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Tikka T3 Thread

Question: I’ve seen folks convert tikka short actions to long actions for magnum cartridges, ie West Desert Shooter. Has anyone here changed a short action to shoot SAMs, such as the 6.5 PRC? From what I can gather all I would need to do outside of getting a new barrel chambered, would be to get a Magnum Bolt such as the one from @LongRifles Inc. Thoughts?
 
Question: I’ve seen folks convert tikka short actions to long actions for magnum cartridges, ie West Desert Shooter. Has anyone here changed a short action to shoot SAMs, such as the 6.5 PRC? From what I can gather all I would need to do outside of getting a new barrel chambered, would be to get a Magnum Bolt such as the one from @LongRifles Inc. Thoughts?
I’d get a long action Bolt Stop and maybe after market mags if you reload.
 
The Tikka uses the same action for short and long, so what type of bolt stop you use determines length of cartridge you can use.

If you want to go from a short to long cartridge and the bolt face is the same, you need the new barrel and a bolt stop. If the bolt face changes, you will as also need a new bolt.

The cartridge also needs to fit in the magazine so make sure you can get a magazine.
 
The Tikka uses the same action for short and long, so what type of bolt stop you use determines length of cartridge you can use.

If you want to go from a short to long cartridge and the bolt face is the same, you need the new barrel and a bolt stop. If the bolt face changes, you will as also need a new bolt.

The cartridge also needs to fit in the magazine so make sure you can get a magazine.

But I was asking for a Short Action Mag… not long…. So I’m theory I don’t need a long action bolt stop…. Same size cartridge (short action length) just larger bolt face…
 
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Sorry, got thrown by the first line of the post. Tikka makes the T3X in those calibers, so I imagine it is just a barrel, bolt and magazine swap?
 
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Tikka makes a 6,5 PRC bolt -- get that and you should be all set.

ETA: It looks like it's 'compatible' with 6,5 PRC but not specific to it, since the bolt stops are sold separately.
 
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Isn't the factory CTR bolt stop intermediate, longer than SA but shorter than LA? Understanding CTR's are only come in SA but the last time I took one down I swear the bolt stop allowed a longer travel than my SA. I figured it was to clear the CTR mag.
 
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Isn't the factory CTR bolt stop intermediate, longer than SA but shorter than SA? Understanding CTR's are only come in SA but the last time I took one down I swear the bolt stop allowed a longer travel than my SA. I figured it was to clear the CTR mag.
The shortest stop is for .223. The CTR has the mid length stop which is for full-caliber short actions. The long stop is for long actions.
 
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But I’m asking about a short action magnum….

I built a 7 SAUM on a tikka action, I made it a "long action", so I could run 180's without stuffing them deep into the case. You might do the same thing for a 6.5PRC running 156 bergers so that you're not stuffing deep into the case. It's technically a SA cartridge but it might work better as a medium action.
 
Update again!

Tikka JRTXB482 lefty stainless t3x lite 6.5 creed

Vortex razor 2 4.5-27x56 7c mil in vortex precision rings (used off the hide)

Murphy tactical 20moa titanium rail (just cause I could)

RRS sc-lr, RRS atlas adapter spacer, Atlas CAL gen 2 no dye with Atlas spike FEET (thanks @Kasey )

KRG whiskey 3 with arca rail. Krg branded accurate mags.

Sterk titanium bolt shroud gen 2 and Sterk left handed swept ball (thanks @cannoncrossfire)

Precision Underground bag and suppressor cover (thanks @Precision Underground)

Thunderbeast Ultra 7 30 cal CB on a TBAC CB face mount brake installed by TBAC. Stamp came in today. 385 days from cashed to approved.
20220705_222352.jpg
20220705_222415.jpg
 
Update again!

Tikka JRTXB482 lefty stainless t3x lite 6.5 creed

Vortex razor 2 4.5-27x56 7c mil in vortex precision rings (used off the hide)

Murphy tactical 20moa titanium rail (just cause I could)

RRS sc-lr, RRS atlas adapter spacer, Atlas CAL gen 2 no dye with Atlas spike FEET (thanks @Kasey )

KRG whiskey 3 with arca rail. Krg branded accurate mags.

Sterk titanium bolt shroud gen 2 and Sterk left handed swept ball (thanks @cannoncrossfire)

Precision Underground bag and suppressor cover (thanks @Precision Underground)

Thunderbeast Ultra 7 30 cal CB on a TBAC CB face mount brake installed by TBAC. Stamp came in today. 385 days from cashed to approved.
View attachment 7906280View attachment 7906281
What is your barrel length? Did you have to cut any off to thread it?
 
Update again!

Tikka JRTXB482 lefty stainless t3x lite 6.5 creed

Vortex razor 2 4.5-27x56 7c mil in vortex precision rings (used off the hide)

Murphy tactical 20moa titanium rail (just cause I could)

RRS sc-lr, RRS atlas adapter spacer, Atlas CAL gen 2 no dye with Atlas spike FEET (thanks @Kasey )

KRG whiskey 3 with arca rail. Krg branded accurate mags.

Sterk titanium bolt shroud gen 2 and Sterk left handed swept ball (thanks @cannoncrossfire)

Precision Underground bag and suppressor cover (thanks @Precision Underground)

Thunderbeast Ultra 7 30 cal CB on a TBAC CB face mount brake installed by TBAC. Stamp came in today. 385 days from cashed to approved.
View attachment 7906280View attachment 7906281
🔥 👊🏻
 
Just took my rifle out a few days ago to zero, but noticed it shot about 3mil low at 50/100yd. Everything is new except the barrel(swapped 7rm barrel for 300wsm); T3X with Area 419 20moa base, Athlon Cronus G2 4.5-29x, ARC rings.

Has anyone had a new setup with 20moa base shoot low like this before? All my other rifles have always shot high after putting them together...makes me a little worried that something is off. This would be like 8mil of adjustment assuming I didn't have the 20moa base. I didn't take pics but seemed to group fine(just under 1moa with a fairly warm barrel). Wind was about 0.2mil off.
 
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Just took my rifle out a few days ago to zero, but noticed it shot about 3mil low at 50/100yd. Everything is new except the barrel(swapped 7rm barrel for 300wsm); T3X with Area 419 20moa base, Athlon Cronus G2 4.5-29x, ARC rings.

Has anyone had a new setup with 20moa base shoot low like this before? All my other rifles have always shot high after putting them together...makes me a little worried that something is off. This would be like 8mil of adjustment assuming I didn't have the 20moa base. I didn't take pics but seemed to group fine(just under 1moa with a fairly warm barrel). Wind was about 0.2mil off.
What do you mean by shoots low? Are you out of adjustment and cant zero?
Have you checked and tightened everything to spec? Checked barrel for free float? Reset zero stop on scope?
 
I loved my T3 as a 308, but I've always wanted a 6BR, so I had David Sink in NC build this for me. A 26" Benchmark barrel, Boyd's stock, Warne cantilever mount, and a 6x24 Arken scope, with a trigger that breaks at about 13 ounces. All-up weight is about 14 pounds, but it snugs down nicely on the bench bags, and has turned in some gratifying groups, though load development continues with Berger 105's. I don't hunt, but the primary purpose for this rifle is to snipe yellow-jackets and other stabby-butt things at distance. Pour out some Orange Soda and get comfy, they always find it in a few minutes.

I call it the BlueJay.


"Pour out orange soda and get comfy".......this reminds me of back in the day when I used to walk clover field and "hunt grasshoppers" with an old single shot Stevens 12ga.
 
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I want to see if someone can confirm if a TRG22/42 buttstock can fit on the Tikka CTR KRG chassis?
It can but you’ll need to do a little bit of milling on the inside surface of the stock to allow it to mate snugly on the bravo otherwise there’s a small gap between the tang. This doesn’t affect the buttstock attachment to the TRG forestock if you want to switch it back. The only downside is you can’t use the 10mm TRG cheek spacer because the Tikka SA bolt will hit.
 
Get with @cattleman99 to help you order the correct butt stock direct from him through KRG even if not on website. He really helped me out with mine. I am sure he will help you out too.
 
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I don’t see it clearly stated, are those Vision forends CTR mag or AICS?
 
They have/had both. Gen 1 was ctr, the gen 2 that Dave has above is AICS.

I believe GCP May have a couple gen 1s left. Not many though
I see now it says AICS all over the Gen 2, not sure how I missed that.
 
Update again!

Tikka JRTXB482 lefty stainless t3x lite 6.5 creed

Vortex razor 2 4.5-27x56 7c mil in vortex precision rings (used off the hide)

Murphy tactical 20moa titanium rail (just cause I could)

RRS sc-lr, RRS atlas adapter spacer, Atlas CAL gen 2 no dye with Atlas spike FEET (thanks @Kasey )

KRG whiskey 3 with arca rail. Krg branded accurate mags.

Sterk titanium bolt shroud gen 2 and Sterk left handed swept ball (thanks @cannoncrossfire)

Precision Underground bag and suppressor cover (thanks @Precision Underground)

Thunderbeast Ultra 7 30 cal CB on a TBAC CB face mount brake installed by TBAC. Stamp came in today. 385 days from cashed to approved.
View attachment 7906280View attachment 7906281
Very slick...quick question, is the Whiskey 3 ambidextrous for the T3X?
 
Very slick...quick question, is the Whiskey 3 ambidextrous for the T3X?
Had to get it modified. Before.
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All you have to do is mirror what is there already. Can be done with a dremel or a round file or fancier equipment. Had a local machine shop guy that does some gun stuff on the side who did it for me for free.
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Glad I found this thread. I'm almost done fiddling with my superlite. I'm sitting at 7lbs 15oz with swapped Ti parts and an Ibex stock. Does anyone have any pics of their tikka with an 18" barrel? I have a 24" carbon barrel I want to put on for NRL Hunter but would like to get it closer to 7lbs four some bush hunting.
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Hey y'all, serious question here. While I was replacing my barrel (I should have taken the trigger off, I know!) my safety's retention e-clip popped off. When it did the sear spring popped out. How in the hell do I get it back in!? How does it install?! Thanks! I can post pics as well...
 
Hey y'all, serious question here. While I was replacing my barrel (I should have taken the trigger off, I know!) my safety's retention e-clip popped off. When it did the sear spring popped out. How in the hell do I get it back in!? How does it install?! Thanks! I can post pics as well...
Please post pics. I've got a possible project someday messing with trigger stuff.
 
Please post pics. I've got a possible project someday messing with trigger stuff.


Since I haven't been able to find anything on the internets, nor here, and almost no one Ive found even sells Tikka Sear springs (or I guess trigger return springs). Ill update here for the other poor sap that makes the same mistake I did....

So the first image below is the mess... the black piece at the top is the safety mechanism, the black stud / rod is what goes through the hole at the rear (this sounds gross already) of the trigger assembly and through the rear of the sear. The sear is pinned to pivot at the top right of the trigger but also has a hole that the safety mechanism rod can pass through and then is held in please by an e-clip on the other side.

The bottom image is where the sear spring is inserted into... it took me a second to figure this out... The spring is compressed in this hole and held IN PLACE by the safety rod that passes through the sear... THIS IS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO PUT BACK! you have to compress the spring, which is fairly strong given its size... THEN pass the rod through both the trigger housing and the sear and keep the spring compressed enough to allow it to pass through. Hands, mouths, my wife's hands, small screw drivers, etc were all used to get it back in... (again sorry for the sexy images... ;).

So for any poor sap that finds themself in the same place hopefully this helps. net net the sear spring is hidden IN the sear. If the e-clip comes off and you pull the safety it WILL come out and be a pain in the ass to get in.


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