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Gunsmithing Wood taps...

LRI

Lance Criminal
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Mar 14, 2010
    6,305
    7,351
    52
    Sturgis, S. Dakota
    www.longriflesinc.com
    Putting a "sorta" period correct rifle together for a gent. The stock work was something he handled the bulk of. We just got the metal back from parkerizing and while putting it together Kalyb noticed that the wood around the rear swivel was starting to lift along the grain due to the thread fit.
    Chasing the hole with a drill would of resulted in disaster because of how a drill removes material. It surely would have exploded the stock around the hole. What we needed was a tap, but finding a "wood tap" isn't exactly something your going to source from the local hardware store.
    So, we make one...
    Grab a stick of 4340 and thread it on a .100" pitch. Start your tool +.200" in front of the part, so you have room to bump the work offset by -.01" in Z after each thread cycle. Doing so maintains the start position of the thread but changes the engagement point of the tool with the material. As a result, you match the pitch of the screw and avoid changing the insert to some weirdo acme/buttress-looking thing that costs $150+ for a box of inserts that you'll use maybe once every ten years.
    Finish it by loading in the 4th axis and wizz an endmill down its length just above the centerline, so the leading edge cuts material instead of merely pushing it like the screw on the swivel was trying to do.
    Bueno! I wicked a little thin CA into the hole to repair where the fibers were trying to lift and now were all set. Finish with a few swipes of 320grit to knock the edges back down.

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    I can appreciate the care/work involved with wood stocks. I have two hand carved stocks. Absolute gems. Nicely done!


    2015 SHC trophy rifle we did here. Special Select American Black Walnut. We made just about everything on that stock here from scratch. Fun stuff.

    The "Liberace" stock is a stick of TigerMertyl from a few years ago. One wild piece.
     

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    Good to see you are into that level of detail.

    That is some sweet looking parkerizing.

    Only one I know does it that good is GunBlack 😉
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Series 70 Colt
    Looks like the dude that is getting that rifle had the Wichita swivels sent out to a friend and had the swivel base milled flat removing the lug so it would be flush with the wood
     
    Putting a "sorta" period correct rifle together for a gent. The stock work was something he handled the bulk of. We just got the metal back from parkerizing and while putting it together Kalyb noticed that the wood around the rear swivel was starting to lift along the grain due to the thread fit.
    Chasing the hole with a drill would of resulted in disaster because of how a drill removes material. It surely would have exploded the stock around the hole. What we needed was a tap, but finding a "wood tap" isn't exactly something your going to source from the local hardware store.
    So, we make one...
    Grab a stick of 4340 and thread it on a .100" pitch. Start your tool +.200" in front of the part, so you have room to bump the work offset by -.01" in Z after each thread cycle. Doing so maintains the start position of the thread but changes the engagement point of the tool with the material. As a result, you match the pitch of the screw and avoid changing the insert to some weirdo acme/buttress-looking thing that costs $150+ for a box of inserts that you'll use maybe once every ten years.
    Finish it by loading in the 4th axis and wizz an endmill down its length just above the centerline, so the leading edge cuts material instead of merely pushing it like the screw on the swivel was trying to do.
    Bueno! I wicked a little thin CA into the hole to repair where the fibers were trying to lift and now were all set. Finish with a few swipes of 320grit to knock the edges back down.

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    You went right were I was thinking as I was reading the start of the post - make one. Outstanding job sir. I didn’t see it posted, but did the major of the threads of the screw bite into the wood some or did using the tap to chase the threads already there cut it completely with major/minor relief like a standard thread in metal?

    That’s some commitment to quality right there. Very impressive.
     
    Looks like the dude that is getting that rifle had the Wichita swivels sent out to a friend and had the swivel base milled flat removing the lug so it would be flush with the wood
    Looks kind of odd with the flat sitting on the curved portion of the stock.
     
    Looks kind of odd with the flat sitting on the curved portion of the stock.

    It's how the old 541 swivels on the M40 were made.

    PWS apparently did similar to Wichitas on M40A1.

    A stud swivel would be better aesthetically but I want nostalgia parts.
     
    Looks kind of odd with the flat sitting on the curved portion of the stock.
    I’m not sure there is another option with that swivel. It appears that the screw is integral to it; if that’s the case then any curve would scratch and further stress the threads in the wood as you tighten it to position it correctly. And you cant put a flat on the wood without the same issue unless you made an elongated flat which would be a “not good option” either without some serious blending by an artist in woodworking.
     
    I’m not sure there is another option with that swivel. It appears that the screw is integral to it; if that’s the case then any curve would scratch and further stress the threads in the wood as you tighten it to position it correctly. And you cant put a flat on the wood without the same issue unless you made an elongated flat which would be a “not good option” either without some serious blending by an artist in woodworking.
    I get it. What I’m saying is with the shoulder milled off, and it sitting flat on the wood, it looks odd. Will probably gouge the stock if it moves too.
     
    All valid concerns.

    They work on my other M40 stocks.

    Ordered up some rotten stone and pure citrus oil for cutting my first coats of tung oil.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: lash
    You went right were I was thinking as I was reading the start of the post - make one. Outstanding job sir. I didn’t see it posted, but did the major of the threads of the screw bite into the wood some or did using the tap to chase the threads already there cut it completely with major/minor relief like a standard thread in metal?

    That’s some commitment to quality right there. Very impressive.


    What is going on here is the hole got drilled at some point, and the screw in sling swivel was attached. The pressure exerted by the wood against the threaded portion created a spot right at the start of the hole where the grain attempted to split as its all in the shear plane due to the grain direction. The idea with the tap was to cut threads normally formed by the screw as it climbs its way down the hole.

    I'm doing a shit job of trying to explain this. The attempt here was to cut threads at the start of the hole so that the swivel doesn't displace and split a sliver of the stock away. It's about the same as using a form tap vs. a cut tap in conventional applications. If your hole CS isn't big enough, you end up with a ring of displaced metal around the hole that rises above the surface. More or less, the wood is attempting to do the same thing, but because of the grain direction/structure, it's far more likely to shear a sliver off vs. just being pushed out of the way.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Modoc
    What is going on here is the hole got drilled at some point, and the screw in sling swivel was attached. The pressure exerted by the wood against the threaded portion created a spot right at the start of the hole where the grain attempted to split as its all in the shear plane due to the grain direction. The idea with the tap was to cut threads normally formed by the screw as it climbs its way down the hole.

    I'm doing a shit job of trying to explain this. The attempt here was to cut threads at the start of the hole so that the swivel doesn't displace and split a sliver of the stock away. It's about the same as using a form tap vs. a cut tap in conventional applications. If your hole CS isn't big enough, you end up with a ring of displaced metal around the hole that rises above the surface. More or less, the wood is attempting to do the same thing, but because of the grain direction/structure, it's far more likely to shear a sliver off vs. just being pushed out of the way.
    Makes perfect sense.
     
    You don't know how long I've watched the thread you posted the stock in THIS ONE waiting for these! You are an amazing craftsman!

    You have inspired me to no end! Ever since I first saw the pics, I have been looking for a badass piece of wood. I have a Manners CF T5A that I want to have duplicated and then I'll finish. I hope to be comparable and will take pics and post here.
     
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