Recent content by hdmunger

I can't see enough of your build to come to any conclusions or observations...

the comb is the cheek rest, and the RPR like the AR needs a decent amount of rise in the scope mount because its basically level from the rail back to the cheek rest (not slanted down like a standard rifle stock).

Your welcome

No problem. Looks like you can get a 1/4-28 tap on Amazon for less than $4...at least in the US...

My guess is they are either 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 (I haven't dissassembled my RPR in a few years). If you have a set of calipers, measure the diameter of the bolt...it should be at or just under 0.2500" (6.35mm). If you don't have calipers, measure with a ruler...the difference from 1/4" and the...

I'm not sure what the question was in the previous 3 posts, but on the one above that... The 1/8" rod he refers to is the one coming out of the wood block on the right side of the first attached pic in his post. The rod goes through that drop hole to hold the case in place, then it is pulled...

If you can return the 600W to AliExpress, and get the larger supply, that would indeed be best.

Something to consider (let smarter people chime in before deciding), I have read that you can run 2 power supplies in series to increase the output voltage, but can you run 2 supplies in parallel to increase your amperage? I only mention this, because it may be cheaper to get another 48V/600W...

Based on the picture of your power supply, it is only rated for 12.5 amps. May not be enough. I only base that on the current draw that my 1000W/48V ZVS board pulls. When I was using a 1000W/48V/21A power supply, it was about 14-17 amps, now I am using a 1500W/48V/31A power supply and it...

We need more info...pics, basic circuit schematic, components details, how your running the machine...otherwise, it's a shot in the dark... ps - mosfets are parts on the zvs board

Either of those should work, and since the coil connectors are attached to the circuit board, they can probably be attached from the bottom of the circuit board by reversing the hardware...this should keep you clear of the top side components (a short standoff for each connection will give you...

Another option is sugar, it dissolves easily as well. Also, when I made mine, I wrapped it with fiberglass sheathing on it, but since it shredded badly, I picked the pieces out of the coil. I was left with a coil that looks almost exactly like yours and the sheathing gave me excellent spacing...

Will you take the same $50 the one above went for? If so, then I am interested. PM me.

I may be wrong, but you might be saying infrared sensor when you mean proximity sensor...I think each uses a different effect to trigger the sensor...

I talked about it in post 488 - https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/homemade-induction-annealer.6966638/page-10#post-10054158 At least thats how I did it...others can chime in...