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It might just be a little rough that will eventually smooth out, or it might just need a little polishing/honing by the mfr. Yeah. I know some people who just wrapped steel wool or green scotchbrite around a 45 ACP brush with some oil and "buffed it out, but I would contact the vendor. No sense...
Back in the 1990's, Corbon and HydraShok were the choice. After extensively testing them in a full-size 1911 I went with HydraShok-the Corbon's recoil were way uncomfortable to control for rapid follow-up. Tecnology has left the HydraShok and Corbon behind. They're still good, but there are...
Uh, yes, he knew it needed to be turned down behind the threads....The question the smith was asking (in addition to what diameter/length to turn down) was the transition: squared 90 degree? Angled (what degree)? Chamferred? Hence asking who might know how to do it right. I'll start with the...
So who is able to do it correctly? My local trustworthy smiths can do it, but don't have the correct specs and would need a diagram/specs. Any suggestions for smiths or correct diagrams?
Yeah, it sounds like you made an effort and tried to beat factory. No way will LAX or Freedom be better. Stick with Hornady Match since you have good luck with it. Edit: Whatever happened with the Prime/RUAG debacle?
Case thinning from too many reloads. No mystery, look how thin the brass is at the crack. The primer just flew out as the case extracted and some residual pressure popped it out. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachments/img_0697-jpeg.8389227/
If it were a very fine FFP crosshair or dot at 25X, it would be invisible or difficult to see against the black target face at 18X and below when we dial back due to the mirage moving heavily or boils....Cuz we're old and can't see.