Alright it appears there are quite a few of y’all that do some woodworking around here. Post up your projects!
I’ll start off with some cutting boards I did for Christmas.
I’ll start off with some cutting boards I did for Christmas.
Begone with that foul substance!I embrace the sapwood
Titebond 3 and mineral oil on the boardsInterested to hear what glue and what finish you used on those cutting boards, please.
nicely done !!!!!!
I want to make a chess set so bad, or at least a board. My grandmother made me a ceramic chess set when I was in middle school and the board sagged in the middle when it was firedChessboard out of oak and walnut. I poured the ceramic chess pieces in high school 30+ years ago, they are pretty big, so I made the board with 1 3/4" squares.
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I'm guessing it wasn't completely dry before it went in the kiln.I want to make a chess set so bad, or at least a board. My grandmother made me a ceramic chess set when I was in middle school and the board sagged in the middle when it was fired
Coffee table I made a couple years ago out of oak my dad cut on his property in Missouri.
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Chessboard out of oak and walnut. I poured the ceramic chess pieces in high school 30+ years ago, they are pretty big, so I made the board with 1 3/4" squares.
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I had a thread on it last year, the board, not the pieces. I think I was a sophomore in HS (so probably 35 years ago?) when I did the pieces, there was a board, checkers and case that all went with that project. If I had a lathe I'd spin up some wood pieces, that's a someday project.LOVE the chess board!!! Very well done! I'm a big chess nerd and really enjoy playing. I've been wanting to make(and maybe sell?) some chessboards. The bishops & queen look very similar. I'd like to turn/spin up the pieces and carve out the knights to go with them.
With ceramics if the green ware isn’t dry when fired it will likely explode if fired too fast. Warping was likely caused by uneven drying.I'm guessing it wasn't completely dry before it went in the kiln.
The only ceramics I did were my chess pieces. My wife did a "truck load" of flower pots when we were in Korea. I never saw the kiln she used, but it must have been at or near the nursery/greenhouses that she went to all the time. I know she had some that were destroyed in the kiln though.With ceramics if the green ware isn’t dry when fired it will likely explode if fired too fast. Warping was likely caused by uneven drying.
We only used draw knives to flesh hides in the fur shed; since they never ran in to anything "hard" we would just use a sharpening steel, like you'd have in the kitchen. For wood draw knives, I think a fine cut file would be the way to go. You only want to use it on the angled side, and leave the flat side flat...otherwise it's not going to cut right without adding a sharper angle to get the edge to cut.Question to other wood workers. What is the correct profile/way to sharpen a draw knife? Flat back like chisel or plane blades or something else?
Have a cool old J.S. Cantelo folding draw knife that needs sharpened and no idea how its supposed to be done. Got it from my grandpa (1913-2008) who mightve got it from his dad or father in law. It's that old. Late 18 somethings patent date on it. Will try to remember to take good pictures of it later after work.
I did mine in the first post the same way. The top row slid about 1/16” on final glue up and I didn’t notice til after the glue driedSounds like I cheated the way I did my chess board. I glued boards together, then crosscut with the table saw and glued them back together with colors alternating.
It takes a little while for the glue to "dry", but it gets to the point of not moving in just a couple minutes. Might have to do with how dry the wood is to start with, but from my experience you don't have much time to adjust before it's too late.I did mine in the first post the same way. The top row slid about 1/16” on final glue up and I didn’t notice til after the glue dried
No idea. It’s not unusable, it’s just sagging a bit but it is noticeableI'm guessing it wasn't completely dry before it went in the kiln.
You sir are talented. That safe is awesome. Construction equipment is super cool alsoI have this "thing" about safes -
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and "mechanical things" -
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and "thanks for being here" gifts -
(note the drawer "knobs" are uniform buttons)
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(He owned a hardware store - and retired. His staff wanted something to give him. They worked at the cash register . . . so I made him a cash register.)
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(They asked me to put together an Honor Flight to Washington, D.C. I wanted to give them something to remember it.)View attachment 7844176
Nice work and see you are a fan of lie-Neisen tools as well. Over the years picked up many of the same tools shown in your cabinet and the quality is second to none with one of my favorites being the No. 51 Shoot Board Plane. Need to post a picture of my woodworking table I built many years ago.
Where are you finding deals on them? I’ve been looking for some good used planes and haven’t had much luckWith the cost of used tools today, Lie Nielsen are the best value in tools you can buy.
Would love to see your bench. When you start buying Lie Nielsen it’s hard to be satisfied with anything else.Nice work and see you are a fan of lie-Neisen tools as well. Over the years picked up many of the same tools shown in your cabinet and the quality is second to none with one of my favorites being the No. 51 Shoot Board Plane. Need to post a picture of my woodworking table I built many years ago.
What I’m saying is, stop looking for used and buy direct from Lie Nielsen. The days of $5 barely used Stanley no4 planes at garage sales is long over.Where are you finding deals on them? I’ve been looking for some good used planes and haven’t had much luck
This^^^ There was a time when you could find older Record and Stanley planes that were in decent shape. Over the years I collected complete set from No.1 to 8C with all the variants in between. Had the soles precision ground and lapped and installed Hock chip breakers and blades. They work beautifully but for the amount of work I had to put into them just more practical to go with LIe-Neilsen. When I got into woodworking many years ago the quality English tools were still available but those days are long gone.What I’m saying is, stop looking for used and buy direct from Lie Nielsen. The days of $5 barely used Stanley no4 planes at garage sales is long over.
Exactly. Plus the internet, lol. Rusted out planes are priced within spitting distance of new planes.This^^^ There was a time when you could find older Record and Stanley planes that were in decent shape. Over the years I collected complete set from No.1 to 8C with all the variants in between. Had the soles precision ground and lapped and installed Hock chip breakers and blades. They work beautifully but for the amount of work I had to put into them just more practical to go with LIe-Neilsen. When I got into woodworking many years ago the quality English tools were still available but those days are long gone.
Good advice but I could never part with the No 8 Jointer plane. Awesome for table and bench tops! Ray Iles makes a nice set of mortise chisels as well. Also, for hand saws it’s hard to beat any of the saws from Bad Axe. The only tools I’ve regretted buying from Lie Nielsen are their saws.Exactly. Plus the internet, lol. Rusted out planes are priced within spitting distance of new planes.
Every Lie Nielsen tool I own I could sell today for more than I paid for them, and that’s including the ones I’ve owned for over a decade and used a ton.
The only time you’ll regret purchasing a Lie Nielsen tool is at the time you pay for the very first one. Once you open the box, you’ll be happy. Once you use it you’ll understand that Lie Nielsen tools are incredibly cheap.
I do still buy big box store chisels as beater chisels though.
I prefer pig sticker mortise chisels. I had one set cut shorter and re-ground because I believe most mortise chisels are much longer than necessary. More control with shorter mortise chisels. I’ve been eyeing a set of the Ashley Iles butt chisels for the same reason.
For my bench planes, I settled on the 1/2 series (4 1/2, 5 1/2) because the blades are the same as the No 7 jointer. Streamlining, lol.
If you work with a lot of rough lumber and dimension by hand, I recommend your first plane be a 5 1/2 jack. Order an extra blade and grind a radius on it to use for scrubbing. Getting a beater number 4 to convert to a scrub is worthwhile. All you really need to do is grind a radius and open the mouth a bit.
I’m not happy with their tenon saw. All of my panel saws are old American saws. I refurbish, set, and sharpen them.Good advice. Ray Iles makes a nice set of mortise chisels as well. Also, for hand saws it’s hard to beat any of the saws from Bad Axe. The only tools I’ve regretted buying from Lie Nielsen are their saws.
Gotcha, I’ve been eyeballing their stuff for a little while. Being that this is 100% a hobby and provides 0 $ for me it’s been hard to justify. Just need to bite the bullet and get one. Do you have an order you recommended getting planes?What I’m saying is, stop looking for used and buy direct from Lie Nielsen. The days of $5 barely used Stanley no4 planes at garage sales is long over.
Get a 5 1/2 Jack first, and if you flatten a lot of tops, a No7 or 8, but I prefer the No 7.Gotcha, I’ve been eyeballing their stuff for a little while. Being that this is 100% a hobby and provides 0 $ for me it’s been hard to justify. Just need to bite the bullet and get one. Do you have an order you recommended getting planes?
Main needs would be to flatten table tops and one for general bench work.
Also, can someone recommend a good sharpening kit for chisels and planes?