping bar installs. I will send you a set of the KMW LoggerHead hardware. Then you take pictures and look at the setups. Then make your decision regarding the KMW hardware versus the McMillan for your same money and time.

Best regards,
Terry
 
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If you are right handed, get cups on the left side. It makes carrying the rifle with a sling much more comfortable, and positional shooting with a sling easier than torquing the rifle with your attachment points on the bottom. Leave your bottom cups if you want but add some to the side. I have several with side and bottom but the last few I have ordered were with rail, and two cups left side. You can always remove the rail and screw in a stud than you have all your bases covered for which ever bipod you use. Its much cheaper to do it now than decide down the road you want to try something different and have to send it back for re-work. Trust Me, I've done it both ways.

Thanks for the heads up. I ended up getting a flush cup on the left side for the reasons you stated. I also got one on the bottom as well as a stud. Im not sure if I can add anymore since I already placed my order.
 
Is the Kmw hardware just a drop in replacement?

No sir.
One major inlet cut (KMW-ACP-1) can be specified on your McMillan workorder at no additional charge. Once received by KMW or any installer, the bottom of the cheek piece will need to be milled with a rectangular pocket that allows the upper assembly to fit flush. Additionally, a cut will need to be made in the stock for the lower assembly clamp cross bolt. Upper is then fit and held with 4 screws. Lower assembly is positioned and held in place with permanent adhesive.
 
Terry,

I believe I owe you an apology. I stand corrected on both counts. Thank you for taking the time to educate me. I'm sorry to hear about your less than stellar business experience with McMillan, and that will influence where I spend my money in the future. I also want to clarify that I wasn't bashing the KMW system at all, in fact, I prefer it to McMillan's version. However, I assumed there would be a price and time difference that would not justify (for me) choosing the KMW over the McM. Clearly, I was wrong in that assumption.

I took the time to gather some pictures from my McM and KMW systems. Unfortunately, I don't believe I have the persuasion to get McMillan to send me a sample of their hardware, although I would indeed love to do a comparison in that sense. All I have are the systems installed. Sorry for the poor quality pictures, but it's getting late and I don't have time to set up a light box or edit the photos. I think this will work for educational purposes.

In all the pictures, the tan marble is a McMillan A5 with a McMillan clamp bar system. The coyote tan is a Manners T4A with KMW hardware. Both were installed by the respective stockmaker, although the paint on the McM's clamp bar system was done by me, which is why it is wearing off so badly. The McM has also been used significantly more. The first three pictures show the installed clamp bar area. They are quite similar in appearance and function (I suppose for the reason Terry mentioned earlier), but not identical.

Notice that the McMillan sits below flush, while the KMW sits flush. Of course, we can also see that the McMillan is thumb nut adjustable while the KMW uses an allen wrench. I don't believe it should be too difficult to convert either to the other. As an aside, the McMillan thumb nut is quite sharp and I've learned to avoid letting my arm rest on the area while carrying the rifle. The KMW has a longer slot, which seems to make the adjustments easier and tighter, although it's hard to tell since the adjustment methods are different. The KMW appears slightly beefier from the top view (the McM only goes until the slots, but they painted the entire area black, making it hard to see). Not apparent in the pictures is the depth of the clamping surface. The McMillan clamp is approximately .5" deep, while the KMW seems to be around 1". This means the KMW has approximately double the clamping surface as the McM. Take it for what it's worth, they both seem to lock tight for me.







The next picture is a shot of the underside of the actual cheekpiece. We see that the McM sits proud of the surface, which allows it to drop into the lowered cavity we discussed earlier. The KMW, again, sits flush (actually slightly below flush). The KMW has a very nice E-clip system to maintain the height adjustment and prevent accidental slipping if the screw works loose. This works very well. The McM comes with no such system. I added a drill stop to one of the posts (visible in the picture) which accomplishes the same thing. If my adjustment had been a little lower on the McM, I wouldn't have been able to use the drill stop as it would've been too thick. All in all, the KMW E-clip works far better.

The side-to-side adjustment on the KMW is accomplished by using an allen key to rotate the posts and loosen them. This allows the user to slide the posts in order to get the cheekpiece where he/she wants it. The only downside is that the cheekpiece must be removed to loosen/tighten the posts. I simply get the posts moderately tight, install the cheekpiece, make my adjustments, then tighten the posts again. Not a big deal, especially since I tend to run my cheekpiece mostly centered.

The side-to-side on the McM is accomplished through the top of the cheekpiece. This makes it easy to adjust, but leaves unsightly holes on the top of the cheekpiece. I don't care much, but some people might. I've never had a problem with the holes contacting my cheek.



We can see the side-to-side adjustment on the McMillan, as well as lack thereof required by the KMW.



And finally, what both look like installed. I won't say much on this, as it's mostly aesthetics. I prefer the more streamlined look of the KMW, though.





I should also note that I had issues getting the McM tight enough with the thumb nut originally. Greasing the threads fixed that issue. Both seem to be good quality, but the design of the KMW is more elegant and refined.


Well there you have it, Terry. My comparison of the two. I prefer the KMW overall. My main point previously was that they are both functional. I've had my McMillan for a long time and love it. But now knowing the price break down of the two, I would opt for the KMW for my next stock, hands down. Sorry to the OP for extended response, but hopefully some people will find the information useful.
 
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Thanks for the heads up. I ended up getting a flush cup on the left side for the reasons you stated. I also got one on the bottom as well as a stud. Im not sure if I can add anymore since I already placed my order.

You can change the order until they begin that portion of the work. This means flush cups, swivels, pic rails, etc. can be changed until your stock is nearly complete.
 
You can change the order until they begin that portion of the work. This means flush cups, swivels, pic rails, etc. can be changed until your stock is nearly complete.

Thanks for letting me know. It looks like im placing a call to mcmillan tomorrow.
 
After you place your initial order they will send you an email attached invoice in about 4 or 5 month so you can verify the order. That will give you a chance to change the specs if there was a mistake on the receiving end or if you want to change initial order.
 
Temp9, I apologize if it looked like I was ranting at you in my first post.
I did quote you in the response but it was meant as a reply to address the general forum regarding a lot of assumptions regarding this topic. So I'm sorry if it looked like I was specifically banging your post.

Nice pictures and write up by the way. I would like to add a couple of small things to your post please.

Thumb wheel vs. Allen wrench: The KMW hardware was originally designed from the ground up for working rifles. Minimal entry points for mud and minimal or zero protrusions to catch on gear or obstacles during movement. Thought being that there is no reason to remove the thing unless you are pulling maintenance on your rifle in which case a hex wrench would likely be handy. NOTE: The cross bolt is a ¼”-28 bolt that has the same thread as most action screws and is also the same standard wrench drive size as most out there.
With more and more competition and hobby shooters wanting a “no tool” release. Am going to have a run of clamp knobs made. I hate knurled knobs with a passion! This is the design for the add-on. It takes way less effort to lock and unlock versus a round, knurled knob. It is also dome shaped to minimize snag points. Production version will be matte black anodized 6061-T6.

Clamp Differences: I believe the McMillan clamp is cut with water jet. Thus the decreased depth of the part. Also water jet creates a less uniform hole the deeper it goes. The KMW is a custom extrusion that is finish machined on all edges and also has the two anchor holes finish reamed prior to anodize. Just one of the reasons viewing the bare parts prior to installation would show a lot of difference.

McMillan leaving the upper assembly hanging below the cheekpiece and counter-sinking the clamp is directly inherited from they way they setup and cut all of their other Integral Adjustable hardware. It is fast and easy to do it that way without requiring close tolerance cuts to match everything up.

“The only downside is that the cheekpiece must be removed to loosen/tighten the posts.” - - This is technically not the way the KMW hardware was designed to be used. The instructions and most installations call for having a ¼” through hole exit the bottom of the stock so that a hex drive wrench could be inserted through the bottom of the stock with the cheekpiece in place. The legs could then be loosened and the cheekpiece repositioned as long as the clamp was disengaged. The legs have a hex drive machined into the bottom of each and takes the same 3/16” wrench that works on the clamp.

Manners and some other installers happen to not cut the bottom holes at this time for some reason.
The fitment of the KMW upper assembly into the cheekpiece and the clamp into the stock in your pictures is a little different than most installs. Manners uses this hardware as OEM in all their adjustable stocks and their installations have proven to be bomb proof. However they use installation cuts and clearances that are best suited to their production needs. I will try to find some images to post of other installs.

Thanks again for posting the write-up.
 
Just to be clear, I continue to do a lot of business with McMillan.
Most of the people there are top notch and are a pleasure to do business with.
I also trust them to build the raw SENTINEL stocks that I build all my rifles off of and provide to other builders.

The decisions outlined above were not made by the employees I routinely work with.
 
Hey Terry,

Great info and background on the KMW. I had it after-market installed in my A4 and love it. I'm one of those idiots that wanted a tool-less adjustment for the cheek piece and was going to go with the (damned) knurled knob as it was really the only option I saw. Do you have a timeline on when your new clamp knob may be available? and how would I find out when it is?

I'll buy from a fellow Louisianian whenever I can ;)
 
This is what I have settled on and it works very well.





I am looking at two different methods of manufacture. Hope to have it out in mass within 2 months. No price yet.
Thanks much.
 
I've been waiting for a new Mc Millan A-5 since July of 2013. Turns out the rest of my parts arrived FAR quicker than the stock and I was lucky to find basically the stock I had ordered,listed for sale here on the hide back in November. It had the KMW system already installed. I was unsure of KMW but bought the stock anyway.

The entire system is so well designed and executed that as soon as my new stock arrives it's headed out for the conversion.
Whats the cost to install the KMW hardware on a new A5?

Temp9 and Mr. Cross.....Thanks for the education on the system. And especially for taking the time to post all the great photos.

FN in MT
 
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Thanks Terry,

I'll check back on your site in the next few months. I'll admit I am completely embarrassed that I never made the connection between your (rifle) shop and the KMW hardware. (face palm).
 
This is the only picture I have on my drive of what the new knobs will look like when in place on a stock.
The one shown is raw and in the white. Production will have matte black anodizing. You can't appreciate the dome shape and profile from this view but it is more conformal than an off the shelf knurled knob setup.

 
The entire system is so well designed and executed that as soon as my new stock arrives it's headed out for the conversion.
Whats the cost to install the KMW hardware on a new A5?

FN in MT

FN, see post #13 in this thread for price that KMW would install for. Note that there are also others that may install this hardware so you may want to shop around. The only installs that I can schedule in my shop would be on new stocks molded as Integral Adjustable and with no other hardware installed. Preferably with the KMW-ACP1 inlet cut. Many customers have McMillan drop ship the stock straight here for the hardware install. I do several every week, then ship to the customer or the customer's builder.

Stock Doc in California handles everything from new installs to converting fixed comb stocks and old hardware conversions. Super work and very fair pricing.

Thanks,