Recent content by ptm121

This is the solution. You already have a modular can system - utilize it, and don’t add more interfaces that are possible sources of mis-alignment or failure.

The S&W Victory SW22 is affordable and a total tack-driver. It is available threaded. Much easier take-down than the Ruger.

What are you trying to accomplish? Wylde chambers are only subtly different than a standard .223, and you aren’t going to notice a lick of difference. If you have freebore issues, running a piloted freebore reamer in there would be a much better solution than a Wylde reamer. And yes, HS gauges...

I agree; sounds like they are doing a great job to make sure you have a good tube. You should post up the barrel maker... although I assume it’s “brand X” ;-)

Yup, 5/8-24 is pretty small for that bore. It probably had some residual stress in it, and belled out at the muzzle when you threaded it. Chop it and thread it to the largest diameter that you can (at least 0.750”), and check the bore before/after with gauge pins. It’s worth owning + and - plug...

That’s about it. FWIW, I settled on SK Pistol Match for the CZ 455 in the stable. It’s quite accurate, affordable, and has a great BC. I can reach 400yd without holdover, which I can’t do with most other ammo. I tried 50-100rd each of at least a dozen kinds of ammo when making that selection...

Right. Paying for any machine work on a barrel kills the idea of a Rem-age.

Getting the reticle level to the rifle doesn’t really matter. Just eyeball it, or use the feeler gauge stack. For guns that get shot from a sling, I level them while in the sling position, since that often produces a natural cant. For a scope mount or chassis system with integrated level...

One nice thing about feeding in with the cross-slide is that you can use the DRO to check DOC. Or, you can set the cross-slide to 90 and then use the dial with no trig conversion. I don't care about that, because I do it this way: 1) Cut the relief 2) Touch the threading tool off the OD, and...

How long are we talking? What ranges are you ahooting? 6.5 is going to beat .308 ballistically at any barrel length. Unless energy is a factor, go 6.5.

Thanks, Steve.... I'd skipped right to the definition and not read the beginning. Doing a little poking around, I'd missed the news last fall that small arms are to be removed entirely from ITAR. That would be fantastic, and downright rational.

This doesn’t help most of us at all. Assembling an AR would be “gunsmithing”, but threading a muzzle or barrel tenon would be manufacturing. So, almost all gunsmiths will still need to pay the ITAR fee.

Even if you pin the lug and have the barrel wring-fit with the lug... it’s going to move around without the threads being torqued down.

That wouldn’t put any tension on the threads. You need a solid lockup or your headspace will change and the barrel will shift under recoil.

Some custom smiths will save your receiver measurements and make you a barrel without taking the action to fit it. It requires a little more advanced metrology than just running the reamer in until a the go-gauge fits, but it’s not that hard. Certainly, you can swap barrels until the cows come...