Recent content by jrsnell

I have a Griffin Reece 5 that I move between several AR15 barrels and a couple of bolt guns. Plan to get the 30 cal Reece soon. My suppressor has zero POI shift, is very comfortable to shoot and cleaning is near non existent. And that’s with me shooting a couple thousand rounds through it...

Oil is not finite at all. In a pond with just a few surface acres we can grow enough algae to harvest a continuous stream of oil, without killing the algae. That brand new oil does not contain the impurities found in the millions of year old subterranean oil, and so does not require refining...

Thank you for reminding me why I so rarely post here, or anywhere, for that matter.

With exceptionally long ogive bullets, sometimes its impossible to load them to magazine length. When you try, there isn't enough bearing surface touching the case neck. You can use a bullet comparator to determine the location of the start and end of the bearing surface. Make yourself a...

Lots of good info, but no real facts. Thats why I wrote Snell’s Notebook. No opinions, just facts. ES and SD depend on uniformity of deflagration (the way the powder burn progresses as pressure increases). Aberdeen Proving Ground found that loads with enough powder to act like a solid push the...

My understanding is you want to achieve 750F on the neck, and not exceed 450F below the shoulder.

I may be wrong because it’s been a couple of years, but heating the salt bath like that will produce a lot of lethal gas. The info was in the instructions. A second problem with the salt bath technique is timing. Heat migrates quickly in brass. Even using a metronome isn’t precise enough.

Its not trash talking to point out that salt bath annealing does not work for rifle case necks because the rate of heat transfer is too slow, and the end result is a case with too soft a shoulder and maybe the body too. Anybody want to by my Salt Bath Annealing tools? Flame annealing has...

The stop collar will be set to the muzzle-bolt face length. With a round inserted to touch the lands the point of the bullet stops the rod so the collar is above the muzzle by COAL minus the amount the bullet point enters the cleaning rod female screw. So to get precise put something on the end...

Yeah, that. Make sure there is enough media that the loaded ammo always has a 'buffer' - eg don't overload the media. Only takes a little while to remove most types of sizing lube. In my situation, because I've already wet tumbled with stainless chips the cases are bright and shiny and gooey...

My 204, 5.56, 308 and 6.5 CM 1/2 MIA loads don’t seem to care. After all, it’s only a few minutes. Probably not as intense as factory ammo being shipped.

The Hornady tool is easily deformed. Do not over tighten the screw that locks the rod. Doing so leaves a more or less permanent dent that will affect where the rod licks in the future. The bullet must only just touch the rifling. Best way I’ve found us to very lightly lube the ogive with sizing...

Ammo that I production load on my Dillon gets manually deprimed, trimmed, chamfered, primer pocket uniformed (once) using the Frankford power tool. Then annealed, wet washed with Southern Shine (won’t get into flash holes) and Frankford cleaner (or detergent) and dried in Frankford dryer. These...

If you are interested in some before and after barrel surveys, very similar to your own to use for comparison please visit https://snellsnotebook.us/ShootingProjects.html and click the ‘Barrel Survey Listings by Firearm’ link about mid page. The 6.5 CM is a Ruger Precision. Fire cracking opens...

If you used Locktite RED then getting the joint (where the threads meet) to > 300F will likely work. If you used Locktite GREEN then you need > 500F at the joint. If you used RockSet then you probably will damage something because the heat requirement is far too high. Try a chemical and...