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Recent content by Oldmauser

  1. O

    Oryx Bag rider

    Update: I dissasembled the bag rider since it adds torque to the stock. I feel it is better to slide the original oryx in the bag than with a bag rider due to vector of recoil force.
  2. O

    How to get a load in 50 bullets with Gordon's Reloading Tool (GRT)

    Is there a chance for a shortcut in finding obt? Why not take the predicted obt node charge of powder as reference point and load 25 bullets- 2 charges above and 2charged below the predicted node in 0.2 increments? Wouldn’t be simpler?
  3. O

    6mm BR

    I have on 28" 1:8 rig chambered for 105 hybrids that I shoot up to 800yds. However for a 100y competition I was thinking about going 22" with a 1:8 spare barrel that I have. It's a BR score competition. What do you think?
  4. O

    6mm BR

    it has if you know short range benchrest twist rates and bullets weights.
  5. O

    6mm BR

    Having a 1:8 barrel that I want to use for a 100y competition, what would be your barrel choice? I would like to kill the harmonics with stiffest barrel possible and decided on 22" barrel, but predicted velocity is 2750fps with N140. What barrel length would you go with? I know 1:8 is not ideal...
  6. O

    6mm BR

    N150 is slower than n140. I am using n140 with great results in f-class. For my short 22” 6br I am switching to n135.
  7. O

    BAT M vs Borden BRMXD

    BAT is a bigger company, Broden is still a boutique. On both actions I can get LPRB ans so on, so it indeed comes down to lead time. I probably buy the one that I can get quicker.
  8. O

    BAT M vs Borden BRMXD

    Pricing is almost identical. Intended use: F-open. Difficult choice. Do you guys have experience with both and could help me out? I plan left port right bolt righ ejection, 1.25. 28" tube.
  9. O

    6mm BR

    Where do you guys find the node for 105gr Hybrids using N140? I am usually within 29.7-30gr but will be testing 31-31.3 to see how it groups. 1:8 twist.
  10. O

    What Is a good rifle for competition?

    if competition is your goal: 1. 2k for a rifle is minimum minimorum 2. you have to reload 3. buy best optics you can afford.
  11. O

    Suggestion for someone just starting with reloading

    On calipers. Reloading is an art of making ammo repeatable in every way. Weight, CBTO etc. Don't save money on calipers. In Europe you have 2 kinds o calipers- the popular mechanics calipers and the calipers that are certified to meet certain norms like ISO 13385-1. Buy the latter.
  12. O

    Suggestion for someone just starting with reloading

    If you plan to reload for competition- ask yourself what does it mean. If you plan to win with the top guys at your club or county or state, you have to switch off a "money saving mode" in your brain. You need best equipment money can buy. That means buy once cry once philosophy is the only way...
  13. O

    Great results with N555

    Nice group. How far off the lands?
  14. O

    Recoil comparison

    I had the same dilemma 10 years ago. Bought Tikka varmint in 308. The recoil was awful even with the muzzle brake. Sold it and built a custom rifle- 16lbs in 6.5CM with a muzzle brake. Recoil is not a problem any more.
  15. O

    Rifle Cleaning

    1. There are different levels of carbon fouling. And there is a carbon ring... 2. The level of carbon fouling depends heavily on your shooting routine and pressure in the chamber (hot loads). If I shoot PRS or other stuff where time is a factor, my HV barrel gets really dirty. Especially after...