Recent content by zimm17

Oh boy, did I open a can of worms if I head into the world of Omega threaded suppressor. I had no idea there was so much. Seems like ASR was the original and now there's many more. Dead Air Key-Mo, Plan B "Q", etc. I'm reading up on them. I'll check the Reardon too. Light, simple, affordable...

Oh wow, the Ecco machine option might be the way to go. I don't really need to buy another .30 suppressor if my existing one can be "fixed". What is the best muzzle break/mount system to use then? Do I want these brakes or flash hiders? I like the hiders because clocking the breaks is a...

I've been overseas for a few years so I'm out of the current knowledge game on the state of the industry. The last time I was neck deep in this stuff, I bought an AAC SDN-6 (remember those?) and a boat load of 51T breaks and flash hiders for all the rifles. It works fine on the short carbines...

Baffles are fine. The cover just slipped off the front. I think it was backwards so the paracord wasn't grabbing the muzzle break and it just flew off due to recoil. It was only loose enough to rotate back and forth one tooth on the AAC brake. I'll keep investigating as I clean it.

I have a new Howa 1500 in 6.5CM, Nightforce SHV 4-14, on a Harris/Laure bipod. SDN-6 Suppressor with 51T muzzle break. I know a direct thread is better, but it's what I got. I completed the Howa break in procedure on my last range outing. This was the first time firing suppressed. First...

I can easily see the level from behind the rifle. It did great today through it's barrel break-in procedure.

Finally got my build to the range today and followed Howas break in procedure. I spent more time running patches than shooting! After 20 break in shots while sighting in, I got a pretty nice group at 100 yards. That's with a bipod directly on a concrete bench, a crappy midway mini rear bag...

Head position is fine I just dropped the comb down 1/4”.

Well I sprung for Seekins low rings. Problem solved.

I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so I'm going to order some low Burris XTR rings to replace the medium height that are on there now, and flip the screws to the left side.

I have a new 51T brake on order, and i have one on my .300blk. i'll see which one locks up the highest and run it on the bolt rifle. Those groups are smaller than your micrometer is showing- you measure from center to center on the bullet holes....

I know they're not in favor and "old school" now, but i have a SDN-6 and 51T mounts on 6 different hosts. It goes on everything from AR-15 SBRs in .300blk and .223 to a IWI Tavor. I was going to run it on my new Howa 1500 6.5CM build, but now i'm reading about how it's not a "precision can"...

Good point. I'll do a dry fire session with it and see if my fingers hit the bolt heads. Plus it'll help work in the action before I hit the range (As soon as school for the kids start!)

So the Nightforce arrived today. Are the Burris xtr medium rings too tall? It looks high but the cheekpiece is only up 1/2” for good alignment. I do have butler creek scope caps on the way. What about the screws? Should the lower rings be flipped around? I spent a lot of time leveling...

Got the SHV F1 scope installed today. KRG bravo stock. Clipped 1.25 coils on trigger spring results in 1lb, 11oz pull. AAC muzzle break on backorder. I wonder if my medium rings are too tall? Also I just realized my ring bases are facing right- should the screws be on the left side?