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The AR15 Picture Thread

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No BS.
 
Wow, you guys have some very nice AR's!! I recently started building some and sold my first few. Currently I have a couple of .223 Wylde. One is a 24" and a 16". Then 2 300BO's. I'd like to build a AR10 in 308 18" and a 9mm carbine in 12" before long.
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Aero Precision Enhanced upper & lower, buffer tube and gas tube
All Geissele controls with Super 42 Braid buffer spring & H2 buffer SSA-E trigger
Geissele Airborne Charging Handle in DDC
BCM Handguard and BCG
Criterion 14.5” barrel SLR gas block
Area 419 Linear comp
Magpul furniture
Scalarworks Leap08 scope mount
Vortex Strike Eagle 1x6 Opmod from Optics Planet
 
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24” ballistic advantage. I dont think it is necessarily slow, that was a fairly mild load. I expect to be more around 2600fps, i ran some hornady 108 match ammo at 2640fps.
 
24” ballistic advantage. I dont think it is necessarily slow, that was a fairly mild load. I expect to be more around 2600fps, i ran some hornady 108 match ammo at 2640fps.

What distance is that at? 100yds?
 
Hope you get it worked out, been thinking about building one of these myself.
 
16” midlength gas SOLGW barrel, bcg, and NOX. Midwest Combat MLOK rail, geissele SSA-E and ACH, PA 1-6 ACSS Raptor. Waiting for a Sandman K. Assembled on stripped Aero upper and lower.
 

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@harleyman1974 wow, eye-popping awesome paintjob. regarding your brake, I think usually, the big ports face sideways, and the small round holes face upwards to mitigate muzzle rise. Kinda interesting that the small round holes are both sides, though, cancel each other out. But of course, how you orient it, it's totally user preference, it's your gun, certainly very individualized, to say the least.
 
@harleyman1974 wow, eye-popping awesome paintjob. regarding your brake, I think usually, the big ports face sideways, and the small round holes face upwards to mitigate muzzle rise. Kinda interesting that the small round holes are both sides, though, cancel each other out. But of course, how you orient it, it's totally user preference, it's your gun, certainly very individualized, to say the least.
Thanks. There was a washer included in the package. I didn't know what it was for. Makes sense to change the orientation. I'll fix that.
 
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Very nice! Well done! You didn't cerakote the tube? Just curious if it's possible.

The buffer tube or suppressor?

The buffer tube is cerakoted, suppressor isn’t. I’m sure you could do the suppressor, but they get so insanely hot that I doubt it would last long.
 
The buffer tube or suppressor?

The buffer tube is cerakoted, suppressor isn’t. I’m sure you could do the suppressor, but they get so insanely hot that I doubt it would last long.
That's what I was thinking too. The suppressor, Looks awesome. Nicely done.
 
Latest put together. Need to find a better fitting bolt catch, the Geissele just doesn't look right.
  • CMT Billet Upper and Lower
  • Criterion Core 16"
  • Reptilia Corp CQG Grip, Magpul MOE SL-M Stock, Radian CH and Selector, FCD LDFA, V7 dust cover
  • Holosun HE515GM-GR, MBUS Pros
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Had enough time yesterday evening to put together this new upper for a lower I had sitting around… It’s an Aero Precision M4E1 Enhanced upper, with a 10” 1:7 .300 BLK barrel, and a 9” handguard. My old EOTech 512 on top, a Dead Air KeyMo brake, and one of my Sandman-S cans.

The lower, is a PSA (I know, I know…But they are WAY better than they used to be) with an ERGO grip, SB brace, Noveske H2 buffer, KNS pins, and currently a PSA EPT trigger…Soon to be swapped-out with a Rise 434.

I have been very impressed with how well that lower fits all my uppers…There is virtually zero slop or play. It fits VERY snug. 👍🏼

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Had enough time yesterday evening to put together this new upper for a lower I had sitting around… It’s an Aero Precision M4E1 Enhanced upper, with a 10” 1:7 .300 BLK barrel, and a 9” handguard. My old EOTech 512 on top, a Dead Air KeyMo brake, and one of my Sandman-S cans.

The lower, is a PSA (I know, I know…But they are WAY better than they used to be) with an ERGO grip, SB brace, Noveske H2 buffer, KNS pins, and currently a PSA EPT trigger…Soon to be swapped-out with a Rise 434.

...
on your KNS pins, I think you have the hammer pin, and the trigger pin reversed. The hammer pin has the mid circumferential groove, to accommodate the typical hammer internal J-spring. The trigger pin doesn't have that groove, but the trigger pin takes those miniature Torx screws. so on AR's, usually the KNS pin with the Torx screws is rear-ward, and the KNS pin with the external locating flats is forward.

you'll also see faux KNS pins reversed on AirSoft AR's.

some cassette triggers don't have a hammer J-spring, which then makes it moot. The J-spring keeps the hammer centered on the hammer pin. FWIW.

nice PDW, BTW.
 
on your KNS pins, I think you have the hammer pin, and the trigger pin reversed. The hammer pin has the mid circumferential groove, to accommodate the typical hammer internal J-spring. The trigger pin doesn't have that groove, but the trigger pin takes those miniature Torx screws. so on AR's, usually the KNS pin with the Torx screws is rear-ward, and the KNS pin with the external locating flats is forward.

you'll also see faux KNS pins reversed on AirSoft AR's.

some cassette triggers don't have a hammer J-spring, which then makes it moot. The J-spring keeps the hammer centered on the hammer pin. FWIW.

nice PDW, BTW.
Yeah... I've been building and messing with AR's for over 20 years...I'm pretty sure I know how the FCG works, and how drop-in triggers don't have a J-spring or hammer spring with tension to hold the pins in place. 👍🏼

Also, you do realize there is no right or wrong way to install those, correct? They're 100% reversible. As long as they stay tight, that's all that matters. And I have absolutely zero clue about anything airsoft. My opinion is... If you're an adult, go buy a real gun like a grown-up.

That being said, I am well aware of how most people install them...I reversed them on purpose. I run them like that on all my AR's, as there's a method to my madness. This way when you run your finger down the side of the receiver to drop the mag, it's flat, and you're not overlapping a bump (screw head) sticking out of the side of the receiver, to get to the release button.