Recent content by Longtrain

Well it took a while, but I think I’ve got the Dasher on the right road. I have been loading N140 under WS2 coated 105 Berger BT’s. After breaking in the barrel, I started them just off at the rifling. Charge weights started at 30 grs and moved up in .3 grain increments. This was done with...

I put a new barrel on in the fall and it’s still in the break-in process. I have generally only used Lapua brass, but added 200 pieces of Peterson to the mix. Nice brass, I had to turn their necks as my chamber neck is only .2704, smaller then the .272 Peterson recommends. Using alcohol to...

From Rifleshooter.com. “Annealing is a process that heats the brass case to make it softer and more ductile, effectively reversing the work hardening process.” The neck, shoulder and the area just below the shoulder are affected, NOT the base. Annealing the base could result in bad things...

I will agree that Imperial Wax can be inconsistent, but I found that the amount used has a direct effect on the amount of shoulder bump. Additionally, annealing cases lends to more of an accurate bump, as brass spring-back is very minimized, if at all. The mixture of non-annealed cases and too...

I clean my cases in SS chips, not pins for about 1/2 hour with a shot of Dawn and Lemishine. I have Dasher cases that have been loaded at least 20 times with no ill effects. As far as bullet welding, I have used Neolube #2 on a Qtip and swirl inside the case mouth before charging the case. It...

Since the same gunsmith makes my barrels, I spin them on. I have PT&G go and no-go for all my calibers. The Go gauge & tape may work for a no-go, but I could probably screw that up somehow. Besides it being the correct way to do it, you get a bit of satisfaction and peace of mind that it’s set...

I know this is a few years old, but as a Tikka 595 fan, it may become useful to someone. My engineer buddy, made me an action wrench for my 595, my gunsmith has the thread patten and dimensions. He makes me barrels and I spin them on, no fuss no muss. I’ve had mine since 2004, 5 barrels and...

It still turns Iosso “Black”, the flush helps cleaning it up. For the results, it’s worth it.

That’s the stuff, I believe that it is Iosso in a little lighter viscosity liquid. It comes with a “flush” for cleaning out the cleaner. I use Iosso blue nylon brushes, a little more money, but worth it, they last longer. I use ThorroClean with just the brush and also with a wrapped patch. All...

I’ve got enough 223 and 223AI formed Lapua for a while. But, I’ve got 200 pieces of Starline in reserve in case Lapua goes scarce.

I use Wipe-out and Patch-out (same thing different delivery methods) and let them soak for a bit. Following this which I believe loosens carbon, I follow up with ThorroClean using patches over nylon brushes. Spotless…

I used LC when I competed in XTC with an AR service rifle and match rifle. Basically you’re shooting at a 2 MOA 10 ring, variations in case weight didn’t matter, except for 600 yd SF, then you used either Lapua or weight sorted brass.

I have a load for my 223 using AA2495 powder, it fit in Lake City cases with room to spare. In Lapua 223 Match cases it came up 2/3 the way up the neck. It was too much of a compressed load IMO.

When you measure your fired cases and then resize them, how much are you bumping the shoulders? What’s the difference between those measurements? I only move mine .001-.002 max. That load doesn’t seem extreme.

I used the COW method. I used 8 grains of Bullseye powder topped with either Cream of Wheat or corn meal, topped with a small patch. Making them is a little pain. I place the rifle in my cleaning cradle at the range and run them through one after another. Run a patch down the barrel every 10...