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Well, I was going to tell you all about how much better the 7rm is vs the 300wm for ELR but then I decided to go back and check my notes. What I found when comparing my current 7RM load to my friend's current 300wm load is that his starts out with significantly more power and by the time it gets...
"I'd keep uping the charge until you find pressure (0.5 grain increments or smaller). I've read the published maxes for the 7mm rem mag are pretty light (as with many of the older chamberings). Once you find pressure start backwards looking for an accurate load."
It makes me feel like a...
"I'd agree with that. While the 2736 might not give you a great dope at long range I would says it should be within 100 fps of what you got and not the 3000 fps you are hoping for. Maybe you could try H1000 (if you can find any)."
Respectfully, I don't think powder is my problem. This gun has...
"For the velocity calculators to back calculate you really need to shoot a lot farther than 300 yards. The longer the distance the more accurate they will be, try stretching it out and see what you get."
That's where it gets hard. Ranges past 300 are a PITA around here. Think dense forest and...
Tigerfan
Same point of aim. No turret correction.
I used a large piece of paper. Shot at 101, walked out and moved same paper to 295.
I also used two different calculators, and checked my numbers many times.
I guess 2700 it is
I will retest to be sure though.
Makes me wonder how much...
I really really don't trust this chrono.
I did a drop test with the 71.5 load. Bipod, bag and hand for rear.
101 yards 0.47" group
295 yards 3.20" group :( Pretty sure I flinched a little bit.
12.25 inches drop.
Temp 32F
28.6 inhg
No wind
This works out to 2736 fps, not 3100 the chrono...
I'm not so concerned about flinching. I just find it very stable on the sled. I have a bipod but I need to get a bag or something for the rear. I find I just cant hold it as still on a bipod, which is fine for practice but I hate having human error in load developing.
You are not the first...
The only reason I am still fighting with these bullets is because a friend's Tikka T3 7mag is shooting these same bullets from the magazine with amazing results. But at the end of the day no two guns are alike. I suppose maybe I should finally put these VLD's to bed but I really want to be sure.
This is a fair question that I even ask myself from time to time. I am using a lead sled for development and I shoot a lot. I've put about 580 rnds through this particular rifle since august. I don't flinch very often and I know it when I do.
I could really use some help here with my load development. I've been chasing the white rabbit for months on end. I just get a good load, take it back to the range and it turns into a crap load. I've decided to try and work on finding 'nodes' instead of groups. I downloaded this target here...
I don't think tip deforming is the only problem to watch out for. With some seating stems the VLD bullet will be seated via the tip or part way between the tip and the ogive. This poses a problem because the VLD's are very sensitive to changes in the distance from the ogive to the lands. Its...
Honestly I haven't re-visited it yet. I decided to anneal because I was having a hard time getting consistent neck tension but I think I've solved the problem by setting up my lee-collet die differently. I've never had a neck split in either 7mm RM I own so maybe I don't even need to worry...
Good
-Other Reloaders
-Internet knowledge base
-Record keeping
-Measuring seating depth from the ogive not the tip.
-Bump gauge
-Brass tumbler
-Ladder Testing
-Big pieces of cardboard - Free... Target $ is adding up
-Good boots for walking down range (I wonder how many miles I've put on at the...