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Tikka T3x CTR vs. Tikka T3x Tac A1?

Tikka CTR vs Tac A1

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For a dedicated range toy. Either will be in 6.5 CM. I have a 600 yard range near me, and lots of property for longer shots if I want. Not looking to spend a ton of money here, just want something a little better than my R700s have been and have narrowed it down to these two.

I know the differences between the two and I know the advantages/disadvantages of each. My biggest gripe with the CTR is I'd likely go with a KRG Bravo but really don't want to go with AICS mags - would rather just run CTR mags. Either gun will get trigger work, don't really have a preference of single vs double stage. I like that the Tac A1 comes with the brake and effectively 3 mags right from the get go. Since I don't shoot 1000 yards often/at all or ELR, I think the stock 0 MOA rail on either should be fine, no?

I've got glass for it and ammo.

Which would you go with?
 
I would get a Tikka T3 Varmint in 6.5 Creed for the heavier barrel, sell the stock, mag, and factory trigger. Buy a CTR DBM and Mag takeoff from the hide for cheap. Buy a KRG W3 fixed or Manners T6A. Grab a Timey 2 stage. All said and done you will still be cheaper than a Tac A1 and have a rifle with a better trigger, thicker barrel, and arguably more comfortable/solid stock.
 
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leeb10 said:
I would get a Tikka T3 Varmint in 6.5 Creed for the heavier barrel, sell the stock, mag, and factory trigger. Buy a CTR DBM and Mag takeoff from the hide for cheap. Buy a KRG W3 fixed or Manners T6A. Grab a Timey 2 stage. All said and done you will still be cheaper than a Tac A1 and have a rifle with a better trigger, thicker barrel, and arguably more comfortable/solid stock.
Click to expand...
I guess I never really looked at the T3x Varmint. What's the difference other than the stock, bolt knob, and rail?
 
I would suggest trying the Timney 2 stage triggers out first. Both of the ones I purchased had enough creep to really annoy me, and my simple mind couldn't figure out how to adjust them to fix it. I had to take both to Timney to get 'em straightened out.

That being said, a lot of folks like them.

As for CTR bottom metal and a mag, PM me if you go that route... I have a set laying here collecting dust after putting my 6.5CM in a XLR chassis.
 
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Been debating about this exact same dilemma myself but in .223. Original plan was to take a tikka varmint .223 and put it in a mpa chassis with accurate mags. Saw that it is now available in the tac a1. Now I hear rumors of a ctr in .223 coming out this year. Possibly put that in a manners. Curious what route you choose. I’ll keep an eye on this thread.
 
I guess I never really looked at the T3x Varmint. What's the difference other than the stock, bolt knob, and rail?
Click to expand...

The T3X Varmint has a ~.90 inch barrel at the muzzle. The CTR is ~0.75 inch. Barrel is not threaded however, but that is a cheap job. Other than that it has a different stock, different DBM, and mags, smaller bolt knob, and no rail (which is imo a pro since the factory CTR rail is a pain to get off).
 
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I went with the CTR and MPA chassis. I ran ARC mags and they fed fine.

If you like the Tac A1 chassis and CTR mags go that route, if you have a wondering eye and want a different chassis you will more than likely have to run AICS style mags.

You can find TAC A1's for a good bit cheaper than a CTR plus high end chassis so my vote goes that way.
 
Why I like my tikka t3x ctr???? It’s a do everything type of bolt action that is stupid accurate. Light weight for hunting, but crazy accurate for bench shooting.
 
I went the CTR route as that was my only option 3-4 years ago. I am on my 2nd barrel and I run it in a German Gun Stock with the CTR metal and magazines. I also have a varmint in .223 that is in another GGS and I run the 75 ELDM at 3025fps. Building a 22BR for PRS on a T3 action right now.

If you are comfortable behind a Tac A1, it is a good deal with the 3 mags and the brake. If not, I have seen guys sell the Tac chassis on here and use the mags in a Manners or GGS.
 
There are so many great stock and chassis options out there for the T3. If you don't absolutely love the TAC A1 chassis feel than it'd probably be best to get the CTR, sell the stock and bottom metal, and buy a chassis/stock you prefer.
 
leeb10 said:
The T3X Varmint has a ~.90 inch barrel at the muzzle. The CTR is ~0.75 inch. Barrel is not threaded however, but that is a cheap job. Other than that it has a different stock, different DBM, and mags, smaller bolt knob, and no rail (which is imo a pro since the factory CTR rail is a pain to get off).
Click to expand...

Is that for sure on the barrel diameter? That seems like something to think about.
 
leeb10 said:
The specific dimensions may be off by a little bit here and there, but the Varmint for sure has a heavier contour than the CTR. The difference is at least 0.1 inches.
Click to expand...
Aprox. .788 CTR and Aprox. .825 Varmint... give or take on the quality of caliper .... YMMV
 
Those GGS stocks are looking very interesting to me. Bolt in stock. Keep the nice CTR mags.
 
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I got the CTR, shot it factory for a year, and then upgraded the stock to a T4A. If I had known how much I would love the T4A, I would have upgraded on day 1. It's a really, really nice stock. Everything else on the gun is already awesome - smooth action, great trigger, accurate barrel, reliable cycling, etc.

Nothing wrong with the Tac either, but the better value is the CTR plus customizing your add-ons.
 
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Grayboe are extending their Tikka inlets to the renegade and ridgeback for 2019 so that's another option. My cousin just got his CTR setup and we're dropping it in an A5 we found a good deal on. Somehow they sent us 260 rather than 6.5CM and he signed the 4473 before i knew it but we're running with it.

If it's for competition you can probably find a varmint around 750-850. We paid $865 for his T3X CTR. Varmint also doesn't come with a rail FWIW. TAC A1 for $1400 is a solid deal and will do everything you need it to if you like that chassis.
 
I had the TAC A1 and sold the chassis. Tikka thought of everything and the chassis is very well built and executed as expected.

The only reason why I sold the chassis is I just prefer a regular stock. Otherwise, the only reason not to choose the TAC A1 is for a different flavor.

I’m also turning my Tikka 6.5 cm into a hunting/casual rifle.

I will be building a 6mm on a custom action for a comp gun this year.
 
Step 1: Buy Tikka T3X lite with whatever bolt face you want
Step 2: Rip everything off of the action, throw away unused parts.
Step 3: Select chassis and barrel in whatever flavor you want
Step 4: Profit.

Seriously, my 6.5x47 was 2k with an XLR element and KP Barrel and is an amazing shooter. Price is close to the A1, but uses better mags, has an arca rail ($33 @Amazon), and I would guarantee would shoot better than any factory rifle.

Bring the hate.
 
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Great response so far. I'm definitely leaning CTR, though I'm still not against a Tac A1 as the 3 mags + brake are a nice bonus.

Where do you find "deals" on a CTR or Tac A1 as mentioned in this thread? Keeping an eye on the classifieds? Specific gun auction sites?
 
TSS outfitters had the CTR 20” blued for $865 that’s where we got ours from.
 
5RWill said:
TSS outfitters had the CTR 20” blued for $865 that’s where we got ours from.
Click to expand...
Just checked and saw that they still do - that's the best deal you're going to find on a CTR since Beretta brought the hammer down on Whittaker's. I'd jump on it if you are thinking that's the route you want to go. I think they're right around $1k everywhere else.
 
I'm kinda in the same boat. Expect I'm trying to figure out if I should get another TRG or a Tikka and build it up.

I'll throw out a suggestion. I see TRG's go for around $2k on gun broker often. If a TAC A1 or built out CTR is roughly the same price for you, maybe look at a used TRG.
 
I have both a TAC and a CTR ss 20" in 260 rem. The CTR sits in an XLR element folder and I like it well enough, but the TAC makes it sort of pointless. I am going to put it back in the original stock and use it for whitetails and hogs.
 
So I bought the tac A1 in 260. Ran a couple of comps with it and sold the chassis off and placed it in an MPA. I will never look back. One advantage to the Tac A1 for me personally was the 2 stage trigger, but I guess Timney is making one.
 
I have the Tikka Tac A1 and I really like it. Love the adjustable trigger and the chassis, except I think the buttstock is cheesy. I had to tape on some pipe insullation to get my cheek weld to the correct height. I want to keep the folding stock, but want to upgrade the buttstock. I saw the Sako model with their buttstock and really like it. Any suggestions?
 
For the Tikka T3X A1 shooters. Can you reverse the cheek piece, swap to other side??? I'm a righty but shoot long arms lefty due to dominant eye. I've never had a problem running the bolt with the right hand and maintaining grip/trigger placement with my left hand. I'd like to field this rifle but I would need that riser support on my "left cheek".
 
BravoSector1 said:
For the Tikka T3X A1 shooters. Can you reverse the cheek piece, swap to other side??? I'm a righty but shoot long arms lefty due to dominant eye. I've never had a problem running the bolt with the right hand and maintaining grip/trigger placement with my left hand. I'd like to field this rifle but I would need that riser support on my "left cheek".
Click to expand...
Yes, the cheek riser can be reversed on the Tikka T3x A1. I did it on mine, easy. I am a righty, but switched to shooting lefty because of vision problems with my right eye.

Funny, after shooting rifle lefty for about a year, I found that my scores went up when shooting pistol left hand only in IDPA matches. It seems my left trigger finger got educated.
 
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As stated earlier check out the Timney trigger if You can. I bought one and the trigger pull was terrible. Gritty and the blade wiggled from side to side.. If You try the CTR to TAC1 the issue I ran into was the difference in height of the Pic. rail. It can be over come . I ended up getting rid of the TAC1 going with CTR and bifrost stock. In the end I found a NIB TRG on Gunbroker for 2100 shipped and finally am happy with all but the trigger pull. I have been hoping bixn Andy would come out with a replacement with a lighter pull. For .223 another option is the Tikka Sporter. I love the ergonomics of the stock.
 
This is the exact question I joined up to ask, thank you all for the input! Now to find a good deal on a CTR and then plan to upgrade in the future!
 
My vote would be to "build" your own CTR/Tac A1 from the chepeast T3x you can find. I love the idea of custom rifles. the price might even be cheaper to do it. Not sure how much better a custom barrel is than factory (or how much you care), but custom barrels open so many options. Also you can pick whatever chassis you want. A budget option like a KRG Bravo would keep costs down
 
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I went with the KRG Bravo (CTR Mag) for my build.

preview
 
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Deadman Pointers said:
I would suggest trying the Timney 2 stage triggers out first. Both of the ones I purchased had enough creep to really annoy me, and my simple mind couldn't figure out how to adjust them to fix it. I had to take both to Timney to get 'em straightened out.

That being said, a lot of folks like them.

As for CTR bottom metal and a mag, PM me if you go that route... I have a set laying here collecting dust after putting my 6.5CM in a XLR chassis.
Click to expand...

I agree. The Timney Triggers aren't awful but I ended up going back to the stock trigger after trying the Timney.
 
leeb10 said:
I would get a Tikka T3 Varmint in 6.5 Creed for the heavier barrel, sell the stock, mag, and factory trigger. Buy a CTR DBM and Mag takeoff from the hide for cheap. Buy a KRG W3 fixed or Manners T6A. Grab a Timey 2 stage. All said and done you will still be cheaper than a Tac A1 and have a rifle with a better trigger, thicker barrel, and arguably more comfortable/solid stock.
Click to expand...
that works assuming he doesn’t need a threaded barrel
 
I've owned a Varmint and CTR - I actually like the CTR barrel better. It lasts about 10-11 shots before getting too hot (unless it's 100+ outside, and then you get 8-9 shots). The Varmint gives you an extra 1-2 shots before starting to throw them, but takes quite a bit longer to cool off before you can shoot again.
 
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I just got my 223 TacA1..,,, the stainless CTR-223 is for sale
 
I’ve a Tac a1 in 6.5 cm, love the chassis - its a range queen so no weight issues. To balance that, I bought a CTR, dint like the plastic non adjustable stock, dropped into a cheat Oryx, that a buddy was selling. I like the setup, lighter than the a1 but works for a different competition type.

If I was buying new again, it would be the CTR, + a KRG chassis. Lighten the trigger spring (done on both of mine cheap and easily sourced, possible a 2 stage trigger
 
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Johnerz said:
I’ve a Tac a1 in 6.5 cm, love the chassis - its a range queen so no weight issues. To balance that, I bought a CTR, dint like the plastic non adjustable stock, dropped into a cheat Oryx, that a buddy was selling. I like the setup, lighter than the a1 but works for a different competition type.

If I was buying new again, it would be the CTR, + a KRG chassis. Lighten the trigger spring (done on both of mine cheap and easily sourced, possible a 2 stage trigger
Click to expand...
😉
 

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leeb10 said:
I would get a Tikka T3 Varmint in 6.5 Creed for the heavier barrel, sell the stock, mag, and factory trigger. Buy a CTR DBM and Mag takeoff from the hide for cheap. Buy a KRG W3 fixed or Manners T6A. Grab a Timey 2 stage. All said and done you will still be cheaper than a Tac A1 and have a rifle with a better trigger, thicker barrel, and arguably more comfortable/solid stock.
Click to expand...
That's about exactly what I've just done. Varmint 6.5, Element chassis, stock trigger tho.

I'm at appx $1600ish so far having bought the chassis used, and a discount Vortex scope/rings. Still need a few mags

M
 
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