Wait what?? When did you hear that? I’m about to give up on my 6.5 barrel, and I’d really rather not have to.
- Thread starter jim996
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Maybe you got the AI's that are made on Tuesday and I got the ones made on Friday afternoon cause I've only bought small number(3) compared to your large lot and yet all of my factory barrels close on a no-go guage.
Thanks for the explanations, but I'm aware of the definitions and pressure issues rain can cause. Where I'm confused is why you consider a pierced primer a different issue from a blown primer?
That's news to me!!! Last I heard was when Mike from mile high said in a pod cast that there is no small firing pin AXMC just a month or so ago...
Because they're two conditions. If it's all the same there wouldn't be two separate definitions.
Pierced primers are a different issue from a blown primer. Blown primers are straight up overpressure events. Pierced (or “blanked”) primers are cured by (not caused by) having a tighter firing pin fit to the firing pin hole, and apparently having a smaller OD pin helps as well.
There is clearly something happening with the 6.5CM type cartridges that isn’t directly related to pressure, because my AXMC has zero problems with my hot .300WM loads, or with .338LM loads, but put that 6.5 barrel on it and shoot even a mild handload and it’s pierced primer city. It isn’t protrusion, I bought a gauge and my protrusion is .042” which is right at the bottom of spec.
I don’t know WHY it happens, I just know it does.
There is clearly something happening with the 6.5CM type cartridges that isn’t directly related to pressure, because my AXMC has zero problems with my hot .300WM loads, or with .338LM loads, but put that 6.5 barrel on it and shoot even a mild handload and it’s pierced primer city. It isn’t protrusion, I bought a gauge and my protrusion is .042” which is right at the bottom of spec.
I don’t know WHY it happens, I just know it does.
Are they separate issues though?
I mean... pierced, leaking and blown primers are all symptoms of primer flow. Since all the pressure is pushing it backwards and it's supported by the bolt face there is only one place the primer can flow. Which is into the firing pin hole.
Are you really trying to tell me that you can say without fail that every blown primer is always from over pressure and every pierced primer is from the firing pin whole being to big? What about leaking primers... what causes that in quality virgin brass well within spec?
Dtac posted it in the AI Facebook group last week. Apparently they had a few on order
Nice, thanks for the info!!!
Guess I get to ask Mike not only what's a combine, but when are the SFP bolts coming in next time I call.
There’s one thing I know about all this: if you think you have a 100% understanding of why something happens, you’re probably wrong.
All I know is that in 20+ years of precision rifle handloading and shooting, I’ve only pierced a primer with a 6.5CM. I’ve smoked plenty of primers for several reasons, most of which I can trace back to overpressure of some kind, or a soft case head.
All I know is that in 20+ years of precision rifle handloading and shooting, I’ve only pierced a primer with a 6.5CM. I’ve smoked plenty of primers for several reasons, most of which I can trace back to overpressure of some kind, or a soft case head.
Not sure what you mean by "smoked", but the rest is fair...
I've run into pierced, cratered, flattened, leaking and blown primers from pressure back in the day when I was determined to run the ragged edge on every cartridge I reloaded. How, when or why a primer chooses to blow out of the case vs just crater or pierce from pressure still doesn't make any sense to me... I also can't explain why the 6.5 creedmoor has caused me more issues with leaking, cratered and pierced primer pockets from mild loads than any other...
Hence why I ask questions when distinctions start being made. It would be nice to learn how others have determined that certain signs can be attributed to one specific event or another.
I’m curious as well. The last time at the range a buddy was chronoing his MC with Prime 6.5CM and was getting light cratering and mid 2900 FPS when it was 80-90*. I now own the MC and will be chronoing soon. If I’m still getting high speed I’m going to reach out to Jim at Prime and see if they changed their load.
Man that’s definitely a disappointment! Guess the info I saw wasn’t accurate.
Having said that, I still am running 6.5 creed in my axmc with prime ammo and Barnes 127 LRX with no issues so far.
Are you getting ANY weird looking primer strikes? I was getting light “cratering” with my Prime. I reached out to Jim and he said they hadn’t changed the load. I chronoed some FGMM 140 at 27something and had similar primer “cratering”. After that I’m thinking I might just have a sloppy firing pin
I’m getting holes, if you consider that weird.
My primer looks like this regardless of load. 
At first glance I didn't see much cratering in that photo though it's kinda hard for my eyes to tell with the way the camera handled the glare.
Can you feel the raised ridges as you run your finger over the case head and primer? If so, can you feel the entire circle or just part of it?
Any reason as to why the used SFP on post-2014 ATs and AXs, but not on AXMCs? Seems kinda foolish to me. Sure, you could get them bushed, but why leave that up to the customer?
I can catch my nail all the way around both the Prime brass and the FGMM 140 brass. These are the speeds I was getting.
I should add it’s a 26” barrel and it was low to mid 80s
They have a reason. IMO, it’s a stupid reason, and I wasn’t told I could share it, so I wont, but they do have one.
Since there's at least one gunsmith that will bush the firing pin hole in an AI bolt and reduce the firing pin diameter to SFP diameter for less than $200, this shouldn't present much of an obstacle IMHO.
LRI small firing pin mod
Yeah, but I’m not cutting on an 8,000 dollar rifle. And since I have all three bolts, that means I’d either have to have all three bolts bushed ($600+) or buy a new firing pin/safety assembly for the 308 bolt only ($675 plus $200 for the bushing job).
Really, you don't trust Long Rifles Inc?
Only the .484 boltface bolt would need modification, but modifying all 3 would cost less than replacing a single bolt if you chose to do all 3.
I'm sending my AX bolt to LRI with absolute confidence.
Only the .484 boltface bolt would need modification, but modifying all 3 would cost less than replacing a single bolt if you chose to do all 3.
I'm sending my AX bolt to LRI with absolute confidence.
Please report back! I’m interested to see/hear how everything goes? Any before complaints? Or just bushing to stay ahead?
IMO, an MC is ideal if you plan to use long action cartidges primarily.
By the time you get the more expensive large tennon short action barrel, bolt, firing pin assembly, bush job, and mag adapter/mags you are in striking distance of a used dedicated short action AI which uses less expensive small tennon barrels.
By the time you get the more expensive large tennon short action barrel, bolt, firing pin assembly, bush job, and mag adapter/mags you are in striking distance of a used dedicated short action AI which uses less expensive small tennon barrels.
Right.....update on the original topic. Got my licences back in the post this morning so I'm going to order the AXMC next week 
I need some advice on the muzzle brake and AI silencer please if anyone can help me?
I'm ordering the AXMC as a factory order so I will receive the long action rifle but with the .308 barrel / bolt / magazine adapter etc.
I need to know if AI use different muzzle brake and silencers for the different calibres? As I plan to add a .300 win mag and possibly the .338 barrel later I only want to buy one muzzle brake and silencer if possible.......do I need to specify the .338 muzzle break and silencer in my order on the .308 barrel or is it one size silencer for all calibres with AI? Thanks.
I need some advice on the muzzle brake and AI silencer please if anyone can help me?
I'm ordering the AXMC as a factory order so I will receive the long action rifle but with the .308 barrel / bolt / magazine adapter etc.
I need to know if AI use different muzzle brake and silencers for the different calibres? As I plan to add a .300 win mag and possibly the .338 barrel later I only want to buy one muzzle brake and silencer if possible.......do I need to specify the .338 muzzle break and silencer in my order on the .308 barrel or is it one size silencer for all calibres with AI? Thanks.
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Right.....update on the original topic. Got my licences back in the post this morning so I'm going to order the AXMC next week
I need some advice on the muzzle break and AI silencer please if anyone can help me?
I'm ordering the AXMC as a factory order so I will receive the long action rifle but with the .308 barrel / bolt / magazine adapter etc.
I need to know if AI use different muzzle breaks and silencers for the different calibres? As I plan to add a .300 win mag and possibly the .338 barrel later I only want to buy one muzzle break and silencer if possible.......do I need to specify the .338 muzzle break and silencer in my order on the .308 barrel or is it one size silencer for all calibres with AI? Thanks.
There's some AINA barrels being done 5/8-24 but over there everything should be their standard metric thread and brake. The AI brakes fit up to .338 so you don't have to specify. They used to offer their brakes that accept their suppressors but I don't know if they still do. If you're in the UK and can get one of their suppressors you may want to order it this way if you can. The brakes are basically the same but the suppressor mount one has a little threaded nipple sticking out of the end.
My rifle is coming from the AI factory in the UK with the .308 barrel rather than the .300 or .338. I've heard that the AI silencers and muzzle breaks are all .338 size but i'm not sure if this is correct? I'm going to order with with the Tac muzzle brake so I can add the silencer later but I guess my question was is there just one size of brake and silencer or do AI make a different break and silencer for each calibre......I just want to buy the one if I can and then switch it between the barrels
They all fit up to .338...
Thanks....that's what I needed to know......so I can buy one silencer and brake and use it on 4 barrels........good news.....my wallet will be smoking enough from buying the rifle....
You’ll wind up buying more than one brake. It’s a PITA to switch one brake from barrel to barrel.
Opinions vary. I think it’s a pain in the dick. Plus I know my zero doesn’t shift if I’m not messing with the muzzle device.
That’s what I did.
Right......decision time......I can have an AX308 26 inch barrel in Dark Earth colour delivered within a week or I can wait 16-22 weeks for a factory ordered AXMC long action in .308......
This is killing me.......my head says the short action will be everything I need for targets and hunting and I can easily add a 6.5 creedmore barrel for really long range target......my heart says be patient and wait the time for the big dog long action.......
The price difference is £1247 between the 2 rifles......not a huge amount of cash but significant as I'm having to buy everything I need (mounts, drag bag, bipod, cleaning kit, reloading kit etc etc etc)......
What do I do? I think I'm leaning towards the 308 because I can get it now and get half a seasons extra shooting rather than the AXMC in Nov/Dec when the weather has turned crap (I live near the Scottish Borders).......our winter is LONG!
Advice please!
This is killing me.......my head says the short action will be everything I need for targets and hunting and I can easily add a 6.5 creedmore barrel for really long range target......my heart says be patient and wait the time for the big dog long action.......
The price difference is £1247 between the 2 rifles......not a huge amount of cash but significant as I'm having to buy everything I need (mounts, drag bag, bipod, cleaning kit, reloading kit etc etc etc)......
What do I do? I think I'm leaning towards the 308 because I can get it now and get half a seasons extra shooting rather than the AXMC in Nov/Dec when the weather has turned crap (I live near the Scottish Borders).......our winter is LONG!
Advice please!
Try not to let time influence your decision(I know, easier said then done) and think of what you really want. If you think 308 and 6.5 is enough then get the short action. But if there’s a chance it’s not I would get the AXMC. I know all about long winters but in the long run if it’s really what you want, the wait will be worth it. It’s taken me a while but I now have an AXMC of my own and I love it.
Get what you want, once you do, you’ll forget about the time and money used to get it.
At least thats what I tell myself saving for an AIAT.
At least thats what I tell myself saving for an AIAT.
Don't know much about the AI rifles, although I tried one out once it was just about the most amazing piece of firearms hardware that I've ever seen. You're making a smart decision to buy quality up front.
As for SA vs LA, the 7-08 or 7-08AI would get you pretty darn close to a mile, if not there, in a SA. Not much more recoil than a 6.5 and way less than a 300WM or other LA cartridge.
But if you ever think you'd get serious about ELR, you do need the LA option. If 1,500 yards and in would satisfy anything you'd ever possibly want to do, then SA with a 7-08 or 7-08 AI should get you there. JMHO
As for SA vs LA, the 7-08 or 7-08AI would get you pretty darn close to a mile, if not there, in a SA. Not much more recoil than a 6.5 and way less than a 300WM or other LA cartridge.
But if you ever think you'd get serious about ELR, you do need the LA option. If 1,500 yards and in would satisfy anything you'd ever possibly want to do, then SA with a 7-08 or 7-08 AI should get you there. JMHO
If you are only going to run the SA calibers then it's probably best to go with the standard AX
But if you think there is any chance you will seriously be wanting the bigger cartridges, get the AXMC just to be safe.
Most competitions run SA style calibers, and only break into the big stuff for very long distance work or hunting large animals.
But if you think there is any chance you will seriously be wanting the bigger cartridges, get the AXMC just to be safe.
Most competitions run SA style calibers, and only break into the big stuff for very long distance work or hunting large animals.
Has anyone owned both the short action and long action rifles. I would be interested in hearing peoples comparisons of them shooting short action? Most of my shooting is going to be target based up to 1000 or 1200 yards. My gut says the AX308 is probably the nicer rifle to fire short action?
I do have a 2500 yard range within 85 miles of home though so I would have somewhere to let the .300 or .338 stretch it's legs but maybe only a couple of times a year.....
I do have a 2500 yard range within 85 miles of home though so I would have somewhere to let the .300 or .338 stretch it's legs but maybe only a couple of times a year.....
If you have a 2500 yard range around and you're even remotely thinking of taking advantage of it, I'd get the AXMC without question.
More or less same situation here. I went for two rifles covering 100% of my needs. A custom SA I mentioned earlier and a 300 nm based on Barrett MRAD. Cash-out wise was the easiest path and altough it will take some more time, was the best plan for me.
I’ve owned the AT, shot friends SA AX, and now own an AXMC. They all shoot wonderful. There is a little longer bolt pull back on the MC, but it’s not really noticeable to me. If you have a long range that close to you I would defiantly get the AXMC. Your going to love shooting that far.
I have both the short and long action models. There is really no difference other than a slightly longer bolt throw and having to swap some parts. If you can only have one, go long action.
Close on an AI no-go gauge? Or close on PTG (other company) gauge?
- Mar 15, 2018
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Long action gives you the most versatility and probably worth the wait. As far as your original question, no you’re not crazy. That’s a fantastic rifle (personally I’m waiting on a Cadex Defence Kraken to be built) that will provide a lifetime of enjoyment and can be handed down to the next generation and beyond. It’s an investment, not in the sense of appreciating in value, but an investment in something tangible, of intrinsic value that can be passed on to your children and your children’s children.
I see far too much emphasis at times as to whether someone “needs” something or is somehow “worthy” of it. Bullshit. I have an expensive watch that tells the time no better than a Casio, a car that will go 150 MPH that will never see anything over 80 and a lot of really nice firearms even though I am far from the best shot in the room. I have these things because I had the means to acquire then, I enjoy them, they give me pleasure to own them and I will eventually pass them on to my heirs.
You only live once as the saying goes, buy what you want and can afford and if that happens to be the “best” so be it. I’d rather learn how to shoot as well as I can using the best rifle then toil away a lifetime trying to master a poorly built one.
I see far too much emphasis at times as to whether someone “needs” something or is somehow “worthy” of it. Bullshit. I have an expensive watch that tells the time no better than a Casio, a car that will go 150 MPH that will never see anything over 80 and a lot of really nice firearms even though I am far from the best shot in the room. I have these things because I had the means to acquire then, I enjoy them, they give me pleasure to own them and I will eventually pass them on to my heirs.
You only live once as the saying goes, buy what you want and can afford and if that happens to be the “best” so be it. I’d rather learn how to shoot as well as I can using the best rifle then toil away a lifetime trying to master a poorly built one.
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