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Gunsmithing S&W 29 has some pitting/defect in one chamber, causing difficult ejecting and leaving brass behind from fired cases

BuLLet

BuLLet

I need a new gun!
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Minuteman
Apr 6, 2004
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Bought a used classic S&W 29 last year and took it to the range today to test fire. One of the chambers had a very sticky case causing inability to eject. Brass had some ugly mark on it. After inspecting all the chambers one had some leftover brass stuck in it. Corresponding to the marks on the fired brass. Shot two sets of six, so two pieces of brass with the same look. I'll discard these.

I was wondering if I could just polish out that one spot in that chamber and call it a day.

Not sure if S&W would fix this for me, maybe even replace the cylinder under their (lifetime) warranty. This is a non locking older model. I'd hate to have a new cylinder installed if the polishing would cure it.

Thoughts?
 
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Can you post pictures of the brass and the chamber causing issues?
 
@Bigfatcock

20221103_211745.jpg

20221103_211943.jpg
 
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I have seen that before. Mainly on bolt rifles. The corrosion is on the down gravity side. It was probably condensation. No matter what caused it. I digress. Polishing is the way to go. A little at a time. It may be more brass than corrosion. A little at a time.
 
BuLLet said:
Bought a used classic S&W 29 last year and took it to the range today to test fire. One of the chambers had a very sticky case causing inability to eject. Brass had some ugly mark on it. After inspecting all the chambers one had some leftover brass stuck in it. Corresponding to the marks on the fired brass. Shot two sets of six, so two pieces of brass with the same look. I'll discard these.

I was wondering if I could just polish out that one spot in that chamber and call it a day.

Not sure if S&W would fix this for me, maybe even replace the cylinder under their (lifetime) warranty. This is a non locking older model. I'd hate to have a new cylinder installed if the polishing would cure it.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
More then likely likely it has not been cleaned in a long time. Get some hopes 9 and a brush or big45. The big45 won’t remove bluing.
www.big45metalcleaner.com

Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner | Remove Rust from Gun Bluing and Clean Dirty Gun Bores Easy!

A Must for Every Gun Dealer, Gunsmith, Shooter & Collector! Since 1967 - Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner is a must for every Gun Owner. Scientifically Alloyed - It is one of the best improvements in Gun Cleaning of the Century. &quotIt is one of the...
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Wrap an old bore brush in some 0000 steel wool and soak it in oil. Chuck it in a drill and stuff it in the chamber and run it a bit, checking periodically.

Should fix your issue. Make sure to clean all the chambers well afterwards.
 
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I do have a dremel, could hit the spot with that first, then move on to the steel wool to clean up the chamber overall. Obviously I do not want to modify dimensions much.
 
BuLLet said:
I do have a dremel, could hit the spot with that first, then move on to the steel wool to clean up the chamber overall. Obviously I do not want to modify dimensions much.
Click to expand...
Hell no!

That is NOT the same thing.

Goodness, do not do this. You will ruin your cylinder without a doubt.

0000 Steel wool and a bore brush is what you need and will work. The steel wool and oil will not touch the gun steel or the bluing but will card the rust off and take care of your issue based on what I am seeing in your pics.

Please listen to my advice and go spend 5 dollars on the correct supplies to do it.

If you don't have a drill, borrow one.
 
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MK20 said:
Hell no!

That is NOT the same thing.

Goodness, do not do this. You will ruin your cylinder without a doubt.

0000 Steel wool and a bore brush is what you need and will work. The steel wool and oil will not touch the gun steel or the bluing but will card the rust off and take care of your issue based on what I am seeing in your pics.

Please listen to my advice and go spend 5 dollars on the correct supplies to do it.

If you don't have a drill, borrow one.
Click to expand...


To steal you away for a second, I have a 500 S&W, and after firing some hardcasts the brass wants to stick in the chambers a bit. I have no pitting or anything in my chambers, they are clean, nonetheless the brass gets harder to eject and the new rounds don't slide all the way in, must be pushed the last little bit.

Would your trick there help me?
Should a guy do it with some polishing compound?
I also have 200,000 grit diamond paste for an ultra fine polish?

I'm order some bore brushes, steel wool and some junk oil now just in case, but let me know and I'll order whatever else you recommend.
 
Just chatted with MK20, thanks for the advice.

Just to be clear about the dremel, I was thinking about a tear shaped felt pad with polishing compound on it. Not any sort of stone. :)

I'll give the steel wool a whirl, see what it does to that pit. If ejection is restored and brass isn't as badly marked, or leftover in that chamber I'll call it a success :)

If not I'll probably seek out a pistol smith to properly hone it for me.


MK20 said:
I am sending you a PM with my contact info as I can help you fix this easily.
Click to expand...
 
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calling4life said:
To steal you away for a second, I have a 500 S&W, and after firing some hardcasts the brass wants to stick in the chambers a bit. I have no pitting or anything in my chambers, they are clean, nonetheless the brass gets harder to eject and the new rounds don't slide all the way in, must be pushed the last little bit.

Would your trick there help me?
Should a guy do it with some polishing compound?
I also have 200,000 grit diamond paste for an ultra fine polish?

I'm order some bore brushes, steel wool and some junk oil now just in case, but let me know and I'll order whatever else you recommend.
Click to expand...
I’d just clean the possible lube residue out with a swab.
 
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