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You won't likely get 3/4 at 50 accuracy. Maybe 1.5" until you change the trigger, bolt, and barrel. You can have a factory gun reworked to make it a sleeper, Randy at CPC does that. Otherwise get Kidd parts. Or VQ, or really any reputable brand. Kidd components are a never look back option.
Well if the threads are borked don't use the barrel, obvioulsy. Sounds like you have good accurate threads now. Of you try to shim it I think that will just cause problems with the threads building carbon. You will compromise either the cans thread, or the barrel thread, or both. If you look...
Thats a surefire ryder 22, mine is the same way, it is bottoming out on the outside edge of the crown. I think they did that to stop carbon intrusion into the threaded area. Just leave it
Now that I see the issue better, that extension is the problem. No matter what you do it won't be reliable like that. Gonna have to send it to seekins for a new barrel or to replace the extension.
Lots of good flow through designs. My only advice is do not get a dedicated 556 can, I would always suggest getting one with the ability to shoot other calibers so you are not confined. At least get a 762, the sound increase is negligible most times.
I can see the issue better now that you showed the dimension differences, thanks for that. You can see how if it was a 308 being loaded it would miss the breach face due to being higher. Correct to say that the ramp should have been left higher so it lifted the round more?
The question I still have is...is the feed lip supposed to contact the bullet or the brass? Does it guide via the bullet, or the brass case? Is it both? I can see how the bullet would make some contact momentarily. So if the mag feed lips are plastic and the spring is loose, and the mags...