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New to ELR - design help please

Wasfuzz73

Private
Minuteman
Sep 14, 2022
8
0
Northern California
Hey guys. Recently retired deputy in NorCal. I have a Bergara B14 HMR 300 PRC coming my way. I have a Razor 5-20x50 to put on it. I’ve been perusing these forums and gathering info. A couple of questions:
I want to shoot 1000 and eventually a mile with this gun. Do I need more than a 20 MOA long action base? I’m open to rings or a mount.
Second question and this might sound dumb as hell; if I adjust the stock comb riser, then doesn’t that screw up my zero and dope? The riser has to be lowered to remove the bolt from the rifle.

Thanks so much!
 
Yes, you will need at least a 20moa base or ring mount ie Spuhr. Whether you can dial elevation completely at a mile or have to hold over some depends on the amount of elevation adjustment in your turrets. Cheek rest has nothing to do with your turret settings, zero, or dope. It only serves to help you maintain a solid full field of view in a relatively tight high magnification eye box. I don’t know if your scope is FFP or SFP, but most here prefer First Focal Plane. Having a ballistic program on your cell and a Kestrel are invaluable, as are a good bipod and a rear sandbag. I hope you have access to 300PRC ammo or reloading components. Not easy to come by and spendy to boot.
 
The Vortex website says the 5-20x50 has 125 MOA of elevation adjustment, which is about 36 mils. If I make some assumptions, like shooting factory 225 grain ELD-M's and getting around 2800fps, at sea level you'll need around 19 mils of come-up at a mile. Depending on how you set up the zero on the Razor, I'm sure a 20 MOA base or rings will get you to a mile. Once you are maxed out on elevation, just hold over, no biggie. If you only get 2700fps, you'll need another mil or so. I've got a Gen 2 4.5-27 Razor, a 30 MOA rail and get over 3000fps from my 300 PRC. By zeroing at 1000 yards and holding over, we've made hits out to 1.5 miles before running out of elevation, but we're at over 5000' elevation.

Just be consistent in setting up the cheek riser and return to that height and you'll be fine. Work on your position and fundamentals to have a good view at max zoom.
 
Awesome input. Thanks guys.
I’d like to be able to zero at 100 due to the range by me only has 300 max. Have to drive a bit for longer. Looking at various scope mounts and options for rails.
 
With the Razor HD 5X20 you will a lot of travel in the turrets. I would look at The ERA-TAC adjustable mount. I use them on both my 375CT and 338 LM. The mount will adjust from 0 to 70 moa which will allow you to keep as much of the turret range as possible when you zero the scope. The 300PRC is capable out to 2500 yards or more on a good day with low wind.
You can find them at Eurooptics.
 
Update sorry on the ERA-TAC forgot they don't do 35mm. You can get the Ivey Shooting mount the has either 60 mils or 200 MOA of adjustment. They are $945 so not cheap. I used one for about a year and i worked flawlessly but the downside is it changes your head position as you dial in elevation. I changed and went with a Nightforce Prism that has 28.9 mils. Hope this helps.
 
Hey guys. Recently retired deputy in NorCal. I have a Bergara B14 HMR 300 PRC coming my way. I have a Razor 5-20x50 to put on it. I’ve been perusing these forums and gathering info. A couple of questions:
I want to shoot 1000 and eventually a mile with this gun. Do I need more than a 20 MOA long action base? I’m open to rings or a mount.
Second question and this might sound dumb as hell; if I adjust the stock comb riser, then doesn’t that screw up my zero and dope? The riser has to be lowered to remove the bolt from the rifle.

Thanks so much!
I have a few of those Gen 1 Razors. They're a nice entry level ELR scope at the cop price. They also weigh as much as a loaded Glock. That Bergara lists 6-48 screws for the scope base. On R700 pattern rifles, even with 8-40 screws I put a 3/16" pin between the rear screws to take the recoil load. Seekins makes a 30 moa base that has a recoil shoulder built into it. Bedding the scope base will help the recoil shoulder work. It's a good idea anyway. A good brake, and you'll want one, makes life easier for you but greatly compounds the problem for the scope base.

I've used Murphy Precision mounts up to 60 moa with that scope. Burris makes rings and a one piece base that use inserts to give up to 40 moa in 5 moa increments. I have my Razors in those but you'll need to dig to find the 35mm versions.

I shot a few of those NorCal ELR matches last year with a 300 PRC RPR using the factory barrel. I have better guns for that but wanted to test the idea of an entry level setup. The gun was competent but not particularly competitive. If you can load decent ammo, you can definitely teach yourself all the things you'll need to know to move up. If you can't load decent ammo, you'll need to figure that out first because a better gun won't help until you do. Decent ammo looks like less than 30 fps extreme spread for 10 shots every time, 1 moa or better for 5 shots every time, using 230 ATips. If you go with HPBT bullets, you'll need to learn to sort bullets. Just skip that to start with. I've had good results with sorted Hornady brass. You'll need to color between the lines on pressure with it though. ADG has been the most impressive, Lapua the least. My come up at that range is 21 mils for the first target at 2050 yards.

If you start with the 1k practices at Sac, the ammo and base recommendations don't really change. You won't need to adjust every bit of travel into the turret for 1K.

If you've adjusted the parallax out of the scope for the current target and there isn't a bunch of vignetting, head position won't affect the POI. I mark the comb posts or put a ring of tape on them to get them back into position if the comb needs to be removed for cleaning. Position the scope so that you're at the back of the eye box and the gun recoils through it rather than out of it at the first movement.

With Hornady bullets, I've had great luck with the Hornady ballistic ap.
 
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That was an awesome and detailed reply SID. Thanks! Albeit for me a lot of it was Greek... I have a ton of experience tactically from K-9 to SWAT. However I was an entry guy! Sooo, the learning curve here is high. Thanks for those tips and ill research them for sure. I have a few hundred rounds of factory Hornady to start with from 212 to 225 gr. I will keep the brass of course and have started researching what reloading will require. Thanks everyone on here for the replies. Good group!
 
If you're going to a mile or maybe just 2,000 yards, look at ARC M-Brace mount or a Spuhr mount. After a quick search it looks like ARC MBRACE gets you 9 MIL and Spuhr gets you 6MIL, so there are fewer options for the 35mm tube.
You can always add cant with a base to get you closer to 18 MIL elevation combined mount + base.

60 MOA total will allow you to dial almost the entire 36 mil on your elevation turret and that will get you well past a mile, maybe even past 2500 yards depending on your ballistics.




Enjoy your newfound monetary black hole lol.


Scott
 
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I have a few of those Gen 1 Razors. They're a nice entry level ELR scope at the cop price. They also weigh as much as a loaded Glock. That Bergara lists 6-48 screws for the scope base. On R700 pattern rifles, even with 8-40 screws I put a 3/16" pin between the rear screws to take the recoil load. Seekins makes a 30 moa base that has a recoil shoulder built into it. Bedding the scope base will help the recoil shoulder work. It's a good idea anyway. A good brake, and you'll want one, makes life easier for you but greatly compounds the problem for the scope base.

I've used Murphy Precision mounts up to 60 moa with that scope. Burris makes rings and a one piece base that use inserts to give up to 40 moa in 5 moa increments. I have my Razors in those but you'll need to dig to find the 35mm versions.

I shot a few of those NorCal ELR matches last year with a 300 PRC RPR using the factory barrel. I have better guns for that but wanted to test the idea of an entry level setup. The gun was competent but not particularly competitive. If you can load decent ammo, you can definitely teach yourself all the things you'll need to know to move up. If you can't load decent ammo, you'll need to figure that out first because a better gun won't help until you do. Decent ammo looks like less than 30 fps extreme spread for 10 shots every time, 1 moa or better for 5 shots every time, using 230 ATips. If you go with HPBT bullets, you'll need to learn to sort bullets. Just skip that to start with. I've had good results with sorted Hornady brass. You'll need to color between the lines on pressure with it though. ADG has been the most impressive, Lapua the least. My come up at that range is 21 mils for the first target at 2050 yards.

If you start with the 1k practices at Sac, the ammo and base recommendations don't really change. You won't need to adjust every bit of travel into the turret for 1K.

If you've adjusted the parallax out of the scope for the current target and there isn't a bunch of vignetting, head position won't affect the POI. I mark the comb posts or put a ring of tape on them to get them back into position if the comb needs to be removed for cleaning. Position the scope so that you're at the back of the eye box and the gun recoils through it rather than out of it at the first movement.

With Hornady bullets, I've had great luck with the Hornady ballistic ap.